Danger
Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.
Danger

Introduction

If the troubleshooting guide for the power port hasn't fixed your issue, this guide for replacing the internal power supply would be suitable to fix the problem.

When working with electronics, it's important to choose a tool that's ESD-safe to avoid accidental damage to the device. The metal spudgerd is great when you need serious prying power, but the regular black nylon spudger or a plastic opening tool should be used whenever possible.

Start by using a spudger or plastic opening tool  to  remove the bottom cover. When working with electronics, it's important to choose a tool that's ESD-safe to avoid accidental damage to the device. The regular black nylon spudger or a plastic opening tool should be used whenever possible. Once enough of the glue is removed, peel the cover off by hand,
  • Start by using a spudger or plastic opening tool to remove the bottom cover.

  • When working with electronics, it's important to choose a tool that's ESD-safe to avoid accidental damage to the device. The regular black nylon spudger or a plastic opening tool should be used whenever possible.

  • Once enough of the glue is removed, peel the cover off by hand,

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Remove the four 7.5mm length Philips head screws under the rubber cover. Remove the four 7.5mm length Philips head screws under the rubber cover. Remove the four 7.5mm length Philips head screws under the rubber cover.
  • Remove the four 7.5mm length Philips head screws under the rubber cover.

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Use a nylon spudger to unsnap the bottom from the sides. Pry until the remaining three points are unsnapped. Once unsnapped, lift the cover.
  • Use a nylon spudger to unsnap the bottom from the sides.

  • Pry until the remaining three points are unsnapped.

  • Once unsnapped, lift the cover.

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Remove the connection for the front buttons to fully remove the cover. Remove the connection for the front buttons to fully remove the cover.
  • Remove the connection for the front buttons to fully remove the cover.

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Use a plastic opening tool or spudger to remove the adhesive covering the the WIFI connectors. Gently pull the wires at the connection point to disconnect them from the motherboard.
  • Use a plastic opening tool or spudger to remove the adhesive covering the the WIFI connectors.

  • Gently pull the wires at the connection point to disconnect them from the motherboard.

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Black Friday
Broken doesn't stand a chance.
Remove the two pieces of glue holding the WIFI card in place. Remove the two pieces of glue holding the WIFI card in place.
  • Remove the two pieces of glue holding the WIFI card in place.

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Scrape the glued pad underneath the WIFI card to seperate the card from the board. Push apart the two clips holding the WIFI card in the connection. Pull the WIFI card out of the connection.
  • Scrape the glued pad underneath the WIFI card to seperate the card from the board.

  • Push apart the two clips holding the WIFI card in the connection.

  • Pull the WIFI card out of the connection.

  • When putting the new WIFI card in, put the card in the connector first, then push downward until it clicks.

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Remove the 7mm length Phillips screw holding the board in place.
  • Remove the 7mm length Phillips screw holding the board in place.

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Flip the board over to access the Molex Cable. Flip the board over to access the Molex Cable.
  • Flip the board over to access the Molex Cable.

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Disconnect the Molex Cable from the top motherboard.
  • Disconnect the Molex Cable from the top motherboard.

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Remove foam protective insulator from the bottom board. Remove foam protective insulator from the bottom board.
  • Remove foam protective insulator from the bottom board.

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Picture shows the side of the device. Remove the 7mm length Phillips screw from the power supply motherboard.
  • Picture shows the side of the device.

  • Remove the 7mm length Phillips screw from the power supply motherboard.

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Remove the adhesive backed rear label by using a spudger. Remove the two 8mm length screws as shown. Remove the two 8mm length screws as shown.
  • Remove the adhesive backed rear label by using a spudger.

  • Remove the two 8mm length screws as shown.

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Pull the power supply out of the back of the device. Pull the power supply out of the back of the device.
  • Pull the power supply out of the back of the device.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Clark Snyder

Member since: 01/21/2016

413 Reputation

4 Guides authored

Team

IUPUI, Team 3-2, Baechle Spring 2016 Member of IUPUI, Team 3-2, Baechle Spring 2016

IUPUI-BAECHLE-S16S3G2

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4 Guides authored

13 Comments

And where do you find a spare power supply ?

meh - Reply

You'd probably just replace the 1800µƒ cap, which you can do without removing the board. Leave the wireless card attached to the top board when you carefully lift it out of the way. 99 times out of 100 if a PSU goes down it's one or more capacitors.

Steve Long - Reply

My Sonos was fried by a thunderstrike recently.

More precisely: 3 parts on the power supply PCB: the fuse, that 1800 uF cap mentioned above and some other part that I'm having a hard time to identify:

It's located pretty close to the fuse on the PCB, there labeled whith "TH1" and according to the symbol it's some kind of varistor or thermistor. With the "TH1" label I'm inclined to bet my money on thermistor, some NTC probably.

From what little is left of its housing (green, round with a diameter of about 8mm) its caption once read "SCK 102"... or something similar. But that's all I could find out.

Could anybody tell me more about this part and its dimensions?

When feeding the 3.3V and 14.V that the power supply PCB normaly provides from some lab power supply to the mainboard of the Sonos it works fine. So wether I'll be able t resurect my Sonos depends on identifying and replacing this one little bugger...

Thanks a lot

Ber

Tomarang - Reply

In my case, the 2A fuse and the MB8S Bridge rectifier were broken. Also my 14V output delivers 17.5V. The zener was not broken so I guess there are different versions.

Dirk de Vries - Reply

Can you lick up +5 volts from power supply black/red?

Robert Bruce - Reply

Hi guys! My connect stoped working so I took it apart and the 1800uF cap was leaky and screwed! So I replaced it.... now all I'm getting is the white LED flashing!! Before a replaced the cap I got nothing at all! Any ideas??

Matt - Reply

Hi guys, hope someone can help - I'm trying to fix a failed Connect but someone already tampered with it (and abandoned the notion). Since the PSU board is incomplete I can't make out what needs to exist where the U3 pinout is (the chip is missing - has 8 contact points). any thoughts? or maybe photos? Thanks so much upfront!

Mike - Reply

Hy Mike B.

I can send you some pictures with my PSU that was blown due to a surge and can't fix it...there is a short...when I plug it in the fuse will blow and i couldn't find the therminator to replace it the one that Tomarang refers in his comment. So if you need pictures of it ...let me know

George -

@ Mike B , The chip is a 5M0165R - http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-p...

nhendley - Reply

Mine has the same 5M0165R chip clearly blown, missing two legs with soot on the PCB indicating a transient spike took it out! Can buy and replace chip but have to suspect other components might be damaged. Sure would love to know where to buy a replacement Powersupply PCB!

sailingmagnus -

@ Matt - sound like you just need to reset the connect. Plug it in with mute and volume up button pressed

nhendley - Reply

I abandoned the connect for a bit as I was having no joy but really want to get it working and sonos won't touch it now as I've already started, originally I was getting a white light but now no light at all, where is this internal fuse I'm hearing about.... and how can I test to see if the power supply is screwed??

Thank you

Matt -

I need to replace the cap as well. What voltage should it be? Thank you!

Scott Hechinger - Reply

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