MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Optical Drive Replacement

Replace the optical drive in your MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010.

Replace the optical drive in your MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 4 Optical Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the subwoofer connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge. This step is optional and is not required.

  • Remove the soft padding that may be on top and gently pull the connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • It will be necessary to slide the small clear plastic cable retainer (boxed in red) glued to the logic board out of the way before disconnecting the camera cable. Be careful not to break any components off the board as you slide it away from the camera cable connector.

  • Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.

  • This socket is metal and easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector straight up off the logic board.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive connector straight up off the logic board.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the subwoofer to the upper case:

    • One 3.8 mm Phillips screw.

    • One 5 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • The subwoofer is still connected to the right speaker, so don't completely remove it just yet.

  • Lift the subwoofer off the optical drive, and set it above the computer.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case.

  • The leftmost screw may remain captive in the camera cable.

  • Lift the camera cable bracket out of the upper case.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.

  • Lift the optical drive from its right edge and pull it out of the computer.

Edit Step 12 Optical Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the optical drive cable by pulling it straight away from the optical drive.

  • This connector is particularly deep, so be sure to pull away from the drive at the center of the connector.

  • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

I removed my optical drive without disconnecting the hard drive or anything else. I just unplugged the optical drive from the board, unscrewed the speaker, and very slowly removed the drive after taking out the three screws holding it in place. I was discouraged at first to remove my optical drive because it looked a little too tricky for me from the directions, but it was actually quite easy! I'm going to be interested to see if pulling the optical drive results in any noticeable improvement in battery performance on my 13" 2.4GHz MBP! I doubt it haha

T Buckle, · Reply

It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

scott523, · Reply

The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

iphonetechtips,

Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

wertaerte, · Reply

Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

twisk, · Reply

thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

xitxit2,

i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

plins718, · Reply

Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

mastover, · Reply

I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

adlerpe,

That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

joyitsjennie,

The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

Eric Sorenson, · Reply

Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

danzeitlin,

I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

jonathanmorgan, · Reply

I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

john, · Reply

Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

Igor, · Reply

The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

Some info here:

http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

"1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

"*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

Winston,

I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

valentinedhdh, · Reply

I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

tarriojuan, · Reply

Had no idea they were so expensive.

Franklin, · Reply

why is step 3 necessary?

gansodesoya, · Reply

Quote from gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

MrKane, · Reply

Quote from gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

amiller770, · Reply

I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

shockaaa, · Reply

Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

Brian,

$@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

Lukas Besch, · Reply

You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

Logan Bean,

How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

Horace Chung, · Reply

yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

maccentric,

Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?

Berlugana

bduault, · Reply

Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

amiller770,

I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

Plamen, · Reply

During this step, I accidentally ripped out the whole subwoofer connector from the logic board.. I tried taping it back with scotch tape, but it didn't work - my right speaker and subwoofer don't work anymore.. what are my options? Solder it back on?

Archdelux, · Reply

It is not necessary to remove the camera cable connector (step 5) or the camera cable connector (step 10). Simply push the camera cable gently aside to remove one of the three screws securing the optical drive (step 11). Gently wiggle the optical drive from under the camera cable connector and go to step 12. Less chance of ruining your motherboard!

tomhart, · Reply

It does indeed come out of the connector, but the picture makes it hard to see how; the connector it goes into sits on top of the board—however, I, too, ripped mine off the board trying to remove it; I only got it out of the clip after I tore it off. SIMPLY DONT; it's unnecessary. I plan to solder it back if one of my Robotics club friends lets me borrow a soldering iron.

Rachel, · Reply

I just completed this replacement and there is no need to do this step, you can work around this cable pretty easily. Obviously you need to be careful "dancing" around it. But it's perfectly feasible and you don't risk to break stuff disconnecting it.

Massimo C, · Reply

I messed around with my MBP some years ago and everything was fine. When I opened it yesterday that plastic retainer was glued *above* the camera cable and wasn't very sticky anymore.

On a whim I decided to not put it back in. Now there's now Wifi anymore (did all the hardware reset things, nothing). Can that small plastic thing have to do anything with the wifi?

Thanks for you help!

Nick Names, · Reply

Well, I put that plastic thing back in, still no Wifi (would have really surprised me ^__^).

Nick Names,

I did on my 15" MBP (putting a SSD) without any problem

but I did it on this very model 13" on a friend MBP

and it seems the optical drive cable is dead (both drives works connected elsewhere ) the only other part i was not able to test separately is the data doubler from OWC that allows to fit a SSF in place of the optical drive.

Do anybody experience this ?

The optical drive cable shows no sign of tearing i unplugged it very carefully

BUT once disconnected during the optical drive extraction from its original location the cable might have touch the logical board (not sure just guessing)

Any clues welcome !!

Chewbee, · Reply

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