Introduction
Vous pouvez installer des disques durs de jusqu'à 9,5 mm d'épaisseur.
What you need
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Avec vos doigts, écartez les deux clips de verrouillage de la batterie puis retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur.
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Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes identiques du capot de protection RAM.
Tip for new players - print this guide, then use Sello tape to tape the screws from each step on the picture. Keeps them all organised and easy to know which screws belong to which step when putting it all back together
Thanks a lot for this great advice. I followed it, and it turned out to be very useful and practical.
In regard to the incredible amount of TINY screws, get an Ice Cube Tray or something with AT LEAST 8 compartments, then, when taking out the screws, mark EACH compartment with the step # and how many screws that were taken out, and used for THAT STEP (such as Step # 3 = 4 of 4 screws. Label EACH compartment, and keep them in line of each step. When it comes time to put everything back together, just reverse your Ice Cube Tray, and follow the Steps in Reverse!
As far as marking each compartment, try these POST IT PENS!!!
http://www.staples.com/Post-it-Flag-Ball...
GOOD LUCK! Take your time, it's not as difficult as it seems!
JerseyJeepGurl
An ice cube tray is definitely the way to go!
This guide helped me to remove the keyboard on my MBP, but it doesn't take you further to take the keyboard apart. If you REALLY want to look inside the keyboard, you'll need to remove additional phillips screws (10), and carefully remove the inner plastic/clear layers inside the keyboard.
I did this to look for physical damage inside the keyboard and noticed that the black plastic? sheet was torn on my letter 'v', which was one of the keys not working. I did not see any physical sign anywhere else on the keyboard, though.
So, after pulling the defective keyboard away and installing the new one purchased from iFixit, putting everything back together is not too difficult, just reverse.
One thing, though: Check and double-check before you tighten the case screws to make sure your keyboard backlight is working. I noticed I had forgotten to plug it in, luckily for me before I put all the screws on the case.
To avoid losing any screws, print this guide and use clear tape to tape the screws next to the step. Use double-tape to avoid tearing or one of the tiny screws from falling out.
Good luck!
Thanks iFixit for helping me replace my MBP's keyboard!
Worked perfect on my 4,1 mbp. Took ~15 min.
I don't see a boost in speed... or is just me?
I used 500 GB 7200 RPM Seagate SATA Hard Drive model ST9500420AS.
(if has a G letter at the end (ASG) is the one with built in shock protection who conflict sometimes with the mac own G protection).
This guide was awesome. I used JerseyJeepGurl's suggestion and used an egg carton, numbering each cavity as a step in the guide. So for a step that had me remove 3 different kinds of screws, I had a cavity for each, numbered: 1a, 1b, 1c and wrote a,b,c on the guide itself next to each bullet point in the step. It was awesome.
I guess that before starting I overlooked what a T6 torx actually was. I started this process at 8pm and realized right away that I did not have a set that small and of course all stores were closing. Lowes actually had an awesome fine torx driver set for only 7 bucks!
So that you fixit.
Quote from tech4eleven:
This guide was awesome. I used JerseyJeepGurl's suggestion and used an egg carton, numbering each cavity as a step in the guide. So for a step that had me remove 3 different kinds of screws, I had a cavity for each, numbered: 1a, 1b, 1c and wrote a,b,c on the guide itself next to each bullet point in the step. It was awesome.
I guess that before starting I overlooked what a T6 torx actually was. I started this process at 8pm and realized right away that I did not have a set that small and of course all stores were closing. Lowes actually had an awesome fine torx driver set for only 7 bucks!
So that you fixit.
Thank you everybody for "thanking me" on the compartment advice! Also, just about ANY Auto parts store will have a set of Torx Screw drivers, in a handy little set, that is all together. Good luck everybody,,remember,TAKE YOUR TIME, BREATH, AND DON'T GET FRUSTRATED!!! (STEALING ADVICE FROM PEARL JAM,,BREATH,JUST BREATH),,,,AND YOU'LL BE ABLE TO DO IT YOURSELF!
JJG
Quote from JerseyJeepGurl:
In regard to the incredible amount of TINY screws, get an Ice Cube Tray or something with AT LEAST 8 compartments, then, when taking out the screws, mark EACH compartment with the step # and how many screws that were taken out, and used for THAT STEP (such as Step # 3 = 4 of 4 screws. Label EACH compartment, and keep them in line of each step. When it comes time to put everything back together, just reverse your Ice Cube Tray, and follow the Steps in Reverse!
As far as marking each compartment, try these POST IT PENS!!!
http://www.staples.com/Post-it-Flag-Ball...
GOOD LUCK! Take your time, it's not as difficult as it seems!
JerseyJeepGurl
Quote from Michael Fredrickson:
I get a piece of "corrugated" cardboard and draw an outline of the laptop and all the "compartments" that are accessed. When you take a screw out simply punch it threw top layer of the cardboard exactly where it goes. Multiple compartments - just draw another diagram on the cardboard. Voila!
I just finished replacing my hard drive following these instructions and they were perfect. The only minor complication involved the ribbon cable connecting to the sleep light and IR sensor connectors. The entire cable was tightly glued to the hard drive. But I got it loose with 10 minutes of gentle prying with a spudger.
To keep track of the screws I just sketched an outline of the bottom panel, taped the screws in the right places and numbered them with the step numbers.
I just used that Glad Press' N Seal. I just cut a 4 in piece, cut slits in it to about half way, Put the screws on there, and fold the pieces over the screws. You can number them, i just kept track of them. Also, you might not need that much, i just cut that much just to be safe.
I use magnet
I use the magnet that close the refigerator door.
The screws are put on the magnet, so it didnot fall from the table.
i am french so sorry for my english
Madoc -
Just another idea for a container for all the little screws: pillbox. I got one for about $1.00 at the store with 14 compartments.
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Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 2,8 mm dans le compartiment de la batterie à côté du loquet.
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Dévissez les quatre vis cruciformes de 3,2 mm sur le côté des ports de l'ordinateur.
"port side of the computer" should read "starboard side". It's on the right-hand side when the computer is positioned normally in front of you.
Port side as in I/O port side, as in the side that has the FireWire and ethernet ports. This is a MacBook, not a sailboat ;)
Maybe I'm too used to running flight simulators on my Macs. But to us sailors or pilots, it would perhaps be clearer if the instructions mentioned "I/O port side" as Andrew did above.
Honestly, it never crossed my mind that 'port' refered to in/out…
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Faites encore pivoter le MacBook de 90° et dévissez les quatre vis cruciformes de 3,2 mm sur le côté de l'ordinateur.
In my machine the screw closest to the power connector had a slightly thicker head, and would not sit flush, upon reassembly, unless it was returned to the same hole.
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Soulevez l'arrière du boîtier et faites passer vos doigts le long des côtés en détachant le boîtier au fur et à mesure. Après avoir détaché les côtés, vous devrez peut-être remuer le boîtier de haut en bas pour en détacher l'avant (il y a des clips en plastique cachés et il faut les déverrouiller).
I had already done this once and now have a larger SSD to put in and cannot get past this step as the back just will not pop off. In fact- the front comes off fine but the back, where you cannot get the spudger, is "glued" or wedged solid. I suspect that the rear screw tabs have jammed. :(
I would not rock the case up and back. There are 4 plastic connectors that need to come loose, start on the left side with a spudger about a quarter of the distance from the edge and pop them up from left to right, one by one.
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Déconnectez la nappe du pavé tactile et du clavier de la carte mère et décollez la bande adhésive si nécessaire.
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Ôtez le boîtier supérieur.
Kudos for this fantastic walk-through of replacing the hard drive. I just swapped in a new SSD and it was a piece of cake!
On Step 10, I tried just propping up the keyboard and leaving it connected to the logic board. It worked for a while but eventually the ribbon popped off. Luckily it wasn't damaged and it's super easy to replace.
Same happened to me. No damage here either. :-)
Since there is the ONE cable going from the top keyboard/touchpad assembly to the motherboard, you need to be careful lifting it up and removing it.
Start at the front of the laptop, using a spudger to widen the gap so you can see inside where the ribbon cable attaches.
When re-assembling, use a couple of spudgers to prop up the keyboard/touchpad assembly and hold it in place. Re-connect the cable, then starting from the rear, lower the assembly into place.
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Déconnectez la nappe orange du disque dur de la carte mère.
How do you reconnect the hard drive cable to the logic board?
I think this step can just as well be omitted.
Quote from fletchfoo4:
How do you reconnect the hard drive cable to the logic board?
Just plug it back in... Push on it, and it sort of clicks in.
Be very careful when removing the hard drive cable from the logic board. Even though I was very gentle the connector came away from the ribbon rendering the cable useless. A replacement cost me $70 here in the UK.
As Basiliscus says it would probably be better to omit this step as it is possible to remove the hard drive without disconnecting the cable from the logic board.
It's not necessery to remove this ribbon cable from the logic board as you have to remove the cable from your "old" harddrive anyway afterwards.
I managed to disconnect the long, narrow connector next to this one without realising. MacBook would not power on until I eventually realised it was loose and reconnected it.
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Utilisez un spudger pour décoller soigneusement l'adhésif fixant les connecteurs du voyant veille et le capteur infrarouge sur le haut du disque dur.
The default position of the sleep light and IR sensor connector assembly is directly over the hard drive breather hole on many replacement hard drives, including Hitachi Travelstar 7K500 and 5K250 models. Other brands also have breather holes in similar places. Be careful not to cover the hole with the adhesive portion of the connector tape, as this can interfere with proper operation of the drive. I was able to reinstall the cable twisted at a slight angle in order to keep the hole open.
That was a great hint, thanks!
It is important to reattach the ribbon cable very tight to the hard drive. I also had to put additional glue under one of the connectors. The first time there must have been a mechanical contact to the case which resulted in vibrations. At first I thought, that the new drive caused this but I opened the computer again and now the vibrations have completely vanished.
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Retirez les deux vis Torx argentées T6 et les protections en caoutchouc noir du côté droit du disque dur.
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Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 noires et les protections en caoutchouc noir du côté gauche du disque dur.
When re-attaching the upper case, you will see small plastic clips along the front edge which need to seat into receiving clips on the lower case front edge. It is these clips which sort of "popped" loose when removing the upper case. You need to apply firm pressure for these clips to reattach properly, and you will hear a click when they seat into the bottom.
I also do my work on a white background, with a one-foot long magnet at the edge of the table close to my body , this little screws jump like you would use to hold up knives in a kitchen. If you lose one screw you get to Buy a whole new set. Thank iFixit.com Your Awesome I like the 3 new books that came out in 12/2020
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Pour remonter votre appareil, veuillez suivre les étapes en sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, veuillez suivre les étapes en sens inverse.
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20 Comments
If your button to open mac is hard to use after you re-assembled the computer, check to see if the proper length screws were reinstalled. I had that problem and I switched the 2 screws. One was a tad longer. The longer one when screwed in, interferred with the button function.
Definitely NOT true for MY Mac. Both screws are absolutely identical. Still I had this issue. :-(
Turned out that if I screw them in real tight the issue will occur. If I turn back the screws about 180 degrees (i. e. if I loosen them) the problem disappears.
Brilliant article. I just replaced the original 120 GB HD with a Toshiba 500 GB HD after the original started to fail after nine years. It has lasted well and still does the job to take to a cafe so why not keep it going. Agree with the advice above to place the screws down in order. Also to not bother with step 11 if you can still disconnect the drive. And as above check that the breather hole is not covered. On the new Toshiba HDs the hole can be just at the place you would stick the ribbon back down. Thanks iFixit.
Thanks a lot for this detailed instructions. It took me far more than only 15 mins (as one of the fellow commenters wrote), more like 1.5 hrs, but I was very cautious not to cause any damage, and I sticked all the screws to the printout I made from this page.
I've just used this guide to remove the old hard drive and replace it with a solid state drive. Excellent step-by-step guide- many thanks.
I just did this with a MPB A1226 to replace the old 120GB Hdd with a fresh 480GB SSD - worked like a charm!
Great instructions. Definitely put all the screws in separate containers for each step. I also cloned the hard drive before I put it in so just turned it back on and I was up and running.
How does one clone the hard drive? A vinyl case came with the new SS hard drive, which I assume is to hold the (new or old??) hard drive for transfer of data? Or is it from some other use?
Thanks Lou Danzico
Hey Lou! Follow this guide to clone your old hard drive's information onto your new one.
You might also use CarbonCopyCloner (https://bombich.com/de) to clone your hadrdrive, a very good backup tool.
Sehr gute Anleitung!
Tip: Vorher mit CarbonCopyCloner ein Backup machen, dann neue SSD formatieren, zurückspielen, sicherheitshalber NVRAM zurücksetzen, fertig.
Der 9. Schritt ist etwas tricky, mit viel Gefühl von links oben nach rechts unten die Klammern lösen, indem man mit einem Nudger den Spalt zwischen Tastatur und Gehäuse entlangfährt.
Thanks, iRobot, and other contributors. I followed this guide a few years back to install an SSD. I had to do it again today to temporarily take out the drive to plug into another machine to fix some lost passwords. The DVD drive is broken, and this Macbook is too old to boot off USB, so taking out the drive was the only option. This is now a 17-year-old machine, still going strong, running up-to-date software through Debian Linux.
In case anybody reads this: My tip for keeping track of screws is to use a tiny ball of Blu-Tack to stick each screw close to where it came from. It doesn't work in all situations, like if you're taking screws out of a bottom plate, and then need to turn the laptop over to rest on that plate. (Sometimes you can work around this by sticking the screws nearby on the side of the case.) But it's very handy in many situations.
Years ago, I had to return/replace this type of a battery several times because of erratic behavior in the laptop. Suddenly I had one that lasted for 5 years before not taking any charge anymore. So, I'm going to order a new one hopefully without having to restart the return charade BECAUSE:
I observed that the battery's CONTACTs are unreliably INTERMITTENT. So far, it helped for a while moving it in and out in order to chafe the contacts' surfaces against each other.
moise - Reply