Introduction

Follow this guide to replace a worn out battery for the Motorola Droid Turbo 2. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

For your safety, discharge your existing battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair.

  1. Power off your phone before you begin working.
    • Power off your phone before you begin working.

    • Insert a SIM eject tool, SIM eject bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the phone.

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  2. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the phone for a minute.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the phone for a minute.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

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    • Angle an opening pick and firmly press so that it slips under the back cover.

      • Depending on the age of the phone, this can be difficult. Additional heating with the iOpener may help. You can pry carefully with a metal spudger to create a gap for the opening pick.

    Use a heat gun to loosen adhesive prior top using spudger

    chris.reinert - Reply

    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to break up the adhesive.

      • Use the pick to release the deeper areas but avoid slicing through the camera bezel area.

    It took me over an hour to pry the back cover off the phone.   Don't give up – it can be done!  It takes some time, heat, and persistence to wedge the blue picks under the back.  And not knowing what is under there can cause stress!  Bottom line - don't be afraid to apply pressure to the pick to break the seal between the back and the metal edge, and then you can slide the pick in under the back cover without breaking any electronics.  I did not notice the blue plastic prying tool until after I wrestled the back off – I think that would have helped with the final peeling off stage.

    Thomas Johnson - Reply

    • Repeat the iOpener heating and slicing procedures for the remaining three sides.

    • Make sure to cut into the deeper areas as the back cover is held on by a large adhesive surface.

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    • Once you have cut through the adhesive, slowly peel the back cover away from the frame.

    • Remove the back cover.

    • Before reassembly, check if the phone operates normally. Remove all adhesive residue from the back cover and the frame, and apply new adhesive to the body.

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    • Insert an opening pick under the flash connector rubber cover and pry forward to remove it.

    • To reinstall the cover, align the cover and use your finger to push it forward into place.

    The two plastic covers do not fit snugly in place, so after putting them back in place, use small bits of electrical tape to secure them before installing a new adhesive back cover. I tested my phone thoroughly before the last step, so that I would not have to buy a new cover if something didn't work.

    Bill Koonce - Reply

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    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and remove the coil connector rubber cover.

    • To reinstall the cover, align the cover and use your finger to push it forward into place.

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    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flash connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    Be careful to note the picture as to how the flash connector and wireless charging coil connector are disconnected:  you just pry them up a bit and leave them sitting there at an angle – you do not pull them out!  Reconnecting them for me was a delicate operation - I wasn’t sure how to seat them - one of them seemed to plug in fairly easily, and the other didn’t seem to seat right until I gently pushed down on it while replacing the cover.  I was worried I might have broken a wire or bent a connector in the process, but the good news is when all was said and done the phone worked!

    Thomas Johnson - Reply

    Good point! I have added a bullet about how to reconnect these type of connectors.

    Arthur Shi -

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector.

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    • Remove the following T3 screws securing the midframe:

      • Thirteen 3.1 mm black screws

      • Four 4.3 mm silver screws

    My phone (purchased 12/2015) has only 2 silver screws top and bottom (4 total), and they're also T3, not Philips.

    With a Torx screw this tiny, it pays to take time to make sure that the driver is well seated before turning it. This will eliminate stripped screws. Also, I loosened each screw first, and then removed them. Breaking them free before turning them also helps prevent stripping.

    Bill Koonce - Reply

    Also need to add to the tool list: PH00 and PH000. These should be in the iFixit tool kit.

    Dan - Reply

    eitherway its a T4 torx in my phone. Double checked my bit. T-4 same for all these screws

    Raymond Lewis - Reply

    T4 in mine as well. Stripped out a T3 bit figuring this out.

    Shane Kennington -

    They were all T3’s in the one I am repairing. Must be different depending on where it is manufactured.

    James Blaine - Reply

    I recommend placing your phone down on a flat surface and then you can put good pressure straight down to remove the screws.

    Leif Thorson - Reply

    One of the small screws was stripped. I used a 1/8” drill to eliminate the head - very . The mid-plane came off, and I finished removing the screw with a small pair of needle-nose pliers.

    Larry Peterson - Reply

    • Insert an opening pick along the frame seam and twist slightly to release the midframe from the phone.

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    • Remove the midframe from the phone.

      • You can tape over the side buttons to prevent them from falling out during your repair.

    • If the buttons fall out of the midframe, reinsert them in the orientation as shown before you reinstall the midframe.

    I'm assuming the reverse of the buttons falling out is just to put them back in. The question I have, however, is... Are they reversible, or is there only one orientation in which each of these buttons fits back in?

    pj.catania - Reply

    The buttons will NOT "fall in" when reassembling, so it's important to remember to put them back. I found that putting them in the frame before replacing it is the only way. Check to see how they fit on the phone first, then drop them into their slots outside-in. The power button will fit only one way; the volume buttons should go in oriented as they fit best on the phone. Be sure to test them to make sure they click freely often! It's easier to readjust them before all those screws are back in.

    Bill Koonce - Reply

    Going to make a small etch on the very bottom (as the phone is held portrait) of each button before beginning the project. A fine tip Sharpie might also work for some people.

    Dan - Reply

    I have not done this yet but, try using a small bit of electrical tape to secure them to the mid-frame before removal

    jerryj26 - Reply

    Yes, a small strip of tape on the mid frame to hold the buttons in place works great. Thanks for the idea. I simply put a piece over the buttons and onto the whole frame, then cut it carefully along the edge between the glass an mid frame when I separated the two piece. This held the buttons nicely in place and ready for reinstalling.

    Rob Reynolds -

    I dropped the volume button on the floor. The electrical tape is brilliant.

    Larry Peterson - Reply

    Be careful putting the mid-plane back on. The volume control innards were bent and straightening it back out took a lot of time - on phone #2.

    Larry Peterson - Reply

    Be very careful with these buttons as the contacts are very delicate! Tape is great idea. Wish I did. My power & volume buttons don’t work freely like before this procedure. Those contacts got tweaked on assembly.

    Frederick Minney - Reply

    It sounds like people like the tape idea and it’s a helpful step, so I’ve added it into the guide step. Thanks for the comments!

    Arthur Shi - Reply

    I tried taping the side buttons on but they slipped out anyway.  Observe the photo to replace them in the proper orientation.  It’s actually quite easy, and I’m not certain how effective taping them would ultimately be as it’s important to seat the slots over the tabs inside the body.  You need to be an extraordinary taper to stick them in place such that they “presto!” drop in place when reinstalling the mainframe

    Thomas Johnson - Reply

    • Carefully peel the black tape layer from the phone.

    • While it is unnecessary for normal operation, the tape layer can be reused during reinstallation if it is in good condition.

    I found that the black tape was like a bag--as I pulled it off, it filled with air, and the air did not escape when I put it back. I used the knife to make a small hole to let the trapped air escape.

    Bill Koonce - Reply

    I’m pretty OCD and wanted to reuse the plastic bag, but when I pulled if off it got all twisted up, so I just tossed it.  The instructions are correct that it is not necessary for normal operation - my phone worked just fine without it.

    Thomas Johnson - Reply

    • Remove the two 4.2 mm T3 screws securing the metal bracket adjacent to the battery.

    • Remove the metal bracket.

    based on my phone all these screw on this phone are T4, not T3

    Jeremy Mikesell - Reply

    Based on my phone all the screws are T4 not T3

    Jeremy Mikesell - Reply

    +1 same here

    Raymond Lewis -

    Mine were T3’s on the metal bracket. It’s gotta be a manufacturing thing. So weird

    James Blaine - Reply

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery pack connector.

    If you're going to use metallic tweezers, make sure not to touch any part of the connector when removing. I momentarily shorted a connection (sparks).

    Michael Keyser - Reply

    Also when installing new battery, note battery does not fill up entire space so there is some discretion on positioning.  In reference to above photo, make sure new battery is shifted slightly to right (towards top of phone) so as to not lay on top of circuit board below (left in photo).  After reassembling mine the phone speaker would not work, so I took it apart again and figured out the battery connector harness was partially on top of the circuit board and interfering with needed electrical contact between the mid-frame and the circuit board.  Easily fixed by adjusting battery position.  Fortunately I had tested phone operation BEFORE reattaching back cover so this was an easy fix.

    TERRY COSS - Reply

    • Angle and insert an opening pick under the long edge of the battery away from the motherboard side.

    • Insert a second opening pick along the same battery edge next to the first pick.

    This may seem silly, but I’d suggest inking an X on the old battery and setting it aside a good distance from your project when you remove it so you don’t get it mixed up with the new battery!

    Thomas Johnson - Reply

    • Apply firm, constant prying pressure to the picks to release the battery from the frame.

    • As the battery loosens from the frame, move the picks inward and continue to pry upwards.

    • The battery is secured to the frame with strong double-sided tape. To help release the battery, apply some high concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the battery to help loosen the adhesive.

    • Don't deform or puncture the battery, or it may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

    My replacement battery came with the ribbon cable facing the wrong direction. I had to fold the black part over so the connector was oriented properly.

    Bill Koonce - Reply

    They did that on purpose as reports of ripped battery ribbon cables were coming in, folding the "excess" solves that torsion!

    Dan Lo Fat - Reply

    I want a link to a legitimate exact battery replacement purchase

    Dan Lo Fat - Reply

    Did you find a replacement battery? I don't see one on this site.

    Richard Drawdy -

    This step was one of the most difficult. The adhesive beneath the battery required extremely careful prying to slowly loosen it up. Lithium batteries are spooky enough as it is, without bending them for removal. Tread carefully on this step.

    surfdaworld - Reply

    If its glued down like iphones are then use a length of dental floss or 2 to make it stronger. Loop it behind the battery then use it to saw through the glue.

    Anthony shackman -

    That's really smart.

    Michael Keyser -

    I don’t think I could have gotten dental floss behind my battery due to all of the tape. I just pried up on the side shown in the picture and worked the tool towards the center and up and down the side. I was afraid to break something trying to pry from the opposite side.

    Tim Borow - Reply

    The poly bag will stretch out if you go too hard too fast, I actually punctured the outer bag and caught a whiff of super strong solvent, shat myself, and finished removing the bag over the concrete of my empty garage. No fire tho, thankfully. Use a credit cardto seperate the glue from the bag without having to pull it up so far.

    Jake B - Reply

    I used Isopropyl Alcohol (99%) and small bottle with needle to get under the edges of battery. Once I did the battery came off without any problems.

    James Blaine - Reply

    • Remove the battery.

    • Never reinstall a damaged or deformed battery. Replace the battery.

    • To reinstall the battery, orient it such that the wires exit near the bottom towards the motherboard side.

    • Clean off any adhesive residue which may prevent the battery from sitting flush against the frame. Use a few strips of adhesive included in the battery kit or some double-sided tape to secure the battery to the frame.

    question for all yours guys after replacing your battery, is your phone charging fast like suppose to be?

    Antoine Perez - Reply

    @Antoine Perez: I have never fast-charged any of my lithium-powered devices, as it tends to shorten battery life. All I can tell you is that the genuine LG Chem battery that I used as a replacement seems to be behaving exactly like the original. Source:

    https://www.mobiledefenders.com/battery-...

    Vulcan Tourist - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Motorola Moto Droid Turbo 2 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

39 other people completed this guide.

Arthur Shi

Member since: 01/03/2018

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35 Comments

When you reference a T3 Drillbit in the parts list, you mean a T3 driver bit, correct? If so, you should probably correct the listing to match the T4, T5, and T6 bits in the list...

pj.catania - Reply

Other than the comments I left above, I felt this was a nice simple-to-follow guide that gives me confidence to try this myself.

If you fix the items listed above, it will be perfect.

Thanks!

pj.catania - Reply

Where can you buy a replacement battery for this phone?

Jim - Reply

Despite being careful, I lost one screw that seemingly disappeared as I tried to place it back. Even a rare earth magnet didn't find it. It would be nice to have spare screws.

Bill Koonce - Reply

From whom would get those?

Dan Lo Fat -

Your neighbors Turbo 2…it would've up to you whether or not to tell the neighbors that you got them, lol. Everyone seems to have a junk phone around, open it up and find the closest matching one….. I be yet to find anyone that sells spare phone

Jack Gaites -

Replaced the battery, but now the display is pixelated on the right side. Any ideas? Need help ASAP.

Cameron Barringer - Reply

The only thing that got me hung up on this was the volume button reassembly. I can't seem to get the volume button to work properly again.

Richard Drawdy - Reply

Follow this garbage guide and you will BRICK your phone!

j_bundock - Reply

Well, that’s constructive. How so?

Michael Keyser -

Replacing the battery will not brick your phone, you must have done something other than following these instruction. Did you make sure the phone was off before removing the battery? I have changed three Droid Turbo 2 batteries following these instructions and have never done any damage to the phones.

Charles Legg -

Guide worked perfectly to replace the battery, but now my external speaker is not functioning. Opened it back up to test all connections and tested speaker also. Everything tests fine, but no external audio. Happy to have my battery life back, but very frustrated to lose audio.

surfdaworld - Reply

I have the same problem with speakers not working. Did you find a fix?

james -

Same result. Any fix for speaker not working?

james -

Steps 10, and 11 seemed unnecessary also as everyone else has been saying I used all T4 screws.

Tim - Reply

I had to use a T3 driver for my screws. Re. the volume and power buttons, I placed mine into their slots and had them sticking out approx what they’d be with the phone assembled. Note: each button has a tiny notch on one end, the flat end that fits into the phone. The notches in each button should be placed so the notches face each other. Before installing the screws, test the buttons to see if they feel right. I bought from Harbor Freight a set of jewelers eye pieces with a variety of powers. I found the 10x power to be very helpful when re-seating the connections properly. Turn on the phone to be sure you have power and sound before finishing up with the back cover. I purchased a new back OEM back cover with adhesive on it. I cleaned all the old adhesive off the phone parts. Then wiped with alcohol just prior to installing the cover. I warmed up the inside of the phone and the new back cover with a hair dryer just a bit before placing it back onto the phone.

Puttputtinpup Isuzu - Reply

I bought 3 android turbo 2 phones. one for myself, my wife and my son. The battery failed for my son first after 18 months, then my wife after 24 months and then for me after about 26 months. I don’t believe this is just coincidence. Just like VW corporation was dishonest about emissions and Apple was dishonest about their batteries, I believe Motorola has been dishonest and a class action suit should be filed against them also. I have a Tablet that I have owned for close to 8 years now. I have never replaced the battery in it and It still holds a charge for a whole day. My android Turbo 2 phone can stay on the charger all night, show a 100% charge, I can bring it up stairs, set it down for 5 minutes and then go back to use and the screen will go black on it the moment that I try to use it. Please contact me if you would also like to start a class action suit against Motorola. The corporations need to be honest. My e-mail is gjchapman1526@gmail.com

gjchapman1526 - Reply

Hi we also had 3 turbo 2s. My first one had to be replaced within 6 mo. Now my 2nd ones port went bad & have to charge on a pad. But it won't do anything but go to dead battery screen. Both my husband & daughter's have been replaced but I have no warrenty left on mine. These are junk. I'm so mad . It showed a charge, but now goes from menu to dead battery. If you get around to a class action suit count me in. Chris thanks

Chris

gallionz53@gmail.com

cgallion -

not thrilled to do this, but my phone is slow, and super slow when turbo charging….AND, when I get down to like 35% battery and try to open an app or something else that’s strenuous, screen goes blank and dies. I plug it in, and it says charging at 35% (or whatever it died at).

Ryan Corneliusen - Reply

I think some of these posters aren’t being very careful when prying off the plastic backing. It is very common to easily damage this stuff if you aren’t using a some sort of hot plate, or a pro with a heat gun. There are also small heat bags that your able to toss in the microwave.

otherworldhunter - Reply

Mine too. Shuts down at 29%. Start day at 100%. I'm at 60% in 3 hours, 55% in 4.5 hours, and then shut down at 6.25 hours. Older phones were so much easier to change battery yourself.

Lance Wong -

The guide has been revised! Sorry for all the confusion!

Arthur Shi - Reply

1. When I disassembled my phone, I was left with FIVE loose parts. This guide only mentions TWO of them: it omits reference to the loose volume and power button parts and the camera shield. The volume button part at least is reversible along its narrow axis, but the power button isn’t and must be replaced in the correct orientation; that orientation can be determined by overlaying and aligning the back half and eyeballing it, but that is only easily done if you recognize the loose parts!

2. They are Torx *T3* screws, NOT T4!

3. No mention at all is made of the clear plastic strip that may remain stuck to the back plate after removal, a cover meant to create a resonance chamber for the speaker. This MUST be carefully removed and re-adhered over the chamber before using any precut adhesive solution like the one sold through iFixit. The earlier comment from someone that lost external audio might have been due to this oversight.

Vulcan Tourist - Reply

Thanks for the feedback! Is the volume and power button orientation confusion clarified by this image (as linked in step 13), or is it another part? In terms of screw sizes, we found there was a discrepancy as you can see in the comments of steps 11 and 15; we found that T4 worked correctly for our device. I will check both sizes again.

Arthur Shi -

Yes, that image shows the correct orientation. I didn’t see it when I skimmed the instructions; I was already confident in my own black-boxing abilities and so my viewing was mostly limited to picture-book mode. The buttons should receive more explicit treatment, for the benefit of people who aren’t experienced.

There is no doubt about the correct Torx bit: it is T3. The confusion probably arises from the quality of the bit used: precision at that small scale matters! I didn’t already have Torx bits smaller than T10, and when I sourced them I saw significant differences in quality. I chose bits from a company named Wiha that I could see were very precisely machined, but others appeared to be cheaply cast/molded. That would make all the difference. The Wiha T3 bit fit very snugly DOWN INSIDE the screws, while the T4 bit rode on top and just barely made contact with the scalloping. Trying to use the T4 bit would cause damage to the leading face of the bit and likely the screws as well.

Vulcan Tourist -

I’ve modified the step to make the button orientation more accessible. Thanks for the suggestion!

Arthur Shi -

Yes, I think that will be better for the newbies (and skimming old codgers). You still disagree that it contains T3 screws and not T4?

I’d share the photos of the dangerously extreme state of the battery I replaced, but that is apparently not possible in comments. No company has any business embedding components that have the potential to burn or explode.

Vulcan Tourist -

After verification, it looks like that while the T4 will work, the T3 will fit better. Of course, this is based on the bits that come with the iFixit kits. I will update the guides and pass this onto our kitting and tools department.

Arthur Shi -

After replacing battery, the left half of the screen is grey so I cant see the icons, but it workks when i press in that area. Rechecked and reseated motherboard connections, no fix. Has anyone run into this and found solutions?. It's not really useable this way. Thanks

Andy - Reply

my kit was shipped with a t5 and a phillips PH00. cannot fix the phone with these as is needs a t4. someones dropping the ball on QC…

Matthew Boehm - Reply

maybe im missing something were you guys t3s stashed away somewhere else?

Matthew Boehm -

Hi Matthew,

Please contact our customer support and we will get you sorted right away!

Arthur Shi -

My phone quite definitely uses T3 Torx screws. Either Motorola switched to different screws in different production runs or others are using the wrong drivers.

Vulcan Tourist - Reply

Thank you sooooooo much, it worked like a charm for me. I’m feeling so happy!

vfontanela - Reply

Success! All T3 screws.

The power button felt as though it would not depress as I reassembled. I pulled the mid-frame apart once more and found that the power button had interfered with its flex cable upon assembly and pushed it out of position. What seemed to work best for me was to have the power button protruding out of the case slightly more than it would be normally. Then carefully install the mid-frame button side first, the power button should draw itself in as you snap the mid-frame into place, and ensure proper operation before closing up the device.

For those that lost external audio. I experienced this as well and found a solution to my problem. With the mid-frame removed, there are two very small gold connectors for the external speaker. Look at the mid-frame speaker contacts and find where they make contact with the board. These gold pins may not be making solid contact. Carefully bend them upward VERY slightly. Re-test, bend a bit more if needed, and ensure it works before completing assembly.

reidj - Reply

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