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Introduction

If the steam ironing station makes heating noises (boiling water) but does not produce any steam, it may be due to a faulty solenoid valve coil. The price of the valve was 40 € in September 2018 plus shipping. Unfortunately I could not receive the coil individually.

  1. Pull out the plug. If necessary, allow the device to cool down for 10 minutes. Remove the water tank. Place the iron on a suitable surface.
    • Pull out the plug. If necessary, allow the device to cool down for 10 minutes. Remove the water tank. Place the iron on a suitable surface.

  2. Place a suitable container to catch the water.
    • Place a suitable container to catch the water.

    • Unscrew the stopper plug counterclockwise and set it aside.

  3. Turn the device upside down. Use a long screwdriver to remove 6 Torx # 15 screws Remove 2 screws with a Philips # 1 screwdriver
    • Turn the device upside down.

    • Use a long screwdriver to remove 6 Torx # 15 screws

    • Remove 2 screws with a Philips # 1 screwdriver

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  5. Place the unit with the bottom facing downwards. Carefully lift the upper part. The keyboard in the upper part is connected by a cable harness to the motherboard. Grab the corresponding plug on both sides and remove them carefully. Remove the clear hose between the water tank and the pump on the pump side. To do this, grasp under the lower edge of the hose and pull up with bending or rotating movements.
    • Place the unit with the bottom facing downwards. Carefully lift the upper part.

    • The keyboard in the upper part is connected by a cable harness to the motherboard. Grab the corresponding plug on both sides and remove them carefully.

    • Remove the clear hose between the water tank and the pump on the pump side. To do this, grasp under the lower edge of the hose and pull up with bending or rotating movements.

    • The upper part can now be put aside.

  6. Remove the rubber protection cap from the cable lug of the conductor. Disconnect both cables from the spool. To do this, use a pointed object (eg a small screwdriver) to push the lock of the cable lug outwards, and at the same time pulling the cable lug away from the valve.
    • Remove the rubber protection cap from the cable lug of the conductor.

    • Disconnect both cables from the spool. To do this, use a pointed object (eg a small screwdriver) to push the lock of the cable lug outwards, and at the same time pulling the cable lug away from the valve.

    • Use a multimeter to measure the resistance between the two contacts. It should (at least briefly) be at 30 ohms. If the resistance is infinite, the coil is defective and needs to be replaced.

    • I could not get the coil individually. The complete valve was available here: https://shop.euras.com/detailsseite_ma.p... In the comments Maxim is showing a reasonable priced source.

  7. In order to disassemble the coil the valve must be turned approximately 30° counterclockwise. Replacing the whole valve doesn't make a lot of sense here, because the pressure hoses are partly glued together or are fixed in place with clamping rings. Remove 2 Phillips screws #1 to give the hose connected to the iron more play.
    • In order to disassemble the coil the valve must be turned approximately 30° counterclockwise. Replacing the whole valve doesn't make a lot of sense here, because the pressure hoses are partly glued together or are fixed in place with clamping rings.

    • Remove 2 Phillips screws #1 to give the hose connected to the iron more play.

    • Pull off the cable lug of the heat sensor, while pushing the pawl outwards.

    • Grab the whole valve and turn it counterclockwise until the coil is able to squeeze past the black pressure hose. You may need pliers.

    • Open the fixing nut turning a wrench counterclockwise and pull off the coil.

    • Assembly is done by following the steps in reverse order.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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John Maier

Member since: 08/29/2017

421 Reputation

3 Guides authored

8 Comments

Vielen Dank für die tolle Einleitung! Leider sind wir von diesem Problem auch betroffen. Wollte kurz fragen ob Sie die Magnetventilspule irgendwo noch gefunden haben?

Kann man eventuell dieses nutzen? Das Modell 9640 ist nicht unter “Geeignet Für“ aufgelistet, aber ich denke nicht dass die für jedes Modell ein anderes Ventil nutzen.

https://www.fiyo.de/philips-ventil-quadr...

Kemal Zafer - Reply

Hallo,

Unter Schritt 5 habe ich einen Link angegeben, wo ich das Ventil bekommen habe. Es ist von Jiayin, mit “JYZ-5” beschriftet und hat eine Leistung von 17 Watt.

Unter Ihrem Link findet sich ein “JYZ-4P” von Jiayin mit 12 Watt Leistung.

Optisch scheinen sie baugleich, ob der Leistungsunterschied relevant ist kann ich leider nicht sagen.

Bitte rückmelden, falls es funktioniert hat. Der Preisunterschied ist deutlich.

John Maier -

Hallo,

besten Dank für diese Anleitung. Mein Philips GC9622 hatte ebenfalls eine defekte Magnetventilspule. Knapp 3 Jahre nach dem Kauf. Nach dem Austausch der Spule kommt wieder Dampf. Mal sehen wie lange diese Spule hält.

Ich habe hier https://www.ersatzteileshop.de/ventil-42... das original Ersatzteil für knapp 25€ gefunden (31€ mit Versand).

Besten Dank und Viele Grüße

Maxim

Maxim - Reply

Danke für die Rückmeldung.

John

John Maier -

Hallo ich habe die Magnetventilspule gewechselt und zusammen gebaut.

jetzt leuchten bei mir alle drei Lichter hintereinander. Und es reagiert nicht. Was soll ich jetzt machen

peja_17 - Reply

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