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Introduction

Use this guide to replace a broken display assembly.

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement, Lower Case: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

    • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Reply

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Reply

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Reply

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Reply

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Reply

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - Reply

    I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better

    cam2000deluxe -

    Before ordering a new Trackpad remove the existing battery and try clicking the Trackpad. If it clicks OK with the battery out the source of problem is likely a swollen battery, which should to be replaced even if it still works to some degree. From the side of the battery you will likely see the soft part of the battery bulging beyond the hard case.

    Patrick Langvardt - Reply

    That’s absolutely correct as I can testify. With the battery removed I also adjusted the T6 set screw that adjusts the sensitivity of the trackpad click, evidently someone had cranked mine down tighter than the factory setting.

    Gary Register -

    Le quatrième paragraphe dans les instructions en français n’est pas correct : ce ne sont pas les 2 petites vis, mais les 7 petites vis qui sont inclinées. Et les 3 grandes sont bien verticales.

    Degeorges - Reply

    Bonjour ! Merci de votre observation. J’ai corrigé la traduction. iFixit étant un wiki, n’hésitez pas à modifiez si vous remarquez une erreur :) Encore merci de votre attention et à bientôt !

    Claire Miesch -

    Tip: if you have a magnetic screw mat or similar, lay the macbook over the mat to make sure it catches any screws that may decide to fall of and hide under your table

    Moritz - Reply

    Funny, it's not her hands that are doing the close ups. :)

    Cinemated Man - Reply

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 2, image 2 of 2
    • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Remove the lower case.

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement, Battery Connection: step 3, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement, Battery Connection: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Reply

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Reply

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Reply

    I used the nails of thumb and pointer finger simultaneously - worked pretty fine

    Reinhard Kaune - Reply

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 1
    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Reply

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Reply

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - Reply

    I suspect it’s just like the special screwdriver required for seatbelts on cars – to discourage regular consumers from attempting repairs. Of course, this only encourages consumers to use the wrong tool to attempt to repairs

    colleenthompson - Reply

    Dissambling my MacBookPro Premium Mid 2012 (i5-3210M 2.5Ghz) was easily, Careful with the screws, use screwdriver fitting exactly with the screws, you damage them very fast. Work very exactly, relaxed with time, consentration, good Tools and with feelings in your hands. Disconnect the Akku was easy if you take care, remove it to be safe, Two screws more, more space to work & haven`t to think about damaging someting. Apple use diffrent screws, you should have many difffrent scewdrivers. It is also good to clean everything inside, With time everything gets very dusty & dirty, don`t forget the sides and little fittings at the case. Use a pinsel, alcohol, soft peace stuff, it will look like new. If you have knowledge & experience, you can paint it in any colour or airbrushing for individualizing. You can also just polish it with a soft Politure (Sonax car Polish No1, NOT with wax or take an other light Politure you familiar & can do the job, A Laptop should serviced once a year, keeping it good working over years

    Stefan Lindner - Reply

    First thing i do is open & cleanig everything inside,specially the cooling & fan, renew the thermal paste with an high quality product. Install the Nain System, clean up Bloatware and other unnecessary things, install standard software for daily use, additional change system components against better one (Edge to Firefox, Windows Media Player to VLC , an Office Suite and configuring everything for Data Protection, Privacy- & Indentety Protection, install Drivers from the component Manufactur (incedible effect, disable limitations, more functions, work better & faster, increasing performance, additional change the WiFi & Bluetooth Card to a better one a UMTS WWAN to an LTE Card, increase RAM with two Dual-Channel working SODIMMs, Use M2 or 2,5" SSD if no M2 Slot aviable) as System- and Software iDrive, a FAT32 formatted 32GB Partition to be safe of metaviruses comes with harmless downloads, and a big 2,5 HDD to store the user data. What does you guys think about this? Old Computer become a new life,

    Stefan Lindner - Reply

    I livein Austria, near Vienna, if someone needs help or anything else, i would be glad to help. I always searching old or broken devices to bring them to new live. I also searching for spare parts, specilly a Bottom & Side Case and a 256GB or higher NGFF Storage Card for a Sony Vaio Tab 11 SVT1144HE (2014), some 14,1" Displays for a HP Probook 440G5 (2016), Elitebook MT 43 Mobile Thin Client, (2011), Dell Vostro 3460 (2012) Lenovo Thinkpad T440s (2014), and a Logic Board for an Lenovo Ideapad 330-15ARR (2017, damaged by Water i think) and a Logic Bord for an Alienware 17R4 with i7-6870HX & Nvidia 1080 (2018, CPU dead, maybe there is a repair Guide or workaround to bring it back to Life). I need always 8GB or 16GB DDR3 and DDR4 RAM Storage (perfectly two ident one for Dual-Channel use for Laptops, M2 SATA 6GB/s and NVMe PCIe SSDs 500GB or more and 2,5"SSD or HDD with 1TB or more and 3,5" HDD with 4GB or above. If you have some of this or other useful parts and doesn`t need them, please make me an offer, maybe

    2

    Stefan Lindner - Reply

    an change something you need. This is not a Business what i do, it`s more a Hobby with challenging new Excercices.. Thats the best Point. Plase forgive me as a Newbie this very long Post in the wrong Section, but if you are start writing you cannot stop.... But now i have to come to an end and would be happy if someone wants to get in contact. My E-Mail is: udontknowme@gmx.at (the adress name is just a notice against Big Data and for Privacy Protection!

    Stefan Lindner - Reply

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement, AirPort/Bluetooth Assembly: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

    Greg - Reply

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • Carefully pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling it upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

    Be extremely careful on step 6 with late 2011 model unibody macbooks! The cable is connected very tightly to the board and has a great chance of ripping if you just pull the cable.

    Tim Rauls - Reply

    My cable is broken, have the part number or code to buy?

    VÍCTOR RIFFO - Reply

    I found there was plenty of length in the camera cable (as it goes around two sides of the optical drive) so does not need to be disconnected - just ease it out of the slot alongside the drive and lay it diagonally across.

    Nic Blinston - Reply

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully move the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable out of the way as you peel the camera cable off the adhesive securing it to the subwoofer and the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

    • De-route the camera cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

    Take a few phone close-ups of this corner of your system prior to disassembly. Extra photos really help during reassembly.

    airshack - Reply

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna connector closest to the logic board up from its socket on the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

    • De-route the antenna cable from under the finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Using the method described in the last step, disconnect the remaining three antenna connectors.

    • De-route their cables from the slots cut in the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

    I found re-attaching these antennae connectors the trickiest bit by far as they appear very delicate and seating them correctly was fiddly. In the end lighting them from the side with a small torch helped to check their position before gently pushing them down. The first one made a clicking sound as it connected, the other two went on silently. MBP wifi working perfectly now. I’m fairly sure that was at least £100 of labour had I taken it in for repair so thanks ifixit for saving me money and for the warm glow of accomplishment!

    Andrew - Reply

    Actually, on my repair attempt, one antenna cable broke (on the image the bottom right one in the red square), I’m not sure whether it broke already before or was morbid somehow. Fact is. suddenly I had this cable in my fingers, and was sure I completely broke the macbook and need to find a new display now.

    But as it turned out: the Mac is still fully working, including WIFI, BT, Camera etc. So apart from my huge relief, I want to address that these cables may break easily at their connection with the display. And that one antenna might be not mandatory for WIFI to work.

    huedrant - Reply

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following five screws:

    • Two 10.3 mm Phillips screws

    • Two 3.1 mm Phillips screws

    • One 5 mm Phillips screw

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 1
    • Pull the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the Subwoofer upward near the center of the side of the optical drive until they clear each other.

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly, minding the fragile antenna contact near the corner of the upper case.

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement, Display: step 13, image 1 of 1
    • Remove two of the three 6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.

    • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 14, image 3 of 3
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    This was the hardest part for me. It took me a bit to figure out what parts were the socket and which was the cable and where were they going to separate. What I did was gently twist the pull tab on the cable in a clockwise direction. This allowed me to see a small separation between the socket and cable. At that point I knew what side of the pull tab I had to use a little pressure on, to continue to wiggle the cable free.

    Eric Olson - Reply

    Eric Olson’s comment helped me a lot. I couldn’t figure out how to go about it until I read his comment. Thanks

    oladim - Reply

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

    When putting the display case back together, I found it MUCH easier to reinsert the display cable before screwing back in the data cable retainer. It did require me angling my screwdriver to get the rightmost screw in, but it was not too difficult. It certainly made it much easier to reinsert the display cable since I had more freedom to maneuver it back into position. Hope this help others. God Bless!

    eSavior - Reply

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the piece of foam tape covering the display screws near the MagSafe DC-In board.

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 1
    • Remove two of the three 6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.

    • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 1
    • Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

    I have found that keeping the MacBook more open than you’d think is the key to getting this step right. Initially I opened the lid only about 50º or so, but couldn’t free the hinges from the case even after removing the final two screws. Opening the lid to about 90º has made this much easier, and means the hinges come free without catching on the rest of the body of the Mac.

    Kit Marsden - Reply

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 1
    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 Display Replacement: step 20, image 3 of 3
    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

    I used this guide to tighten the hinges; screen was all wobbly because the four screws that hold the screen in place had worked themselves loose. Surprised that getting at the screws required the full removal of the display. One thing that's helpful in putting it all together is in regard to adjusting the position of the hinges; with the screws loose, there is a lot of play in the hinges, and if you just torque them down, the lid won't fit right. I snugged up the screws then put the display back in place on the body & inserted one screw into each side, then loosened the hinge screws to align the screen. That has to happen before replacing the black plastic cover over the bottom edge of the display.

    davidgthornton - Reply

    My Macbook Pro developed a severe wobble in the display so I took it in to the Genius bar to see what could be done. They told me that fixing it would involve replacing the whole display because the problem is due to a piece of plastic inside breaking off. I suspected it just needed to have the hinge screws tightened so I brought my laptop home and gave it a go using this guide. Well, it turns out I was right! The Torx screws joining the hinges to the the display had come loose at both sides. To fix this, I got the hinges lined up straight on the display and tightened them down. To attatch the hinges to the body, I tightened one screw on each side half way and closed the display to line it up with the body. I then proceeded then to tighten all of the Torx screws on the body. Thank you for the great guide, Philip! I love this site!

    gilded yak - Reply

    Might be a dumb question but can I swap screens from a broken MacBook Pro to the my working one (both same model)

    Manny 3s - Reply

    Yes, you can

    maccentric -

    When separating the display, be crazy careful with those tiny WiFi antenna wires you undid in step 9. One of mine came apart with almost no force whatsoever. If you do break one, reroute them when reassembling so that ports J0 and J2 on the Airport card have good connections. That’ll retain your laptop’s ability to connect to 5GHz WiFi if you’re unable to replace the entire antenna assembly.

    Taylor Rhodes - Reply

    I’ve made the replacement following each step, everything went well except when I turn on the Mac, I can see light in the screen it actually starts all clear in white light, but then it gets dark. The computer is working well I use a external monitor connected with a HDMI adaptor, but the Macbook monitor just doesn’t work, I checked the Flex cable, it is working good, camera, sound, wifi, everything.

    I don’t know what else to try. Could it be possible I just broke the mother board connection with the LCD?? Please help!

    Eunice SP - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

240 other people completed this guide.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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24 Comments

Just wanted to say thanks for the website, and easy to follow instructions! I just successfully replaced my girlfriends Macbook Pro screen today:)

Glenn - Reply

This display assembly will fit into an 13 in - Early 2011 macbook pro?

Kike Sr - Reply

No the connector in the logic board/video cable is slightly different.

Sean Istre -

Correct that the LVDS connectors are slightly different but you can modify them to fit using nail clippers if you are very careful!

Kit Marsden -

Yeah! I did it. I had to use two different guides todo thelcd screen.but my MacBook is clear and no giant black crack. The mid 2012 "glass". Is plastic...just saying.

cris99502 - Reply

Can you give us a link to the two other guides?

Lukas Speck -

My replacement display for this fix came with the display in a closed folded position, any suggestions for rotating the display clutches on the newly purchased screen so that I can manage to work it into place?

Matthew McCormack - Reply

Stick a screwdriver through the holes in the mounting brackets to give you enough leverage to twist them when the screen is removed.

WarfelWorks Studios - Reply

Technically the screen should work: both are driven via LVDS connector that look identical, both use the intel 4000 graphics chip.

However, the hinges screw position are in different positions. So, unless someone finds a way to fit the mid-2012 hinges onto the late-2012 screen assembly, then the next step would be to manually dismantle the screens and graft the late-2012 matrix inside the mid-2012 enclosure. Great to try if you have a few hundred bucks to burn.

cubytus - Reply

My girlfriend just bought a 2012 macbook pro and the little plastic on the bottom seems to pop out of place slightly and it’s a little annoying does anyone know a fix for this seems simple but i don’t wanna touch the computer till i’m sure

William Marrero - Reply

If you’re referring to the plastic bezel on the bottom of the display, the bezel is attached to the display assembly so if it is loose you’ll likely need to pop the display off the main chassis and reseat the bezel. You may be able to reseat the bezel without doing this but it will be a lot easier to fix it if you take the display out. Just follow the guide on replacing the display and then once you have the display removed you have better access to the bezel and can then lock it in better. If you need help reseating it just look online for info on reinstalling the bezel on the display.

Alexander Young -

Just wanted to say thanks! Bought a display assembly from you kind folks and had my mac up in running in less than an hour!

Taylor Cyle - Reply

Works Perfectly Thanks Andrew! Your Awesome, and to all the guys at fix it you guys rock

Sylvain Guerinet - Reply

An easy-to-follow, pretty much stress-free repair guide! With the step-by-step breakdown, I can pause for lunch if I want to, then get back to my repair at the correct step. Thank you SO much, AOG❣️

CarolAnne LeVert - Reply

The screens from MacBook Pro 13 mid 2012 and 2011 are COMPATIBLE 100%, I already did replacement - you need to open up just a little bit the females’s connector by the sides - 0.01mm (or something). I put 2011 screen on 2012 logic board. Write me for fotos, if interested.

Hristo Karakerezov - Reply

I’m curious. I am having a “double image” issue on my 2012 MacBook Pro 13” (unibody). Would replacing the display solve this issue?

Double image: There is an exact copy of whatever is on the screen appearing just below the “real” image. A ghost, or shadow image if you will. When I connect an external monitor to the laptop no double image is seen upon the external monitor, but still is prevalent on the MacBook screen.

iannai29 - Reply

I would probably first check to make sure the cable that’s connecting your Macbook display to the main board is seated properly before exploring the expensive display replacement. You may be just looking at a faulty connection between the board and the display. Worst case scenario, the connector itself on the main board is damaged in some way resulting in the bad connection. Which would be an expensive replacement. If the cable on the display itself is damaged, you’ll need a whole new display. But determining any of this is going to require testing on your part. I’d also consider the possibility the display panel itself is damaged as well.

Richard Young -

I took my screen off my macbook to tighten the hinges because it became loose. After I reassembled and turned on the machine, the screen no longer works. One mistake I made during disassembly was not disconnecting the power cable and I accidentally hit the power button while working on the machine. I don’t know if that has anything to do with it.

ralph - Reply

Hi

I have a MacBook Pro 13-Inch "Core i5" 2.5 Mid-2012 Specs.

Recently I changed my default HDD to the SDD and also replaced one of the default 2GB rams with an 8GB ram. (now the system totally have 10GB )

after turning up the laptop I saw some light which known as “stage light”.

Also, I tried to reconnect the LVDS cable, which is located between the fan and the edged of the body, however, “stage lights” are still there

ali - Reply

Gracias, realíce el cambio de la batería y me quedo increíble, gracias

Raul farias - Reply

anywhere suggestions where to buy replacement screen (model A1278) in EU?

Rasmus Nygaard - Reply

Hi, There. My mid. 2012 MB Pro’s screen is broken and i have that one of an 2011. Is it possible to replace it with the older one? Also same thing witht the DVD drive? In the isntructions everything looks exacly the same.

Help is much appreciated, Thanks!

Canoob - Reply

What if I only need to replace the glass, not the display?

Ted Milbaugh - Reply

Bonjour,

Merci pour vos tutoriels, toujours bien faits et explicites.

Pour le modèle mentionnée, j’aurais 2 questions:

- est-il possible de changer la dalle ou la vitre uniquement ?

- où acheter un écran complet ?

Merci d’avance de vos réponses.

Valentino

VALENTINO STANGHERLIN - Reply

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