Introduction

Battery not lasting long? Swap it out.

Image 1/1:
  • Before opening your iPod, ensure that the hold switch is in the locked position.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: The top bezel is held on with an adhesive, so it may be necessary to pry up in several different locations to free the part.
  • Carefully insert a small flathead screwdriver in the seam between the metal casing and white plastic top. Use the screwdriver to pry up the white plastic top bezel. Be careful not to damage the soft plastic with your screwdriver.

  • The top bezel is held on with an adhesive, so it may be necessary to pry up in several different locations to free the part.

  • To make this job easier, heat up the adhesive with a hairdryer on low heat for a few seconds.

You can also gently use a metal spudger to lift up both the top and bottom bezels. Allow only 1/8" of the metal spudger (like the screwdriver in the picture) to get inside to get leverage, before fully lifting the bezel up. Please note where the little "teeth" are underneath the bezels, or you can damage those if you are not careful.

Also, using too big of a flathead screwdriver can cause damage to the plastic and chips away plastic from where you were trying to pry up the bezels, ruining the look of the iPod.

rsharich - Reply

There should be a button here for "I did it -- EPIC FAILURE!!" When I put my iPod back together, the components on the mainboard were scraping against the clickwheel, and maybe the battery wasn't in perfect alignment, but the result was that there was a lethal amount of friction when sliding the assembly back into the case. As I was trying to relieve the pressure by tilting the board down using a spudger from the bottom, the top of the display bezel ended up scraping against the casing in such a way that it cracked from the center of the right edge. OUCH!! There goes a $50 repair job and a $40 replacement cost! Bye Bye perfectly working iPod Mini )-;

There are two safeguards that can be done when reassembling this iPod. First, use a stiff piece of plastic film as a shim and lubricant between the top of the logic board and the top inside of the case, such as anti-static packaging, or the clear bag packaging of Apple display dongles (use an exacto knife to cut a long strip of it). Don't cover the display with the plastic, just the logic board components. Second, instead of pushing down on the assembly from the top or sides of the display which will place dangerous pressure on it, connect a cable to the dock connector and pull on it from the bottom, and pull out the plastic shield deftly and easily after the assembly is in position.

steadfast I and I - Reply

If it's held on by adhesive, how do I get it back on?

Cam - Reply

If you have longish fingernails and don't mind ruining them, I found it helpful to run my thumbnail between the plastic and the metal casing before going at it with a screwdriver. The little "teeth" a previous commenter mentioned are at approximately the 1/3 and 2/3 marks on the long edge of the plastic casings.

rongshifen - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Lift the top bezel off of the iPod.

A thinner blade, such as a small pocket knife blade worked for me.

dean dillon - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Carefully insert a small flathead screwdriver in the seam between the metal casing and white plastic bottom Use the screwdriver to pry up the white plastic bottom bezel. Be careful not to damage the soft plastic with your screwdriver.

Again, be mindful and careful of the little white teeth on the underside of the plastic especially the two on the ends of the long sides.

DITOSP - Reply

Image 1/1: You can also use a flathead screwdriver to pry out the metal retaining bracket beneath the bottom bezel as shown. You can free the bracket by first pushing in the metal arms on the corners and then lifting the bracket.
  • A small pair of snap ring pliers is the easiest tool to remove the metal retaining bracket.

  • You can also use a flathead screwdriver to pry out the metal retaining bracket beneath the bottom bezel as shown. You can free the bracket by first pushing in the metal arms on the corners and then lifting the bracket.

Be *very* careful on the left hand side. It's almost too easy to scrape the click wheel cable and cause damage to it!

LambdaCalculus - Reply

I used a circlip tool and for removal and reinsertion. It was fast and easy and avoids bending the part. They are also referred to as snap ring pliers.

thezazupits - Reply

Quote from thezazupits:

I used a circlip tool and for removal and reinsertion. It was fast and easy and avoids bending the part. They are also referred to as snap ring pliers.

There are two kinds of snap ring pliers available. One pivots like regular pliers, one hinges in reverse (when you squeeze the handles, the tips spread). Use the first type.

PZencak - Reply

My click wheel lost some of its functionality. The back button, and the touch sensitivity to scroll through songs isn't working. :(

coombsnahuel - Reply

Hi,

I have followed this very good tutorial as carefully as I could and I thank you very much for having posted it!

However, my problem is not solved. After having connect-disconnect issues when used with car charger, the iPod started making faint noise when plugged and refused to charge or start-up. I thought it was a mechanical noise (hard drive?) but obviously it is not the case because battery and hard drive are now unplugged, and the board-screen assembly still makes the same noise when plugged in a USB socket (but of course I can't localize the origin of that noise).

Do you have any idea what it might be due to?

Thank you in advance for any advice,

Maxime

Maxime Gommeaux - Reply

I would definitely recommend either circlip pliers to take out the metal retaining bracket because using a screwdriver leaves obvious marks on he corners of the case. I have noticed many for sale on eBay that have these marks. There are now plastic 'lifters' available to remove the top and bottom bezels and these are brilliant if used carefully and go in easily on the click wheel / screen side but be aware that when removing the bottom bezel it may bend the case a bit but it is easily persuaded back into shape. I too have carried out 64 GB, 128 GB and 256 GB conversions to the mini with a compact flash to SD card adapter and before fitting I format the card in my Sony Alpha 350 camera and it works a treat. My daughter loves her 128 gb converted mini and it's almost bombproof with a solid state memory on board.

ptrmayhew6 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Lift the metal retaining bracket out of the iPod.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Careful not to dig the spudger in too deep to avoid detaching the contact on the logic board. Try to keep the spudger as close to the orange click wheel ribbon connector as possible.
  • Use a spudger or the tip of your finger to carefully disconnect the orange click wheel ribbon from the logic board.

  • Careful not to dig the spudger in too deep to avoid detaching the contact on the logic board. Try to keep the spudger as close to the orange click wheel ribbon connector as possible.

Be careful with the ribbon: do not pull on the actual ribbon itself. I made the mistake of doing this (as this guide isn't clear about it), and it caused my clickwheel to be glitchy and unresponsive.

I'd recommend using the flathead screwdriver and prying gently upward on the white connector (called a molex plug) below the orange ribbon. If it doesn't come out at first, go slow and don't use a lot of force. You'll want to use the same technique when disconnecting the battery plug later.

Illumina - Reply

hello !

When I disconnected the orange click wheel ribbon, accidentally I rip de orange wheel ribbon.

You have a new piece to send to me ?

thank You

Paulo

ptmont1 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two #00 Phillips screws securing the headphone jack to the casing.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Do not pull on the headphone jack board at the top of the iPod, as the connector to the logic board is fragile.
  • Carefully slide the iPod out of its casing by pushing on the logic board near the bottom edge of the click wheel.

  • Do not pull on the headphone jack board at the top of the iPod, as the connector to the logic board is fragile.

  • Be careful not to break the logic board connector off the iPod. The ribbon cable sits at the very top of the connector.

If you're iPod is dented in anyway expect this to not easily slide out. Took me a few minutes of prying on parts to get it to slide.

brock fansler - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • After pushing the logic board out sufficiently, gently grasp the logic board on either side of the display, and continue to slide the iPod out of its casing.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Lift the battery off of the logic board and lay it to the side of the iPod.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Carefully disconnect the battery from the logic board. Make sure to pull only on the connector and not on the battery wires.

If you need to, place the fingernail of one of your fingers, or use a spudger, to hold down the base where the iPod battery is connected. Take your time and have patience too. Using too much force can separate the base and ruin the logic board.

rsharich - Reply

The replacement battery from ifixit had a paper wrapping that I removed before installing. Also, the wire lead was much longer than the original so it had to be tucked in carefully.

DITOSP - Reply

I replaced the bat on two mini's and though each was a little different (removing from the metal body) this couldn't have been easier. I did use snap ring pliers to remove the bottom clip. Using them made it much easier as I was having trouble with the screwdrivers and the pliers are made for this purpose. All and all very satisfactory experience.

mbob518 - Reply

Well, there you go. I think I pulled up the base of the battery cable, the part that's soldered to the logic board (sickening snap). It seems connected at one solder point, but levers up from 4 other points. Not so good. Anyone thin I could solder this back with no issues? Heat? Solder composition? Hate to think I've come this far to have simply ruined the thing.

xfrench - Reply

the replacement battery is MUCH thicker than the original or a previous replacement battery.

The innards will not slide into place with the battery installed. Slides in and out easily with the previous, thinner, battery.

Did I get the incorrect battery??

mrmacfixit - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

254 other people completed this guide.

iRobot

Member since: 09/24/2009

1 Reputation

664 Guides authored

4 Comments

At step 7, it must be noted that the orange click wheel ribbon is connected to a plastic attachment, which is connected to the logic board. In disconnecting the click wheel ribbon don't pull the ribbon from its plastic attachment.

ggreif - Reply

i cant seem to slide it away from the casing, im pushing on the charger port and no movement what so ever

Chris Rafferty - Reply

Maybe the metal is bent, or the plastic on the top of the unit is somehow stuck. I'd look for a bend or disfigured metal, though.

nclee -

@mrmacfixit you must have. If it's the same voltage as the old battery, it will work, but you DON'T want to risk puncturing it forcing it into the case.

nclee - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 31

Past 7 Days: 201

Past 30 Days: 955

All Time: 163,758