MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Battery Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the battery in your MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010.

Replace the battery in your MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010.

Relevant Parts

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the following tri-wing screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • One 5.5 mm tri-wing screw.

    • One 13.5 mm tri-wing screw.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Lift the battery out of the upper case.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

You guys are awesome! My granddaughter spilled a whole coke on the Mac and it went fizz! After some weeks I took it to the Apple store where it was declared it dead. They offered me a refurbished machine for $800, but insteaed I came home, took the disk out and hooked it via a USB carrier to another Mac which proved that the disk had not been harmed. I put it back in the machine and booted up at which point it became obvious that the battery was dead. One pass at Google turned up IFixIt where I found the battery and the correct, goofy tri-point screwdriver. The battery arrived a bit ago and the Mac is up and running as if nothing happened . . . a tidy savings of $650!

Thanks so much1

amzbay, · Reply

This was a total life saver! A few weeks ago my house was hit by lightning and even though my computer wasn't plugged in (thank God!) my charger was completely fried. I ordered a new charger but my computer still wasn't working- Apple said my computer was done for. A friend said it was probably my battery and told me about ifixit.com. I was able to buy a new battery and change it myself (it was so easy!!!). Saved me from spending a bunch of $$ at the Apple store. I move out of the Country in a few weeks and didn't know what I was going to do without a computer. Thanks ifixit!!!

talithab, · Reply

Though Apple says this battery should be replaced only by Apple without damage. Is this BS?

Wayne, · Reply

Worked like a charm:)

NickDanielWright, · Reply

Awesome tutorial! It worked out great for me. Thanks!!

MLoren, · Reply

Ordered everything from ifixit and followed the guide -- it worked perfectly and saved me a ton of money. Thank you!

mstombaugh735, · Reply

It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

scott523, · Reply

The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

iphonetechtips,

Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

wertaerte, · Reply

Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

twisk, · Reply

thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

xitxit2,

i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

plins718, · Reply

Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

mastover, · Reply

I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

adlerpe,

That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

joyitsjennie,

The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

Eric Sorenson, · Reply

Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

danzeitlin,

I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

jonathanmorgan, · Reply

I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

john, · Reply

Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

Igor, · Reply

The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

Some info here:

http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

"1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

"*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

Winston,

I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

valentinedhdh, · Reply

I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

tarriojuan, · Reply

Had no idea they were so expensive.

Franklin, · Reply

Where can I buy 5.5 mm tri-wing screw and 13.5 mm tri-wing screw ?

gansodesoya, · Reply

I have the same question? Where can you buy new screws. Apple put in these rediculous tri-screws.... The short one went in crooked and jammed. I couldn't get the long one back in at all, not sure why, but it's not catching a single thread.

My 2nd question is, what the alternative if you can't get the screws back in (e.g. some kind of tape). With only one screw only half way in and jammed, the battery doesn't seem to be moving around, so I think I'm ok, at least for now.

Mike Mullally,

similar issue here, I'd like to buy these bolts new. and it would be even better to buy new ones but with a philips head, not a triwing head. please let us know. thanks.

Manuel Torres,

Still no answers on this?

jasperr4, · Reply

You can get the tri-wings from ifixit directly - http://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Tri-wi...

or get the whole kit (like I did - it's excellent) - http://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Pro-Te...

Damian Haslam, · Reply

i have a triwing y1 and it doesn't work with my battery it seems to be too big, the triwings sold on ifixit are the same when it is written y1 ?

Grazia Fiore,

Just dropping saw someone with same name. :)

mdtorresjr, · Reply

Mine does not have triwing screws.... They have 5 points but none of my torx stuff works? What is it? I have one of your sets of 20 or so pieces and nothing works.....

Chris Babcock, · Reply

Used a knife and a rubber band to unscrew these.

dovydas54, · Reply

Did everything correctly, but now the battery doesn't charge. Do I have to do something in particular to make it work now that's installed? Thanks

Olivier, · Reply

Everything was so easy but that is not the highlight of it all; the replacement parts are cheaper than buying it from a local store here in Taiwan or in The Philippines.

mdtorresjr, · Reply

Olivier, to answer your question, please read the 1st comment in the Guide section at the top. :)

aspeegle, · Reply

I have the same problem as Oliver. Replaced the battery, it Works, but don't charge. I don't see any comment on this page that answer his question.

torbernhardsen,

I too encountered the same problem. After resetting the SMC (http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295), it resolved the problem.

2CentsNoneTheRicher, · Reply

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