Introduction
This guide takes you through a step-by-step process to replace your camera's motherboard. The first seven steps can also be used to replace the camera back, which is a handy way to replace the LCD without having to de-solder any wires. If you are going the whole way and replacing the motherboard, you will need to use a soldering iron during this process, in which case be sure to use caution when doing so!
What you need
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Remove the three 3.5-mm screws from the underside of the camera that are circled.
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Remove the battery, and any SD card that is in the camera.
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Use a plastic opening tool to unplug the two ribbon cables connecting the two parts of the casing.
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The orange-brown ribbon cable has a tiny brown plastic latch/door that flips up to release the cable. The silver ribbon is simply pressed into place; the ends are the safest point to gently pry it off to avoid damaging its wires.
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If you are only replacing the camera back, stop here and reverse the preceding steps to install the new back.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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USF Tampa, Team 3-1, Eyestone Fall 2015 Member of USF Tampa, Team 3-1, Eyestone Fall 2015
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7 Comments
How did you remove the cap from dioptric adjustment dial without braking the cap in step5?
there is a sticker above it you've to remove the sticker not the whol cap, the under the sticker you will see the screw
I soaked the back of my camera, which fried the LCD and one of the buttons. Bought a new back on eBay for $60 and used this to replace it in about an hour. This might be the preferred way to replace the LCD for some folks, to avoid having to what appears to be a fairly delicate desolder-resolder to replace only the LCD. As of the time of this comment, the parts cost a little bit more -- like $20 for LCD vs $60 for the full back, but not prohibitively so.
Hi nice presentation - does not look too difficult. My camera repair man however tells me that a replacement motherboard is non-functional with the camera unless properly programmed by Nikon software. Is there a way around this? There are several vendors of of D5200 replacement motherboards on eBay - are these normally programmed? Kind Regards, Hans Eric
