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MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement

What you need

  1. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement, Lower Case: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

  2. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 2, image 2 of 2
    • Wedge your fingers between the lower case and the vent, and lift upward to release the two clips holding the lower case to the upper case.

    • During reassembly, carefully align the lower case and then press it firmly until both clips engage.

    • Remove the lower case.

  3. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement, Battery: step 3, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement, Battery: step 3, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement, Battery: step 3, image 3 of 3
    • Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits.

    • If present, grab the plastic tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the device. For Late-2011 models the battery connector will not have a tab and is simply a plug that inserts straight down into the motherboard--to remove pry the plug straight up.

    • If the plastic tab is missing, use a spudger to pry the connector up from its socket.

    • Pull the tab parallel to the face of the logic board.

  4. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement, Right Fan: step 4, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement, Right Fan: step 4, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement, Right Fan: step 4, image 3 of 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

  5. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the right fan to the logic board.

    • In the Late 2011 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody these screws will be T6 Torx.

  6. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the right fan from the upper case, minding its cable that may get caught.

  7. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: step 7, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the left fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

  8. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the three 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the left fan to the logic board.

    • Remove the left fan from the upper case, minding its cable that may get caught.

  9. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

  10. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 1
    • Before disconnecting the camera cable, a small plastic retainer stuck to the logic board must first be moved out of the way.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the small plastic cable retainer away from the camera cable socket for enough clearance to remove the camera cable.

  11. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 1
    • Pull the camera cable toward the optical drive opening to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • The camera cable socket is very fragile. Do not apply any upward force to this socket, as it may break off the logic board. Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  12. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  13. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the subwoofer & right speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

  14. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the IR sensor ribbon cable socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the IR sensor ribbon cable out of its socket.

  15. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the following four screws:

    • Two 3.5 mm Phillips screws

    • These may be T5 Torx screws in the Early 2011 model

    • Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws

    • Remove both connector shields from the logic board.

  16. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  17. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    • For reassembly, it can be helpful to put a small piece of tape on the keyboard ribbon cable (being careful not to stick any to the contacts), to create a small handle. Align the cable with the socket and gently pull with the tape to fully seat it.

  18. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the express card cage ribbon cable socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the express card cage ribbon cable out of its socket.

  19. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the hard drive cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  20. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the battery indicator cable socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the battery indicator ribbon cable out of its socket.

  21. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 21, image 3 of 3
    • Lift the black plastic flap attached to the display data cable retainer and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the MacBook.

    • Pull the display data cable out of its socket.

    • The display data cable socket is very fragile. Do not lift the connector upward as you disconnect it, as the socket may break off the logic board. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  22. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following eight screws securing the logic board and DC-In board to the upper case:

    • Six 3.2 mm Phillips screws

    • These may be T6 Torx screws on the Early 2011 model.

    • Two 7.6 mm Phillips screws

  23. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 23, image 2 of 2
    • Handle the logic board assembly by its edges only.

    • Lift the logic board assembly from the side nearest the optical drive and lift it away from the upper case.

    • Note that you'll be removing the logic board and DC-in board together.

    • Carefully pull the ports and DC-In board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly, minding any cables that may get caught.

  24. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement, Heat Sink: step 24, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the eight 8.3 mm Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    • Be sure to keep track of the springs held under each of the screws.

  25. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 1
    • Squeeze the heat sink thermal sensor cable between your thumb and the tip of a spudger.

    • Lift the spudger upward to lift the thermal sensor connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • The early 2011 model may not have a thermal sensor connector.

  26. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • If the heat sink appears to be stuck to the logic board after removing all eight screws, it may be helpful to use a spudger to separate the two components.

    • If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the logic board, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

  27. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: step 27, image 1 of 1
    • Pull the DC-In board connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cables parallel to the face of the logic board toward the heat sink.

  28. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two 7.9 mm Phillips screws securing the left speaker to the logic board.

  29. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • Slightly lift the left speaker assembly away from the logic board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the left speaker and microphone connectors out of their sockets on the logic board.

  30. MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement: step 30, image 2 of 2
    • Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip by simultaneously pushing each tab away from the RAM.

    • These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to "pop" up.

    • After the RAM chip has popped up, pull it straight out of its socket.

    • Repeat this process if a second RAM chip is installed.

    • Logic board remains.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

98 other people completed this guide.

13 Comments

This is a good guide if you are wanting to remove your trackpad on the A1297 mid-2010 model. There aren't many guides to do this, so this is a simple route to follow.

Caleb - Reply

Nice, thank you Andrew Bookholt

Jurgen - Reply

Do you know the fix por ethernet in Mac 2011 A1432?

ccsg259 - Reply

Good question! We’ve had good quality Ethernet cables easily slip out of the jacks on several of our MacBook Pros (and TiBook) over the years.

jimmueller -

hi Andrew... My macbook pro retina.. When starting up, the progress bar gors slow, then macbook suddenly shuts down.. But before that, there is a grain/noise of rainbow colors across the hole screen showing up.. .. Do you regocnize the problem and what can it be, the graphic / logic card?

Thank you.

Patrick Ribbsäter - Reply

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