Introduction

Pre-req only.

Parts

No parts required.

  1. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    After connect the cable aux is not working

    deepak selvanathan - Reply

    Strange, I'm working on the same model, and it doesn't have a flex here. It's soldered.

    Ross Karnes - Reply

    Same as Ross. No cable to pry. It’s soldered. But looks like I can continue on anyway

    Cameron Melvin - Reply

  2. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

    • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:

    http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...

    My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!

    Rich - Reply

    Pry the speaker connectors *up and out*. Doing it from the cable's sides, next to connectors, is easier.

    Kitipong Mork - Reply

    Not sure what happened, but when I put it back together, i barely had enough room to plug this back in. It’s like the cable shrunk. I had to really yank on it to get it to fit.

    Jer - Reply

    Adhesive under the left cable made it hard for me to remove it. The right one came out very easy.

    Calvin Truong - Reply

    i broke off all the connectors to the logic board any fix for this ?

    Steven Rai - Reply

  3. Peel back any tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector.
    • Peel back any tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

    On Re-assembly, I found this to be the hardest part. I resorted to using the provided tweezers and taking turns left and right, working it back into its ZIF socket. If someone knows a better way, please share.

    Fred Anderson - Reply

    I just got done with this and my plus/equal, tilde/apostraphe, brackets/braces and volume up keys are not working. Wondering is this isn't seated correctly or if i damaged something. :-(

    sturmjonny - Reply

    This is one of the fussier flex cables to reconnect. I'd say it's worth opening it back up and reseating it. Only takes a few minutes—just disconnect the battery and then come straight to this step. Make sure the cable contacts are clean (wipe them with a little isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth), and that the connector is clear of any dirt/debris (give it a good blast or two with some compressed air). Make sure the cable is inserted perfectly flat and straight into the connector (this is the hardest part, just takes patience and a little dexterity). Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is really a pain to pull out. You sorta have to lift it up and out - I was worried I was going to flex the cable and break it too much.

    Jer - Reply

    Use the retaining flap to pull the ribbon cable back into the socket.

    Andrew Dunning - Reply

    This keyboard ribbon is so thin. It is like thinner than X-ray film. I was afraid to remove the ribbon from the socket. So, I skipped this step and follow other steps till ‘Step 30’. I didn't remove the logic board as shown in Step 31 and 32. Instead, I removed DC board screws and then DC board from the hole. The cable from the DC board connected at bottom corner of the logic board. I hold the MacBook Pro vertically and lift the logic board slightly and removed the DC board ‘plug’ from the socket. Next, I plugged in the new DC board and followed this procedure in reverse order ( from Step 30 to Step 1). Everything went fine. Important Note: When lifting logic board, please do it carefully and very slowly. Don’t be hurry and don’t break anything. Use magnifying glass and Magnifier in your iPhone to see the tiny parts big and clearly, before removing them.

    Jay Rajamanickam - Reply

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Pry only under the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself, or you may break it off the board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently back the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket by pushing first at one side, then the other.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pry only under the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself, or you may break it off the board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently back the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket by pushing first at one side, then the other.

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  6. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  7. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  8. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

    A small elastic popped out when removing the cable. Glad I wore the protective glasses.

    Louie - Reply

    Meaning, pull the ribbon cable out horizontally. And be aware that the copper wiring is on the underside of the cable and the topside is just black plastic, so don’t freak out and think you ripped something pulling it out.

    Chapman Harrison - Reply

  9. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    I'd recommend using the pliers.

    Calvin Truong - Reply

  10. Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near to the MagSafe 2 connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near to the MagSafe 2 connector.

  11. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.8 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.2 mm Raised Head T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.5 mm Silver T5 Torx screw

    While you're doing this, unplug the right speaker before you lift the logic board. That is the only step missing in the guide.

    anthony - Reply

    anthony: Unplugging the right speaker connector was done in step 23.

    Kitipong Mork - Reply

    when following on the contrary, its good to check all the ribbons and cables to make sure some are not stuck under board prior to screwing down.

    Robert Gregory - Reply

    green indicator: raised head screw is the one you removed the rubber cap from in prior step. (I removed – and then replaced — a different screw in this step. Revisited it with more daylight and saw my error.)

    auntialias - Reply

  12. Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro. Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board. When reinstalling the logic board, check the cables at the marked locations to make sure they don't get pinned underneath the logic board.
    • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the logic board, check the cables at the marked locations to make sure they don't get pinned underneath the logic board.

    • Clockwise from top: keyboard, trackpad, battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, display, microphone, headphone jack, left speaker.

    In bullet #1 I lifted logic board from left side (nearest battery), tilted toward right side (port side) and pulled to to the left a bit to get ports out of chassis cutouts.

    Then I followed bullet #2.

    Kitipong Mork - Reply

    Going revese order, remember about mic connector and backlit connector. Those nasty small tails are easy to omit. Then you will have to repeat disassembly to get them from under mainboard.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Reply

    Agreed with Radoslaw's comment. It might even be nice to have a list of small cables to watch for during logic board reassembly.

    talarohk - Reply

    @radioerewan @talarohk - I think that's a good idea. I went ahead and added a photo showing all the cable locations to check—hopefully it will save someone some trouble! Thanks for your comments.

    Jeff Suovanen - Reply

    Yes heed everyone’s warning. I had to remove the entire logic board TWICE because i forgot to pull out the antennae and the backlit keyboard plug.

    Jer - Reply

    Yes, be very careful before screwing things down. I also forgot the backlight and the display cables. Had the cover for the display cable out, but not the actual cable. I was able to use tweezers to fish the cables out after removing the screws but without removing the whole board.

    E Carlton Hays Jr - Reply

    My logic board was stuck under the battery PCB, on the top right side of the battery PCB, when viewed like in the first picture.

    I suggest removing the two screws from step 35 holding the PCB down for a little more wiggle room before attempting to remove the logic board.

    Tom - Reply

    I had to go back cause I couldn’t figure out where the logic board connector into (under the board). Funny enough i assembled it and it worked though the night and didn’t come on again. Had to go through the whole process b4 i figured it out. Definitely a good idea to at least breeze through all the images

    Yemi Dalley - Reply

    In link MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Logic Board Replacement step 34 the second picture exit the procedure install ZIP

    raul - Reply

    reassembly: so far the hardest step. After getting all the connectors above board, I still couldn’t quite line up the screw holes. It finally turned out that the board was being prevented from being in its full leftward position because the edge of a flange at the top of the USB port was directly positioned against the edge of a flange on the case. I used my thumbnail to press down on the port’s flange so that it slid under the case flange, allowing the board to shift left another half-millimeter and make everything finally line up.

    Chapman Harrison - Reply

    I Just removed the whole power connector with the main board, seemed a little easier. But that’s just me. Good manual thou.

    Timothy de Wal - Reply

    Had a lot of trouble getting the power cable out. Would definitly recomend this.

    Calvin Truong -

    100% take the power connector out. This guide is amazing but that is something I would change in it. Also I would do step 35 before attempting to remove the logic board. Unsure if there are other implications of this approach.

    kevinhayes656 -

    Am I completely stupid? ...! When I wanted to remove the mainboard, it was still connected to a plug. I searched, but found no indication about this plug. So I had to try to figure out how this plug works. I started trying, which finally tore the console off the board: -o ...: .- ( It is a small plug to the right of the power supply - Pic. #3 top right!!. Comes below the battery. Note, this must be pushed backwards, but may have a lock. What can I do now? If someone has a tip that I do not have to change my motherboard, I am very, very grateful!

    privat - Reply

    I had the same issue where that cable was still connected. I noticed that it was the same type as another one where it needed to be lifted vertically so I did that using the tweesers.

    Jonathan McCaffrey -

    Definitely unscrew and remove the two screws that hold the MagSafe 2 connector then remove the connector with the board.

    The connector that’s not mentioned in the dissasembly manual is the right hand loudspeaker connector. It pulls up, just the same way as the left hand loudspeaker connector does. No locking tab.

    Other than that it’s a brilliant dissasembly instruction manual, well done.

    I took the logic board out, re-soldered U8900 (well known issue with these boards) and put it back together following the manual in reveres. All works fine now.

    One thing that I did which helped. I printed the manual off, then stuck the screws in every case to the page next to where each screw was described using cellotape. So every screw went back exactly where it came from.

    Steve Hills - Reply

  13. Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.
    • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

One other person completed this guide.

Brett Hartt

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