Introduction

Use this guide to replace a cracked or broken display on your Samsung Galaxy S8.

Note: This guide instructs you to replace only the display while leaving the original frame, logic board, and battery in place. However, some replacement screens for this phone come pre-installed in a new frame (a.k.a. chassis), which requires a very different procedure—transplanting your phone's internals and installing a new battery. Make sure you have the correct part before starting this guide.

This guide involves removing the rear glass cover, you will need replacement adhesive to reattach the back cover to the phone. If your replacement screen does not come with adhesive, you will need to use tape to secure it as well.

If the frame is damaged or bent, it's important to replace it, or else the new screen may not mount correctly and can suffer damage from uneven pressure.

The process of separating the display from the frame usually destroys the display, so don't follow this guide unless you intend to replace the display.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Reply

I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

Sherry Carew - Reply

Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

Esmond Pitt - Reply

Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

Regards,

Cedric

Cedric VINCENT - Reply

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Reply

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - Reply

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - Reply

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - Reply

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Karl Marble - Reply

  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Reply

Yes, as does a heat gun.

anonymous 4602 - Reply

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - Reply

  • Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive.

  • Apply a heated iOpener to a long edge of the S8 for about 2 minutes.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

  • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the OLED display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

  • As you're waiting for the adhesive to soften, move on and read the following step to get an idea of where to pry.

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  • In the following steps you will be cutting through the adhesive around the edge of the rear glass panel.

  • The adhesive on the rear case is laid out as seen in the first image.

  • The prying pattern as seen from the outside of the phone is as follows:

    • Thick portions of adhesive

    • Thin areas of adhesive

    • Avoid prying here, to protect the fingerprint sensor.

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  • Once the back panel is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup as close to the heated edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge.

    • The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass.

    • If the phone's back cover is cracked, the suction cup may not stick. Try lifting it with strong tape, or superglue the suction cup in place and allow it to cure so you can proceed.

  • Lift on the suction cup, and insert a halberd spudger, or opening pick, under the rear glass.

    • Due to the curved glass, you will be pushing up, rather than inserting parallel to the plane of the phone.

We can't seem to get anything between the edges even after heating the back panel. Any tips?

Megan Kennington - Reply

Hi Megan, unfortunately the adhesive is super tough on this one. I’d recommend carefully continuing to apply heat, very gradually so that you don’t accidentally overheat the battery. Eventually you should be able to get a little gap with the suction handle.

Adam O'Camb -

  • Once you have the tool firmly inserted into the glass, reheat and reapply the iOpener to soften the adhesive.

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  • Slide an opening pick or the blade of a Halberd spudger down the side of the phone, separating the adhesive.

  • Go slowly so that the tool doesn't slip out of the seam. If cutting becomes difficult, reheat and reapply the iOpener.

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  • Repeat the previous heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.

  • Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Petite erreur: le guide dit iPhone au lieu de S7 :)

Nicolas Duthilleul - Reply

Bonjour Nicolas ! Merci pour la remarque ;-) Nous l’avons prise en compte et corrigé la traduction. La prochaine fois, n’hésitez pas à corriger directement en cliquant sur le bouton Traduire en haut à droite de l’étape.

Claire Rapp -

  • The fingerprint sensor cable connects the phone to the rear glass near the main camera. The cable is very short and should disconnect as the rear glass is removed.

  • As you lift the glass, peek in to be sure the orange cable with a blue connector has disconnected.

  • Use the opening picks to slice through any remaining adhesive and open the phone slightly.

  • If the fingerprint sensor cable seems snagged or stays taut do not open the phone any further. Disconnect the connector with the point of a spudger before proceeding.

  • During reassembly, in order to reconnect the fingerprint sensor cable, first angle the back cover into position until the cable connector lines up perfectly over its socket. Then, use the flat end of your spudger to gently snap the connector into place by pressing it straight down.

  • Remove the glass from the phone.

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  • To reinstall the back cover:

    • First use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from both the back cover and the phone's chassis.

    • Then, clean the adhesion areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth. This will help prep the surface for the new adhesive.

    • Be sure to turn on your phone and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing the phone.

    • Replacement adhesive comes in a pre-cut sheet to match the exact contours of the back cover. If that's not available, you can use a high-bond double-sided tape, such as Tesa 61395. Be aware that this leaves gaps that are vulnerable to liquid intrusion.

    • After installing the rear cover, apply strong, steady pressure to your phone for several minutes to help the adhesive form a good bond, such as by placing it under a stack of heavy books.

  • If desired, you may reinstall the back cover without replacing the adhesive. Remove any large chunks of adhesive that might prevent the back cover from sitting down flush. After installation, heat the back cover and apply pressure to secure it. It won't be waterproof, but the glue is usually more than strong enough to hold.

Bonjour,

Vous parlez d’ajouter de l’adhésif, comment et où le trouve-t-on cet adhésif ?

Difficile à appliquer ?

Cordialement,

Stéphane

Steph D - Reply

Mille excuses, je viens de voir les “adhesive strips” :)

Steph D - Reply

  • Remove eleven 3.7 mm screws.

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  • Remove the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.

  • Although the battery is not shown in the next steps, there is no need to remove it for this guide. Just disconnect the battery and you're good to go.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display and digitizer connector.

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  • Heat an iOpener and apply it to one of the long edges of the S8 for about 2 minutes.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

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  • Once the screen is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup as close to the heated edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge.

    • The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass.

    • If the phone's screen is cracked, the suction cup may not stick. Try lifting it with strong tape, or superglue the suction cup in place and allow it to cure so you can proceed.

  • Lift on the suction cup, and insert a halberd spudger, or opening pick, under the display assembly.

    • Due to the curved glass, you will be pushing up, rather than inserting parallel to the plane of the phone.

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  • Once you have the tool firmly inserted into the glass, reheat and reapply the iOpener to soften the adhesive.

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  • Slide an opening pick or the blade of a Halberd spudger down the side of the phone, separating the adhesive.

  • Go slowly so that the tool doesn't slip out of the seam. If cutting becomes too difficult, reheat and reapply the iOpener.

  • The screen's flex cable is located just below the midpoint on this side, and may interfere with your cutting tool.

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  • Repeat the previous heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.

  • Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

    • When inserting the opening picks into the side of the phone, insert a long edge of the opening pick, instead of a point, to avoid putting extra stress on the screen.

  • Use a little extra caution when prying near the top edge so as not to damage the front-facing sensors and earpiece speaker.

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  • Use an opening card to pry the screen away from the midframe.

  • Check the back of the phone and note which side of the phone has the display and digitizer connector. Pry on the opposite side of the phone from the connector—the connector will act as a hinge.

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  • Carefully lift the screen assembly away from the midframe, gently pulling the display connector through the hole in the midframe.

  • Remove the screen assembly.

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  • Before installing a new display, it's very important to remove all traces of the old adhesive from the frame, while taking special care to remove any small glass fragments.

  • After removing all traces of glue and glass from the frame, clean the adhesion areas with 90% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth.

  • If the frame is bent, or if any glue or glass remnants are left behind, the new display will not mount correctly and may be damaged. If necessary, replace the frame.

  • The best way to secure the new screen is with a sheet of custom-cut double-sided tape. Apply the tape to the back of the screen, then carefully feed the display cable through the frame. Align the screen and press it into place.

Hi, could you tell me what the earpiece is like? The atrial speaker. I would appreciate it, I can not see how completely the piece is stuck.

Elliot - Reply

Hi @fsociety_00_dat, you can find a replacement guide for the earpiece speaker here. All that holds it on the mid frame is adhesive around the speaker grill. Step 25 in that guide has good photos of the speaker being removed and shows where the adhesive is.

Adam O'Camb - Reply

I appreciate your answer, I mean the back, not behind hehe. I mean if you have any support, is that by accident, I put my lower hand on the top of the mobile, where the earpiece. That's why I would like to know if it has not sunk or has been able to take off or not even happened at all. Thank you very much.

Elliot -

Sorry, Google Translate

Elliot - Reply

@fsociety_00_dat, the display and speaker cover are both rigid enough to protect the speaker from light pressure, and the adhesive holding the speaker is strong. The earpiece speaker is probably fine and did not move at all.

Adam O'Camb - Reply

Thank you very much, then I can rest assured that you have not moved the grids you have. In fact, this model has a bit of depth grid, like the S9. Anything that can translate here I am. Greetings and thank you

Elliot -

Replacing the glass seems to require replacing the LCD display too. I followed the instructions to a t and the display won't show anymore. Can I get some assistance on the last step of reapplying the new screen?

Gunter Herd - Reply

Conclusion

After reapplying adhesive, follow these instructions in reverse order to reassemble your device.

99 other people completed this guide.

Adam O'Camb

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34 Comments

Did my first repair two days ago. If you've done any other samsung repairs such as S7 or S7E, this will be cake for you to do. If you have big fingers like I do, the most challenging thing will be the fingerprint scanner flex on the back glass, connecting and reconnecting.

Jason Stewart - Reply

I go about this repair a bit differently if I want to salvage the lcd. I remove the battery motherboard and sensors , and start through the opening in the frame under the battery. I drip isopropyl alcohol along the perimeter of the battery opening applying heat and work a playing card in between the LCD and the frame, loosening adhesive as I go.

Ryan Brondyke - Reply

I like the way you think.

Jason Stewart -

Great guide, very accurate. Be very careful along the right side of the device, as it is very, very easy to shear the connector flex in half. To avoid any chance of damage, I remove the board and front camera/sensor flex. It's an easy job, and saves a massive headache if any parts are damaged. Overall quite a familiar phone to work on, if you've ever done any S6's and upwards.

Harry Rowse - Reply

mine was a success….excpt the tempature logo keeps flashing…any ideas on how to fix it?

Garrett - Reply

I had this issue to, there seems to be a heat sensor connected to the wireless charging device. In one case it helped to replace the battery but in another it didn’t. Anyone else who has more experience from this?

Erik Fogelberg -

Where will i be able to buy a samung s8 glass screen only because every where i check it includes an lcd

Jonathan Ruiz - Reply

Hi Jonathan! This guide is to replace the whole screen assembly. The OLED screen is extremely thin and fragile and cannot be removed safely from the glass by the ordinary DIYer, to say nothing of the reassembly process. It makes it a bit more expensive to have a fused display but this repair isn’t possible with separated display/glass components.

Sam Lionheart -

My Samsung S8 screen is broken . I wanted to how much will it cost to replace it and how long does it take ?

Kritika Sachan - Reply

I have a cracked screen on my Galaxy S8. i called an authorized Samsung Repair location a dn was quoted $220.00 for one day service.

Walt Fletcher -

Samsung authorized repair location quoted $220.00 for screen replacement. Best Buy is $250.00. Galaxy S8 with cracked screen.

Walt Fletcher -

Just curious… why do you have to tear down to replace the screen assembly? Why can’t you start at Step 16?

LENZAQ - Reply

Because you need to perform step 15 to take the screen out, and that connector is on the back…

Dre Albulescu -

Does anyone know if i must purchase the glass replacement with the LCD for the galaxy S8? I found a glass replacement that does not include LCD and it saves me like 200 dollars. thank you

Isamar D.C - Reply

My phone responds to my touch its just cracked on the side. what type of screen do i need. Do i need one with LCD

Meranda Carty - Reply

You just need the outer glass screen, but I'm not sure if the phone need to be disassembled like in this tutorial to replace this screen. Any advice on this?

Dean Al Salem -

There’s a chance you can replace just the digitizer without removing the entire display, but since you can’t disconnect the display cable without opening the back of the phone, you’d risk tearing the display cable while working on the display. Separating the digitizer from the LCD is also an extremely difficult and risky process in itself, and isn’t recommended unless you really know what you’re doing.

Adam O'Camb -

Do you not need glue to re-seal before following the steps backwards?

mylesmchugh - Reply

When following the steps backward to reassemble the phone, you’ll first need rear cover adhesive strips, to reinstall the rear cover. Toward the end of reassembly, when you’re ready to install the display, you’ll need display adhesive strips for the long sides of the display, and Tesa tape for the short sides of the display. Unfortunately, the phone will likely not be fully waterproof after reassembly.

Adam O'Camb -

Yesterday I replaced broken LCD and the middle frame. Finally, when I tried to put cardholder into the hole it did not go. Did I forget something or do I need to do something before?

Jure Tandara - Reply

can i get in to the wather my samsung s8 after i change the glass??

Martin Freire Carrera - Reply

Why does the back of the phone have to come off to replace the screen

Glen Tracey - Reply

Hi Glen, unfortunately the display cable threads through the mid frame and connects on the back of the motherboard. To find and unplug that connector you have to open up the back of the phone before you can remove the display.

Adam O'Camb -

Boa Noite. Muito bom . Foi muito útil . Pra mim. Obrigado, por dividi seu conhecimento..

Wendell araujo - Reply

Spend an hour with a heat gun trying to insert the spudger with zero progress. Is it possible they changed the adhesive?

Josh Eaves - Reply

Unfortunately in this phone’s case it’s very much “try try again!” The seam allowances are extremely tight, and it does seem to vary between units. We definitely spend a good long while trying to gain purchase. If you don’t have the thin-profiled halberd spudger, you should be able to use the triangular opening pick, or a plastic opening tool. It may also help to use a heavy duty suction cup, or even a suction cup on each side. Also do be sure that you’re prying at an upward angle, not perpendicular to the phone. Best of luck!

Sam Lionheart -

I can’t get my digitizer to reconnect. Could the connector be broke? Any tips on how to get it to reconnect?

Ben Knight - Reply

Broken front glass on my S8. I have some spots where it seems unresponsive (by the cracks in the glass). No damage to the LCD, curious if glass only will fix or if glass and digitizer is needed?

Kevin Litvak - Reply

Technically you can replace the digitizer separately from the LCD, but it’s an extremely difficult repair requiring special tools, and you’re very likely to break the LCD in the process. Replacing the digitizer and LCD together is much safer and more reliable.

Adam O'Camb -

dopo la riparazione il telefono ( galaxy s8) perde l’impermeabilità o potrebbe riscontrare altri problemi con più facilità?

giovanni russo - Reply

Hi, I’m working through this right now and I had difficulty figuring out how to pull the back and front off, specifically how to hold the rest of the phone whilst pulling on the suction cap, I tried using one hand on the base or top and the other on the cap and managed to lift but I didn’t have enough hands to use a third one to get the bayonette in. It’s also not clear in the instructions how to accomplish this. My solution was to use my bare foot big toe side to hold the bottom whilst lifting with the suction cap on the edge middle using my middle finger on the cap and other fingers on the top of the phone and then the bayonet with my other hand, after getting it in it was easy but my solution seems a little bit insane and using my foot made me look like a complete fool.

does anyone have any adivice for an easier way to pull on the suction cap, hold the rest of the phone, and still have a hand free to slide under? is there a tool or something like a vice or clamp or something that could make this easier?

ersatzmelon - Reply

I would also like to add that as I’m replacing the screen, it’s obviously been broken, so theres alot of cracks in the glass that make the whole process for the front feel very dangerous and theres also of the screen surface thats super hard to get the suction cap to gain purchase on, I’ve been able to get it off but I’m sure that this might be an area that might need special attention, perhaps more advice for how to manage this step safer.

Also as the screen is broken, turning off the phone in order to work on it was really difficult, the s8+ I have requires you to press an on screen button to turn it off, you seemingly can’t just use the physical buttons, I had to use an educated guess about the button location and repeat pressing the side mechanical power button and then blindly proding the broken screen, adding a step that could make this easier would have saved time, if theres a way to turn it off without using the screen that would help also.

ersatzmelon -

Hi, that’s a great question. I usually have my left had on the phone, using my index finger and thumb to pull on the suction cup, and using the rest of my hand to stabilize the phone. I insert the pick or halberd spudger with my other hand. This definitely is not an easy process and I think everyone has a slightly different way to they do it. Alternatively, using an iSclack can make opening the phone way simpler if you’re having trouble with the suction cup.

If the screen’s badly cracked, I’d recommend taping over the screen with packing tape to contain any glass shards. Then you can make a handle with another piece of tape or glue the suction cup down to lift the screen. I’ve also updated the guide with information to help handle a cracked screen—thanks for bringing that up!

Adam O'Camb -

hey , so I replaced my friends s8 screen which I did before on my s8 but his phone is been acting weird it gets stuck on T-Mobile for a few mintues and then it will access the phone then dieds

Raed - Reply

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