MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Hard Drive Replacement

Replace the hard drive in your Late 2011 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody.

Use this guide to replace a dead hard drive.

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Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

  • Remove the lower case.

Edit Step 3 Battery Connection  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Battery Connection  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

Edit Step 5 Hard Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.

  • These screws will remain attached to the hard drive bracket.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the hard drive bracket.

  • The hard drive bracket may be firmly seated against the upper case.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Use the attached pull tab to lift the hard drive out of the upper case.

  • Don't try to completely remove the hard drive just yet. It is still attached to the hard drive cable.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Pull the hard drive cable away from the body of the hard drive.

  • Remove the hard drive.

Edit Step 9 Hard Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 6.0 mm T6 Torx hard drive retaining posts from the sides of the hard drive.

  • Transfer the hard drive retaining posts to your new hard drive.

  • If desired, transfer the pull tab over to your new hard drive.

  • If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.

  • If you upgraded your EFI Firmware ROM you can also perform an internet recovery.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Is there any specific order that's best for putting back the screws?

wtfjackiass, · Reply

Is it possible that my early 2011 macbook pro has T7 screws on the hd instead of the mentioned T6?

I tried removing the screws with a T6 and no luck, the driver seems to be too small. Thanks

Juan Carvajal, · Reply

Did everything as instructed for a new drive and now constantly getting three beeps. Can't resolve it. Apple says my RAM is wrong but I didn't touch it!

Matt Davis, · Reply

How do you install the Operating system once this has been done?

xdragoons, · Reply

Question: When installing an SSD (for example the 512 GB Solid State Drive - https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Mac/512-GB-...), do I need Trim Enabler? I'm finding contradictory solutions on the web, and am not sure what is best. Also, I read (here: http://blog.macsales.com/11051-to-trim-o...) that a so-called OWC SSD doesn't need Trim. I don't know what OWC is, and whether the before mentioned 512 GB Solid State Drive is a OWC SSD. Any advice on this matter? Thanks!

wannes, · Reply

Has anyone had issues with their fan running at full speed after replacing the hard-drive?

My new SSD (Samsung 840 EVO) runs fantastically in the MacBook Pro (13" late 2011), but the fans are now always on loudly whenever the computer is awake.

The guide doesn't show any separate HD temperature sensor, so I don't think I messed anything up.

Online it sounds like there's a potential HD firmware issue that could cause this, and the only solution is a software-based one. However, I would much prefer a real hardware fix (to ensure that the computer knows when the HD is too hot, for example). If anyone has the same issue or knows a fix, please post!

Demis John, · Reply

Does void the warranty?

jfondeur, · Reply

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

oakdragon12, · Reply

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

gunes314, · Reply

Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

Carlos Duarte do Nascimento, · Reply

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

John Adam Wickliffe, · Reply

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

renatumb, · Reply

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker, · Reply

Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

kschmesk, · Reply

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

Alex, · Reply

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

brian whittle, · Reply

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh, · Reply

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull,

This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

Steven Layton, · Reply

My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

Diego Hernandes,

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

ausmkv, · Reply

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

Peter, · Reply

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

John, · Reply

simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

toiu, · Reply

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

fasthans, · Reply

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

Diego Hernandes, · Reply

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

timgunkel, · Reply

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Sal Ergrapes, · Reply

T5, not T6 on mine.

pilzn, · Reply

Reinserting the tiny screws was a pain, until I discovered this: initially turn them counterclockwise, till the threads 'agree' and the screw drops down into it's threded slot. Then go clockwise and they seat properly.

Dave, · Reply

The paint on the screw threads makes it a little finicky to get them to 'find' the threading in their matching holes.

Bad words were said, but job complete.

Dave, · Reply

T6 were just too small to fit the screws of the retaining post, and T8 was just too big. I suspect a T7 will fit. I will get a T7 screwdriver and report back.

Beware other users: T6 as the guide suggests may not be the correct choice for all.

fludiumvatn, · Reply

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