Introduction
It took a fair bit of detective work to figure out how to open and a lot of force to actually open. Once open it is just screws, no snap fingers.
Disclaimer: This guide was made during a Repair Cafe, so the pictures are not great.
What you need
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Don't forget to unplug it!
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Remove the drawer and any remaining fries.
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On the top side of the product there is a panel held in place by 6 very snappy snap fingers. I am not kidding, these are strong!
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When you work on one corner the others can snap back in place. To prevent this insert an opening tool or other objects in the gaps you created after lifting a corner.
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My metal spudger was actually bending under the force, this is normal.
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Remove 4 screws on top.
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Than just lift the top half of the casing. This doesn't take much force, as there are no more snap fingers.
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Be careful, there are still 2 connectors attached!
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Remove these two connectors
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After unscrewing the middle layer of the product, turn it upside down on top of the bottom part of the product.
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Be careful, there are still some cables connected to the bottom part.
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Unscrew some more screws (10x).
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With one hand hold down the fan blade to stop it from turning.
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With the other unscrew the nut that keeps the fan blade in. You can use pliers or an #10 hex driver to do this
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TURN CLOCKWISE to unscrew
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Now you can open the middle part of the housing, this requires little to no force.
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A thermal fuse should work like a piece of copper wire (electronically speaking) when not broken. It will have a very very small resistance between 0 and 1 OHM.
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A broken fuse will give an open loop (O.L. on most multimeters).
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Do NOT solder the fuse!
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I used the clips attached to a donor fuse to reattach to the cables. I did this by bending the clips out using cutting pliers and than bending them back using regular pliers.
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