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Introduction

Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit kit with adhesive remover. The adhesive remover is designed to weaken the glue securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.

iFixit adhesive remover is flammable. Follow this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics. Follow all instructions and take care where you apply the adhesive remover.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Reply

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Reply

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Reply

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Reply

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Reply

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Reply

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Reply

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Reply

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Reply

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Reply

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Reply

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Reply

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Reply

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you begin. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Four 4.7 mm screws

    • Two 6.6 mm screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    These screws are TINY and different lengths. I highly recommend purchasing the recommended magnetic project mat.

    Steve - Reply

  2. Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes. Lift up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.
    • Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

    • Lift up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.

  3. Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

  4. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip.
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip.

  5. Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) just enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.
    • Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) just enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.

    • Two additional hidden clips near the middle of the cover may pop free at this point, if they haven't already.

    • Don't lift very far and don't try to remove the lower case yet.

  6. Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. Pull first at one corner, then the other. Pull to the side—not up.
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    This step drew blood. Darn you Apple!

    Kyle B - Reply

    I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.

    Athanassios Diacakis - Reply

    If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.

    Adrian Brown - Reply

    I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!

    wmetzgerusa - Reply

    Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.

    tonygreenfield - Reply

    I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.

    stevanuscg - Reply

    Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.

    Indawg Wetrust - Reply

    Thanks Indawg Wetrust, Made it very easy!

    Louis C - Reply

    They, iFixit, are not kidding. Quite a bit of force needed.

    Norm Hils - Reply

  7. Remove the lower case. To reinstall the lower case:
    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips. You should feel and hear them click into place.

    I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross

    Ross Elkins - Reply

  8. Peel up and remove the large rectangular battery board cover, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery. If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.
    • Peel up and remove the large rectangular battery board cover, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.

    • If the cover doesn't seat securely during reassembly, try rotating it 180 degrees. It must be oriented correctly in order for the adhesive pads underneath to contact the board screws.

    What is the though behind this step? I have replace my trackpad before, and I did not do this step. At the time, there was no guide. As a result, I’m wondering how this changes/or if it is necessary for the repair process.

    Anthony Bleyer - Reply

    It’s necessary in order to disconnect the battery. Always disconnect the battery before making repairs.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I found my one of my fan making some noise, when open the bottom of my Mac I see this piece floating over the fan. Trying to put it back where it goes but don’t seem to stick anymore and move around. Does this piece is really necessary or I can simply remove it or order a new one from you?

    Alexandre Bolduc - Reply

    It should be pretty easy to reattach. Put a dab of rubber cement or a bit of double-sided tape on top of each of the screws underneath the cover, press the cover down, and close up your MacBook. It should stay put. Don’t use superglue or anything else that will harden over the screw heads and make it impossible to fit a driver in there later.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Do you know if this piece is necessary. I lost mine.

    scoop scoop - Reply

    My Macbook doesn’t appear to even have this piece.

    Nate Bartlett - Reply

  9. Peel back the tape covering the battery board data cable connector. The tape may not detach completely; just peel it back enough to access the connector.
    • Peel back the tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape may not detach completely; just peel it back enough to access the connector.

    Wow, mine peeled up from the board. Now I have some board level soldering. Any part number on the connector for this cable on the board.

    Mark Mata - Reply

    I second that; does anybody know where this battery board data cable connector can be purchased?

    Tim - Reply

    The replacement battery did not come with the “tape” in this cable so it was very difficult to reinsert the cable into the zif socket. Now I can’t get the replacement battery to charge.

    J D - Reply

    I have the same issue, My battery is not charging. Did you figure out how to get your battery to charge?

    Jeremy Smith -

    In my case, the original replacement was faulty. iFixIt sent an RMA without hesitation, and I am happy to report that the new one works fine. But also recheck this step and steps 13/14.

    J D -

    Note that the tape covering that comes on the OEM battery is not included in the battery sent from iFixIt. I removed it from the old and attached it to the new, but it does not “re-stick” very well, so it’s rather difficult to re-insert. Be careful, the ribbon is fragile.

    J D - Reply

    I was able to reinsert the cable easily a number of times with the nice Ifixit angled tweezers as the ziff connectors tiny latch came off! I ended up using a bit of Pliobond 25, contact cement to mke sure the data cable doesn’t move. A future repair will just pull off or at most need an xacato blade knife to slit the rubbery cement. Ross

    Ross Elkins - Reply

    REALLY important. You need to really pull this back in snug for things to work when you reassemble.

    Michael Stelzner - Reply

    I didn’t seem to have any tape covering it, I just proceeded to the next step

    Nathan Skene - Reply

    My battery board connecter is broken. Let me know where can I get these cables.?

    Lalitha Prasad - Reply

  10. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

    Mein Sicherungsbügel ist abgebrochen, oder zumindest nicht mehr auf dem ZIF-Stecker. Ist dieser Sicherungsbügel sehr wichtig, oder kann ich das Kabel dennoch zurück stecken?

    Fabio Jock - Reply

    Hallo Fabio, wahrscheinlich wird das Kabel ohne den Bügel nicht mehr halten. Das Zurückstecken geht, aber es bleibt nur sehr fragil drin.

    Fabian Neidhardt -

    Sie sollten in der Lage sein, das Kabel wieder anzuschließen und mit einem guten Klebeband abzudichten.

    mark - Reply

    My zif connector was already open. It apparently never got closed during manufacture. Being so tiny this made it difficult to see why there was nothing to pry up with the spudger. Once I put my finger on top of it I realized the flap was already verticle.

    Ian Simmons - Reply

    lock flap broke when I was about to close it, is there any way to fix it? The computer can't find the battery

    Gabriel - Reply

  11. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket. Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

    If this breaks, what’s the risk to the computer?

    Jose Lopez - Reply

    I tried powering mine on after my zif connector socket broke. It made bad electrical noises. I had water damage at one point and cleaned the unit very well but never replaced the battery. Through excesive, a hot and bad battery, or water damaged weakening the area mine came right off with the tape when i peeled it up. Im working on finding the part and will attempt to solder it back. Of course i still need a battery which ours was swollen. After water damage it worked great for over a year though.

    Mark Mata - Reply

    Mine broke and now the Macbook will not power on, this was after a battery replacement, the Macbook powered up afterwards, but after transporting it, it would not power up. I removed the back cover and noticed the battery board cover was missing and the zif gate for the battery data connector was half off.

    Charles Braxton - Reply

    Same here, I broke the cable which was soldered on the mainboard. I tried to hold it on place with a tape, but I couldn‘t charge my macbook though. Then I tried to solder it and I also failed. I wish I had read the comments before :/

    Sebastian Fritsch - Reply

    I couldn‘t find the fpc 6 pin connector with 0,5 mm grid. However I managed to connect the flex cable directly on the mother board with 0,3 mm isolation filament! It was tough but I‘m so happy that it works again :)

    Sebastian Fritsch - Reply

    Would you be able to give a little instruction on how you were able to make this work? I’m super curious and need a solution to the same issue.

    Tim -

    Anybody know where this connected can be purchased? Mine completely snapped to pieces the moment I touched it.

    Tim - Reply

  12. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

  13. Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    I tossed a piece of tape on the connector just to be safe.

    Kyle B - Reply

    wondering if i didn’t heed this warning close enough. mac not powering on. only black screen with battery and lightning bolt beneath it. What happens if this connector makes contact?

    ONYCHA HAZEL - Reply

    im in the exact same boat right now.

    Was everything okay in your case?

    Anthony Gasbarro -

    Same here until I realized that I never reconnected the tiny power button/Touch ID connector in step 31! It’s underneath the headphone cable jack from step 30. Mine was hiding under the board and I carefully fished it out with a tweezers.

    ajm0824 -

    Mine will power on, but will not charge.

    J D - Reply

    Hi, did you manage to fix this? Ive got the same issue sadly.

    Cooldude2222 -

  14. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the trackpad cable's cover bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the trackpad cable's cover bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    T3 doesn’t seem to fit, somehow on my a1707 the driver doesn’t grip and it just slips on the screw.

    What am I doing wrong?

    I don’t have a T2 to try, what can I do?

    Luciano Colosio - Reply

    I managed to get a holt of a T2, but still no luck: there are a bunch of screws that seem to be T2 but everything I stick inside them just spins around and doesn’t grip :(

    Luciano Colosio - Reply

    T4 worked perfectly

    DonPanchito - Reply

  15. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

    I managed to pry the metal bit with screw holes off first. Whoops.

    Nathan Skene - Reply

  16. Apply mild heat to the trackpad ribbon cable to soften the adhesive securing it to the battery.
    • Apply mild heat to the trackpad ribbon cable to soften the adhesive securing it to the battery.

    • You can use an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun, but be careful not to overheat the battery. The cable should be warm, but not too hot to touch.

    I used a hairdrier. Barely needed to hold it there for 20 seconds before I could peel it off.

    Nathan Skene - Reply

  17. Carefully peel the trackpad cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way. Don't fold or tear the cable. If you have trouble, don't force it—apply more heat and try again. Don't fold or tear the cable. If you have trouble, don't force it—apply more heat and try again.
    • Carefully peel the trackpad cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.

    • Don't fold or tear the cable. If you have trouble, don't force it—apply more heat and try again.

    thin ifixit pick opener sliding gently/slowly underneath ribbon cable towards the front edge of mbp did the trick for me. no need for heat.

    lamajr - Reply

    In my case the sticky part of the track pad ribbon remained on the battery. So after replacement the trackpad ribbon does not have a sticker to stay on the battery.

    Neil Robinson - Reply

    Did it work all right without the adhesive there?

    That happened to me too! I thought that was what was supposed to happen, until I read your comment. I managed to peel it off the battery, but before I could catch it it rolled up into a tight ball. I got about half of it unrolled and onto the ribbon.

    rileybk -

  18. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 13 screws securing the trackpad assembly: Nine 5.8 mm screws
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 13 screws securing the trackpad assembly:

    • Nine 5.8 mm screws

    • Four 4.9 mm screws

    • These screws look very similar, so don't mix them up.

    • These screws can loosen over time due to the clicking action on the Force Touch trackpad. Adding a little blue threadlocker as you install them can help keep them secure.

    • Install the screws loosely and check the trackpad alignment before tightening them down.

  19. Swing the display open slightly, but keep the MacBook upside-down. The trackpad assembly should separate and lay flat on the display. Gently feed the trackpad's ribbon cable through its slot in the chassis. Carefully note the correct slot for the trackpad cable during reassembly—it goes through the narrow slot alongside the battery, not the bigger slot near the MacBook Pro's front edge.
    • Swing the display open slightly, but keep the MacBook upside-down. The trackpad assembly should separate and lay flat on the display.

    • Gently feed the trackpad's ribbon cable through its slot in the chassis.

    • Carefully note the correct slot for the trackpad cable during reassembly—it goes through the narrow slot alongside the battery, not the bigger slot near the MacBook Pro's front edge.

    WARNING - READ THE NEXT STEP NOW OR YOU WILL LOSE THE WASHERS. Please update this with BIG RED LETTERS in the step to indicate what is about to happen, or you’ll skip forward and the washers will fly everywhere. I’m really upset right now.

    Jason Sherron - Reply

    I would add step 21 to step 20. The warning about potentially losing the washers should be part of this step, not a separate one.

    fippolito - Reply

    this step is BS, I didn’t remove the touch bar, you just need to remove enough screws on the upper board to be able to pull the battery plastic frame and put it gain…

    what a loss of time!

    a m - Reply

  20. As you remove the trackpad assembly, be very careful not to lose the nine small metal washers resting on the screw posts. (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.) Remove the trackpad assembly. Remove the trackpad assembly.
    • As you remove the trackpad assembly, be very careful not to lose the nine small metal washers resting on the screw posts. (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.)

    • Remove the trackpad assembly.

    They are not kidding about the jumping washers.

    Kent Folsom - Reply

    Pro Tip: put your magnetic mat under the trackpad as you slide it out to catch the tiny washers. Alternatively, a magnetic tool bowl, or a terry cloth towel so the lighter guys can’t get far if they fall.

    Kent Folsom - Reply

    Can I change the battery with out removing the trackpad and logic board?

    Mateo Munoz - Reply

    yes

    I did it, you just have you remove enough screws on the board to bend it upwards in order to pull the battery frame that’s it…

    my mac is working fine

    a m -

    yep lost a washer in the process

    Jason Sherron - Reply

  21. Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the keyboard connector cover bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the keyboard connector cover bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    I’m just curious - why did the entire logic board have to come out in order the replace the battery? It seems like after the trackpad you could skip to battery removal. Is it to protect the board? Thanks!

    Todd Wood - Reply

    I am also wondering if it is necessary to remove the logic board. I’m just looking to remove a leaking battery from my macbook pro and safely discard of it while I get a replacement as it is releasing some chemical smell which I assume must NOT be good for one’s health.

    Jean Lescure - Reply

    Sehr geehrtes IFIXIT Team, bitte um Info warum für den Ausbau des Akkus auch das Bord ausgebaut werden muss? Danke für Ihre Antwort!

    Josef Lix - Reply

    As far as I can tell there is a part of the battery that is below the logic board. It’s the thin black stripes next to the battery pcb on either side. You can see it after the logic board is removed on step 50.

    Bhav - Reply

    Actually, a T4 Torx driver works perfectly.

    DonPanchito - Reply

    T3 stripped mine, should have used T4. Screw Extracting Pliers to the rescue.

    Peter Eltgroth - Reply

    Hands up everyone that’s never buying an apple product again?

    Nathan Skene - Reply

  22. Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

  23. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable. Remove the display board flex cable cover.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.

    • Remove the display board flex cable cover.

  24. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector. Remove the bracket from the display board cable connector.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.

    • Remove the bracket from the display board cable connector.

    This appears to be a T4 not a T3

    Rich Murfitt - Reply

    They are definitely T3 ;) But not all driver kits are created equal. If your T4 works better for you, go with that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I concur the the T3 didn’t work, T4 worked great.

    David Balogh - Reply

    't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.

    jinwoo KIM - Reply

    The bracket of the display board connector in my case is glued. So wasnt able to remove it.

    Neil Robinson - Reply

  25. Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable. Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable.
    • Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable.

  26. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total). Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total).
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total).

  27. Remove both hinge covers. Remove both hinge covers. Remove both hinge covers.
    • Remove both hinge covers.

  28. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch ID and headphone jack cable connectors. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch ID and headphone jack cable connectors.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Again, a T4 worked here, not T3.

    David Balogh - Reply

    't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.

    jinwoo KIM - Reply

    it’s a T4, not T3. Correct this mistake.

    erwancompes - Reply

    T3 worked for me. MBP 2016.

    Gustavo Guida - Reply

  29. Disconnect the headphone jack cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the headphone jack cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the headphone jack cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

  30. Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

  31. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.3 mm screw securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer connector.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.3 mm screw securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer connector.

  32. Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board.

    • Remove the bracket.

  33. Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer cable by prying it straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  34. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the bracket for the Touch Bar display cable connector. Remove the bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the bracket for the Touch Bar display cable connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    It’s T4, not T3.

    erwancompes - Reply

    Completely stripped the screws on this one - T3 seemed too small, but T4 was too big.. Any way to get replacement screws for this step?

    Benjamin Schemmel - Reply

    T4 worked better for me than the T3. I would suggest trying both lightly as the T3 might strip the screw for you. be careful here… T3 almost stripped the screw.

    Hung Nguyen - Reply

    T3 from the kit I bought here works fine for all the steps where they call for T3. So far!

    rileybk - Reply

    T3 from the ifixit kit works fine for me

    Nathan Skene - Reply

  35. Disconnect the Touch Bar display cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the Touch Bar display cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the Touch Bar display cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

  36. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 1.3 mm screws securing the Thunderbolt flex cable covers: Two screws on the left
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 1.3 mm screws securing the Thunderbolt flex cable covers:

    • Two screws on the left

    • Two more on the right

    Amazingly, the top right screw here was not a T3 at all but a T4.

    tomputnam7 - Reply

    Top screw head seems to be stripped. Tried various other sizes to no avail.

    Les Hartzman - Reply

    Top screw stripped for me. Stuck here. Can’t progress.

    Jason Sherron - Reply

    Noticed the screws of left bracket of the thunderbolt connector didnt tighten into place (after it goes in and tightens it freely rotates). The right one did. Although both are scecured and working.

    Neil Robinson - Reply

    When reassembling you need to push down snug to make sure the thunderbolt ports work.

    Michael Stelzner - Reply

  37. Disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board. Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan. Gently push the flex cable connector off to the side so it doesn't interfere with logic board removal.
    • Disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan.

    • Gently push the flex cable connector off to the side so it doesn't interfere with logic board removal.

  38. Repeat to disconnect the Thunderbolt flex cable connector on the opposite side. Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging. Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging.
    • Repeat to disconnect the Thunderbolt flex cable connector on the opposite side.

    • Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging.

    One speaker had some adhesive. Careful prying!

    Dylan James - Reply

  39. Disconnect the two speaker connectors by sliding the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable near its connector. Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers. Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers.
    • Disconnect the two speaker connectors by sliding the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable near its connector.

    • Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers.

    BE VERY CAREFULL WITH THE SMALLER SPEAKER CONNECTOR!

    The instructions say “TWIST”… DO NOT &&^&^$^ TWIST IT!!!

    I broke the connector off the PCB.. now the left speaker is gone forever!

    robert - Reply

    DO NOT TWIST

    The connectors are very delicate, you must use the spudger as a lever to lift the cable.

    May be the worst part of the whole procedure

    Paolo Zangheri - Reply

    Both of the connector cables were secured with adhesive for me. Had to take my time and work gently to loosen.

    Alfred Haas - Reply

    Which ended up screwing me when reinstalling. The adhesive made it really tough to slide connector in. I ended up breaking the socket connection to board. No more left speaker!!! Argh!

    Alfred Haas -

    I broke off the left speaker connector. I wonder if I can solder it back on. Anyone know??

    Michael Stelzner - Reply

    When putting these back, these seem to just be pushed down from above, rather than slotting in from the back

    Nathan Skene - Reply

    Add me to the Broken Connector club ?. No right speaker for me. Have to think how I can soldier some pins on to fix the connector, or just leave it alone so I don’t make it worse. I should have read thru the instructions and all the comments. Oh well. Shoulda wouldas

    Robert Lee - Reply

  40. Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket. Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket.
    • Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket.

  41. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  42. Disconnect the microphone by pulling its cable toward the fan until it releases from its socket. If possible, pull on the tape attached to the cable, rather than the cable itself, to reduce the risk of damage.
    • Disconnect the microphone by pulling its cable toward the fan until it releases from its socket.

    • If possible, pull on the tape attached to the cable, rather than the cable itself, to reduce the risk of damage.

    Be VERY careful fishing that circuit/cable back into the socket. I was using regular tweezers that have a sharp edge. It scratched the circuit under the black plastic sleeve (which is thin). That cable kills your internal mic (which Ifixit does sell a replacement for).

    Jerod Waggoner - Reply

  43. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

  44. Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket. Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it. To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
    • Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

    That is the hardest part. Can’t get one of the three plugs back into position.

    Stefan Scholtz - Reply

    Stefan is right. Mine proved impossible and I think I smashed (yes, smashed) the “sockets” they are supposed to “snap” back into (they didn’t for me). For now, they are taped down (and wifi works well), but looking into soldering these if it won’t ruin the connection.

    Jerod Waggoner - Reply

    Use microscope and fine tweezers.

    Jo Luyckx - Reply

    Do not force them. they snap on with little effort when they are aligned just right. Be patient.

    J D - Reply

    Takes quite a bit of realigntment repositioning to place these back.

    Neil Robinson - Reply

    These are VERY tricky to reconnect. ADVICE: Push down on these at and angle and then snap them in and slowly rotate them to get them to stick. It took me FOREVER to figure this out.

    Michael Stelzner - Reply

  45. Remove the ten screws securing the logic board assembly: Two 2.8 mm T3 Torx screws
    • Remove the ten screws securing the logic board assembly:

    • Two 2.8 mm T3 Torx screws

    • Five 2.9 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T8 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T8 Torx screw

    • During reassembly, install these screws only loosely. Adjust the board position if necessary until all the connectors line up, and then tighten the screws.

    I needed a T9 for the green 3.9 mm “T8” Torx screw

    Nicholas Waller - Reply

    My 3.9mm upper left screw (green) is T8 Torx, while the upper right 3.8mm (blue) screw is a T9 Torx. Note that both are not included in the kit sold by iFixit for this repair @jeffsu

    Alessandro Di Clemente - Reply

    EDIT: actually the T8 is included in the kit description but was not inside the one I got

    Alessandro Di Clemente -

    I had 4 bits in my driver set that I got. One was the T8 that others seemed to have been missing. Maybe they realized this and added to the new kits.

    Scott Shore - Reply

    No T8 in my kit. Now I have a half disassembled macbook pro I can’t finish. Sweet.

    Jamie Wilkinson - Reply

    On my A1707, the Green and Blue are T10 (although T8 and T9 do ‘fit’ but with slack).

    Shawn Marston - Reply

  46. Peel up (but don't remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans. If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate. If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.
    • Peel up (but don't remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans.

    • If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.

  47. The logic board assembly is a tight fit, but you can make it easier to remove by inserting a spudger under the left edge and levering it up slightly. There should be no resistance as you remove the logic board. Check all cables carefully and hold them out of the way if needed so they don't snag on the board.
    • The logic board assembly is a tight fit, but you can make it easier to remove by inserting a spudger under the left edge and levering it up slightly.

    • There should be no resistance as you remove the logic board. Check all cables carefully and hold them out of the way if needed so they don't snag on the board.

    • Lifting from the left side, remove the logic board.

    A headcount for all the connectors that need to be exposed when reassembling would be really useful here. I count 15. If you have less you’ve missed something.

    Dom - Reply

    This connection is VERY easy to forget when you reassemble. If you go to startup your computer and you see the battery icon but the computer will not start with the power button, this is the connection you missed when reassembly. Drove me nuts until I figured that one out!

    deancuebas - Reply

  48. When reinstalling the logic board assembly: Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed. Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.
    • When reinstalling the logic board assembly:

    • Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed.

    • Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.

    • Verify that no cables get trapped under the board as you install it. Check each marked location carefully.

  49. Remove the two screws securing the battery board: 2016-2017 models: Use a T5 Torx driver to remove both 3.5 mm screws.
    • Remove the two screws securing the battery board:

    • 2016-2017 models: Use a T5 Torx driver to remove both 3.5 mm screws.

    • 2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws.

    On my mid 2018 15.3” i9 MBP the battery board screws were PL1

    Brian Eustis - Reply

    On my mid 2018 15.3 i9 MBP the keyboard cable is farther to the left (as shown at Step 23)! When reinstalling, make sure it is under the battery cable and its connector sticking up between the battery cable and the aluminum battery frame.

    Wolf Naegeli - Reply

    So if I’ve understood correctly, almost all the above could have been skipped if apple just made these two screws accessible? Wow, just wow

    Nathan Skene - Reply

  50. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can damage the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display, as well as the plastic keyboard keys. To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work. Additionally, use painter's tape to seal off the area under the trackpad as best you can. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can damage the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display, as well as the plastic keyboard keys.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    • Additionally, use painter's tape to seal off the area under the trackpad as best you can. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.

    I didn’t have any solution and was hesitant to simply use an Isopropyl Alcohol solution of any concentration let along subject my electronics to liquid and aluminum foil, so I simply took a card (something between a metrocard and credit card… i used a rewards card) and brute forced the adhesive while dry (making sure to direct the bulk of the force laterally and not down into the screen below and mostly wiggle back and forth instead of straight on). About 10 minutes later with a sore hand it worked just fine and avoided steps 52-62. (You may want to try the string method detailed in step 62 if stubborn and after started with card.

    ajm0824 - Reply

  51. To control the flow of adhesive remover, raise the back edge (hinge side) of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block. To control the flow of adhesive remover, raise the back edge (hinge side) of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.
    • To control the flow of adhesive remover, raise the back edge (hinge side) of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.

  52. Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  53. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

  54. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the two battery cells on the right, starting along the edge nearest the fan. You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the two battery cells on the right, starting along the edge nearest the fan.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

  55. Add a few more drops of adhesive remover in between the two battery cells on the right, so that it flows down underneath the lower battery cell. Wait about two minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate and weaken the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.
    • Add a few more drops of adhesive remover in between the two battery cells on the right, so that it flows down underneath the lower battery cell.

    • Wait about two minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate and weaken the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.

  56. After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery, starting from the lower edge of the bottom, right-most cell. This shouldn't require much force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate. Try not to deform the battery. A damaged or punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
    • After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery, starting from the lower edge of the bottom, right-most cell.

    • This shouldn't require much force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate.

    • Try not to deform the battery. A damaged or punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

    • Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way underneath both battery cells.

    • Lift the cells to fully separate the adhesive, but don't try to remove them from your MacBook yet.

    • Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cells to prevent the adhesive from re-bonding as you proceed to the next step.

    I had a great deal of difficulty loosening the batteries. The solvent seemed to have little effect on the adhesive strips. Despite efforts, I deformed the batteries trying to get them free.

    Kent Folsom - Reply

    I also had a great deal of difficulty. I had to apply the adhesive remover 5 times before I could wiggle the card underneath the first battery sections. And it left the adhesive on the computer case; it did not remove the adhesive along with the battery sections.

    rileybk - Reply

    Took me three applications of adhesive remover. Think it really is about wiggling though.

    Nathan Skene - Reply

    It took me about 10 minutes or so to remove all battery modules. I used the adhesive remover as per the guide and also used the card with the corner doing most of the penetration instead of the blunt end. I also would gently wiggle the battery up and down while I applied more adhesive remover to allow it a better chance of getting underneath. BTW, my adhesive strips ran left to right and not back to front on the outer batteries, so I would think it would be more ideal to put the adhesive remover down the left and right sides of the outer batteries. The inner batteries (under trackpad) adhesive strips ran front to back. Keep this in mind when using the remover to loosen them up.

    Steven Wonder - Reply

  57. Switch to the left side of the MacBook Pro, and repeat the previous step to separate two more battery cells. Leave the second plastic card in place temporarily. Leave the second plastic card in place temporarily.
    • Switch to the left side of the MacBook Pro, and repeat the previous step to separate two more battery cells.

    • Leave the second plastic card in place temporarily.

  58. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the top edges of the two center battery cells. There are openings in the chassis underneath these two cells, which allow the adhesive remover to leak through and may prevent it from fully penetrating. Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover along the side edges if needed.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the top edges of the two center battery cells.

    • There are openings in the chassis underneath these two cells, which allow the adhesive remover to leak through and may prevent it from fully penetrating.

    • Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover along the side edges if needed.

  59. After a couple minutes, retrieve your first plastic card and insert one corner under the top edge of one of the center battery cells. Wiggle it from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell until all the adhesive separates. If you have trouble, don't use excessive force and don't deform the battery. Apply more adhesive remover and try again, or skip down two steps for an alternate method.
    • After a couple minutes, retrieve your first plastic card and insert one corner under the top edge of one of the center battery cells.

    • Wiggle it from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell until all the adhesive separates.

    • If you have trouble, don't use excessive force and don't deform the battery. Apply more adhesive remover and try again, or skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    Once you get the card edge under a cell, you can apply a couple of drops on top of the card and it will flow down to the working edge of the card. This will make moving the card back and forth a lot easier.

    Scott Shore - Reply

  60. Retrieve your second plastic card and repeat the previous step to separate the remaining center battery cell. Retrieve your second plastic card and repeat the previous step to separate the remaining center battery cell. Retrieve your second plastic card and repeat the previous step to separate the remaining center battery cell.
    • Retrieve your second plastic card and repeat the previous step to separate the remaining center battery cell.

  61. If you had trouble getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell and pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.
    • If you had trouble getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell and pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.

    • Wear thick gloves or wrap the floss around a couple of driver handles so as not to hurt your fingers.

    Wouldnt the wire damage the underside of the cells?

    Tom Jackson - Reply

    Yes, but you should never re-use a glued-down battery after removing it like this. These batteries are not designed to be re-used, and can pose a fire risk even when removed carefully.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used dental floss + pastic card for the middle part. Avoided using the adhesive remover for the middle ones.

    Neil Robinson - Reply

    I didn’t have to resort to this method, but if I did I would think some fishing line would be a good option. Put some candle wax on it if it starts to bind. I use this method to remove car dash phone holders that are siliconed down to the dash.

    Steven Wonder - Reply

    I used this method, (while waiting for the iFixIt glue dissolver kit: was over a weekend; so too late). Works well with a strong, doubled (with slight, about 1 turn per cm, twist) 25SWG (0.5mm, 0.02inch) copper wire, wrapped around spare small screwdriver handles. Ensure that the angle of the wire is _very_ _flat_ while ‘sawing’ slowly; take your time, quite a lot of force is required to sheer through the spongy pads in places. I started with the 2 larger central cells to refine the technique.

    Shawn Marston - Reply

  62. Lift and remove the battery. Before installing a new battery, remove all remaining adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.
    • Lift and remove the battery.

    • Before installing a new battery, remove all remaining adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • Peel off any large strips of adhesive using tweezers or gloved fingers.

    • Scrape away any remaining chunks of adhesive with a plastic tool, and clean the underlying areas with adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol. Wipe in one direction (not back and forth) until the chassis is clean and ready for your new battery.

    • This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    Mine was very difficult to remove and clean. I spent forever trying to clean up the residue. However, I tried 70% isopropyl on two bays and the iFixit adhesive remover in the other two, and covered with food plastic wrap. Went to lunch and when I got back I used razor blade scraper (like used to remove stickers from glass), and it was pretty easily cleaned. Both chemicals worked just as well. Just soak and let the chemicals do the work.

    Philip Edelbrock - Reply

    I didn’t use any solution to remove the battery and found that using the plastic tool to start an adhesive strip I was able to pull each one off by hand in one shot

    ajm0824 - Reply

    I found the best way to do this was to put the hairdrier on the adhesive for a few seconds, then it just peeled off in one go. Wasted a lot of time trying to scratch them off before this.

    Nathan Skene - Reply

    SECOND THIS ADVICE!! Use a hairdryer it will save you a lot of time and the old adhesive will come off much, much cleaner

    Judah Trimmer -

    • Double-check the fit and alignment of your new battery before sticking it down.

    • On earlier models, be mindful of the battery data cable and make sure it doesn't get pinched or trapped under the battery board.

    • If your battery came with adhesive pre-installed on the bottom, flip it over and carefully peel away the liner to expose the adhesive. If your battery did not come with adhesive, apply a thin double-sided adhesive tape such as Tesa 61395 to keep your battery in place.

    • Carefully position the battery and set it into place.

    • Press and hold each cell firmly for 5-10 seconds to secure it to the lower case.

    In this photo, the holes that are shown in Step 51, where it states, “2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws,” are in a different position, so that re-securing the battery board doesn’t seem possible.

    Sarr Sheffer - Reply

    Step 51 shows the correct procedure for two different models; this step shows only one model, because the procedure here works for both. Order the correct replacement battery for your model, and you’ll have no problem.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I strongly recommend re-installing the touchpad BEFORE installing the battery. Doing that and feeding the ribbon cable through the correct slot will ensure that you don’t block the path of the cable. I did not do this and had to cut some of the framing plastic away to give me just a bit more slack to be able to reconnect the cable.

    After you have the touchpad back in, do a “dry” fit of the battery to make sure you see how the battery should go in so you don’t affect the ribbon cable. Then you can peel off the adhesive protection strips to secure the battery.

    Les Hartzman - Reply

    After reading this comment I went straight back to steps 19/20 and reversed them before installing the battery… will update if something is notable!

    Nathan Skene -

    Be careful here. When I went to peel up the liner on one of the batteries the adhesive strip came up with it. It should be smooth under the liner. If you start seeing ragged adhesive, stop peeling, push it back down, and try another corner.

    J D - Reply

    The version i got had the individual adhesives stuck to what look like tempered plastic that covered the whole battery. Removing the main plastic took off all adhesives at the same time. Its usefull to have another set of hands at this stage.

    Neil Robinson - Reply

    I had the same problem as others with the adhesive sticking harder to the plastic cover than to the batteries themselves. Another set of hands here would indeed be useful. This was actually the hardest step of the entire process as you cannot reposition the batteries once you set them down. Luckily it seems there is at least a little wiggle room in there. Make sure the power connection lines up with its screw holes as the number one priority.

    james - Reply

  63. After your battery is properly positioned and installed, peel off and discard the clear plastic liner from the top. Make sure the liner doesn't accidentally pull off any of the black battery component coverings. If needed, use tweezers to hold them in place as you peel off the liner.
    • After your battery is properly positioned and installed, peel off and discard the clear plastic liner from the top.

    • Make sure the liner doesn't accidentally pull off any of the black battery component coverings. If needed, use tweezers to hold them in place as you peel off the liner.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    In order to not remove everything, I reduce the procedure in following only steps 1 to 18 (until trackpad cable is pushed away).

    Then I removed the “low “ screws of step 46 in order to losen the fixation of “bottom” of the motherboard, as there is no room to remove the battery board and its ribbons).

    Then I removed the two screws of the step 50 (battery board). To take off the glued battery, I used twine or thread (e.g. as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...) but not acetone nor diluant.

    Then I lifted very carefully the bottom of the motherboard both to push away the battery board and its ribbons and to reinsert the new battery board and ribbons.

    Then I proceed backward to remount (step 50, step 46 then step 18 to 1).

    Note: my “old” battery was so inflated that the two screws of the lower case near the trackpad were difficult to remove (sometimes, this leads to a malfunctioning…

    Thank to Jeff for this overall procedure which helps me a lot.

    jompo - Reply

    wow, this was awesome. thanks whoever wrote it. very well described.

    Astrit Mulla - Reply

    I did the same a @jumbo . So, I’d be happy to rewrite this into a much shorter and less hazard format as @jumbo suggests which works perfectly and has many fewer steps and less risk of injury to the trackpad, motherboard and connected components. I did this in about an hour on my MacBook Pro late 2016.

    Marc Marchioli - Reply

    Plastic liner is not releasing from the battery cells. If I hold the foam pad in place the plastic sheet rips the foam.

    Lee Gwaltney - Reply

    Missing one critical helpful notation and photo on the reassembly part - a checklist of all the cables and connectors that need to be checked to make sure they are not caught under the motherboard. I missed the keyboard cable and it cost me half an hour. I checked off all the ones I could remember to make sure they were clear, but just missed that one. A photo with circles and a checklist would be a big help to make sure everything is clear. Otherwise, everything was very well done.

    J Wade Caldwell Jr - Reply

    That’s in Step 49. Easy to miss, but it’s there! I feel your pain though, I’ve made that same mistake.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think that was the same cable I missed… at the bottom by the battery connector. I mentioned it to ifixit to add a checklist as well…. Who is responsible for editing this guide? Do you know?

    robert -

    I did the same thing as @jompo did. Works perfectly fine. Thank you jompo, thanks to the author and thank you ifixit team.

    artoo - Reply

    OK well, followed the instructions to the word, & pleased to say my problem has now been resolved. So very many thanks for the fix kit & cracking easy to follow instructions. The MacBookPro lives to fight another day.

    rayholliman - Reply

    in knapp 3h habe ich den Akku gewechselt gehabt, passt auf die Unterlegscheiben vom Trackpad auf… die gehen schnell verloren und das Tastaturkabel vergisst man auch mal ganz schnell. Der Guide ist eine super Hilfe gewesen und ohne den hätte ich sicher das MBP noch nicht mal aufbekommen.

    swordper - Reply

    Only 67,000 easy steps!

    Billy HW - Reply

    that’s what I thought :D But as others mentioned it can be reduced to a nice amount of steps. but anyway: I think producers should make their products waaaay easier to restore those parts like accumulator, ram, HD or even processor cores.. long live the good old desktop pc with motherboards as big and heavy as macbook airs from nowadays ;)

    julia.kadauke -

    Great instructions I finally got my mac book back alive! I am noticing that the battery settings do not show that it is charging even though it is plugged in…tried resetting the SMC still nothing indicating it is charging…I have no idea if it is calibrating correctly. Has been plugged in for about 2 hours but only indicates a 30% charge

    Judah Trimmer - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

59 other people completed this guide.

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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This is an awesome guide. My girlfriend’s MacBook Pro was diagnosed with a logic board failure by the repair centre. The repair cost was going to be more than a new 6-core Mac Mini.

I tinkered with the device, and thanks to the help of the iFixit community, a battery fault was diagnosed. Installed a new battery and the problem was solved!

Graeme Hatley -