MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012 Headphone Jack Replacement

Replace the headphone jack in the MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012.

Headphone jack stop working? Use this guide to install a new one.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

  • Set the lower case aside.

Edit Step 3 Battery Connector  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Battery Connector  ¶ 

  • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

Edit Step 5 AirPort/Camera Cable  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5 AirPort/Camera Cable  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

  • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

  • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

  • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

Edit Step 9 I/O Board Cable  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9 I/O Board Cable  ¶ 

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex.

  • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

  • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

Edit Step 10 Right Fan  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10 Right Fan  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

  • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

Edit Step 15 Left Fan  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15 Left Fan  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar.

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

  • Lift the left fan out of the device.

Edit Step 18 SSD  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18 SSD  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 20 I/O Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20 I/O Board  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

  • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

Edit Step 22 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

  • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near to the MagSafe 2 connector.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.8 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.2 mm Raised Head T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.5 mm Silver T5 Torx screw

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

Edit Step 33 Headphone Jack  ¶ 

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Edit Step 33 Headphone Jack  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the headphone jack to the upper case assembly.

  • Slide the headphone jack away from the upper case.

  • Lift and remove the headphone jack out from its recess in the upper case.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T5 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

lantzero, · Reply

In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

Christian Mohr,

The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

Sam Lionheart,

will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

drscottgreenwell, · Reply

Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

cloughenough,

This works for rMBP 2012 late

iyeori,

Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

didierma, · Reply

If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

iyeori, · Reply

Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

Epifanio, · Reply

It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

floyd, · Reply

Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

Emilio Mejia, · Reply

I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

Alvaro Suarez, · Reply

Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

jamiegan835, · Reply

I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

This is a "PC" habit.

On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

kriss13, · Reply

For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

iyeori, · Reply

are the 3 cables identify ?

darryll, · Reply

will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

Oleg Babko, · Reply

If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

Delta, · Reply

These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

Alvin Chua, · Reply

I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

is there a way to replace the antenna?

Fabian Schweinfurth, · Reply

unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

Arn Custodio, · Reply

The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

joey, · Reply

Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

Thomas Kunjappu, · Reply

I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

Sergey, · Reply

This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

mayer, · Reply

I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

Alvin Chua, · Reply

Easier to do while removing fan.

mayer, · Reply

This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

RT0, · Reply

check if screw marking here is right

night4cat, · Reply

One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

best regards,

Seth

sethroot, · Reply

When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

Lorte Messenger, · Reply

This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:

http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...

My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!

Rich, · Reply

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