Introduction

If you use a power adapter which is to weak for your Mac Book (e.g. 60W for a MBP 15" which is specified for a 80W power adapter) the following should happen from a theoretical point of view: The power adapter is overloaded and heats up until the internal thermal protection switches it off savely. -- And this happened in real live: The adapter blew up in a way, that it delivered one last powerful current pulse which also destroyed parts of the logic board. The Mac Book is still fully operational with battery, but can not be charged nor powered any more, even with a new power adapter.

The disassembling steps are referenced to MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Logic Board Replacement. For this particular guide it is not necessary to unmount the fans, heatpipes and speaker-microphone-block. Just skip the related steps.

Since the topology of the circuit between power connector and battery is common technique, this guide might fit to other logic boards too.

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will - Reply

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke -

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie - Reply

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds -

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato -

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe -

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore -

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric -

I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

Nils -

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger - Reply

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick - Reply

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl -

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero - Reply

To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

1982sketcher -

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK - Reply

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful - Reply

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos - Reply

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi - Reply

There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

Print the repair guide.

Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

Same thing with any part you remove.

splashzoneent - Reply

Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

Tommy Kedar -

Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

nclarke36 -

Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

SOME TRICKS -

1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

cheers- Durango CO!

Dgodrummer - Reply

Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

kevicoll409 - Reply

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

Danno - Reply

Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.
  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

Januar Wiyogo - Reply

Remove the three T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the upper case.
  • Remove the three T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the upper case.

on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

Bryan Chun - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right fan connector up out of its socket on the logic board. It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right fan connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

  • Remove the right fan from the upper case.

There is no way to reconnect the fan cable. It looks like it was soldered onto the logic board. I disconnected it and can't reconnect it.

Has this happened to anyone else.

Vicki - Reply

Vicki, you tore the connector off the board. They can be re-soldered if you are very careful/skilled with a soldering iron, but that is not something that you should try to do if you haven't soldered SMD components before.

rcoleskelton - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort / Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort / Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Fold the AirPort / Bluetooth ribbon cable back to keep it out of the way of the logic board.

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Disconnect the iSight cable by pulling its connector toward the optical drive opening.
  • Disconnect the iSight cable by pulling its connector toward the optical drive opening.

I was afraid to pull too hard, but wiggling it worked! :)

Mark - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive cable connector up from the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive cable connector up from the logic board.

  • Fold the optical drive cable back to keep it out of the way of the logic board.

hello i just installed a brand new logic board in my mac, in my mac i have replaced the cd drive with an second ssd - but when i turn the mac on, the OS cant find the second ssd, the cable is in (it clicks in) - does anybody know how to fix this or ?

Best regards Mathias

mathiastondering - Reply

Black Friday
Broken doesn't stand a chance.
Carefully pull the subwoofer/right speaker cable up to lift its connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Carefully pull the subwoofer/right speaker cable up to lift its connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Same problem as with step 11. I pried up the connector as shown and can't reconnect it. It looks like it may have been soldered to the logic board. How can this be fixed?

Vicki - Reply

The only problem that I face on substituting the top case was when I tried to connect the subwoofer connector to the socket on the logic board. I did some tentatives but on the last the socket on the logic board I suppose unsoldered. Some suggestions?

Thanks

Paolo Sperati

paolosperati63 - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

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Remove the two short Phillips screws securing the small EMI shield to the logic board. Remove the EMI shield from the logic board.
  • Remove the two short Phillips screws securing the small EMI shield to the logic board.

  • Remove the EMI shield from the logic board.

Mine was stuck to the Keyboard Ribbon Cable; needed an extra pull, but it's safe and should come off - it's not attached to anything. :)

Mark - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

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Use your fingernail to carefully flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap. Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use your fingernail to carefully flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap.

  • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

How will I know I have inserted the keyboard ribbon successfully? After installing a new upper case I can't seem to get the keyboard ribbon to stay in its socket. Or does the EMI sheild hold it in place?

cemcatikkas - Reply

Ditto. It seems very tricky to reinsert the keyboard ribbon.

GrooveStomp - Reply

I just did this - it is kinda tricky. The ribbon cable has a flap on top that is designed solely to help you coax the cable back into the socket....don't make the mistake I did and spend an hour trying to feed this flap through the socket. What worked for me was a combination of using the flap with my fingers and tweezers on the actual cable to reinsert it into the socket. Took a few tries, but I got the cable re-inserted, pressed down on the tiny locking thing, and the keyboard cable was in and secured.

dave - Reply

Indeed, it is difficult to insert the keyboard ribbon cable. It will stop after about 1mm of insertion. It needs to go in quite a bit further. Angling it slightly, you may be able to get a corner to go in, then straighten the ribbon while applying forward pressure. I reassembled it a few times with that sinking feeling on startup before I realized that it wasn't really making contact!

dennishodge - Reply

I've replaced the keyboard, so reinserting the ribbon was particularly tricky. After several failed attempts, here's what finally dawned on me... I took a piece of scotch tape, maybe an inch long. I folded on end on itself, maybe a quarter inch from the top. That left a sticky zone and a non-sticky zone on the tape. I taped it to the ribbon, and was able to use the tape and a "handle" to pull the ribbon into the socket. Afterwards, I carefully removed the tape without pulling the ribbon out of the socket.

Bryan Chun - Reply

This was the hardest part for me. Be sure you flip the release flap up before removing or re-inserting.

Jonathan Daiello - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket. Do not pull the cable upward, as the socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the corner of the upper case.
  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket.

  • Do not pull the cable upward, as the socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the corner of the upper case.

One of the chips in this image was covered in glue. when I flipped the data cable clip, the glue plus encased chip popped right off the board. Does anyone know what chip this is? Without it, my Mac plays the startup chime, but the screen is black. The backlight is on, but it just displays black.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/befonnaz125fn9...

Jon - Reply

I did the exact same thing. I still have the tiny chip. Is there a way to glue it back on or will I need a new logic board now?

Louis Adams - Reply

There's a bracket / handle clip attached to the display port. I didn't know it was there and accidentally bent it off. Can't get it back on, but it seems to work OK without it.

Bryan Chun - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

I couldn’t see the flap as mine was already popped up. Try looking at it from the side to get a better view of the state of yours.

Cyrille - Reply

Remove the following screws:
  • Remove the following screws:

    • Seven 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws securing the DC-In board to the upper case.

  • Do not remove the logic board yet! There are components on the underside of the logic board attached to the the upper case that must first be disconnected.

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Carefully lift the logic board assembly from the left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the port side that may get caught during removal.
  • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from the left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the port side that may get caught during removal.

  • Do not entirely remove the logic board yet!

I just took one apart that had some pretty strong adhesive holding the speaker onto the upper case. I had to slip a spudger underneath and pry it up, else it was going to overly bend the mobo before it would release.

jkamis - Reply

My board was stuck to the bottom plastic. I had to gently release it by pushing the black plastic beneath the board down, while carefully moving the board upward.

Jonathan Daiello - Reply

Lift the logic board enough to gain clearance and use a spudger to pry the microphone up off the upper case.
  • Lift the logic board enough to gain clearance and use a spudger to pry the microphone up off the upper case.

On this step, the microphone was attached to the board so the whole unit lifted off easily.

seandodd - Reply

Mine was too; it was part of the speaker assembly, a much better arrangement.

maccentric -

Slide the logic board away from the port openings and lift the assembly out of the upper case.
  • Slide the logic board away from the port openings and lift the assembly out of the upper case.

  • Before reinstalling the logic board, it is easiest to press the microphone down into its housing in the left speaker to keep it in place.

  • To avoid ESD damage, be sure to lay your logic board on a soft, static free surface during service.

After prying off the mic from the top case and carefully lifting the logic board, I realized there was still a wire connected near the display connector, under the board. I was able to disconnect it but I'm wondering if I missed something or if this cable is missing from the instructions. The wire was connected under the board so it could not be disconnected before removing the board.

Laurent Daudelin - Reply

This is the magsafe cable. Step 23 details removing the torx screws holding the magsafe board in place. If you remove the screws, you don't need to remove the cable.

supersuade - Reply

The picture shows a schematic which is similar to Mac Book Pro's power input circuit. The series components L1, F1, T1, T2 have to draw the full power, so those are of interest for us. With an ohmmeter you can check these parts.
  • The picture shows a schematic which is similar to Mac Book Pro's power input circuit. The series components L1, F1, T1, T2 have to draw the full power, so those are of interest for us. With an ohmmeter you can check these parts.

  • L1: Since I could not figure out the manufacturer of this common mode choke I recommend to use a new MagSafe PCB.

  • F1: According to the printing on this part it is very likely that this is a Littelfuse 0469006 6A fuse.

  • T1, T2: Both MOSFETs are HAT1128R type. Since this part is obsolete I took IRF9317PbF

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The picture shows where the relevant parts are placed on the logic board. F1, T1 and T2 are marked green. L1 is mounted on the MagSafe PCB and so not seen on the picture.
  • The picture shows where the relevant parts are placed on the logic board. F1, T1 and T2 are marked green. L1 is mounted on the MagSafe PCB and so not seen on the picture.

  • After you have figured out which of these parts (L1, F1, T2, T2) are defective you can change them. I recommend to replace both MOSFETs if there is at least one damaged.

  • After replacing the defective parts you can check the functionality by connecting the battery and the power adapter to the logic board. If everything is fine the LED of the MagSafe connector will light up green and switch to orange if battery will be charged. Be very careful.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow the prerequisited guide in reverse order.

8 other people completed this guide.

lemmirocketmotor

Member since: 03/21/2015

255 Reputation

1 Guide authored

One Comment

I don't know if any 80w MagSafe. It should be 85w for 15" and 60w for 13"...

mamashannon4u - Reply

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