Introduction

Use this guide to replace a worn-out battery.

Video Overview

Remove the following ten screws:
  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

    • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

Does void the warranty?

jfondeur - Reply

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

oakdragon12 - Reply

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

gunes314 - Reply

You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Reply

Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

Seji the veggie -

What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

pmhparis -

The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!

While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.

Dan -

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

John Adam Wickliffe - Reply

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

renatumb - Reply

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker - Reply

Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

kschmesk - Reply

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

Alex - Reply

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

brian whittle - Reply

Hello MacWorld,

Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

wer 10/5/15

tayseer999 - Reply

I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

GotMac - Reply

Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

taylornya - Reply

on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

Maximilian Klotz - Reply

I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

gilded yak - Reply

Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

Jack - Reply

I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…

Michael Wilkens -

I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

rodrigosady - Reply

I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

Michael Wilkens -

I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

Stephen Smith - Reply

A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

Wilder Torres - Reply

Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

airshack - Reply

when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

Matt - Reply

It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same

Luca Giancarli - Reply

If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.

Raymond Ives -

The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

Don Cely - Reply

Two screw types:

______________________________

Shouldered Unshouldered

xxxxxxx……….xxxxxxx

..xxxxx……..….…….x…….

…..x……..…...……….x…….

…..x…………....……..x…….

______________________________

El Crashitan - Reply

If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

Patrick Langvardt - Reply

Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.
  • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

  • Remove the lower case.

If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

Thanks for your help.

Mikell - Reply

bonjour cette truc ça marche au mac Brook pro Retina ou pas?

Shi Feng - Reply

Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil https://fr.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-Mac (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !

Claire Rapp -

Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

Volkan Ogul - Reply

  • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh - Reply

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull -

Sooo the track pad is under the battery...you kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.

stiknrudder -

This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

Steven Layton - Reply

My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

Diego Hernandes -

Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!

stiknrudder -

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

ausmkv - Reply

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

Peter - Reply

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

John - Reply

simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

toiu - Reply

What do you mean by "remove the battery"?

Anrothan -

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

fasthans - Reply

Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

aekinaka - Reply

Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

MacProUser - Reply

Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

Simon Mundy - Reply

I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

Zeerachen - Reply

Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

Ed Oliver - Reply

DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

Bradley Marks - Reply

Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

nichoferr - Reply

Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

Mfernandez - Reply

This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

wassberg -

Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

Stephen Smith - Reply

I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

Raymond Rinaldi - Reply

Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

Marijke de Vries - Reply

The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165

B T - Reply

I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

airshack - Reply

Hello!

Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

Myzcio - Reply

  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

Diego Hernandes - Reply

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

timgunkel - Reply

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Sal Ergrapes - Reply

I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

Stephen Smith - Reply

That's a good tip

Anrothan -

Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

Ian Thal - Reply

One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

lelandjordon - Reply

does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

Darren Rose - Reply

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 5.6 mm Tri-point screw

    • One 13 mm Tri-point screw

Tri-wings are quite sensitive to which size driver to use. I found Pro'sKit brand size 0 seems to fit these very well.

James - Reply

can i just take out my dead battery without replacing it,

and solely run my mbp on power supply to save weight and money?

Tosh - Reply

I assume that REPLACING a new battery is the same steps but in reverse? Nothing special we need to look out for?

Also, please add some comments about watching out for STATIC ELECTRICITY. Other videos and websites make it seem frighteningly dangerous and recommend other tools to prevent static electricity discharge. If you could address this issue, I would greatly appreciate it.

erictwo - Reply

Are the screws tri-wing or tri-point? There is a difference, but ifixit uses the terms as if they're interchangable. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Tri-point

rodmanc - Reply

These screws do absolutely NOT have the TRI-WING® recess. I find, the LHSTIX 3ULR MicroStix size 3ULR-0 driver fits perfectly.

unsubstantiated - Reply

My battery (original to my late 2011 MBP) straight up does not have screws.

nlgauvreau - Reply

  • Carefully peel the battery warning label off the upper case between the battery and the optical drive.

  • Do not remove the label from the battery.

What is the reasoning behind not removing the label from the (old) battery?

tom - Reply

Probably to help you remove it? Not sure, but I used it along with the clear tab to pull the battery out. Worked pretty good.

aitorrecalde -

  • Use the attached plastic pull tab to remove the battery from the upper case.

Hey there !

i replaced my old battery with the one I purchased from ifixit following the guidance. Niw I have the problem, that my macbookpro 13” late 2011 doesn’t boot anymore and the led of my plug just blinks orange rapidly. What happened. Can anybody think of smth, or have had similar experiences?

Mak - Reply

My replacement battery came with a clear protective film that should be removed before installation. Be sure not to overlook the film on the bottom of the battery as it covers only a portion of that side and might be easy to overlook.

Do not over-tighten the bolts holding the battery in place. One of the tabs on the original battery was broken, presumably due to over-tightening.

Patrick Langvardt - Reply

Is it possible to use the trackpad from MacBook Unibody Model A1278 in this macbook pro?

Ralf Justinger - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

479 other people completed this guide.

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21 Comments

Not one anti static precaution in sight.! Replace your battery for years of further use but with the risk that a latent fault introduced by lack of any static damage precautions.

Stuart Potter - Reply

I thought these batteries couldn't be replaced.

brucebridges - Reply

These batteries are built to the same spec as OEM (Apple)

They are just not "user friendly" to replace like most devices are, the price we pay for pretty devices.

This guide is excellent and now I know I need 1 more tool before I do this myself. I need that tri-wing screwdriver.

John Lang -

Anyone know of any batteries with a larger capacity that could fit this?

Anrothan - Reply

It seems that there are no true larger capacity batteries for this Macbook. Ones that claim higher capacity are usually of dubious quality.

coffee -

Can I use A1280 battery instead of A1278 battery for my late 2011 MacBook Pro

saqqaf.adel - Reply

Clear, well written instructions, thank you! (But yes, a line about take off shoes and socks and ground yourself is helpful. )

unlvkatherine - Reply

Warning: if you have not used this MBP for a while, check how it does look like.

I kept mine for backwards compatibility (such as Rosetta and old FireWire). I cleaned up my drawer today.

See how it looked like today: http://666kb.com/i/do60coz0kn5z5txd5.jpg

The battery was most severely blown up, crashing the body shell. I’m glad it did not burn the house to ashes.

Martin - Reply

Wow! On your Picture we see the original battery from Apple! Yes?

Mario -

I just replaced my battery, and had no issues. Great instruction manual, and easy to do.

Christopher Chupp - Reply

Thank you very much. it was a great help. till now i thought it required an expert. thanks again.

richard - Reply

Where should I discard the old battery?

Tamara - Reply

Does anyone have any recommendations of the replacement battery i should use? Finding it really hard to find the best one!

LiviB - Reply

Hi! I ordered a battery from your website and followed your instructions installing it. Everything seemed to be working fine, except that I now realised it only charges with 4.2w. It takes about 15 hours to charge it. Is the battery defective or is there something I can do? It also jumps down to 7% charge randomly.

Niklas Palm - Reply

I've reset SMC —> no difference

Niklas Palm -

Swapped the battery again, back to my original and it charges with 22w. I’m guessing the battery is defective?

Niklas Palm -

It happened to me too! i’ll try to calibrate the battery as apple says https://support.apple.com/es-es/HT1490

Luís - Reply

Well, that was super easy. Thanks, iFixit! Now, what do I do with this swollen old MacBook Pro battery?

Alejandro Torres - Reply

I wonder If it’s possible to cut the connectors Wires off the battery and buy android cel phone battery’s and connect the connector to the batteries or do same thing with a normal pc battery

NicVandEmZ - Reply

I replaced the battery, and it was very easy. The problem lies in fact that my laptop will only run for about 20 minutes then shuts down. I put the old battery back in and it is working fine. Is this a defective battery?

Bill Hicks - Reply

I was having issues with my Mac, it suddenly doesn’t start even with other AC charger. The Baterry leds indicates it is fully charged… Well, i search over the net, and find something about switching of the battery connector, start the mac, then shut off, and put the battery connector again. It seemed to work, but then I realiced, the next start up was having again the same problem, neither sound nor image… it was again apparentelly dead!! I decided to get off the battery, then start again only with the AC charger, and it works… The next step, was, without taking out the AC charger, try to start again, but there was the problem again, it doesn’t start. To resume: without battery it starts once, after this, i have to switch of the charger and then starts. With battery, after doing the battery removal process, also starts one time, but after this, it doesn’t start. May it be neccesary to change the main battery?? I search for a PRAM Batery but not found any. What can I do?? Thanks and sorry if there are mistakes

Ignacio - Reply

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