Introduction

Use this guide to replace a damaged front bezel.

Image 1/1: Lift the battery out of the computer.
  • Use a coin to turn the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Image 1/1: Slide the memory door away from the memory compartment.
  • Remove the four Phillips screws from the memory door.

  • Slide the memory door away from the memory compartment.

Do you actually need to remove any of the screws on the underneath if you're just replacing a PRAM battery, or a hard drive? Aren't those only required if you're taking the whole logic board out?

Tom Anderson - Reply

Image 1/1: Two 3 mm Phillips in the battery compartment, on either side of the battery contacts.
  • Remove the following 8 screws:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips in the battery compartment, on either side of the battery contacts.

    • Two 9 mm Phillips on either side of the memory compartment.

    • Four 16 mm Phillips along the hinge.

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Image 1/1: Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.
  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise, so that the power receptacle faces you.

  • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.

  • When replacing these screws, you must place each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

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Image 1/1: Remove the bottom 5 mm Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two total).
  • Turn the computer 90 degrees clockwise so that the hinge faces you.

  • Remove the bottom 5 mm Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two total).

The two "bottom" 5mm philips screws here are the ones closest to the display. (as shown in the image)

seos - Reply

"Bottom" assumes you have the computer upside down. If you can see the Apple on the front, then remove the two "top" screws...

Kevin - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.
  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise, so that the ports face you.

  • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.

  • When replacing these screws, you must place each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

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Image 1/1: Remove the 4.2 mm 1/16"  H 1.5 hex screws in either corner, next to the display (a T6 Torx driver will also do the job nicely).
  • Turn the computer over and open the display.

  • Remove the 4.2 mm 1/16" H 1.5 hex screws in either corner, next to the display (a T6 Torx driver will also do the job nicely).

I found that the T6 was too small but a T7 worked, with a little push downward to make it sit inside the hex head.

dougcabot - Reply

Image 1/1: Grasp the back corners of the upper case and pull up, disengaging hidden tabs on the sides. Do not pull the upper case off yet; you still need to free tabs in the front of the case.
  • This step covers the hardest part to get inside this computer. Take a deep breath and think happy thoughts.

  • Grasp the back corners of the upper case and pull up, disengaging hidden tabs on the sides. Do not pull the upper case off yet; you still need to free tabs in the front of the case.

  • The seam is beneath the plastic molding on the upper case.

I've opened the G4 four times. The official Apple way outlined above is vastly superior to the paper clip method. When you lower the screen side of the deck, a little bit of pressure toward you will easily release the clips. Definitely begin with the back (screen side) of the deck where you just remove the two T-6 screws.

wcwirla - Reply

Image 1/1: Pry up the left side of the upper case slightly with your hand and wedge a spudger into the seam between the upper case and lower case.
  • There is one latch that stops you from pulling the upper case right off, located on the left side of the optical drive slit. To free the upper case, you will be pulling a thin metal latch toward you, freeing it from the clasp holding it in place.

  • Pry up the left side of the upper case slightly with your hand and wedge a spudger into the seam between the upper case and lower case.

  • Leave the tool in place applying pressure to the upper case for the next step.

This could really use a diagram to show exactly how the clip is structured. I didn't realize the clip was between the front of the case and the back support it attaches to, and it needs to be pried off that back support. (Evil Apple design - would it really hurt to have a screw underneath?). Overall these guides are fantastic! I just replaced a hard drive, and it worked great. And I LOVE the screw guide at the back - brilliant idea!

isonno - Reply

Apple official disassembly guide suggests instead to lift the upper case from the back up to 45 degrees. Then while lowering it back gently wiggle the upper case and it does disengage the latches. No tools required, no risk of bending the case.

John - Reply

This method worked perfectly for me. Lift at 45 degree angle and wiggle as slowly lower and it popped right off.

th3mamma -

Image 1/1: Do not yank the upper case off as soon as you free the clasp. The case is attached to the logic board via two ribbon cables.
  • Place enough pressure on the upper case to allow you to slide a tool just within the seam between upper case and lower case as shown in the picture. A dentist's hook, push pin, or similar tool will work.

  • Do not yank the upper case off as soon as you free the clasp. The case is attached to the logic board via two ribbon cables.

  • Delicately slip the tip of your tool behind the silver metal latch and pull it forward while pulling up on the case. This may take some effort.

  • Alternatively, you can free the clasp with a small flathead screwdriver through the CD slot. The clasp is 1-3/16 in (3cm) from the left side of the slot. Use the screwdriver to lift out (or press back) the felt lining; then use the screwdriver to pull the clasp (shiny metal) forward to free it from the catch behind it (dull metal).

I was able to easily release the latch by putting the spudger in the optical drive slot, and gently prying up. You can see the three holes where the upper case clips in above the drive, and the clips are accessible through those holes from the optical drive slot.

ryan64 - Reply

"Forward" (step 10) means toward the front. I was not able to release the latch this way. However, I did eventually release all three latches at once by very slightly lifting the rear of the cover and pressing the cover back toward the screen.

It is not necessary to remove the trackpad and keyboard cables (steps 12, 13, and 14) to replace the hard drive.

Pomo - Reply

Quote from Pomo:

"Forward" (step 10) means toward the front. I was not able to release the latch this way. However, I did eveIt is not necessary to remove the trackpad and keyboard cables (steps 12, 13, and 14) to replace the hard drive.

I find it useful to use a big rubber band to hold the keyboard up--put it around the keyboard and display.

colleenthompson - Reply

I've done several of these before, but today it was a bear to accomplish. I finally did it by inserting a dental pick through the optical slot and pulling forward to release the clip. In case it will help someone else, pictures of the clip are at Devil Clip.

colleenthompson - Reply

I did not find any clip to disengage to remove the top piece. I would like to have seen a picture of the clip after the the top was separated.

Oh, well. This guide is probably not much use to anyone any more.

Chrissy - Reply

Image 1/1: Rotate the upper case up and toward the screen, so that the upper case rests against it.
  • Lift the back of the case up and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

  • Rotate the upper case up and toward the screen, so that the upper case rests against it.

The top assembly for the A1138 model (1.67MHZ high res) does not have two ribbon cables to connect to the logic board as pictured.

Mike - Reply

Image 1/1: Disconnect the trackpad ribbon from the logic board.
  • Remove the orange tape securing the trackpad ribbon to the logic board.

  • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon from the logic board.

If you are just replacing a hard drive, you do not need to remove either the trackpad or the keyboard cables! They will not be in the way at all. Save yourself a headache.

dougcabot - Reply

I agree - removing the cables is not necessary. I didn't even have a keyboard cable on my machine.

macbaen - Reply

i agree, too:

steps 12 to 14 are NOT necessary for replacing the harddrive!

neither are 17 and 18!

instead:

after 10 continue with step 15.

instead of 17 and 18: free the hd carefully

from the case disconnect the hard drive cable from the hard drive.

valid - Reply

Image 1/1: 1) With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).
  • This is a diagram of the keyboard ribbon clamp connector you will disconnect in the next step.

  • 1) With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).

  • 2) After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.

Be very careful! The clasps holding the black strip are extremely fragile and can snap very easily.

ChrisT4 - Reply

Quote from ChrisT4:

Be very careful! The clasps holding the black strip are extremely fragile and can snap very easily.

In fact it is possible to get to your hard drive and replace it without having to detach this ribbon at all and I would advise that if all you are doing is replacing your hard drive then skip this step.

ChrisT4 - Reply

My laptop did not have the big gray keyboard ribbon but a short white one with a blue stripe at the end. Anyone knows if this is just a different setup?

afido - Reply

my g, 15", 1.5Ghz pbk didn't have this cable at all. It's short white kbd cable attached to the trackpad, and it's orange ribbon cable (only) attached to the logic board as in step 12. lucky me.

gogreens - Reply

Yes, the note about skipping this step should be up there, front and center. I followed this step and broke the bit of plastic. Now it's re-fastened with a piece of electrical tape, but I am annoyed because it was totally unnecessary to do that. How do we edit the front page to at least say "OPTIONAL" for this step?

Focus Fusion Society - Reply

There should be a note on this to say this step is OPTIONAL. I followed instructions as written, broke the little plastic piece, and have taped it back together with electrical tape. But after replacing the hard drive, I see it was totally unnecessary to take this step. It's a high risk step, people should be warned.

Focus Fusion Society - Reply

the diagram is a bit confusing, and the text is a bit confusing for non english speakers. when it said pull up a small amount, i thought you have to try and lift it from the motherboard. all you have to do is move the black plastic bit towards the screen with your fingernails and the broad thing plastic keyboard cable comes off.

Kiureli - Reply

Image 1/1: The black piece is very fragile and easily broken. Use care when separating it from the main socket.
  • Loosen the keyboard ribbon clamp by pushing the thin black piece toward the screen, using the tips of your fingers.

  • The black piece is very fragile and easily broken. Use care when separating it from the main socket.

  • Slide the grey keyboard ribbon out of the loosened connector.

  • Remove the upper case from the computer.

My machine didn't have a keyboard ribbon.

macbaen - Reply

Watch this step carefully! The release mechanism pushes back slightly, parallel with the surface of the logic board. You may want to gently use a sparger rather than your thumbs if you have big fingers. This is a very delicate connector. Work one side slightly then the other. The good news is that it does not offer any resistance.

wcwirla -

Image 1/1: Close the display and turn the hinge side of the computer to face you.
  • If you have already removed the hard drive or optical drive, your computer may differ slightly from the images in this section. These parts do not affect this procedure.

  • Close the display and turn the hinge side of the computer to face you.

  • Remove the remaining Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

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Image 1/1: Use a spudger to pry the bluetooth board from the gap between the battery housing and front of the lower case.
  • Open the computer with the display facing you.

  • Use a spudger to pry the bluetooth board from the gap between the battery housing and front of the lower case.

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Image 1/1: Deroute the bluetooth antenna cable along the left edge of the computer, removing tape as necessary.
  • Disconnect the bluetooth antenna cable from the bluetooth board.

  • Deroute the bluetooth antenna cable along the left edge of the computer, removing tape as necessary.

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Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the large orange Airport ribbon from the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Disconnect the Airport antenna cable at the black connector, making sure you pull only on the black rubber portion of the connector.
  • Pull the Airport ribbon cable up in order to access the black Airport antenna connector.

  • Disconnect the Airport antenna cable at the black connector, making sure you pull only on the black rubber portion of the connector.

my airport antenna cable has no connector and it doesn't run under the Airport ribbon cable, but instead runs under the PCMCIA card slot to god knows where. urgh, am wondering if I'm following the right guide for my g4, 15: 1.5Ghz Pwrbk.

gogreens - Reply

It WAS the right guide, but my machine was missing an Airport cable connector, so I had to remove a half-dozen screws and a nut, loosening some black plastic that was screwed under the modem card, allowing access to remove the PCMCIA receptor (tricky getting it unhooked from the card ejector button), then removing the Airport card in order to unplug the cable.

gogreens - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two pieces of orange tape covering the display data cable and disconnect the cable from the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Remove the T8 Torx screw closer to the display on either side of the hinge (two screws total).
  • Make sure you've freed up all four cables attached to the display assembly, and will pull away easily with the rest of the display.

  • Remove the T8 Torx screw closer to the display on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

bluetooth cable and airport cable pass under other bundle of cables between 0624 and N47822

Denis - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the longer T8 Torx screw remaining on either hinge (two screws total).
  • Be sure to support the display with one hand while removing the final two screws.

  • Remove the longer T8 Torx screw remaining on either hinge (two screws total).

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift the display off.

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Image 1/2: A T6 Torx screwdriver works just fine. Image 2/2: A T6 Torx screwdriver works just fine.
  • Remove the two 11 mm X 1.5 mm hex screws near the lower left and right corners of the display.

  • A T6 Torx screwdriver works just fine.

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Image 1/1: '''Do not''' insert the spudger between the plastic rim of the rear display bezel and the aluminum rear display bezel plate.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the front display bezel and the plastic rim attached to the rear bezel near the lower left corner of the display.

  • Do not insert the spudger between the plastic rim of the rear display bezel and the aluminum rear display bezel plate.

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Image 1/2: Rotate the spudger away from yourself to pry the rear display bezel off the aluminum tabs on the front display bezel. Image 2/2: Work your way down the side of the display until the rear display bezel has been separated from the front display bezel.
  • With your spudger still inserted under the front display bezel, run it around the lower left corner of the display.

  • Rotate the spudger away from yourself to pry the rear display bezel off the aluminum tabs on the front display bezel.

  • Work your way down the side of the display until the rear display bezel has been separated from the front display bezel.

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Image 1/1: Twist the spudger to unclip the rear bezel from the clutch cover.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the rear display bezel and the clutch cover.

  • Twist the spudger to unclip the rear bezel from the clutch cover.

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Image 1/2: Use your spudger to pry the plastic retaining clips on the rear display bezel over the raised aluminum tabs on the front display bezel. Image 2/2: At this point, the clips on the left and right edges of the rear display bezel should be free from the raised aluminum tabs on the front display bezel. If they are not, use a spudger to pry them past the front display bezel.
  • Repeat the previous steps to separate the right side of the rear display bezel from the display.

  • Use your spudger to pry the plastic retaining clips on the rear display bezel over the raised aluminum tabs on the front display bezel.

  • At this point, the clips on the left and right edges of the rear display bezel should be free from the raised aluminum tabs on the front display bezel. If they are not, use a spudger to pry them past the front display bezel.

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Image 1/3: Rotate the rear display bezel toward yourself and lay it flat on the table. Image 2/3: Rotate the rear display bezel toward yourself and lay it flat on the table. Image 3/3: Rotate the rear display bezel toward yourself and lay it flat on the table.
  • Slightly lift the lower edge of the rear display bezel and push it toward the top edge of the display, releasing the clips along the top edge of the rear display bezel.

  • Rotate the rear display bezel toward yourself and lay it flat on the table.

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift the antenna board out of the clutch cover.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel back the three edges of the antenna board cover and remove it from over the antenna board.

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Image 1/2: The black antenna connects near the center of the antenna board. Image 2/2: The black antenna connects near the center of the antenna board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up off the antenna board.

  • The black antenna connects near the center of the antenna board.

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Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the piece of foil tape securing the display data cable to the LCD frame. Image 2/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the piece of foil tape securing the display data cable to the LCD frame.
  • If necessary, remove the pieces of tape covering the two inverter leads.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the piece of foil tape securing the display data cable to the LCD frame.

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Image 1/2: Pull the display data cable connector away from its socket to disconnect it from the LCD. Image 2/2: Pull the display data cable connector away from its socket to disconnect it from the LCD.
  • If necessary, remove the piece of tape covering the display data cable connector.

  • Pull the display data cable connector away from its socket to disconnect it from the LCD.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two black Phillips screws from either side of the display (four screws total).

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four black Phillips screws along the top edge of the display.

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Image 1/2: Use a spudger to raise the end of the inverter out from the clutch cover. Image 2/2: Lift the inverter enough to access both cable connectors.
  • The inverter is an extremely thin circuit board that is very delicate and easily cracked. Take care when handling.

  • Use a spudger to raise the end of the inverter out from the clutch cover.

  • Lift the inverter enough to access both cable connectors.

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Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the inverter cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the inverter board.

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Image 1/2: Lift the front bezel off the LCD enough to insert the flat end of a spudger between the metal LCD frame and the front display bezel. Image 2/2: Trying to insert your spudger between the LCD glass and the metal LCD frame will surely damage your LCD.
  • Flip your display over so the front bezel is facing up.

  • Lift the front bezel off the LCD enough to insert the flat end of a spudger between the metal LCD frame and the front display bezel.

  • Trying to insert your spudger between the LCD glass and the metal LCD frame will surely damage your LCD.

  • Run your spudger along the lower edge of the front display bezel to separate the adhesive from the LCD frame.

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Image 1/1:
  • Pull the LCD toward the top edge of the front display bezel, minding any cables that may get caught.

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Image 1/1: Disconnect the inverter cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the inverter board.
  • If necessary, lift the inverter out from the clutch cover.

  • Disconnect the inverter cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the inverter board.

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Image 1/2: Lift the LCD retaining bracket off the front display bezel. Image 2/2: Some machines do not have this bracket. If your machine is missing the bracket, remove the five screws and proceed to the next step.
  • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the LCD retaining bracket to the front display bezel.

  • Lift the LCD retaining bracket off the front display bezel.

  • Some machines do not have this bracket. If your machine is missing the bracket, remove the five screws and proceed to the next step.

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Image 1/3: Use your thumbs to push the clutch cover away from the clutch hinges. Image 2/3: While pressing with your thumbs, rotate the clutch cover toward yourself about its long edge to pop it off the clutch hinge. Image 3/3: It may be necessary to wiggle the clutch cover while pressing it away from the clutch hinges to release the retaining clips.
  • The clutch cover is constructed from aluminum and is held on to the clutch hinges with metal clips that require a good deal of force to remove. Proceed with caution.

  • Use your thumbs to push the clutch cover away from the clutch hinges.

  • While pressing with your thumbs, rotate the clutch cover toward yourself about its long edge to pop it off the clutch hinge.

  • It may be necessary to wiggle the clutch cover while pressing it away from the clutch hinges to release the retaining clips.

  • Repeat this process for the other side of the clutch cover. Once the clutch cover is completely free from the clutch hinges, lift it off the front display bezel.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • De-route the inverter and display data cables from the clutch hinges and set them aside.

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Image 1/2: Remove the right clutch hinge and set it aside. Image 2/2: Remove the right clutch hinge and set it aside.
  • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the right clutch hinge to the front display bezel.

  • Remove the right clutch hinge and set it aside.

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Image 1/2: Remove the left clutch hinge and set it aside. Image 2/2: Remove the left clutch hinge and set it aside.
  • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the left clutch hinge to the front bezel.

  • Remove the left clutch hinge and set it aside.

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Image 1/1:
  • Front bezel remains.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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