Introduction

Replace the Trackpad in your MacBook Unibody Model A1342.

Remove the eight 4 mm Phillips screws securing the lower case to the MacBook.
  • Remove the eight 4 mm Phillips screws securing the lower case to the MacBook.

According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.

Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?

Gregoire - Reply

They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...

weeowey weeowey -

The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.

svenaustx - Reply

Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?

nm - Reply

A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III

weeowey weeowey -

hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?

thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.

michelvanaar - Reply

The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!

I hope that helps!

gdesbrisay -

The lower case is constructed of rubber-coated aluminum. Do not excessively bend the aluminum during removal, as any permanent deformation will cause tolerance issues after reassembly. Slightly lift the lower case near the vent opening. Continue running your fingers between the lower and upper cases until the upper case pops off its retaining clips.
  • The lower case is constructed of rubber-coated aluminum. Do not excessively bend the aluminum during removal, as any permanent deformation will cause tolerance issues after reassembly.

  • Slightly lift the lower case near the vent opening.

  • Continue running your fingers between the lower and upper cases until the upper case pops off its retaining clips.

  • The location of these three clips is shown in the third picture.

Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?

John Morley - Reply

Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.

John Morley -

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It may be easier to use your fingernails to lift up on both sides of the connector.

Hi,

for error I did step 3 as last one. The battery now is no more recognized by my macbook.

Did I make such a tremendous mistake that cause the battery to fail ??

Enrico D - Reply

Remove two 5 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.
  • Remove two 5 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.

"Tri-Wing Screws"? I don't see a "Tri-Wing Screwdriver" listed in the "Tools" section.

barryjaylevine - Reply

See here: http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Tri-wing-Y1-...

All tools required are included here: http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/54-Bit-Drive...

Just did it myself ;)

Hannes -

5mm tri-wing screw??

Its hardly that big. It certainly requires a tri-wing screwdriver much smaller than a 5mm tri-wing screwdriver - "Y1" is probably 1mm. The smallest I had was a 2mm tri-wing screwdriver and it just worked ok.

I think this and step 5 should be edited with better information.

yy yy - Reply

The original iFixit guide described the step 4 screws as "tri-wing" but that is incorrect, it should say "tri-point" or "Y", and the required screwdriver diameter is 2 mm, not 5 mm. See this image:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scr...

The top row is tri-wing, the bottom row is tri-point, as found in this MacBook.

irvbromberg - Reply

My tri-wing screws were black, 2mm and totally seized up. I had to break the plastic around the screw holes in the battery, remove it and then un screw them with long nose pliers. Needless to say they are now replaced with Philips screws.

Al Livesey - Reply

A Y1 screwdriver emphatically did not fit mine - so in case it saves others buying a useless set of security bits like I did, you need a Y0, like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/tri-wing-y0-tri...

Jo Wilson - Reply

Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Use the tip of a spudger to carefully peel back the finger of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully peel back the finger of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.

  • Remove the 5 mm Tri-point screw securing the battery to the upper case.

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Remove three 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the battery near the edge of the upper case.
  • Remove three 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the battery near the edge of the upper case.

  • When reinstalling the battery, be sure to install these three screws before proceeding to fasten the Tri-point screws.

When I re-installed the battery, I inadvertently ripped the ribbon between the Trackad ribbon and the battery ribbon. Be Careful!

Joel Gilbert - Reply

"Remove three 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the battery near the edge of the upper case".

Using the tools I bought from iFixit, I have got this far, no worries :)

The channels underneath/around these screws appear damaged and will not allow the screw to unwind and come out, therefore, the screws are "stuck". (This is by no means an indictment of the mini screwdrivers.) Any suggestions to help, because the replacement battery will not fit with these screws in place. Thanks.

jane - Reply

These last 3 screws were a bit** to get off. One of them actually would not come out but I managed to slip the battery out anyways. Maybe it nudged just enough. Getting it back in was okay, just slid it under. Fit was snug, had to be careful not to break or crimp the ribbon in front of the battery connector, as Joel stated. Simply snipped a piece of the plastic tab from the old battery and stood it up in this spot and slid the battery down, this kept the ribbon from crimping. Only one of these last 3 screws that I did get out, did I put back in. Not sure why they are there as the tabs that hold them are enough to hold the battery. All other screws and battery connector worked like a charm. Replaced the cover, turn it on and Whala!!! Only got a message that said I needed to reset the Date & Time. Got it on the charger now, as new battery only had 75% charge, so fingers crossed it will recharge at a 100% and last longer than the old battery before it's next charge. Good luck everyone!!

Terri C - Reply

Use the battery's plastic pull tab to lift and remove the battery from the upper case.
  • Use the battery's plastic pull tab to lift and remove the battery from the upper case.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

Add Comment

Remove the four 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper edge of the trackpad to the upper case.
  • Remove the four 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper edge of the trackpad to the upper case.

I did this a while ago and I just wanted to add that my trackpad wouldn't click. As soon as I had the battery out I was stuck by how loose the set screw was (big flat torx head screw at the bottom center of the track pad). I had to play with the tension a little bit to get it an acceptable level of play but now my track pad works like new. Thanks iFixit and everyone who contributes to these guides!

John Tipton - Reply

My 00 Phillips head is doing nothing to remove the 1.3 mm screws that hold the trackpad in. Any suggestions? I also tried a 0 and a 000. Don't want to keep playing around in case it strips the screws, but they are really stuck in there...

Amity Higgins - Reply

Use a longer, sturdier screw driver. Either that or the screws have been thread locked in too tight at the factory. Apply more pressure. I mean, way more like, medium-hard pressure. if you don't care that much, apply hard pressure (If you're desperate apply even harder, just not so much it cracks the glass). Pressure is what holds the screwdriver in the screw, prevents it from slipping and stripping the screw! This is probably bad advice... I know.

weeowey weeowey -

Can Absolutely confirm weeowey weeowey's comment. Put your hand under the trackpad and really give the screwdriver some pressure. You might end up damaging a screw, but every replacement trackpad I've ever bought has come with replacement screws.

jbartlet - Reply

Carefully tilt the trackpad away from the keyboard side of the upper case.
  • Carefully tilt the trackpad away from the keyboard side of the upper case.

  • Pull the trackpad away from its opening in the upper case to clear the two mounting tabs on its lower edge.

When remounting the trackpad, ensure you support it from the keyboard side when tightening the screws to ensure it's not crooked.

Stephanie Donley - Reply

Finish Line

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15 Comments

Guide is very helpful...makes the replacement of this part easy. Thanks.

nih4ever7 - Reply

My track pad was working intermittently and having a mind of it's own. Instead of going to a repair shop for a pricey fix, I followed this guide and removed the track pad, cleaned it up and hey presto it's fine now! Thanks for the guide, very easy to follow!!

Andrew von Moeller - Reply

How did you clean the track pad? Did you just clean the connector. I'm also having similar issues, my tack pad starts having a mind of its on randomly after few minutes/hours.

Sapeksh Madan -

dirt can get trapped around or under the trackpad, causing touch malfunctions. removing this dirt usually fixes touch issues and maybe sometimes a click issue if dirt is under the trackpad

weeowey weeowey -

Does anyone have anymore information on the adjustment screw mentioned by John Tipton on Nov 6? I have made some adjustments to it and found tightening it actually locks out the ability of a USB external mouse from operating, and does not correct the problem of the internal track pad click function failing to operate. I suspect adjusting it properly may fix some of our track pad issues, but I have not discovered the proper way of making this adjustment.

paulhjacobs - Reply

My trackpad has stopped working, took the machine apart using above and there was some sticky mess that had been stopping the click from resetting.

Brilliant and much cheaper than the genius bar by using my 99p tri wing screwdriver!

James Pearce - Reply

Thank you. This guide is helpful, thank you for posting. Also thanks for selling the tools that let me do the replacement, I was able to replace the part with no hassle and the laptop is working fine again.

Raymond Santos - Reply

These instructions worked perfectly - took less than an hour to replace the trackpad on our MacBook.

alleno - Reply

This guide is about the 5th or 6th guide I have used and every one of them is very well constructed and documented, I haven't been disappointed with any of them.

Up until this one I had made do with my own miscellaneous tool assortment, making do when I didn't have the exact driver bit or tool. The tri-wing screws in this one encouraged me to get the Pro Tech ToolKit Classic Pro Tech Toolkit and now I kick myself for not getting the proper tools sooner. All through my career as a Remodeling Contractor I maintained the attitude of using the 'right tool for the job'. Well, same holds true here.

Looking forward to my next iFixit job. Thank you iFixit.

buz - Reply

Worked perfectly! Thanks much.

marshmcjunkin - Reply

Great Step by Step easy to Follow Guide I am truly impressed.

I believe I might need special iTools for some of the screws ??

Unitel Design - Reply

So I get a replacement trackpad, it was easy to replace however now I have to push really hard to get an active click (for some reason the right side works better than the left). I have taken the battery out to see if that was the issue (it was not, still didn't register a click with the battery out). What is the easiest way to remove the "setter screw", the T6 screw that adjusts the depth of the click. I need to replace it but I cannot for the life of me get it out of the casing.

Joshua Dodge - Reply

It works great!!! i clean the trackpad!!!

xbox360vs720 - Reply

my track pad was acting ups I pulled it to clean it. works great now.

pjschmitt - Reply

How did you clean..? just clean the connectors..?

wunna -

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