Introduction

Use this guide to replace a broken front display glass panel. Removal of the front display glass is required to access the LCD. Although it is not technically necessary to remove the display to access the front display glass, it greatly simplifies the task. This guide is not applicable for anti-glare displays.

Image 1/1: Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

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Image 1/1: Remove the lower case and set it aside.
  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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  • Three Pentalobe screws secure the battery to the upper case. They can be removed with this special driver.

  • If you don't have a Pentalobe driver, a 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver can be used in a pinch. Be sure the head of your flathead screwdriver fits snugly across two of the five "points" of the screw head before trying to break the screw free, as a loose fit will easily strip the screw head.

  • If the head of your screwdriver fits too loosely, find a bigger bit and file it down until it fits snugly before proceeding.

  • You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-7 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However, it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

It really depends on how thick the 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver is. I tried a low-cost tool and almost destroyed the screw. So be carefull

Paul - Reply

Unfortunately, when I added a second hard drive via these instructions, all went well but Bluetooth is now MIA. Can anyone help?

Peter Payne - Reply

I agree...

I have bought a used MacBook Pro, when problems arise, opening Corps was trying to turn the screw, but with poor quality could not turn a screwdriver, only to ruin the screw. Try to buy ifixit Screwdriver set. Good luck to all and thank you ifixit team for such assistance as ifixit.com. Thank you.

remjok - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two exposed five-point Pentalobe screws along the top edge of the battery.

The screws holding my battery were all worn out since an earlier removal. So instead of ruining them even more I put some saran wrap on the tip of my pentalobe driver and gently unscrewed them.

magnus - Reply

I have a problem with these screw. They a completly warn and I need some new ones to fix the new Battery.

Does anyone know which thread it is and which length?

alexanderleith - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to bend back the finger of the "Warning: Do not remove the battery" sticker while you remove the five-point Pentalobe screw hidden underneath.

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Image 1/2: Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet. Image 2/2: Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.
  • Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

  • Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

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Image 1/1: Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.
  • Tilt the battery back enough to access the battery cable connector.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Hold the end of the cable retainer down with one finger while you use the tip of a spudger to slightly lift the other end and rotate it away from the camera cable connector. Image 2/2: Pull the camera cable away from its socket on the logic board.
  • Apple sticks a small strip of clear plastic with adhesive applied to one side to the logic board behind the camera cable connector to keep it in its socket. When moving it out of the way, be sure not to break any surface-mount components off the logic board.

  • Hold the end of the cable retainer down with one finger while you use the tip of a spudger to slightly lift the other end and rotate it away from the camera cable connector.

  • Pull the camera cable away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up.

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Image 1/1:
  • Peel the camera cable off the adhesive securing it to the optical drive.

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Image 1/2: Disconnect the Bluetooth cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket. Image 2/2: Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up.
  • This step is only required if you have an anti-glare display. If you have a glossy display, skip to step 12.

  • Disconnect the Bluetooth cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.

  • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Bluetooth antenna cable from its socket on the board.

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Image 1/2: Remove the two 8 mm Phillips screws securing the Bluetooth/camera cable retainer to the upper case. Image 2/2: One of the screws may remain captive in the Bluetooth/camera cable ground loop. If replacing the display, be sure to transfer this screw to the new unit.
  • This step is only required if you have an anti-glare display.

  • Remove the two 8 mm Phillips screws securing the Bluetooth/camera cable retainer to the upper case.

  • One of the screws may remain captive in the Bluetooth/camera cable ground loop. If replacing the display, be sure to transfer this screw to the new unit.

  • Lift the Bluetooth board/cable retainer assembly out of the upper case.

Stripped one of the screws cause thread lock was used.

BillyRachel1 - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the two 8 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable retainer to the upper case. Image 2/2: One of the screws may remain captive in the camera cable ground loop. If replacing the display, be sure to transfer this screw to the new unit.
  • This step is only for glossy display machines. If you have an anti-glare display, skip this step.

  • Remove the two 8 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable retainer to the upper case.

  • One of the screws may remain captive in the camera cable ground loop. If replacing the display, be sure to transfer this screw to the new unit.

  • Lift the camera cable retainer out of the upper case.

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Image 1/2: This screw may remain captive in the display data cable ground loop. If replacing the display, be sure to transfer this screw to the new unit. Image 2/2: Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.
  • Remove the single 7 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.

  • This screw may remain captive in the display data cable ground loop. If replacing the display, be sure to transfer this screw to the new unit.

  • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket. Image 2/2: Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up from its socket.
  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

  • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up from its socket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the outer two T6 Torx screws securing both display hinges to the upper case (four screws total).

I've found that T7 Torx bit works better than T6.

robcork - Reply

Image 1/1: Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.
  • Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

  • Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.

  • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining 6.5 mm Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

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Image 1/1: Remove the last remaining 6 mm T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.
  • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining 6 mm T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

T7 Torx bit works better than T6. The T6 strips the screw.

robcork - Reply

Image 1/3: Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case. Image 2/3: Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught. Image 3/3: Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
  • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

  • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

  • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

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Image 1/2: Before starting, be sure to clean the display glass with lint-free cloth moistened with a mild solution; it will make the suction cup adhere better, and will make checking for dust on reassembly easier Image 2/2: With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the outer black border near the upper right corner of the glass panel.
  • In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the outer black border around the underside of the front glass panel to the display. The area the adhesive is applied to is shown in red in the second picture.

  • Before starting, be sure to clean the display glass with lint-free cloth moistened with a mild solution; it will make the suction cup adhere better, and will make checking for dust on reassembly easier

  • With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the outer black border near the upper right corner of the glass panel.

  • Always aim the heat gun away from the soft rubber strip around the display glass. Heating the rubber will cause it to melt slightly, turning its finish from matte to glossy. Touching overheated rubber can cause it to permanently deform.

  • Due to the heat applied, it is normal for a layer of condensation to develop on the inside of the glass panel and/or the outside of the LCD. It can be removed with glass cleaner once the glass is separated from the display.

Another caution is needed - the heat gun is capable of discoloring the LCD panel (giving uneven coloration) if it overheats. This is possible on the low setting. Proceed cautiously, heating in increments until the glass releases.

Alden Stradling - Reply

I was wondering the same, is absolutely necessary to disassemble the screen to change the glass? Can I jump to step 21?

caholzmann - Reply

To change just the glass I used a hair dryer it gives off enough heat to do the job. Stand the computer up on its cover with the key board standing up.start at a corner heat the adhesive as you go along. I Put credit cards in as I went along so the adhesive doesn't stick again. take your time . Its easy.

Robert Lachman - Reply

  • With the panel sufficiently heated, fasten a heavy-duty suction cup near the upper right corner of the display glass.

  • Don't fasten the suction cup on top of the rubber strip around the edge of the display glass.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • Slowly and gently pull the corner of the display glass up off the display assembly.

  • If only the top edge of the glass lifts up (as seen in the third picture), repeat steps one and two until you can lift up the corner of the panel.

Sufficiently heated is a meaningless phrase here. Is it two minutes? Three? Fifteen? An hour? I have tried doing this for increasing amounts of time while avoiding doing damage to the machine, and nothing is working. Sufficient heating needs definition.

Keith McComb - Reply

Hi Keith, the key here is that you want to warm the adhesive that's spread thoroughly behind the masked-black area of the glass around the screen to release, but not put enough heat at the rubber gasket that seals the closed top lid to the base. Too much heat, too soon, will deform the rubber. Too much and you'll never get the glass to release. The 2x that I have done this, however, even with sufficient (and significant) heat, I remember the glass taking a surprising amount of leverage to pull clear. A tactic: using your heat gun warm all the sides of the display from the front, in a circulating/racetrack fashion - about 20 rpm. After 30sec, focus on the left and top sides, seesawing from bottom left, to top left, to top right, and back. Do that at the same pace, about 5-10 passes. Then spend about 10 sec waving over the whole top left corner. That should get enough heat to enough places to help the glass separate to start placing picks, and you can continue to heat the margins as you progress.

johnkimmel - Reply

Image 1/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the front glass to the display. Image 2/3: Pry up the glass panel a few inches away from the upper right corner along the top and right edges of the display. Image 3/3: Pry up the glass panel a few inches away from the upper right corner along the top and right edges of the display.
  • Gently lift the corner of the display glass enough to insert a spudger between it and the display assembly.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the front glass to the display.

  • Pry up the glass panel a few inches away from the upper right corner along the top and right edges of the display.

Be careful with the spudger and the soft rubber strip around the glass. Since the rubber strip has been heated up by the heat gun, it is easily smushed and deformed by the spudger.

robcork - Reply

Be patient and work slowly or else you will crack the glass like me.

BillyRachel1 - Reply

I can not get the glass to come up despite two tries and dicsoloring the LCD with too much heat. Why can't I get the glass to budge at all?

bollucks66 - Reply

It is better , instead of using the suction cup , to use small flat end spudger . The suction cup should be used first to detach the window from the gasket , not furthermore as it may brake the glass.

Thierry de Montblanc - Reply

Image 1/2: Attach a suction cup along the right side of the front glass panel. Image 2/2: Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.
  • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the right side of the front glass panel.

  • Attach a suction cup along the right side of the front glass panel.

  • Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.

  • Continue working along the right edge of the front display glass until it is separated from the display.

  • It may be helpful to use a guitar pick or another thin plastic object to keep the upper right corner of the front glass panel from sticking back down to the display assembly.

If you don't have a guitar pick, playing cards works too.

robcork - Reply

I used old credit cards

Robert Lachman - Reply

Image 1/2: Attach a suction cup near the top edge of the glass display panel and use it to pull the glass panel up off the display. Image 2/2: Work along the top edge of the glass panel, carefully using the flat end of a spudger to separate the adhesive if necessary.
  • Use your heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the top edge of the glass display panel.

  • Attach a suction cup near the top edge of the glass display panel and use it to pull the glass panel up off the display.

  • Work along the top edge of the glass panel, carefully using the flat end of a spudger to separate the adhesive if necessary.

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Image 1/2: Attach a suction cup near the upper left corner of the glass display panel. Image 2/2: Pull up on the suction cup and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the glass display panel out of the display assembly.
  • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.

  • Attach a suction cup near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.

  • Pull up on the suction cup and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the glass display panel out of the display assembly.

  • Once the upper left corner has been separated from the display, it may be helpful to use a guitar pick or another thin plastic object to keep the glass from sticking back down to the display assembly.

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Image 1/2: Attach a suction cup along the left side of the front glass panel. Image 2/2: Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.
  • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the left side of the front glass panel.

  • Attach a suction cup along the left side of the front glass panel.

  • Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.

  • Continue working along the left edge of the front display glass until it is separated from the display.

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Image 1/2: If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to free the bottom edge of the glass display panel from the display assembly. Image 2/2: Before reassembling, be sure to clean both the inside of the glass display panel and the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is on.
  • Now that the top, left, and right edges of the glass are free from the display, slowly lift the top edge of the glass panel and gently rotate it out of the display.

  • If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to free the bottom edge of the glass display panel from the display assembly.

  • Before reassembling, be sure to clean both the inside of the glass display panel and the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is on.

If you will be reusing the glass, with new adhesive, then you will want to remove the old adhesive. This is a bit of a pain, as alcohol doesn't work, and you need to be careful to avoid damaging the black screen border, which is black paint on the back (adhesive) side of the glass.

To remove the adhesive, note that it is actually a thin film with rubber cement on both sides. First, use a razor to carefully pull up one corner of the film and gently peel it off of the glass. If you are gentle and slow, the underlying adhesive may also come off; if not, then rubbing with your finger or a hard rubber eraser will do the trick.

griscom - Reply

what to do when new glass starts to peel after a week ?

labig - Reply

If this is a rubber cement based glue, then would rubber solvent / thinner like N-Heptane help the removal process without damaging the black paint ?

Sandman619 - Reply

Image 1/2: Do not forget to stick the camera bracket down to the new front display glass before reassembly. Image 2/2: Do not forget to stick the camera bracket down to the new front display glass before reassembly.
  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the display glass and the camera bracket, and run it around the camera bracket to separate it from the display glass.

  • Do not forget to stick the camera bracket down to the new front display glass before reassembly.

This step is only needed if replacing the glass. If you are only replacing the LCD, there is no need to do this step

robcork - Reply

Image 1/3: To reconnect the cable, first use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of foam tape over the camera cable ZIF socket. Image 2/3: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the ZIF cable retainer on the camera cable socket. Image 3/3: Insert the camera cable into its socket on the camera board and use the tip of a spudger to snap down the ZIF cable retainer, locking the cable in place.
  • During the glass removal process, the camera cable may stick to the adhesive on the glass panel, disconnecting it from the camera board as the panel is lifted. If your camera cable is still connected to the camera board, skip this step.

  • To reconnect the cable, first use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of foam tape over the camera cable ZIF socket.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the ZIF cable retainer on the camera cable socket.

  • Insert the camera cable into its socket on the camera board and use the tip of a spudger to snap down the ZIF cable retainer, locking the cable in place.

  • Reapply the piece of tape covering the camera cable socket.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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3 Comments

I just removed, cleaned, and replaced the display glass on my MBP without removing the display, and it turned out to be much easier, including removing the bottom edge of the glass. Perhaps this was because the original glass adhesive was failing, with most of the top edge adhesive no longer doing its job, and in most cases removing the display will make the task easier. However, I'd suggest doing the glass only first; if you find you can't remove the bottom edge of the glass then you can remove the display and finish the job.

griscom - Reply

I second trying without removing. I have done it both ways, and if you don't have to do a near complete tear down, avoid it. More importantly they left out a couple important steps before reassembling. Clean, clean, clean the frame before laying down adhesive. Also, after install heating a bit can help to set it.

Dylan Smith - Reply

If you don't have a penta lobe driver, I recommend buying one. The flathead screwdriver method mentioned here and elsewhere didn't work for me and resulted in a stripped screw head, which was a real pain to get out. I found a penta lobe driver locally and avoided ruining more screws.

John Johnson - Reply

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