Introduction

Wireless connectivity issues? Use this guide to replace an inoperative AirPort/Bluetooth board.

Image 1/1: Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will - Reply

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke -

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie - Reply

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds -

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato -

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe -

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore -

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric -

I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

Nils -

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger - Reply

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick - Reply

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl -

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero - Reply

To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

1982sketcher -

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK - Reply

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful - Reply

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos - Reply

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi - Reply

There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

Print the repair guide.

Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

Same thing with any part you remove.

splashzoneent - Reply

Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

Tommy Kedar -

Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

nclarke36 -

Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

SOME TRICKS -

1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

cheers- Durango CO!

Dgodrummer - Reply

Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

kevicoll409 - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the lower case and set it aside.
  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

Januar Wiyogo - Reply

Image 1/2: Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.
  • For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not disconnect the battery connector, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.

  • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

nails work pretty well as well...

Sibe Jan Kramer - Reply

At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

Other than that, an excellent guide!

Damienn - Reply

the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

the hard drive changing worked though.

nina - Reply

Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.

Patrick.

Patrick Demaret - Reply

So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

Shelly - Reply

Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

Duke Briscoe -

I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

Jaime Serafim - Reply

My battery won't work after reconnecting it, I made sure everything was done as stated, what can I do to fix this?

r1m111 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the optical drive opening.
  • Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the optical drive opening.

This step did not provide enough direction and is the reason my cable is either broke/not working now. I tried pulling it out of the logic board, as indicated, but it did not budge. I was extremely careful not to damage it, so I gave up on trying to remove it once I saw that it wasn't moving. Lo and behold, once I fired the Macbook up again, the camera is no longer connected. This step should have additional details/explanation as to why the cable may not come out/what to do if it doesn't (I was able to proceed to the next steps by working around the cable, so it didn't even have to be removed as the guide might have you think).

Does anyone know how to properly fix it/where to buy a replacement camera/iSight cable? I would like to fix this if possible.

jackalbert - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.

This step literally ruined my MacBook Pro. The ribbon cable pulled off of the logic board, and will no longer reconnect.

Brian Webb - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the four antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

I found the problem with my wifi: sadly the connector solder joint j4 of the wifi board was not stable enough. now the socket is inside of the connector and not joined with the board. How do I remove the socket from inside of the connector? Is this even possible?

Bodo Tasche - Reply

Image 1/3: De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing. Image 2/3: De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing. Image 3/3: De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.
  • De-route all four antenna cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

  • De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following two screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly to the upper case:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.9 mm Phillips screw

I want to know Lot No. of " 3.9 mm Phillips screw" Step 9.

That was broken... :( Is there anyone who can help me?

YoungWook Jo - Reply

the same problem, do you know which size the screw is??

adambartusz91 -

Looking for replacement screws for the Airport/Bluetooth module. The head stripped and I was able to successfully remove the damaged screw but now I need a replacement. If I could get the part number for the screws I could probably order it. It's the screw on the right in step 9.

MacGyver - Reply

MacGyver, how did you finally remove that screw? Same problem here.

Heinz -

Also curious. Both screws are stripped on mine.

Marc Opperman -

Can i replace a faulty 2011 15" screen with the same one from a 2010 15" model with the same resolution?

Are they interchangeable?

lukas - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel and remove the piece of EMI tape wrapped around the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly.

Where can I get a new piece of EMI tape wrapped around the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly?

Rusty - Reply

Use a blade to pick up this tape as it easily tears. Take your time with it and stick it to a clean plastic surface so it doesn't curl. It'll then go back on OK. I suggest you replace with the longest edge first and carefully wrap the tape back on when replacing.

Rich Moog - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth cable from the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly. Image 2/2: Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth cable from the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth cable away from its socket on the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth cable from the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to dislodge the AirPort/Bluetooth board from its recess in the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing. Image 2/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to dislodge the AirPort/Bluetooth board from its recess in the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing.
  • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to dislodge the AirPort/Bluetooth board from its recess in the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from its aluminum housing.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Before securing the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket to the upper case, be sure the small tab on its left edge is inserted into the small void cut into the black plastic optical drive opening.

Add Comment

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

48 other people completed this guide.

Team

iFixit Member of iFixit

Community

106 Members

4,519 Guides authored

11 Comments

does anybody knows if changing this boards changes too the MAC address of the wifi system??

Thanks.

kaleido5 - Reply

Yes, MAC is associate dand it is unique with each Network interface: wireless or wired.

Luis Vitorio Cargnini -

Hello to the community. I was wondering if i could change my MBP8.2's bluetooth dongle with a one of the newer models (MBP mid 2012 for instance) that support Bluetooth 4.0. Is it possible?

jkyriazidis - Reply

I have a 2011 MBP15. It won't link Bluetooth for Keynote with my new iphone 6+. I understand the reason is I need this upgrade on the MBP.

I'm wondering if doing the upgrade will prevent BT linking between my iPad 2 and my MBP. They can connect now.

Dan Miller - Reply

Hi everybody! I've change my Airport/Bluetooth board on my MacBook Pro early 2011 cause I think my old board was broken. With the old board Bluetooth works correctly but about wifi board when you look on the icon at the up on right of your monitor it says " no wifi board installed" and inside the wifi icon it appear an 'X'

I buy a new board and after installation the problem was not solved.

Yes, Bluetooth work perfectly and now is 4.0 but I still had the problem of wifi. I can't connect in everyplace my MacBookPro. This is a serious problem for me. Anyone can help me?

Vincenzo Paparella - Reply

Hi Vincenzo.. i have the same exact problem as you have. i've also changed both the board and the cable but no luck. https://discussions.apple.com/thread/733... . no-one has still replied to me. maybe u had any answer since January?

fedepe3i -

Hi Vincenzo,

i have exactly your described problem and have NOT yet changed the Wifi-Board.

How´s the status with yours? and fedepe3i?

Won´t go the way if it looks like it doesn´t help at all.

Does someone else have experiences with it?

Thanks, best regards,

Markus

Markus Besch -

Does anybody know if working with SIERRA ?

Thanks by advance

Anode

Clomifuge - Reply

I recently replaced the wifi card and cable and it did not fix the problem. What did fix it was to press down very hard on the connectors. Even with this fix, after carrying the laptop around wifi was lost again with the "no hardware installed" notification. I opened the case again and tightened all screws on the logic board and optical drive. I found a few screws were not fully tightened. I conclude that after 5 years the wifi cable pop off the connector just enough that the logic board can not communicate with the wifi card. After this fix, so far so good, but I would not be surprised if I'm opening the case often to reset the wifi cable.

Christopher Dreyer - Reply

after i installed the board, the wifi icon on top of the computer said, "Wifi: No hardware installed". i checked everything twice and followed direction. please help. thanks

Landon Cao - Reply

So, I just completed this install and now my MBP won't turn on...at all. I was pretty careful about static electricity like I usually am and don't think that I fried anything. Any suggestions? I also changed out the RAM at the same time...

Lex - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 51

Past 7 Days: 353

Past 30 Days: 1,729

All Time: 71,741