Introduction

Does your classic Merc have a loose shifter? Follow along as I replace the interior shifter bushes

Video Overview

Image 1/3: This car was never sold in USA, as I'm in New Zealand, but the centre-console is the same for all the other 114 and 115 automatics (and probably other model ranges) Image 2/3: First step is to open and remove your Ashtray to gain access to the first set of screws Image 3/3: Push down on the metal tab - while pulling the ashtray out
  • This guide only applies to floor-shift automatics, such as my 1976 230.6 (114.015)

  • This car was never sold in USA, as I'm in New Zealand, but the centre-console is the same for all the other 114 and 115 automatics (and probably other model ranges)

  • First step is to open and remove your Ashtray to gain access to the first set of screws

  • Push down on the metal tab - while pulling the ashtray out

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Remove the two pan-head screws at the rear of the opening - ignore the two counter-sunk screws at the bottom for now Image 2/3: Careful when you pull it out as the connector for the cigar lighter contacts on left sticks out so you can't just pull it straight-out Image 3/3: Careful when you pull it out as the connector for the cigar lighter contacts on left sticks out so you can't just pull it straight-out
  • After you've removed the ashtray you'll see the ashtray frame/bracket

  • Remove the two pan-head screws at the rear of the opening - ignore the two counter-sunk screws at the bottom for now

  • Careful when you pull it out as the connector for the cigar lighter contacts on left sticks out so you can't just pull it straight-out

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Now you can remove those two counter-sunk screws holding in the front of the shifter/center console panel.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: There is a simple metal trim clip holding the rear of the centre-console trim panel down (marked by a yellow box in photo 2) Image 2/3: You won't be able to see it easily, you can pry back the rubber trim in the marked area to gain a view of the clip (blue box area in photo) Image 3/3: In my car the plastic foot with the metal clip attached to it is cracked, so I added a small bit of wire to help pull it out next time so as not to break it (see red box in 3rd photo)
  • The hardest, or second-hardest step

  • There is a simple metal trim clip holding the rear of the centre-console trim panel down (marked by a yellow box in photo 2)

  • You won't be able to see it easily, you can pry back the rubber trim in the marked area to gain a view of the clip (blue box area in photo)

  • In my car the plastic foot with the metal clip attached to it is cracked, so I added a small bit of wire to help pull it out next time so as not to break it (see red box in 3rd photo)

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Shift to neutral or other gears as required to get the console panel out Image 2/3: You'll need to angle the trim panel back and forth a little as the plugs for your hazards and rear defroster/demister get in the way Image 3/3: I've shown the units and their plugs in Yellow (demister) and Red (hazards)
  • Ensure your handbrake is set, or you're not on a slope

  • Shift to neutral or other gears as required to get the console panel out

  • You'll need to angle the trim panel back and forth a little as the plugs for your hazards and rear defroster/demister get in the way

  • I've shown the units and their plugs in Yellow (demister) and Red (hazards)

Add Comment

Image 1/3: When you're re-installing it, you simply line up the V symbol on the shifter housing with the V symbol on the lamp holder Image 2/3: When you're re-installing it, you simply line up the V symbol on the shifter housing with the V symbol on the lamp holder Image 3/3: When you're re-installing it, you simply line up the V symbol on the shifter housing with the V symbol on the lamp holder
  • It's simply clipped-in and you can pry using a small flat-head at the top to get it started

  • When you're re-installing it, you simply line up the V symbol on the shifter housing with the V symbol on the lamp holder

Add Comment

Image 1/3: There are 3 bolts, one on the right-side and 2 on the left Image 2/3: They have a small wavy washer, don't drop it down the centre-console when you pull them out Image 3/3: You won't be able to remove the surround fully until the next step
  • You'll need a 10mm socket - I used a 1/4in deep

  • There are 3 bolts, one on the right-side and 2 on the left

  • They have a small wavy washer, don't drop it down the centre-console when you pull them out

  • You won't be able to remove the surround fully until the next step

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Now you can unscrew the shift lever/knob Image 2/3: When you're re-installing it ensure it's clocked correctly before tightening the jam nut Image 3/3: When you're re-installing it ensure it's clocked correctly before tightening the jam nut
  • First loosen the 15mm jam nut (outlined in red)

  • Now you can unscrew the shift lever/knob

  • When you're re-installing it ensure it's clocked correctly before tightening the jam nut

Add Comment

Image 1/3: The top-left bolt has the ground cable for the shifter backlight on it Image 2/3: The bolts have large flat washers on them, be careful not to drop them down the side of the console - use a magnet if necessary Image 3/3: The bolts have large flat washers on them, be careful not to drop them down the side of the console - use a magnet if necessary
  • There are four 10mm bolts, the left two bolts are hard to see, you'll need to pry the trim back a bit

  • The top-left bolt has the ground cable for the shifter backlight on it

  • The bolts have large flat washers on them, be careful not to drop them down the side of the console - use a magnet if necessary

Add Comment

Image 1/3: The green thing in the picture is the driveshaft Image 2/3: To get better access, you can pull the shift rod towards the rear of the car (go through a few gears) as I did Image 3/3: The clip is fairly easy to remove with needle nose pliers and/or a small flat-head screwdriver
  • After lifting up the shifter housing (black plastic part) you'll see it's attached to the shift rod below

  • The green thing in the picture is the driveshaft

  • To get better access, you can pull the shift rod towards the rear of the car (go through a few gears) as I did

  • The clip is fairly easy to remove with needle nose pliers and/or a small flat-head screwdriver

  • Be careful not to drop the clip down the side of the centre console or through the hole in the tunnel now revealed

  • These photos are actually from re-assembly, as you can see I lubed up all bushings with 3M Silicone paste - you could use any plastic-safe lube

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • You'll see a plastic half-moon part (to stop dust and noise from entering the car) - it just pulls out

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Again as these photos were taken during re-assembly there is silicone lube present Image 2/3: You can see there is a tiny bushing in between the spring and the small rod on each end - these bushing are optional but cheap, mine were completely gone Image 3/3: The small bushing part number is: 1152670950
  • Remove a clip from one end of the small rod connecting the shift lever yoke to the main rod

  • Again as these photos were taken during re-assembly there is silicone lube present

  • You can see there is a tiny bushing in between the spring and the small rod on each end - these bushing are optional but cheap, mine were completely gone

  • The small bushing part number is: 1152670950

  • I used a small screwdriver and needle-nose pliers to remove the clip (slide in direction of red arrow)

Add Comment

Image 1/3: These photos were during re-assembly so the bushing is fresh and clear, the old ones would probably be yellowed or cracked or missing Image 2/3: I put a blue circle on one end of the small rod and a red circle on the other end so you can identify them better Image 3/3: I used again the small screwdriver and needle-nose pliers to pry the spring back while re-inserting the bushings
  • Some better views of those tiny bushings as you pull the small rod out (slide rod out in direction of arrow)

  • These photos were during re-assembly so the bushing is fresh and clear, the old ones would probably be yellowed or cracked or missing

  • I put a blue circle on one end of the small rod and a red circle on the other end so you can identify them better

  • I used again the small screwdriver and needle-nose pliers to pry the spring back while re-inserting the bushings

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • And a final show of parts involved to attach/detach the yoke from the shaft

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Removing the snap-ring Image 2/3: If you have small snap-ring pliers this is probably pretty easy Image 3/3: If not you might be lucky like I was and the needle-nose tips fit into the holes
  • Now the hardest or second-hardest step

  • Removing the snap-ring

  • If you have small snap-ring pliers this is probably pretty easy

  • If not you might be lucky like I was and the needle-nose tips fit into the holes

  • Even so it was a challenge to install and remove the snap-ring

  • Also the part will probably go flying, so do the disassembly in a place where you can find it if it goes flying

  • The washer goes under the snap ring

  • As you can see these photos are from re-assembly, my old bushing was yellowed and the left-side in pieces

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Here you'll see why you had to remove the plastic half-moon part Image 2/3: After you've got it all apart, the bushings (if any remain) should just push out Image 3/3: I cleaned up and then lubed the parts before reassembling
  • Finally you can slide out the main rod from the plastic housing

  • Here you'll see why you had to remove the plastic half-moon part

  • After you've got it all apart, the bushings (if any remain) should just push out

  • I cleaned up and then lubed the parts before reassembling

Add Comment

Image 1/3: The second image is how the bushings are oriented on the part Image 2/3: The third image is the silicone paste lubricant on the bushing, ready to be slid back into the housing Image 3/3: Follow the steps in reverse order to re-assemble
  • My old bushing(s) vs the new parts

  • The second image is how the bushings are oriented on the part

  • The third image is the silicone paste lubricant on the bushing, ready to be slid back into the housing

  • Follow the steps in reverse order to re-assemble

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Consumables were 3M Silicone Paste, paper towels and a bit of Brake cleaner Image 2/3: The car being worked on, an Orange Mercedes-Benz 1976 230.6 (type 114.015) with automatic transmission, in Right-hand drive as this is in New Zealand Image 3/3: The car being worked on, an Orange Mercedes-Benz 1976 230.6 (type 114.015) with automatic transmission, in Right-hand drive as this is in New Zealand
  • The main tools I used were Philips #2 screwdriver (not pictured), small flat-head screwdriver, small needlenose pliers, 10mm deep socket and drivers

  • Consumables were 3M Silicone Paste, paper towels and a bit of Brake cleaner

  • The car being worked on, an Orange Mercedes-Benz 1976 230.6 (type 114.015) with automatic transmission, in Right-hand drive as this is in New Zealand

Add Comment

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Gaspard Leon

Member since: 04/24/2010

893 Reputation

3 Guides authored

0 Comments

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 1

Past 7 Days: 4

Past 30 Days: 15

All Time: 96