Introduction
It took a fair bit of detective work to figure out how to open and a lot of force to actually open. Once open it is just screws, no snap fingers.
Disclaimer: This guide was made during a Repair Cafe, so the pictures are not great.
What you need
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Don't forget to unplug it!
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Remove the drawer and any remaining fries.
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On the top side of the product there is a panel held in place by 6 very snappy snap fingers. I am not kidding, these are strong!
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When you work on one corner the others can snap back in place. To prevent this insert an opening tool or other objects in the gaps you created after lifting a corner.
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My metal spudger was actually bending under the force, this is normal.
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Remove 4 screws on top.
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Than just lift the top half of the casing. This doesn't take much force, as there are no more snap fingers.
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Be careful, there are still 2 connectors attached!
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Remove these two connectors
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After unscrewing the middle layer of the product, turn it upside down on top of the bottom part of the product.
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Be careful, there are still some cables connected to the bottom part.
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Unscrew some more screws (10x).
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With one hand hold down the fan blade to stop it from turning.
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With the other unscrew the nut that keeps the fan blade in. You can use pliers or an #10 hex driver to do this
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TURN CLOCKWISE to unscrew
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Now you can open the middle part of the housing, this requires little to no force.
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A thermal fuse should work like a piece of copper wire (electronically speaking) when not broken. It will have a very very small resistance between 0 and 1 OHM.
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A broken fuse will give an open loop (O.L. on most multimeters).
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Do NOT solder the fuse!
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I used the clips attached to a donor fuse to reattach to the cables. I did this by bending the clips out using cutting pliers and than bending them back using regular pliers.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
One Comment
Thank you for this, I successfully managed to replace the blown thermal fuse (there were two!) in my air fryer. Not the same make as this it was branded as AGL and was exactly the same internally, apart from having two thermal fuses next to each other, instead of just the one showed here. Cost very little for two replacement fuses and a pack of metal crimps compared to the cost of a new air fryer.