PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1.67 GHz Hard Drive Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Want more storage capacity? Replace your hard drive with a higher capacity unit.

Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use a coin to turn the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

Edit Step 2 Upper Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 10 screws:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips in the battery compartment, on either side of the battery contacts.

    • Four 3 mm Phillips around the memory compartment.

    • Four 16 mm Phillips along the hinge.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Remove the memory compartment cover.

  • Remove the two 12 mm Phillips screws on the Aluminum bracket at the top of the memory compartment.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise so the power receptacle faces you.

  • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws along the edge of the lower case.

  • When replacing these screws, you must install them in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, then work your way toward the front of the computer.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Turn the computer 90 degrees clockwise so the hinge faces you.

  • Remove the lower 5 mm Phillips screw on each side of the hinge (two total).

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise so the ports face you.

  • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws along the edge of the lower case.

  • When replacing these screws, you must install them in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, then work your way toward the front of the computer. Also, be careful not to put the screws in the two holes on either side of the video out port.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Turn the computer over and open the display.

  • Remove the two 4.2 mm long, 1.5 mm hex screws at the top corners of the upper case (two total).

  • A T6 Torx driver will work, but repeated use will strip the screws.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Grasp the back corners of the upper case and pull up.

    • Do not pull the upper case off yet; you still need to disconnect the keyboard and trackpad cable.

  • Lift the back of the case up and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Rotate the upper case up and toward the screen, so that the upper case rests against it.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the amber tape securing the trackpad ribbon to the logic board.

  • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon from the logic board by pulling up on the connector.

  • Remove the upper case from the computer.

Edit Step 11 Hard Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 6 mm long silver Phillips screws from the retaining bracket on the left side of the optical drive.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the retaining bracket.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the large orange hard drive cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Lift the hard drive up by the right side and remove it from the computer.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the two silver Phillips screws and black rubber bumpers from either side of the hard drive (four sets of screws and bumpers total).

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • There is a black pad on one end of the hard drive that you should peel off and transfer to your new hard drive.

  • Lift the plastic shield off of the hard drive.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the hard drive cable from the hard drive using a spudger by gently loosening one side at a time. (Be careful not to pry to hard or you may bend the pins.) You may need to remove a piece of orange tape attaching the ribbon cable to the hard drive.

  • This is a bit tricky. If you bend the pins, do your best to straighten them using the hard drive cable as a guide.

  • If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1.67 GHz device page.

Required Tools

Coin

$2.95 · 7 In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Easy enough to follow. The clips at the front of the drive bay are rather delicate and tricky to re-install properly. The spudger helped with that too.

jnewsom22, · Reply

I had 7mm screws here instead of 12mm. Did without them till later.

gepkes, · Reply

I have an Aluminum PowerBook G4 1.67Ghz since 2006.

3/4 (from bottom to top) of the LCD becomes either black or is jumbled each time I turn on the MAC or move the screen. I need to press the LCD at several locations in order for this problem to go.... any advice ?

Polanskiman, · Reply

re: Polanskiman; this is usually caused by a loose ribbon connector on the rear of the LCD. Open up the display, remove the LCD, lay flat and re-connect the ribbon plug.

aaiverson, · Reply

in my g4 there is also a big transparent ribbon (for keyboard?), to the right of the amber trackpad ribbon, that i disconnected before removing case cover.

ykuwabara, · Reply

re: ykuwabara; this is due to the differences between the Model A1095 (yours) and the newer A1138 (illustrated here). The A1138 combines the keyboard and trackpad signals into one cable.

aaiverson, · Reply

one of the (two, in my g4) HD bracket screws was stripped when the original HD was installed. the screw was soft, and the X was nearly an O. I drilled down the screw head with a dremel and was able to lift off the bracket. The headless screw unscrewed with pliers -- this left the thread intact though the screw wasn't usable. I had leftovers from a complete MacBook screw set which i'd gotten from iFixit for another machine. And one of them fit well enough.

On this site and others, I found a couple of other methods for deaing with stripped screws:

1. glue another screw head-to-head to the stripped one, using J-B Weld, then use plier to unscrew both. I didn't want to wait 6 hours for the glue to set so I didn't try this.

2. using a cutter wheel on a dremel, cut a straight ridge into the screw head and use a regular screwdriver to undo the screw. I tried this, but because the screw is embedded flush to the surface, I would have had to cut a ridge into the bracket as well.

3. if the screw were not aluminum (=so soft) i would have tried using very heavy downward force when unscrewing, to get the screw even slightly loosened, then finishing with pliers and an exacto or swiss army knife.

ykuwabara, · Reply

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