Introduction

The toughest part with this task is the separation of the outer shell and the inner workings. The two tabs that hold it together are hard to locate and separate. They do require a lot of force to actually get separated.

  1. Here is the Philips Sonicare handle HX9340 that no longer holds a charge
    • Here is the Philips Sonicare handle HX9340 that no longer holds a charge

    • This is the bottom endcap that requires removal.

    • A few layers of cardboard gets wrapped around the handle to protect it from any marring or other damage.

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  2. Using a pair of pliers to apply some pressure round the handle. The best place to start is the wider part of the rectangular base and about 1/2" to 3/4" from the bottom
    • Using a pair of pliers to apply some pressure round the handle. The best place to start is the wider part of the rectangular base and about 1/2" to 3/4" from the bottom

    • Continue to apply pressures around the whole base of the the handle moving to each side of the rectangular base.

    • It may take a few complete rotations to finally open up the gap between base and handle.

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    • Once the gap opens up, utilize a small flathead screwdriver to insert it into the gap to widen it.

    • Endcap coming out of the handle. Once the gasket will become completely visible

    • the endcap can be removed.

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    • Here is the endcap showuing the tabs that hold it securely in place once instered

    • There will be two plastic tabs that hold the inner workings to the outside handle. These are hard to reach and not easy to see.

    • Using a long small flathead screwdriver (or similar tool) to find those tabs is the difficult part on this job.

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    • Once the tabs have been properly located, insert one tool on each side to loosen compress the base and apply downward pressure on the outer handle. For this the top end of the handle needs to rest against a solid base. It does require a considerable amount of downward force to accomplish this.

    • With the tabs loosened and the handle opushed downward, the inner workings of the toothbrush will loosen and pop out of the handle.

    • Remove the mechanics out of the handle.

    I found I had to use two very thin (almost sharpened) flat screwdrivers to get between the taps and the outer handle. And then push down the outer handle. It's no use just pushing the inner base down.

    Geos Yannis - Reply

    I found I had to use two very thin (almost sharpened) flat screwdrivers to get between the taps and the outer handle, to push them towards the center (i.e. each other), so that they unlock from their recess in the outer handle. And then push down the outer handle to slide out the inner workings. It's no use just pushing the inner base down.

    Geos Yannis - Reply

    • Remove the rubber protectors from the PCB side

    • as well as the battery.

    • Here is the battery to be replaced. Sanyo part number 4235 010 13068

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    • There are three places that will have to be desoldered.

      • Positive battery contact

      • Negative battery contact

      • and a jumper

    • For the jumper the only thing required is to remove the solder between the pads.

    • Apply some flux to the jumper. The pliers will help to stabilize the PCB during soldering. any other means to hold it steady can be used.

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    • Using a soldering iron, remove the solder bridge between the jumper pads.

    • Using flux and desoldering braid remove the solder from the negative tab of the battery.

    • Solder bridge from jumper cleaned

    • Negative battery tab unsoldered from PCB

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    • Apply flux to the positive contact of the basttery on the PCB (Incidental finding is a SMD fuse F1 on this PCB)

    • Using desoldering braid unsolder the positive contact from the PCB.

    • Apply some gentle pressure with a small tool to remove the battery.

    • The battery should remove easily. If it does not, double check the battery contacts on the PCB to ensure they are not still connected somewhere. Another going over with the soldering iron may be required to complete that task.

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    • Battery removed from the PCB and the solder pads on the PCB are now clearly visible

    • In an attempt to determine the type off battery the red plastic covering was removed. The battery is a 3.7V lithium-ion battery that measures approximately (rounded) 14mmX49mm. Roughly the size of a AA battery.

    • The groove on the battery is always on the positive end of the battery.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

12 other people completed this guide.

oldturkey03

Member since: 09/29/2010

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16 Comments

This has helped me a lot and i used it as a base for my fixit tutorial. Thank you!

moritz - Reply

Hallo moritz, bitte tausche in deiner Anleitung die Sprache in Englisch da jetzt die Deutsche Anleitung in Englisch geschrieben ist.

Claes -

Nach dem wechsel der Batterie leuchten alle Lampen, aber die Bürste gibt keine Vibrationen ab. Wo ist der fehler? Hatte jemand dieses Problem?

After replacement of the akku all lamps are flashing but there is no function of the vibration-module. anyone knows this problem?

matze - Reply

Thanks for information. This guide leads to success. *Thumbs up* My Sonicare is back at work now. :-)

Stephan Müller - Reply

Really useful.

Geordi La Forge - Reply

It’s very helpful, I like it very much!!!

I just curious why the jumper have to be desoldered, is this jumper will limit the charge counter?

Thacker - Reply

Great guide, just needed to find out how to open the unit. Found that my problem was a loose screw failing to hold the metal mounting post for the brush head. Had contacted Philips who declined to help with repair but offered a 20% discount code for me to buy from their site. On there site I found my 2.5yr old Philips Sonicare DiamondClean Electric Toothbrush selling for £299.00 before discount and postage! Thanks Philips for trying to get a good portion of my pension this month. Thanks to ifixit and the writer of this guide for helping me not leave that much of my pension with Philips.Great to be able to take control of the situation and repair my own equipment!!!!

Jim dunne - Reply

@ifixitjdunne1 Hey Jim, you are welcome. Glad we could help you save some money. :-)

oldturkey03 -

You have to resolder the jumper when done else it doesn’t work, I presume its a safety thing because you are working with a live battery and a metal tipped soldering iron. I would recommend looking at the other guide for magnet adjustment on here and carrying that out when the battery is removed, I expect most will need this done after some use the coil and magnet move closer together, toothbrush gets noisy and weaker. for reference my battery was a sony one not sanyo. the part number 4235 010 13068. They are 14500 battery with tabs for PCB mount. the specific ones sold on ebay are expensive and possibly fake. I just got a pack of 4 soshine 14500 900mAh and soldered wires on to attach to the pcb

Scott Pattinson - Reply

you have to resolder the jumper, it is required. this must be a saftey thing to isolate battery from pcb while you work on it. recommend that magnet adjustment is done while you have it apart. I used soshine 14500 900mAh battery and soldered some wires to it for pcb attach. I didn’t truest the probably fake specific batteries on ebay that are being sold at inflated prices. The battery I removed was a sony one not sanyo as being sold on ebay. p/n 4235 010 13068

Scott Pattinson - Reply

The “jumper” solder points need to be bridged again for it to work

my toothbrush had a sony battery in it and was about 5 years old when I replaced it. Some of the replacements available on popular sites are not sony. I opted to buy a good brand 14500 battery without the tabs and just solder my own wires to it.

While you have it apart I recommend that the other ifixit guide is followed to get the correct distance between the coil and magnet for best performance

Scott Pattinson - Reply

I attempted this today but my toothbrush still won’t turn on. The new battery tests as working with a multimeter, and the old one is definitely dead. Before I start poking for other failure points, are there other test points I can use to ensure my soldering job is working?

Also, why unsolder the jumper if it just needs to be bridged again?

rsbrogna - Reply

rsbrogna I believe the jumper had to do with the counter plus it was easier for me to do it that way. The only point I can think of where to test is at the fuse on the PCB.

oldturkey03 -

I tried to re-aligned the magnetic motor and when I reassembled the toothbrush there was no power at all. I think it’s because somehow the fuse on the PCB has gone, as if I make a connection across the fuse on the PCB power can return. Is there any way of replacing the fuse so I can get it working again? Thanks

Dan Solomon - Reply

@solly90

Fuse= (watts/volts)X1.25

Watt = Amps x Volt

Watt = .9 X3.7

Watt = 3.3

Fuse = (3.3/3.7)x1.25

Fuse = 1.125

~1.5 Amp fuse will work. Measure the width and length of your fuse to determine the package size and check on places like Mouser or Digikey for a replacement

oldturkey03 -

Wo bekommt frau den neuen Akku zu kaufen in Österreich? Oder zur Not in Deutschland? GG Rita. Antworten bitte an: rita.b@chello.at

Danke!

Rita - Reply

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