Does your classic Merc have a loose shifter? Follow along as I replace the interior shifter bushes

Video Overview

  1. This guide only applies to floor-shift automatics, such as my 1976 230.6 (114.015)
    • This guide only applies to floor-shift automatics, such as my 1976 230.6 (114.015)

    • This car was never sold in USA, as I'm in New Zealand, but the centre-console is the same for all the other 114 and 115 automatics (and probably other model ranges)

    • First step is to open and remove your Ashtray to gain access to the first set of screws

    • Push down on the metal tab - while pulling the ashtray out

  2. After you've removed the ashtray you'll see the ashtray frame/bracket
    • After you've removed the ashtray you'll see the ashtray frame/bracket

    • Remove the two pan-head screws at the rear of the opening - ignore the two counter-sunk screws at the bottom for now

    • Careful when you pull it out as the connector for the cigar lighter contacts on left sticks out so you can't just pull it straight-out

    • Now you can remove those two counter-sunk screws holding in the front of the shifter/center console panel.

    • The hardest, or second-hardest step

    • There is a simple metal trim clip holding the rear of the centre-console trim panel down (marked by a yellow box in photo 2)

    • You won't be able to see it easily, you can pry back the rubber trim in the marked area to gain a view of the clip (blue box area in photo)

    • In my car the plastic foot with the metal clip attached to it is cracked, so I added a small bit of wire to help pull it out next time so as not to break it (see red box in 3rd photo)

    • Ensure your handbrake is set, or you're not on a slope

    • Shift to neutral or other gears as required to get the console panel out

    • You'll need to angle the trim panel back and forth a little as the plugs for your hazards and rear defroster/demister get in the way

    • I've shown the units and their plugs in Yellow (demister) and Red (hazards)

    • It's simply clipped-in and you can pry using a small flat-head at the top to get it started

    • When you're re-installing it, you simply line up the V symbol on the shifter housing with the V symbol on the lamp holder

    • You'll need a 10mm socket - I used a 1/4in deep

    • There are 3 bolts, one on the right-side and 2 on the left

    • They have a small wavy washer, don't drop it down the centre-console when you pull them out

    • You won't be able to remove the surround fully until the next step

    • First loosen the 15mm jam nut (outlined in red)

    • Now you can unscrew the shift lever/knob

    • When you're re-installing it ensure it's clocked correctly before tightening the jam nut

    • There are four 10mm bolts, the left two bolts are hard to see, you'll need to pry the trim back a bit

    • The top-left bolt has the ground cable for the shifter backlight on it

    • The bolts have large flat washers on them, be careful not to drop them down the side of the console - use a magnet if necessary

    • After lifting up the shifter housing (black plastic part) you'll see it's attached to the shift rod below

    • The green thing in the picture is the driveshaft

    • To get better access, you can pull the shift rod towards the rear of the car (go through a few gears) as I did

    • The clip is fairly easy to remove with needle nose pliers and/or a small flat-head screwdriver

    • Be careful not to drop the clip down the side of the centre console or through the hole in the tunnel now revealed

    • These photos are actually from re-assembly, as you can see I lubed up all bushings with 3M Silicone paste - you could use any plastic-safe lube

    • You'll see a plastic half-moon part (to stop dust and noise from entering the car) - it just pulls out

    • Remove a clip from one end of the small rod connecting the shift lever yoke to the main rod

    • Again as these photos were taken during re-assembly there is silicone lube present

    • You can see there is a tiny bushing in between the spring and the small rod on each end - these bushing are optional but cheap, mine were completely gone

    • The small bushing part number is: 1152670950

    • I used a small screwdriver and needle-nose pliers to remove the clip (slide in direction of red arrow)

    • Some better views of those tiny bushings as you pull the small rod out (slide rod out in direction of arrow)

    • These photos were during re-assembly so the bushing is fresh and clear, the old ones would probably be yellowed or cracked or missing

    • I put a blue circle on one end of the small rod and a red circle on the other end so you can identify them better

    • I used again the small screwdriver and needle-nose pliers to pry the spring back while re-inserting the bushings

    • And a final show of parts involved to attach/detach the yoke from the shaft

    • Now the hardest or second-hardest step

    • Removing the snap-ring

    • If you have small snap-ring pliers this is probably pretty easy

    • If not you might be lucky like I was and the needle-nose tips fit into the holes

    • Even so it was a challenge to install and remove the snap-ring

    • Also the part will probably go flying, so do the disassembly in a place where you can find it if it goes flying

    • The washer goes under the snap ring

    • As you can see these photos are from re-assembly, my old bushing was yellowed and the left-side in pieces

    • Finally you can slide out the main rod from the plastic housing

    • Here you'll see why you had to remove the plastic half-moon part

    • After you've got it all apart, the bushings (if any remain) should just push out

    • I cleaned up and then lubed the parts before reassembling

    • My old bushing(s) vs the new parts

    • The second image is how the bushings are oriented on the part

    • The third image is the silicone paste lubricant on the bushing, ready to be slid back into the housing

    • Follow the steps in reverse order to re-assemble

    • The main tools I used were Philips #2 screwdriver (not pictured), small flat-head screwdriver, small needlenose pliers, 10mm deep socket and drivers

    • Consumables were 3M Silicone Paste, paper towels and a bit of Brake cleaner

    • The car being worked on, an Orange Mercedes-Benz 1976 230.6 (type 114.015) with automatic transmission, in Right-hand drive as this is in New Zealand


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

2 other people completed this guide.

Gaspard Leon

Member since: 04/24/2010

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7 Guides authored

One Comment

Make more /8 guides these are great!

Kaelor - Reply

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