Introduction
Upgrade your hard drive for more storage capacity!
Parts
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Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:
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Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
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Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.
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Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
why is step 3 necessary?
Quote from gansodesoya:
why is step 3 necessary?
Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.
$@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(
You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?
Berlugana
Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.
I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?
I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working
A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).
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Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)
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Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.
Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.
It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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Remove two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.
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Lift the the retaining bracket out of the upper case.
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Lift the hard drive by its pull tab and pull it out of the chassis, minding the cable attaching it to the computer.
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Remove the hard drive cable by pulling its connector straight away from the hard drive.
You can stop here if you only need to replace the hard drive, right?
Only if you don't want a hard drive in your MacBook Pro. ;P
*Step 7: REMOVE HDD
*Step 8: REPLACE HDD
Key steps if you need to save or access data. That is, unless you use an external HDD. Then yes, you can stop at step 7.
Straight-forward and easy to follow.
No problems except minor ones from not reading all the text...easily fixed by reading :-)
Used Carbon Copy Clone rather than Super Duper to clone drive.
I fixed it. I don't know which of the following did it. 1) I ran all software updates to the OS using the MacBook before transferring the drive again into the MBP, and 2) when I installed the drive I disconnected the battery – perhaps this reset the SMC. While booting, I held Option and it recognized the new HD right away. From then on, it booted fine.
Quote from Blake:
I did this exactly with a 7200 RPM WD Scorpio that I had been using in my MacBook 13" Unibody (before Apple discontinued that). I get a nasty crash on boot, even with the OS X 10.6 Install DVD. I mean BSOD-equivalent crash. The MacBook Pro is brand new. Anybody know why this happens?
This could be from the Apple firmware update for 7200 RPM Drives. They released an update because these were causing vibration that people were complaining about. Maybe it wouldn't function without update?
I guess it's probably my fault that I broke the SATA cable during this step (unless the cable was somehow already weakened), but for anyone reading this, be extra careful. My connector was fitted really tightly, and when it finally came out it ripped the cable, which is pretty expensive in its own right (although you can get a cheaper deal on eBay).
Had no issue since installation of a 7200RPM WD Scorpio 750GB drive and had no issues with vibration. I did notice back when I got this MacBook Pro though, the pre-installed Apple branded drive was only performing at half of the 3Gbps potential (1.5)
I could see letting Apple get away with that on a consumer level machine but for the premium price, I expect performance.
Needless to say even running the same HDD on my same MBP, I've had not a single problem with the HDD upgrade. Best money spent on it along with additional RAM.
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Remove the two T6 Torx screws from each side of the hard drive (four screws total).
Does anyone know how I can get another set of the T6 screws I took out of my old HD? I forgot to save them and now my new SSD rattles around in the laptop!
help
Have you tried calling your local Apple store? The screws Apple uses throughout their devices are usually machined in large quantities of "odd" lengths that are not easily (if at all) found anywhere but from them. Good luck!
Andy -
Hi there. We sell the Screw Set for the MBP 13" Mid 09 which includes the hard drive T6 screws you require. Hope this helps.
Are the screws for the hard drive available along? The problem is that the only answer I'm seeing (from Walter above) is a $59 for the 4 screws needed, there has to be a more economical choice.
Any assistance would be appreciated.
Hi, just followed all of the steps and installed a 240GB Toshiba OCZ TL100 SSD but now my laptop won't boot up. Every time I power it up I see a gray folder with a question mark.
I've tried holding Command + R during boot and a few other variations but still no luck. Any clue as to why it's not working?
PS - I'm a beginner when it comes to this so any guidance would really help. Thanks!
terrance li
I have faced same issue. are you still seeing it?
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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24 Comments
THANK YOU! I'm still on a high from repairing my husband's Macbook. It feels so nice to have two computers up and running again. You saved me nearly a grand, and made me realize how much I really did learn as a kid building PC towers with my dad.
I'm about to take this on. A little nervous as I haven't done anything like this before. When I get the new drive in, can I just restore from Time Machine? Do I actually need to reinstall the operating system first?
Replaced my HD a couple of days ago. I did disconnect the battery. No problems. Thanks iFixit!.
Installed osx (yosemite) on blank hard drive in 2010 macbook pro according to
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0K82njigC...
BUT instead of getting the spinning planet at first step, I got a padlock (apparently to keep non-apple employees from futzing around). However, the following got me past that point:
http://www.justanswer.com/mac-computers/...
and to be a little more descriptive than the link, with one memory stick out I held down r+p+option+command, hit power button until it restarted, and *continued* holding r+p+opt+command as it rebooted (screen on, off, fan&cd noises were the only indication) like 4 or 5 times.
THAT got me past the padlock but then there was another problem getting the new OS (non-descriptive error message "there was a problem..."). The solution there was to open terminal and change the date according to
https://bensmann.no/changing-system-date...
Finally it was smooth sailing after that.
Hi, I got the 1TB SSD Hybrid you have listed above. Regardless of what I try, my computer does not recognize it. It sees the 32GB flash drive I used for an install disk and it sees my USB external drive where I have the time machine backup. But it just can't see this drive. Is there any troubleshooting for this product? Thanks!
Hi Robbyglasco, Have you been able to fix the issue? I'm having the same problem :-)
lkaravis -
I know this is a long time after the event for both of you, but for others Im pretty sure that this will be that you haven't yet formatted the SSD in Disk Utility. Before you can reinstall from Time Machine you have to go into Disk Utility and format the SSD. You get to Disk Utility from the option screen after you have booted the computer with "Command and R" (cmd-R).
I have same issue. I bought mid 2010 compatible hard drive from amazon and hard drive cable. I installed it but hard drive is not getting recognized when i start computer with option + cmd + R keys pressed and held. I changed to different hard drive and then getting error with code 3404F. I connected ethernet cable to get wired internet instead of wireless but still no luck. Any sugessions anybody?
I just used this guide to replace my HD with a 1TB SSDH. Smooth process since I had already upgraded RAM (16GB) and changed the battery. I got an USB Universal Drive Adapter, cloned my old disk, swapped drives, and ready to go.
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Thanks iFixIt, my MBP Mid 2010 has a new life for under $250.
Hi Luis:
Can you list the items you purchased to upgrade with the 1TB SSD drive? I have a Mid-2010 MB Pro (Model 7,1) and getting close to maxing out the 250 GB drive. I figure, time for a battery replacement, upgrade the RAM and go to SSD drive.
Thank you very much. This made the job much easier than it would have been if I had to figure it out for myself.
I replaced a 5 year old 320GB hard drive with a new 1TB hard drive. I first cloned the drive by attaching the new one via a USB dongle and running Carbon Copy Cloner. Then I booted the new drive via USB to confirm that it was properly cloned.
Then I followed the directions here. It took all of 15 minutes to do, because I knew exactly what to expect and had all the necessary tools on-hand. Your web site is an incredibly valuable resource. Thanks again.
Hi guys!
So I just replaced by HHD with a solid 240GB Hyperx Savage from Kingston and something funny is happening. I am able to create the OS partition and clone my HHD into the new one and when conected through the USB port, my Mac recognizes it. However, when using the SATA connector, it just loads the apple icon bar and stalls forever....
I've tried the trim thing with the Sensei app and I've also tried to install El Capitan from the Recovery mode. None would work. Same problem all the time. I read there might be a compatibility issue with Macs mid 2009 and I'm just thinking this could be affecting the mid 2010 as well?
Any ideas would be welcome....
Thanks!!
Hey! I have the exxxact same problem. Did you find it out??
Ferhat -
My original HD failed catastrophically trying to force quit MS Word (ugh). This guide was very helpful for replacing my HD. After some unguided tinkering to pry open my portable external drive, I was able to swap it into my MBP with no trouble. Thanks!
My computer didn't recognize the 500gb seagate at first as a drive to restore onto. I had to add a new name under that in disk utility. Then went back to restore from time machine (external hard drive) and the drive was there with the new name!!
The HD in my mid2010 Mac was failing. I bought a replacement on eBay, 'Migrated' my files and settings to it after installing Mac OS and then booted from it via USB to check it was working. Relpacing the faulty drive was a doddle thanks to this clear, concise, accurate guide. Go raibh míle maith agat! (Gaelic for 'Thank You!')
I replaced my hard drive with an SSD, and now it rattles in the carriage. What can I do to ensure that it stays put?
Does 15mm HDD not too big?
I bought mid 2010 compatible hard drive from amazon and hard drive cable. I installed it but hard drive is not getting recognized when i start computer with option + cmd + R keys pressed and held. I changed to different hard drive and then getting error with code 3404F. I connected ethernet cable to get wired internet instead of wireless but still no luck. Any sugessions anybody? I am getting gray color folder with question mark in it. anybody can help?
It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.
scott523 - Reply
The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!
iphonetechtips -
A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.
johnsawyercjs -
Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."
In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.
johnsawyercjs -
One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.
Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:
http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...
Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.
johnsawyercjs -
Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.
David Fear -
Perfect man!Many thanks!:)
wertaerte - Reply
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
twisk - Reply
thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.
BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.
xitxit2 -
i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big
plins718 - Reply
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Reply
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/
Eric Sorenson - Reply
Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.
danzeitlin -
I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.
jonathanmorgan - Reply
I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.
john - Reply
Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?
Igor - Reply
The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.
Some info here:
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...
"1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"
"*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."
Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.
Winston -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Reply
I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.
tarriojuan - Reply
Had no idea they were so expensive.
Franklin - Reply
Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.
Luis Soto - Reply
There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?
Luis - Reply
If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.
gkofga - Reply
What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.
John Doe -
<i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>
I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)
THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.
Joseph King - Reply
It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...
Mike - Reply