Introduction

Battery not lasting long? Swap it out.

Before opening your iPod, ensure that the hold switch is in the locked position.  The orange bar should be visible, indicating hold is active.
  • Before opening your iPod, ensure that the hold switch is in the locked position. The orange bar should be visible, indicating hold is active.

How necessary is it to have the HOLD switch in the locked position? On my iPod the switch is stuck in the unlocked position and I can't force it into locked.

Is locking the iPod for a mechanical reason or an electrical/software reason?

gabeshaikh - Reply

Quote from gabeshaikh:

How necessary is it to have the HOLD switch in the locked position? On my iPod the switch is stuck in the unlocked position and I can't force it into locked.

Is locking the iPod for a mechanical reason or an electrical/software reason?

It is for an electrical reason. If the iPod hold switch is kept on, the device will not turn on, thus ensuring the device stays powered off while performing service.

trusty - Reply

I have a 60 GB iPod photo that needs a new Logic Board. I bought a 30 GB used iPod on eBay and replaced the Logic Board. Now the iPod thinks the hard drive is only 30 GB, when it is really 60 GB. It works, but the hard drive is not recognized for its full size. Sites like this offer a 20 GB and 40 GB logic board...I apparently need 60 GB. Can I bypass this somehow, or do I really need a logic board that is specifically made for 60 GB???

Mark - Reply

My 30gig drive shows up as a 16.4gig. I can not for the life of me, figure out why this is doing this. Can anyone help? Thanks!

Stephan - Reply

Hello,

First thank you for this tuto and help.

I did follow your instructions and every step was ok but when I closed my i'Pod, it kept staying on the lock position even with moving the lock button.

Now it has charged but I could not make it run.

So I did a complete reboot by connecting it to my Mac with i'Tunes to restore.

It's still locked.

What can I do?

Than You for your answer

Thomas

Voisin - Reply

Much quicker and far easier opening from the right side instead of from the top using the blue plastic spudger. Opened in under 10sec. Do not know why this guide asks you to start from the top and work it to the left corner. Perhaps it was meant as a challenge.

Edwin Seah - Reply

Well, I did it! I am pretty mechanically inclined, but I don't work well with small stuff. Anyway, as others mentioned, this step was the hardest for me, the included tools, worthless (to start to separate the case) As another person mentioned, I used a razor blade on the side on the upper left corner pushing down toward the metal clips, 'pop' once the first came off, then I used the blue tools to release the remaining clips. I didn't want to remove the connector in step 8, but had literally no room to work, the connector is a square push in type that is attached to the ribbon cable, I pryed with the blue tool carefully at the connector base, it popped right off! (getting is back on was more challenging, but managed with a small pair of needle nose pliers.) Had to pry the old battery out carefully - it was really in there. Got it all back together, works like a champ! Thanks ifixit!

mikesnyder - Reply

Promptly broke both blue plastic tools. I used a putty knife to pop the case. Opening was the only hard part. I didn't disconnect the headphone cable. No problems and the battery has enough charge that I listening to Bare Naked Ladies now. Last week I installed a new hard drive in my Mac mini. IFixit is the greatest!

heldon - Reply

If you are lucky, your battery may swell up like mind did, short of blowing up it opened the case for me. That being done really made it easy and encouraged me to do the repair myself. I still needed the proper screw driver (T6 Torx Screwdriver) to remove the two black torx screws that are found at step 10 of this repair guide. I purchased the iFixit 64bit driver kit, simply because I intend to work on several other iPods and phones, the kit is of good quality, well worth the purchase. If you have some mechanical ability, and follow the instructions, I was done in about 20 minutes, placed it back on my Bose player. I couldn't wait for it to charge, just wanted it to start playing, and after a minute or so my iPod 4th gen 20 gb was playing the music which I hadn't heard in about 3 to 4 years, as a result of a enlarged battery. As I write these comments down, I'm listening to my sweet tunes with a big smile on my mug, the sign of a satisfied customer. Thanks to iFIXIT.!!!

Alex DeLeon - Reply

Opening the iPod can be challenging. Don't get discouraged if it takes you a few tries before the iPod is opened. Insert a large iPod opening tool into the seam between the plastic front and metal rear panel of the iPod, near the headphone jack. The tool's edge should point towards the metal rear panel to prevent any accidental scratching of the plastic front.
  • Opening the iPod can be challenging. Don't get discouraged if it takes you a few tries before the iPod is opened.

  • Insert a large iPod opening tool into the seam between the plastic front and metal rear panel of the iPod, near the headphone jack. The tool's edge should point towards the metal rear panel to prevent any accidental scratching of the plastic front.

  • Run the tool along the top seam toward the upper left corner of the iPod. Press the tool into the corner, creating a small gap on the side of the case.

The plastic prying tools are pretty useless, but a 9/64-inch jewellers' screwdriver will pop the case very easily.

Human - Reply

Hardest part is step 2. The tools supplied in the kit don't seem to be able to pry the edge of the case. Like others I used a short blade knife, be very careful, to get the case opening started and used the iFixit tools to wedge the case open. Managed to scratch the silver case a bit near the top RH corner but that's the only damage. The rest of the process went smoothly and it went back together and I now have a working iPod for music in my garage. :-)

mmelocco - Reply

I strongly recommend a blunt table knife. A thin-bladed butter knife would be better. The crucial thing is to make a solid, stable gap so you can insert the small plastic gizmo and start running it around. A fine-edged jeweler's screwdriver is great for starting the gap, then the table knife (NOT a steak knife) widens and holds the gap, and you're in business.

Christopher Lehrich - Reply

I used a small paring Knife to get it started. Once first corner released comes easily.

tankerman - Reply

I used a "fake credit card", like the ones you receive in the mail. I had better luck opening the case on the long side first, not the top. I popped open easily. I tried to open it on the top for a couple of days. Maybe I was being too cautious, but it worked out.

energy96 - Reply

I had no problem using the tools provided in the kit.

Michael Caputi - Reply

Surprisingely i was able to detach the Backcover by just using a simple creditcard. I sharpened the long side of the card with a knife to slide in better. I bend the backcover firmly by pressing it away from the front by using my thumbs - press away the plastic cover to receive a small slot (both hands needed). I inserted the creditcard into this small gap, moved it along a few times and the complete side was detachable at a glance. —>> The creditcard is long enough to press down all 5 plastic-hinges. Perfect sollution to me, try it. No scratches, no bending - easy peazy. Step 2-6 arent necessary with this solution. Sorry for my plain english. Greetings, Sören from Germany

Sören - Reply

Push the large iPod opening tool into the upper left corner of the iPod, creating a small gap along the side seam.
  • Push the large iPod opening tool into the upper left corner of the iPod, creating a small gap along the side seam.

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There are five retaining tabs on each side of the iPod. With the large iPod opening tool still inserted in the top seam, press a small iPod opening tool into the gap you just created.
  • There are five retaining tabs on each side of the iPod.

  • With the large iPod opening tool still inserted in the top seam, press a small iPod opening tool into the gap you just created.

  • Run the iPod opening tool down the side seam, releasing all five tabs.

  • It may be necessary to wiggle the tool while working your way down the seam to free all the tabs.

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Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Run the iPod opening tool around the lower left corner of the iPod and along the bottom seam to free the two retaining clips near the dock connector.
  • Run the iPod opening tool around the lower left corner of the iPod and along the bottom seam to free the two retaining clips near the dock connector.

Use caution when running the opening tool along the bottom edge of the iPod. It is possible to damage the white plastic dock connector "gasket" if the tool's edge pushes too far down behind the metal edge of the rear casing. It is fairly thin and delicate, and I cracked mine requiring the use of some superglue to keep it in place.

scifiguy - Reply

Run the iPod opening tool around the lower right corner and slide it down the right side seam to free the five tabs holding the iPod together. You may be able to free the tabs by gently wiggling the front panel of the iPod.
  • Run the iPod opening tool around the lower right corner and slide it down the right side seam to free the five tabs holding the iPod together. You may be able to free the tabs by gently wiggling the front panel of the iPod.

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The iPod case is now open, but don't separate the two halves just yet. There is still an orange ribbon cable connecting the headphone jack to the logic board.
  • The iPod case is now open, but don't separate the two halves just yet. There is still an orange ribbon cable connecting the headphone jack to the logic board.

  • Open the case like a book with the dock connector edge at the top, and lay the rear panel next to the front half of the iPod.

This is the most fragile piece to work with in the whole process. Make sure you have some glasses or something and actually watch the individual pins while you reconnect the cable. I can't see so close, and didn't see what I was doing clearly. Consequently I broke the pins.

Adam Logan - Reply

Use a plastic tool or your fingernails to carefully disconnect the orange headphone jack cable. Be sure to pull  straight up on the connector, not the cable itself.
  • Use a plastic tool or your fingernails to carefully disconnect the orange headphone jack cable. Be sure to pull straight up on the connector, not the cable itself.

Be very careful disconnecting. In fact may want to leave connected. I "removed" the entire piece pins and all from the board and had to replace the logic board to fix. A $15 fix turned into $65. Happy to say got it fixed with a new board but this was a crucial step that cost me big time! Again leave headphone jack connected if at all possible!!

tigers27408 - Reply

DO NOT remove the ribbon cable unless absolutely necessary. I also removed the black female plug from the logic board by mistake. However, in my case I was able to plug it back in and it still works (phew!). Lucky. I might have destroyed some soldering, I don't know ... but it works.

Paul - Reply

At this point I damaged the motherboard irreversibly!!

This guide should be modified. You should not attempt this step. Either you replace the battery without disconnecting the ribbon. Or if you really want more room, you unscrew the other little board from the the metal half of the case.

Now I have to buy another ipod :-(

Guillaume Barreau - Reply

It is worth noting that the connector for the iPod 4th gen and the iPod photo/color are NOT compatible. The 4th gen has only 10 pins, whereas the photo/color have 12 pins.

Miles Raymond - Reply

I successfully installed the new battery without removing the ribbon cable.

Michael Caputi - Reply

Carefully disconnect the white battery connector from the logic board. Be sure to pull only on the connector itself and not on the cables.
  • Carefully disconnect the white battery connector from the logic board. Be sure to pull only on the connector itself and not on the cables.

If you are replacing the battery (and not reusing it) feel free to cut the red, white and black wires. If you leave .5 inch of cable, you can use the cables to assist the removal of the connector from the logic board. The connector has a small "bump" on the back side that will resist your efforts to remove it from the logic board. If you are aware of this, realize that it may take a degree of finesse to remove the connector. IT CAN BE STUBBORN!

noscw - Reply

I used the spudger to try to remove the battery connector. That was a mistake. A small part of the left edge of the connector broke off. The new battery's connector still connects, but it may cause problems later. Use a hemostat or small needlenose pliers and pull straight up carefully.

mihalik - Reply

I second that recommendation regarding small needle nose pliers. Much easier to apply sufficient torque as the battery connector sits in there quite tight.

Michael Caputi - Reply

Remove the 2 black T6 Torx screws from the left side of the logic board.
  • Remove the 2 black T6 Torx screws from the left side of the logic board.

These screws are unbelievably tiny. I highly recommend having a small saucer or ashtray to catch them so they won't get lost. If they go on the floor, it's all over but the crying.

Human - Reply

I would actually recommend unplugging the battery cable before removing the Torx screws. The screws will give additional leverage and stability, and help keep the thin daughterboard-like portion of the logic board from flexing too much.

E West - Reply

Use one hand to lift the hard drive up in order to access the battery beneath.
  • Use one hand to lift the hard drive up in order to access the battery beneath.

  • Carefully thread the battery cable around the end of the logic board. Be careful not to pull up on the logic board too much while freeing the battery cable.

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Lift the battery out of the front case by pulling it up by the battery leads.
  • Lift the battery out of the front case by pulling it up by the battery leads.

  • If necessary, grab the battery to pull it off the adhesive securing it to the front case.

  • It may be helpful to use a spudger to pry the battery up off its adhesive.

  • Lift the battery up and out of the front case.

This battery is stuck. The battery leads feel like they're going to snap... yup, one just did... before the battery comes free of the adhesive backing. No way to grab the battery.

gkehret - Reply

Quote from gkehret:

This battery is stuck. The battery leads feel like they're going to snap... yup, one just did... before the battery comes free of the adhesive backing. No way to grab the battery.

This battery is definitely hard to remove. We're usually don't recommend removing anything by pulling on the leads. This battery is an exception, since it's going straight to the recycle bin once it's removed. There's very little space on the side to insert a spudger, and doing so might result in damaging the case.

Miroslav Djuric - Reply

My leads snapped off as well. I wound up removing the hard drive and logic board in order to grip the battery firmly and pull it off. iFixit instructions for removing the logic board led me through the process no problem, but it could be worth adding a note to step 12.

seth9 - Reply

It is hard to remove the battery. I could only remove it by using the small plastic tool provided in my "ipod replacement battery pack". The good thing is that I did not have to remove the hard drive or the logic board. Now I have my iPod back!

kbusto - Reply

Is there a recommended adhesive to use when replacing the battery or forgo adhesive completely?

Quote from miro:

This battery is definitely hard to remove. We're usually don't recommend removing anything by pulling on the leads. This battery is an exception, since it's going straight to the recycle bin once it's removed. There's very little space on the side to insert a spudger, and doing so might result in damaging the case.

KFH - Reply

The battery replacement was very easy using these instructions. My only problem was separating the battery clip from the socket on the board.

dcorson - Reply

balta 1

Instructions up to step 12 very helpful, clear but for battery socket/connector. There is a small tab on the inside of the connector facing the battery. By gently pressing this tab with a 1.4 mm. flat s/driver blade - thru' cut-out in socket - the batt. connector will just ease out, no fuss. The battery of course requires some coaxing before it gives way. Overall, a great help as usual from the team @ iFixit *University*

balta - Reply

I got a surprise when I connected the battery and the iPod immediately went into the white screen of death (yes, I had activated the "hold" switch as directed in step one). I could think of nothing else to do other than finish putting it back together. Right now I'm letting the battery run down and am crossing my fingers that it will come up afterwards.

neilweinstock - Reply

Unit turned itself off after battery ran down, about 10-15 minutes total. Got very toasty during that time; I opened it up to give it some air. After it shut down, I plugged it back in and was thrilled to get the "charging" graphic. Some 15 minutes later (or so), the unit came alive and now seems fine. Success!

neilweinstock -

Lifting up the battery required a fair amount of force, enough so that I was afraid that I snapped the control board.

Stefan Lasiewski - Reply

The replacement went great, up and running again. The hardest part was reconnecting the headphone cable jack. I used tweezers to push the connector in, worked like a charm!!

daveojeda - Reply

Forgot to mention I bought the battery from iFixit direct fast shipping and worked perfectly!

daveojeda -

The leads snapped off, but there was some space to use the spudger - it is hard to get it out.

jonas - Reply

hi, i just ordered battery replacement for ipod photo, on the 1st week my ipod doing fine, until i forget to charge, i can't turn it on, i had my ipod plug on the AC adapter for 8 hours but it still can't turn on, did you have any idea about this?

adityahaferush - Reply

Followed the steps and have charged the phone with the new power pack for 8 hours. Am getting a bad battery screen now.

starrfiddler - Reply

Where can I get a battery!?

Mikey Lee - Reply

My battery was quite swollen and there is definitely some adhesive under it. A friend lent a second pair of hands at this point and it really helped. Success!

Michael Caputi - Reply

All of the extra comments were super helpful. Dull knife or metal bladed prying tool from ifixit tool kit to pry open. The battery should come out before torx screws, and go ahead and pull the wires on the battery if you are replacing it. I was all set to replace the battery and the click wheel or whole front cover, but sure enough my battery is good and swollen. The center button on the click wheel works great now.

Chad Roemer - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

462 other people completed this guide.

iRobot

Member since: 09/24/2009

1 Reputation

726 Guides authored

35 Comments

Biggest trouble I had was step one. I actually broke the edge off the large tool. A note somewhere else on this site recommended using a razor which work far more easily then the large blue tool. Common sense, your using a sharp razor, be careful!

As previously noted the screws are TINY, very easy to lose of you drop one.

I jockeyed the battery to get just a crack of space and then used the spluger tool to pry the battery free from the adhesive, very strong.

My IPOD is currently recharging for the first time in years. :o)

msdaly59 - Reply

I have a 4thG original ipod. This was a simple process and it was successfully completed. The ipod was able to be synced after 6 months of sitting in a drawer. The only issue so far is that the entire ipod gets warm to the touch while it's charging. Hopefully that will lessen after subsequent charges. The only bit of confusion in the instructions is the beginning step of inserting the ipod tool at the top. I thought I was trying to unlatch a tab there but there is none on top. Otherwise everything else was clear and exactly as described and pictured.

Nando - Reply

Broke the cute blue soft plastic tools that came with it. Used a credit card to open it up - worked miraculously well!!! Started up great!! Ooops - forgot the torque screws - opened it again.....closed it again. My iPod works again after years of hibernation!

Art Ikobo - Reply

piece of cake, good to have the old girl running again...even though I rarely use it anymore. Like motorcycles...nice to have the old ones running.

firus - Reply

Ifixit, you're awesome !!! Took me about 10 minutes and now I have my 18,000 tunes library back. Marley, LedZep and Pink Floyd are alive again. If a 60 year old can do it, anyone can. Iriemon. 10/17/2013

pcbeachbroker - Reply

My click wheel was acting up. Basically every button pushed behaved as if it was the center button. After reading a few of these guides, I guessed that maybe my battery was starting to swell and was putting pressure on the back of the wheel, causing it to malfunction. Bingo! New battery did the trick!

danaronen - Reply

Step one is the hardest for sure. Took me 30 minutes to get it to open the iPod because I was determined not to damage the plastic of my U2 limited edition(still in immaculate condition thanks to the hard case I've kept it in for the past 8 years).

Here's a tip - when you're opening the casing of the iPod you're actually prying the metal base away from the plastic faceplate. Once you get the first tab free it's all gravy. Thank you iFixit!

jamesmcortez - Reply

Great Tutorial. iPod 4th Gen working perfectly after +5 years working just as a paperweight.

Just a thing: it was easier for me to open it at first starting from one of the sides instead from the top, and then kept opening the whole case around.

Anyway, great tutorial and really easy to follow as it was actually detailed. Thanks

tomfratar - Reply

I have the 4th Gen U2 RED wheel 20gb iPod. Suffered from dead bulging battery. ordered the iFixit 4th gen battery replacement kit and 30 mins after receiving the kit I have a fully function iPod again. Ever single Apple product I have is still working perfectly with minimal effort. I could not be happier.

bberburb - Reply

It worked exactly as described. At first I had trouble finding a spot to insert the spudger tool but once I did I inserted used a small flat head screw driver to pop the tabs free. I started opening from the side because the case is more flexible there than the top as shown. I magnetized the torx screwdriver tip before I started so I wouldn't drop the screws. My old battery was swollen and I can see why my click wheel was not functioning properly. Over all this took me no more than 15 minutes to complete.

Bob A. October 14

rayers - Reply

Just finished installing new battery for my 4G iPod. It works great. However, I suggest that you redesign the plastic tools. They both broke as I was attempting to separate the case halves. One post here said that a credit card worked well. The extra buck for the tool kit could have been better applied to the S&H charges on my credit card. Thanks for the photo-enhanced instructions.

snowshoe2009 - Reply

blue tools broke so I used the little odd shaped tool in the nail clippers worked great. I had trouble getting the old battery cable off seemed like it was there too long.

cathymckitrick - Reply

I have a problem, everything seems to be okay with the battery, it's better and everything but, it won't charge with any charger, and whenever i connect it to my computer it shows it is charging but then it disappears, and it won't show up on iTunes. And also, it won't let me turn it off. this happened after i connected to my computer, everything was working fine before that.

Is there anything i could do ?

aldolara05 - Reply

Hi aldolara05,

Were you able to get the new battery charged? Because I am having the same problem...

Thx

Jack Wang -

hi! I need a bit of help with my ipod classic 4th generation, as the ribbon-cable socket that connects the hard drive to the ipod is not there. I have a socket that is like the old one, but came from a dvd writer. two questions: will it work with that? is it just a case of simple soldering to the logic board or is it much more complex than that? thanks,

Caden, age 12

cadeneast - Reply

Great article - battery was difficult to get out because of the adhesive on the rear but avoiding the edge of the Ipod/circuit board I used a small screwdriver to get an edge in to the battery and force it out. My 30gb Ipod is now back up and running after lying dead in my drawer for a couple of years. many thanks

Ray Fitz - Reply

My backlight is not working after replacing the battery. Everything else Is working fine. Any ideas?

napuli - Reply

Success! New battery is in and the iPod works and looks as good as new (minus the bulge from the old swollen battery). My iPod is a 20 GB 4th Gen. Thanks for the detailed guide! Two thumbs up (although one is slightly scratched and both are tired from prying open the iPod). I agree with others that getting the case open is the toughest part of this process (30 minutes trying to get it open - 5 minutes to swap battery and get case back on). I used a plastic credit card - Qdoba rewards card :) - to slide down and open the tabs once I was able to wedge it into the side.

Mike - Reply

All went quite easily, once got the case open. I only had two large iPod opening tools, and found the trick was to insert one quite quite forcefully (near the earphone jack as described) with the curved tip down towards the metal case and then it would stay in place - as it had inserted past the thickest part to the tip. Then I could easily slide around to the corner and insert the second opening tool on the long side. The adhesive holding the battery in place is very strong, but again using the opening tool I could insert from the side and underneath the battery and use it to lever the battery free.

The old battery was really swollen (twice as thick as the new replacement) which explained why the center button had become almost impossible to click, and of course, why the iPod had stopped working - it was unable to charge the battery.

As soon as I plugged the iPod into the charger it came to life, and now I have access to music that I have not listened to for 2 years.

paterson24 - Reply

I have an A1099, bought the battery replacement kit. Everything went OK. However after I closed back-cover. For whatever reasons the battery will not be charged. I have tried the direct connection to the power adapter, docking station, and cable connect to PC via USB. Nothing worked. Can someone give me some suggestions on what to do next?

Thx.

Jack Wang - Reply

I've read of some people having trouble after a battery replacement, because the new battery doesn't have a full charge coming from the factory and that model iPod shipped, or was 'born' with a firewire charger. And these people who were having trouble with their ipods had been using a usb charger or used the computer with its usb connection to charge.

It turns out that they should have been using a firewire charger, at least for that 1st full charge of the new battery, properly resetting every thing with whatever differs between usb and firewire output. A little hotter voltage or mAmp what ever the little difference was. One guy said his ipod had been problematic for years. Until he got his original firewire charger he had useed for years, his pod acted like it was brand new after he started charging with firewire again. He looked into why, and all he could find was others with the same situation.They had very picky ipods that didn't operate normally without a firewire charge! Mine was the same!

Mike McIntosh -

I've had my iPod since 2005 and I have music on it that I thought I'd lost for good. So thank you so much. So far so good.

Michael Fenton - Reply

My battery was swollen so badly that it was easier to start at the bottom when I removed the case. I used the blue plastic iPod opening tool that I purchased as part of the battery repair kit. Started where the case was already separating near the cable connection then carefully worked my way around the entire case. The hardest part for me was removing the battery cable cause my fingers are kind of "stubby". All in all an easy and quick fix for a very reasonable price - Thank you ifixit!

Doug Winterbauer - Reply

Just done, nice informations , clear , easy.

paologiudici - Reply

Brilliant, apart from cutting my finger when the spudger tool slipped - my fault, it all works great now. I was a numpty and forgot to replace the retention screws but once you've opened it once it's easy the 2nd time. My 9 year old iPod photo is now working fine again.

The battery had gotten so weak that it wouldn't even boot plugged in to power.

John Maxfield - Reply

The only problem for me was the ribbon connector for the battery, it was hard to tell if I plugged it back in correctly. Evidently I did because it is charging. The instructions were spotted on, made it quite simple.

Robert Forrest - Reply

I am 54 years old with (still) perfect eyesight more or less and an Ipod from 2004. This was a little trickier than I thought but I am

one stubborn man and am now in possession of all my lovely music which I've missed so much. The old battery was so swollen and bulbous it looked quite dangerous.

David May - Reply

Thanks! It worked quite smoothly.

Michael Caputi - Reply

Perfect! I thought my iPod was NG. After I found your website I thought I would give the battery replacement a try.. Great instructions . Got my music back.

Joseph Simanski - Reply

So, my new battery has a life of an hour to an hour and a half. Why is that? I can barely get through one album before it dies.

Brian Ashton - Reply

Could be a poor quality battery. The first one I bought of eBay was shocking, then I bought one from the ifixit store and it's been so much better.

Jack Eaton -

great tips! my old ipod is new now. Thank’s.

renatofpmello - Reply

This was a much easier repair than I imagined. As others have mentioned the hardest part was opening the case, after that it was fairly straight forward. The old battery had swollen which in turn was impeding the operation of the track wheel. Now with the new battery in place everything is back to how is should be. So worth it to do this repair.

paul ross - Reply

Surprisingely i was able to detach the Backcover by just using a simple creditcard. I sharpened the long side of the card with a knife to slide in better. I bend the backcover firmly by pressing it away from the front by using my thumbs - press away the plastic cover to receive a small slot (both hands needed). I inserted the creditcard into this small gap, moved it along a few times and the complete side was detachable at a glance. —>> The creditcard is long enough to press down all 5 plastic-hinges. Perfect sollution to me, try it. No scratches, no bending - easy peazy. Step 2-6 arent necessary with this solution. Sorry for my plain english. Greetings, Sören from Germany

Sören - Reply

Nice step by step instructions and got new battery installed no problem. Went to charge it and lit up like it had never been away. However when I started scrolling on the click wheel while charging it started whirring and rebooted. So I left it to charge bit now just showing the Apple logo and flashing while getting warm. Any ideas guys?

Richard Walker - Reply

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