1. Disconnect any power to the speaker and wait a few minutes for the capacitors to fully discharge.
    • Disconnect any power to the speaker and wait a few minutes for the capacitors to fully discharge.

    • Flip the speaker upside down.

    • There may be a rubber foot covering the bottom screws (not included in picture). Remove this by pulling up from one of the corners using a spudger.

  2. Remove eight 10mm Phillips #2 screws Remove the bottom panel by pulling upwards.
    • Remove eight 10mm Phillips #2 screws

    • Remove the bottom panel by pulling upwards.

  3. Flip the device so that the grille is facing up. Locate the line on the right side of the speaker where the grill and the plastic meet, and place your plastic opening tool in the gap. Run the spudger along the gap, loosening the grille from the plastic. Repeat this process on the left side as well.
    • Flip the device so that the grille is facing up.

    • Locate the line on the right side of the speaker where the grill and the plastic meet, and place your plastic opening tool in the gap.

    • Run the spudger along the gap, loosening the grille from the plastic. Repeat this process on the left side as well.

    • Gently pull up on the grille, removing it from the front panel.

    might be worth mentioning there are two strips of industrial velcro running along near the top and bottom that simply have to be pulled apart

    Adam Tibbalds - Reply

  4. Remove the six 8mm Phillips #2 screws.
    • Remove the six 8mm Phillips #2 screws.

    • Remove the two 10mm Phillips #2 screws.

    In my unit the top two screws marked in red had a rubber plug in the hole as well. I had to remove them by sticking a knife in and carefully pulling them out.

    Adam Tibbalds - Reply

    I had the same issue but no problem getting them out.

    clarkal2000 - Reply

  5. Locate the line on the right side where the front panel and back panel meet. Place a plastic opening tool in the gap, and run it along the gap. Repeat this on the left side. Use the opening tool to lift the front plate. If a plastic tool is not providing enough leverage, use a metal opening tool.
    • Locate the line on the right side where the front panel and back panel meet. Place a plastic opening tool in the gap, and run it along the gap. Repeat this on the left side.

    • Use the opening tool to lift the front plate. If a plastic tool is not providing enough leverage, use a metal opening tool.

    • Gently pull up on the face plate to ensure it has been detached from the enclosure.

    • When pulling on the face plate be cautious because it is still connected by wires on the back of the plate.

  6. Lift up the front panel, forming a 90 degree angle with the back panel. Locate the locate ten pin connector shown. This is the wire that connects the front panel to back panel. Press down on the small tab located on the connector. With the tab firmly pressed down, pull the connector out from its socket. The faceplate assembly is now fully detached from the rest of the speaker.
    • Lift up the front panel, forming a 90 degree angle with the back panel. Locate the locate ten pin connector shown. This is the wire that connects the front panel to back panel.

    • Press down on the small tab located on the connector. With the tab firmly pressed down, pull the connector out from its socket.

    • The faceplate assembly is now fully detached from the rest of the speaker.

    my unit didn’t have the tab in the middle of the connector. It simply had to be prised apart (I used a plastic spudger to separate the two parts of the connector) and then reconnected carefully (I used the plastic spudger again between the pcb and the case to support the pcb as it was flexing)

    Adam Tibbalds - Reply

  7. Free shipping on all orders over $100 or containing a Pro Tech Toolkit!

    Browse Our Store
  8. Remove the ten pin connector. Remove the ten pin connector. Remove the ten pin connector.
    • Remove the ten pin connector.

  9. Flip the device over on its front side.
    • Flip the device over on its front side.

  10. Remove six 5mm Phillips #0 screws.
    • Remove six 5mm Phillips #0 screws.

    • Remove two 7mm Phillips #2 screws.

  11. Flip the device on its back.
    • Flip the device on its back.

  12. Remove the grey and red antenna connectors by lifting them away from the board. Pull cords away from the board. Pull cords away from the board.
    • Remove the grey and red antenna connectors by lifting them away from the board.

    • Pull cords away from the board.

    Hi! Great guide. These three cords have been ripped away on my second-hand-unit. Where do they connect?

    Thanks again!

    Martin Lindström - Reply

    Instead of these following steps, I unsrewed the 4 nuts, lifted the controlboard up, and kept the antennas connected, then I could remove the Powerboard with antenna connections intact…

    Flera Brev - Reply

  13. Remove the yellow antenna connector by lifting it away from the board. Pull cord away from the board.
    • Remove the yellow antenna connector by lifting it away from the board.

    • Pull cord away from the board.

  14. Remove circuit board by lifting it straight away from the rear plate. Remove circuit board by lifting it straight away from the rear plate. Remove circuit board by lifting it straight away from the rear plate.
    • Remove circuit board by lifting it straight away from the rear plate.

    One step is missing…you also have to disconnect the cable to the top circuit board with the volume buttons and led…

    Flera Brev - Reply

  15. Lay the two connected boards so that the power board is facing upwards.
    • Lay the two connected boards so that the power board is facing upwards.

  16. Unscrew four Phillips #2 bolts. These bolts will not come out, but will pull out of the nuts on the other side of the board.
    • Unscrew four Phillips #2 bolts.

    • These bolts will not come out, but will pull out of the nuts on the other side of the board.

  17. Flip boards so audio board is facing upwards, as is shown in picture.
    • Flip boards so audio board is facing upwards, as is shown in picture.

  18. Lift control board up and away from power supply board. Lift control board up and away from power supply board. Lift control board up and away from power supply board.
    • Lift control board up and away from power supply board.

  19. The larger of the two boards is the power supply board.
    • The larger of the two boards is the power supply board.

    mine was destroyed by a spike in line voltage 380V instead of normal 240V. Have you any idea which part/fuse could I try to replace? I suspect it is only a power supply board problem

    suma - Reply

    The small brownish round part left behind and very close to the (black) powerplug connector is a 3.15A 250V PCB mount fuse.

    Mine was blown.

    Replaced it with a new one (eBay 6 of them for just $2) and my Sonos works again!

    Eric - Reply

    Told a friend I repaired my Play5 when I said he had one which didn’t do anything anymore fo quite a while.

    Sure enough the PCB mounted fuse was dead.

    Checked the bridge rectifier first before replacing the fuse and it turned out that 1 of the diodes was conducting in both directions..

    Told him there was chance that the circuitry behind it was killed by the AC voltage.

    After removing the bridge rectifier I put 30V DC on the circuit with a power supply on which I can limit the current.

    Hardly any current so I assumed that at least the circuitry behind the bridge rectifier did not cause a short circuit.

    Eric - Reply

    To replace the bridge rectifier I first had to remove the 100uF 400V capacitor.

    As they put a kind of silicone on the power supply part of the PCB this wasn’t easy…

    During removal of the bridge rectifier I slightly damaged the connection between the + side of the bridge rectifier and the PCB.

    I ended up by connecting the + side of the bridge rectifier with the + side of the other capacitor (next to J27706 on the backside of the board).

    Replaced the fuse, connected the board to the mains and the fuse did not blow.

    Reassembled the Play5 et voila, it works again!

    I do not understand why they don’t use a separate power supply board!

    Eric - Reply

    Hi! Do you have the model of the rectifier diod and the fuse you ordered? I have the same problem!

    Flera Brev -

    OK, I see the fuse, but what is and where is the “bridge rectifier?” I am supposing that it should conduct in only one direction, and that it has to be off the board to test. Is any of this correct?

    Paul - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

8 other people completed this guide.

Warren Willingham

Member since: 02/20/2017

655 Reputation

3 Guides authored

Team

USF Tampa, Team S3-G6, Sullivan Spring 2017 Member of USF Tampa, Team S3-G6, Sullivan Spring 2017

USFT-SULLIVAN-S17S3G6

4 Members

8 Guides authored

3 Comments

Great guide but where can you get replacement boards from, if at all?

Mark Molloy - Reply

Yes good question, where to get a replacement board SONOS P/N: 170-00236?

Model: JB Power Board

B. Buil - Reply

Does anyone know the specs on the five electrolytic capacitors that are arranged vertically (on the left side of the last image above)? I have a couple failing on one board, and I think that’s what is causing the amp to ‘click’ once it warms up.

T C - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 9

Past 7 Days: 57

Past 30 Days: 268

All Time: 5,167