Good millstones are essential for an aromatic coffee. The beans are then not squeezed but nicely cut, and the ground is finer.

  1. Unplug!
    • Unplug!

    • Remove all attachments like water tank, brewing unit etc.

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  2. The coffeebean supply is fixed with two screws. Unscrew them and lift it off.
    • The coffeebean supply is fixed with two screws. Unscrew them and lift it off.

    • The adjuster of the grinder has to be solved. Mark the position or just take a picture. This type is fixed with a screw, others are only sticked together.

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    • There are two screws to be turned out.

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    • The screws are situated on the underneath of the cover. This type is held by four screws.

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    • Now the cover can be raised: first grip on left and reight rear side and lift about 10 cm. Sometimes the cover jams a little bit.

    • Solve the hoses which lead to the water tank. Sometimes you have to pull out some contacts, (e.g. the yellow-green protection lead), don´t forget to put it on later.

    • The cover can be drawn aslant towards the front, sliding it over the hot water pipe.

    • Most repairs can be done with the cover being laid up partially , it must not be completely removed.

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    • Note the blue markings. Turn the outer ring against the clock until the blue marks are opposite.

    • Then the ring can be lifted off. Siphon off all ground coffee immediately.

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    • The Phillips screw, which holds the milling cone has a left-hand thread, so "wrong turn" turn! The screw is often hidden under parts of coffee beans.

    • After loosening the screw you can first lift the auger, then carefully the grinding cone. You can see the three balls of the slip clutch. Carefully lift out and keep safely.

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    • The driver can be pulled up. Pay attention to the three springs on which the balls of the slip clutch lie, these also safe to store.

    • All parts are thoroughly cleaned and degreased.

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    • The cap of the grinding ring can be removed by pushing the small notches alternately left and right with a screwdriver.

    • The grinding ring is fastened with clamps. Press with the screwdriver to the side, then the Mahlring can be solved.

    • Again, everything is cleaned well, then pressed the new ring and the lid put on.

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    • Here are all parts.

    • The driver is reinstated. Then the three feathers and beads inserted. When adjusting the new grinding cone, make sure that the balls are in the recesses on the bottom.

    • Then insert the auger so that it engages correctly in the grooves.

    • Finally, insert the central bolt, push the cone down slightly and tighten the bolt. Reminder: left-hand thread, that is "falschrum".

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    • Note: The thread of the adjusting ring should be well clear of flour dust, this can be achieved by screwing and unscrewing.

    • The mounted grinding ring is inserted. At first, the markers face each other. The outer ring is turned on until a resistance can be felt. So the millstones sit on each other.

    • Then he is turned back about 15 stops. This is about the middle setting of the degree of grinding, but can also be fine-tuned later.

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Repeat the steps in order to reassemble your device.

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Member since: 10/19/2015

58,138 Reputation

47 Guides authored



unabhängig aller Farben und Pfeilen auf dem Mahlring bzw. Einstellring ist der Mahlring beliebig in die drei Nuten des Einstellringes einzusetzen. Danach den Einstellring im Uhrzeigersinn soweit drehen, dass Widerstand spürbar ist. Danach ca. 14 Rastungen gegen Uhrzeigersinn drehen. Feineinstellung nach Mahltest.

Wilfried Billich - Reply

Achtung! Viele der neu gekauften Mahlsets sind falsch, Mahlstein und Mahlring sind nicht zueinander abgestimmt. Zu erkennen, wenn der Mahlstein im Mahlring auf glatter Fläche aufliegt und der Spalt zu Mahlring mehr als 1-2 mm groß ist.

Wilfried Billich - Reply

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