The DLP chip in your Samsung television is a very fine piece of technology. Texas Instruments describes it as such:

"A DLP chip's micromirrors tilt either toward the light source in a DLP projection system (ON) or away from it (OFF). This creates a light or dark pixel on the projection surface.

The bit-streamed image code entering the semiconductor directs each mirror to switch on and off up to ten thousand times per second. When a mirror is switched on more frequently than off, it reflects a light gray pixel; a mirror that's switched off more frequently reflects a darker gray pixel.

In this way, the mirrors in a DLP projection system can reflect pixels in up to 1,024 shades of gray to convert the video or graphic signal entering the DLP chip into a highly detailed grayscale image."

When your chip begins to fail (from age or excess heat) these microscopic mirrors stick either on, or off. This can lead to spots on your TV, either white ones (for those mirrors stuck in the on position) or black ones (where the mirror is stuck off).

Usually this begins with one mirror. You'll notice a white or black pixel glaring at you while watching your favorite high-def movie. Slowly, as the chip continues to fail, the spots will spread across the TV until your movies and television are almost un-watchable.

The great thing about owning a DLP television is that many of these parts are readily replaceable. The DLP chip is one of those items. Learn how with this guide!

Note that the Samsung TV uses the same Texas Instruments chip across a number of models, and with some Mitsubishi and Toshiba DLP televisions. Make sure the chip your are buying matches the model number of your TV.

  1. Here is a prime example of a failed DLP chip. The TV has become basically impossible to use due to the overwhelming number of stuck mirrors in the DLP chip. Let's fix it!
    • Here is a prime example of a failed DLP chip. The TV has become basically impossible to use due to the overwhelming number of stuck mirrors in the DLP chip. Let's fix it!

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  2. The first step when working on your DLP is to remove the lower rear cover. Begin by removing the six black Phillips screws on the center of the back of the TV.
    • The first step when working on your DLP is to remove the lower rear cover. Begin by removing the six black Phillips screws on the center of the back of the TV.

      • There are two on the far left of the flat center of the back of the TV.

      • Then, two in the middle.

      • And finally, two on the right.

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    • You will then find two more screws on the far left of the TV, just to the left of the A/V inputs.

    • And finally there are two more black Phillips screws on the far right, past the air intake for the bulb vent.

    • With all ten screws removed the rear cover can be pulled off. Note that there is a long vent snorkel on the far right side for the bulb that will have to clear the frame of the TV.

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    • With the rear cover removed you will see the body of the "light engine" which contains the bulb, color wheel, lens, DMD board (with the DLP chip) among other components.

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    • To proceed you will need to remove the light engine. To do this, remove the two silver Phillips screws that hold the light engine rack to the frame of the TV.

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    • Next you will remove the upper two cables on the left hand side of the light engine, which plug in to the DMD board.

    • First, remove the upper silver ribbon cable. Press in on the top and bottom of cable end to release the small clips that hold it in the plug.

    • Then remove the second cable by pressing on the clip that holds the white cable end in to the plug and pulling it straight out at the same time.

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    • Next you will remove the power cable that runs to the board next to the DMD board, underneath the fan for the light bulb.

    • Remove the cable end by pressing on the white clip that holds the end in to the plug while pulling up on the cable.

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    • While not completely necessary, it can help to remove this power cable from the cable ties that hold it to the top of the TV frame. This will get it out of the way when you remove and install the light engine.

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    • Now you can pull the light engine out of the body of the TV by pulling it straight out. It rides along rails in the TV frame and should slide straight out, though you may need to lift it over a few bumps along the way.

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    • To allow for easier access to a number of components on the DMD board that need to be removed, first remove the black plastic lens shield. There are two Phillips screws at the top that hold this in place.

    • Once the screws are removed the shield can be lifted out.

    • Be careful not to touch the lens.

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    • Next, proceed by removing all of the cables that connect to the DMD board.

    • At the upper right edge there is a small ribbon cable that pulls straight up to remove, and two other cables that connect with cable ends that clip in to the small plugs. Remove these three cables carefully.

    • Next, remove the three cables on the right end of the DMD board. The two upper are fan power cables, and the lower connects to the light bulb controls.

    • Finally, remove the lower most cable that connects to the bottom left corner of the DMD board.

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    • To give more working room on the DMD board, next remove the cooling fan for the DLP chip heatsink. It's held in place by two Phillips screws.

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    • Remove the four spring-loaded screws that reside on each side of the heatsink. These screws apply pressure to the DMD board to hold it in position, under tension - once adjusted at the factory the the DMD board needs to be held in place over the long term or the picture quality will suffer.

    • See the springs that sit behind the screws in the second picture.

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    • Next use a pliers to remove the clip that holds the DLP chip heatsink in place.

    • You may find that the heatsink falls off as you remove the clip. If not, a gentle pull should remove it.

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    • With the heatsink removed you will see the thermal pad that was installed at the factory.

    • If you plan to reuse this thermal pad with the new DLP chip be sure to keep it protected while you complete this guide.

    • There is some suggestion that inadequate thermal paste leads to the premature failure of the DLP chips on these TV's, so you may also consider removing the factory thermal pad and putting a better thermal paste like Arctic Silver on the chip itself, like you would with a computer processor.

    • If you decide to do this, at this time you can follow the manufacturer's instructions for cleaning the heatsink of the old thermal paste and, if applicable, tinting the heatsink.

    • Looking through the hole where the heatsink sits you can see the top of the DLP chip. Almost there!

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    • Next remove the four screws that hold the DMD board outer cover on.

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    • Then remove the outer DMD board cover by pulling it away from the board gently.

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    • With the DMD board exposed, proceed to remove the four screws that hold the heatsink bracket to the board.

    • DO NOT touch the screws highlighted in red.

    • These three screws highlighted in red are for adjustment of the DLP chip/DMD board. If you touch them you will throw off the factory adjustment of your chip.

    • With the four screws highlighted in green removed you can remove the heatsink bracket.

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    • With the heatsink bracket removed the DMD board can be removed from the rear cover.

    • It can help to start removing the board by pulling out on the upper right edge.

    • Then, pull on the right side of the board.

    • The board should then pivot out from the right. It is a snug fit but it should remove with care.

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    • With the DMD board removed you will see the three screws again. DO NOT touch these! I just wanted to say that again!

    • With the DMD board removed you can see where the chip mates with the rest of the light engine, in the opening at the center of the cover. It is a good time to use a bit of canned air to blow dust out of this area.

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    • Turn the DMD board over and you will see the DLP chip.

    • If you've ever removed a computer CPU you will find this is a bit different. The chip is not held in with a "Zero Insertion Force" mechanism with a clip or lever. Instead, it is held in by the tension of the pins alone.

    • Therefore, when removing the chip, simply pull up until it releases from the board.

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    • In the first picture, see the outside facing part of the chip that touches the heatsink. From the factory the top of the chip doesn't have any thermal compound on it. This is where I chose to add Arctic Silver thermal paste to help with the thermal protection of the chip. This is optional.

    • In the second picture you can see the defective mirror surface in the DLP chip. A good mirror surface should look clean with a rainbow effect. This defective mirror shows many small spots.

    • In the third picture you can see the socket that the DLP chip fits in to. When installing your replacement chip it simply pushes in.

    • Be very careful not to touch the mirror surface of the chip. Also, if you see ANY dust on the mirror surface of the chip, remove it with canned air and/or a soft lint free cloth until it's perfectly clean.

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    • Here is the new DLP chip, and so we are ready to reassemble!

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    • While reassembly is generally the reverse of the dis-assembly, when re-installing the heatsink you should make sure it's a snug fit once the clip is installed. Wiggle the heatsink; it should move very little. If it moves too much, remove the clip and bend the ends upward so that it provides more tension when it is installed.

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    • All done! No more dots on the TV, ready to go for more years of service!

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

21 other people completed this guide.

Nicolas Siemsen

Member since: 12/06/2013

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Perfect guide!!! I just used this and replaced chip in less than 45 minutes and now working perfectly!! Only suggestion is that I used sticky notes for each step and the corresponding screws/parts. Made it very easy to put back together. Thank you!!

casey c - Reply

Great! Glad it worked, and good idea with the sticky notes. Keep it up!

Nicolas Siemsen -

This is about as good as a guide can be . This problem just started for me .Glad i found this !

chris - Reply

Glad to hear it Chris!

Nicolas Siemsen -

where do you buy the part?

Maria - Reply

I see you found it on Amazon, but I got mine on The price is the same, but they offer an 18 month warranty last time I checked which was more than the sellers on amazon did.

Nicolas Siemsen -

this part is on Amazon for $184.

Maria - Reply

if I mistakenly removed the "forbidden three screws" from the board ---which I did! How can I restore factory settings? Right now a have a very blurry pix---cant even read menu.

herb driscoll - Reply

I just did the same thing and now the screen is super blurry. What do we do now?

someonepro1320 -

I watched some youtube videos about doing this fix before doing it myself, and writing this guide. If I remember right, one of them addressed how to re-adjust these screws but you'll have to do some searching and watching unfortunately to find it yourself. Good luck!

Nicolas Siemsen -

Any suggestions if we did this and the entire picture is blurry? Was thinking chip was bad? Placed old one that had the white dots and it's blurry as well?? Any help would be appreciated email is

Ben Figueroa - Reply

Excellent tutorial!!! Thanks for taking the time to post, everything is laid out for us and is super easy to follow.

Ben, I don't have actual instructions but if you take the cover off the back, underneath the lamp there is a focus adjustment knob. You can go into the Service Menu and there is a focus setting that will put a grid up where you can see the lines go from zigzag to straight when you turn the knob. If I find the video I saw it in a while back I'll post it here.

timrectanus - Reply

I said the knob was underneath the lamp but I meant the lens, my apologies.

timrectanus -

This video starts talking about focus adjustment at the 15:30 mark.

timrectanus -

my samsung 56 inch dlp tv i cannot make brightness move to higher level it shows on screen but does not change brightness . what do i do

robert hess - Reply

Thanks for your great instructions. However, after replacing theDLP chip, the white dots are gone but we now have white vertical lines.

Can you help?

cghollingworth - Reply

absolutly fantastic guide

j drano - Reply

awesome tutorial, but I committed a mistake and I accidentally changed the lamp sync from Pulse (P) to Pass (T), now it starts on and off and it does not stop, what can I do?

North Jersey Bujinkan Buyu - Reply

Had the famous black dots all over the screen of an HLT6187SX/XAA. As soon as I removed the old chip, I could see the same dead mirror pattern right on the old chip when angled toward the light. New chip fixed the problem! This guide was great, but there are differences due to the different model of TV. The common thing is the location of the chip, it’s always on that DMD board. Thanks for posting!

Ryan - Reply

I bet there are some differences, but I'm glad the guide still helped and that your TV is fixed!

Nicolas Siemsen -

Do you know if it’s the chip or the lightbulb tv lens

Miguel fernandez - Reply

How can you tell if it’s the chip or lens that’s messing up

Miguel fernandez - Reply

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