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Introduction

This guide will go over how to replace the cameras on the Microsoft Surface Pro 5, also known as the Microsoft Surface Pro (2017). The Microsoft Surface Pro 5 has two cameras: one front facing and one rear facing. Both are located underneath the black tie bar. The iOpener is used in this guide, but a hair dryer or heat gun could also be used. See instructions for the iOpener here.

  1. Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.
    • Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.

    • The display is strongly glued to the frame of the device.

    • To remove the display, first soften the adhesive by applying heat. You can use a heat pad, heat gun, or iOpener. In a pinch, a hair dryer can also work.

    • Be careful when using a heat gun, as too much heat can permanently damage the display and/or battery.

    • Steadily and evenly heat the perimeter of the display until it's too hot to touch, and try to maintain that temperature for several minutes.

  2. Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame. If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display.
    • Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame.

    • If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Slide the pick around the sides and bottom of the display to cut the adhesive. Apply more heat as needed.

    • Work carefully—the glass is thin and will crack easily if you try to force it.

    • Separate the top edge last. There are antennas on both sides, so be careful not to damage them. Use more heat or a bit of isopropyl alcohol to help weaken the adhesive.

    The screen switch out took me over 8 hours of slow, meticulous, work, for this being my first time attempt at such a fix. As suggested here, my broken screen shattered even more despite taking care and taping it to reduce or prevent more shattering which added greatly to the time needed to fix. I found it helpful to work to separate the screen from the adhesive so that the adhesive remained behind and acted as a protective layer for the antennae. Once the glass was off, I went back and removed the glass shards from the adhesive with a plastic spudger and only replaced the adhesive that I had removed adding new adhesive to the gaps which worked well.

    Lauren Alvarado - Reply

  3. Pry up the metal shield covering the smaller ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool. Disconnect the smaller ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.
    • Pry up the metal shield covering the smaller ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool.

    • Disconnect the smaller ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.

  4. Pry up the metal shield covering the larger ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool and remove. Disconnect the larger ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.
    • Pry up the metal shield covering the larger ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool and remove.

    • Disconnect the larger ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.

    There is a small battery logo near the battery on the motherboard , it looks like a battery out of juice logo, you want to short the two parts of the logo together (so that the red led next to it turns off) so that the battery isnt powering the motherboard anylonger so that you dont blow backlight or any other circuts

    aaron stevenson - Reply

    I’d love for this to be true, but I’ve searched very thoroughly and I don’t see it. Checked the Surface Pro 4 and SP6 as well. AFAIK there’s no way to disconnect the battery. Just wasn’t designed to be serviced at all.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the screen from the rest of the device .

    • To replace the adhesive securing the screen, carefully remove any old adhesive from both the device and the back of the display. Clean and prep the surface with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth, swiping the cloth in one direction (not back and forth). Apply a strong double-sided tape, such as 2 mm Tesa 61395.

  5. Pry off the protective metal shield covering the main processor using either the nylon spudger or the plastic opening tool.
    • Pry off the protective metal shield covering the main processor using either the nylon spudger or the plastic opening tool.

  6. Remove the four silver Torx T5 x 3mm screws holding the heat sink onto the main processor.
    • Remove the four silver Torx T5 x 3mm screws holding the heat sink onto the main processor.

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  8. Remove the remaining five black Torx T4 x 3mm screws holding down the heat sink assembly. Remove the remaining five black Torx T4 x 3mm screws holding down the heat sink assembly.
    • Remove the remaining five black Torx T4 x 3mm screws holding down the heat sink assembly.

  9. Remove the heat sink from the device by grabbing one of the copper bars with your fingers and lifting straight up.
    • Remove the heat sink from the device by grabbing one of the copper bars with your fingers and lifting straight up.

    • Avoid touching the thermal paste that is on the back of the heat sink and on the front of the CPU. If you get thermal paste on your hands, wash it off with mild soap and water.

  10. Remove the Torx T5 x 6mm screw connecting the black tie bar to the power button/volume control/speaker assembly.
    • Remove the Torx T5 x 6mm screw connecting the black tie bar to the power button/volume control/speaker assembly.

  11. Remove the remaining three Torx T5 x 4.5mm screws holding down the camera tie bar.
    • Remove the remaining three Torx T5 x 4.5mm screws holding down the camera tie bar.

  12. Disconnect the small ribbon cable connecting the camera tie bar to the motherboard by pulling up with tweezers.
    • Disconnect the small ribbon cable connecting the camera tie bar to the motherboard by pulling up with tweezers.

  13. Lift the camera tie bar off of the device.
    • Lift the camera tie bar off of the device.

  14. Pry off the metal cover covering the front and rear camera ribbon cable motherboard connections using a nylon spudger.
    • Pry off the metal cover covering the front and rear camera ribbon cable motherboard connections using a nylon spudger.

  15. Lift the front camera ribbon cable off the motherboard using the nylon spudger.
    • Lift the front camera ribbon cable off the motherboard using the nylon spudger.

  16. Remove the front camera.
    • Remove the front camera.

  17. Remove the two Torx T3 x 2.5mm screws holding down the rear camera.
    • Remove the two Torx T3 x 2.5mm screws holding down the rear camera.

  18. Lift the rear camera ribbon cable off the motherboard using the nylon spudger.
    • Lift the rear camera ribbon cable off the motherboard using the nylon spudger.

  19. Remove the rear camera.
    • Remove the rear camera.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

One other person completed this guide.

Paul Manzer

Member since: 10/02/2017

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Cal Poly, Team S15-G3, Livingston Fall 2017 Member of Cal Poly, Team S15-G3, Livingston Fall 2017

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One Comment

In step 19, there is a loose, clear plastic piece next to the front camera. In my disassembly, that piece managed to get lost. Can anyone tell me what the name of that part is, and where I can get one?

Charley Ballmer - Reply

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