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Introduction

Use this guide to replace the display assembly of your MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016.

Before starting this procedure, you may want to check with Apple to see if you qualify for a free repair. If your display’s backlight has stopped working, or the display shows vertical bright areas along the entire bottom of the screen (a.k.a. “stage lights”), your MacBook Pro may be eligible for Apple’s display backlight service program.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% charge before starting repairs.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Reply

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Reply

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Reply

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Reply

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Reply

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Reply

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Reply

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Reply

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Reply

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Reply

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Reply

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Reply

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Reply

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 6.2 mm screws

    • Four 3.4 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas

    Olivier Cecillon - Reply

    Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !

    c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .

    l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon

    Vincent Morault - Reply

    Bonjour Vincent,

    Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Claire Miesch -

    Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS

    Gilles Vigeral - Reply

    Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….

    Gilles Vigeral - Reply

  2. Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro. Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.
    • Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.

    • Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.

  3. Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

    The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.

    dkraemer2 - Reply

  4. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

  5. Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes. Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis. Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.
    • Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.

    • Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.

    • Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

  6. Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. Pull first at one corner, then the other. Pull to the side—not up.
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This can require a lot of force.

    On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.

    Cool_Breeze - Reply

  7. Remove the lower case. To reinstall the lower case: Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

  8. Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery. Remove the tape.
    • Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • Remove the tape.

    Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.

    Emmanuel Neff - Reply

  9. Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector. The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.
    • Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

    While the tape in this step was definitely attached to the ribbon cable, I accidentally pulled it off during Step 9, thinking that it was a tab to remove the larger tape covering the whole battery connector. It didn’t seem to do any harm.

    cdowney - Reply

  10. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

    Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?

    Jamie Near - Reply

    Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.

    Wayne Linder - Reply

    The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.

    William Brittain - Reply

  11. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket. Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

  12. Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way. Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.
    • Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.

    The cable is held down with adhesive. Be very gentle with the delicate cable as you peel it back.

    dkraemer2 - Reply

  13. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

  14. Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.

    SchroedersKater - Reply

  15. Remove the four 1.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the plastic covers on top of the display hinges. Remove both plastic hinge covers. Remove both plastic hinge covers.
    • Remove the four 1.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the plastic covers on top of the display hinges.

    • Remove both plastic hinge covers.

    Mine were T4

    dkraemer2 - Reply

  16. Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable.

    • Remove the cover.

    These are T4 screws on A1706 EMC 3163

    Rex Juggler - Reply

  17. Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector.

    • Remove the cover.

  18. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.
    • Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

  19. Remove the four 1.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two aluminum covers on top of the two display cable connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers.
    • Remove the four 1.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two aluminum covers on top of the two display cable connectors.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers.

    When re-installing the display, be careful to make sure that the display cable from the logic board sits properly ABOVE its connector on the display hinge.

    dkraemer2 - Reply

    What is the exact size of these screws? lost one trying to put it back in and trying to figure out what I need to buy

    laughing rice - Reply

    Step 20….those are T4 Torx screws, not T3.

    scott - Reply

  20. Remove the four 3.9 mm T5 Torx screws (two from each side) securing the antenna cable assembly. Also remove the twelve 1.1 mm P2 pentalobe screws (six from each side).
    • Remove the four 3.9 mm T5 Torx screws (two from each side) securing the antenna cable assembly.

    • Also remove the twelve 1.1 mm P2 pentalobe screws (six from each side).

    The 1,1mm screws are completly stuck, I have the screwdrivers but the screws are just not turning. Any tips how to take them off ?

    I tried other screwdrivrer and put a rubber on it while trying to take it off but nothing works,

    Gerard Soprani - Reply

    Had the same problem with my ‘quality’ P2 screwdriver. A dirt cheap set from Ya Xun, nr. YX-6025 saved the day

    Niels Beijer - Reply

    I found that a form downward pressure and gentle slowly increasing rotational pressure consistently worked

    david - Reply

    The 1.1 screws are at a slight angle (on the 2018 model, not sure about the 2017 one) so make sure you angle your screwdriver around 10° off vertical towards the rear edge of the machine.

    Cool_Breeze - Reply

    Stripped a number of these with two different repair kit screwdrivers (other brands). Waiting on a 3rd screwdriver to arrive and then will resort to super glue or a dremel to fit a tool to these and remove. Terrible time with this.

    ajdixon91 - Reply

    Just removing four LCD screen’s now. This is the worst part by far. I have what I thought was a reasonable quality Baku BK-338 P2 Pentalobe screwdriver. I am onto the third display removal and the WiFi antenna removal is where the fun begins. On the first two WiFi antenna, about five (too depressed to count them) screws rounded out in the pentalobe head. I managed to get them all out using flush cutters - gripping them with the cutters as flush as I could to the surface of the antenna and just trying to get them to rotate CCW a little to “break the seal“ so to speak without cutting in so deep as to totally mangle the head and locking them in even tighter :)

    Peter Newman - Reply

    Then I pushed them tangentially with one arm of some stout tweezers and slowly worked them out. Got them all out with minimal damage to the brass part of the antenna but I am confident it will still function OK. On the third one now and four rounded out so I better get back to it. A totally s**t way to attach them and far too many screws IMO. My biggest tip is using a quality tool like the Wera or Wira brands, pushing down into the screw and carefully and slowly applying rotation force. Have some flush cutters on standby in case you round any screws out and good luck.

    Peter Newman - Reply

    F# Apple for making pentalobe screws and f# them for using this many.

    Patrick Simons - Reply

    Wiha calls the P2 driver a 1PL

    maccentric - Reply

    Pay attention: in both sides the two 3,9 mm T5 Torx screws they are different from each other.

    DO NOT mix then otherwise you will won’t be able to install then again correctly.

    Manuel Da Silva - Reply

  21. Carefully disconnect the three antenna coax cables by prying them straight up from the logic board. Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it. To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
    • Carefully disconnect the three antenna coax cables by prying them straight up from the logic board.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

  22. Remove the 2.8 mm T5 Torx screw securing the three antenna coax cables to the main board.
    • Remove the 2.8 mm T5 Torx screw securing the three antenna coax cables to the main board.

  23. Use an opening pick to lever out the antenna cable assembly in the areas shown. Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, because there are two display cables that can be damaged. Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, because there are two display cables that can be damaged.
    • Use an opening pick to lever out the antenna cable assembly in the areas shown.

    • Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, because there are two display cables that can be damaged.

  24. Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat pipe. Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat pipe.
    • Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat pipe.

    Reversing this step was the hardest part for me. There is a small “tunnel” that runs under the heat pipe which the 3 antenna cables plus the securing bracket must be threaded through. The shortest cable easily got stuck or pushed off to the side under the heat pipe. After many attempts, I found success by bending the 3 wires ever so slightly to the left before inserting them in the tunnel, so that when they make it through the tunnel, they were more prone to stay straight. It was easy to grab them one by one with tweezers by doing that. Just have to be very careful.

    cdowney - Reply

    To easily fit the antenna cables – turn the whole antenna assembly about 90 degrees ccw and wiggle it a bit back and forth. Since the cables are a bit prebent they quite easily “pops” up – no need to tie them together. The last trick is to not forget the metal tab – using tweezers or a spudger to help guide the tab in position.

    John Ross - Reply

  25. Remove the antenna cable assembly.
    • Remove the antenna cable assembly.

    • During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.

    I had a LOT of trouble re-installing the three antenna cables underneath the heat pipe! The only way I could get them through was to use clear tape to bind the three antenna connectors together tightly into one pointy end. I was able to push that through into place, but I was not able to push the three separate wires through.

    dkraemer2 - Reply

    It’s possible to avoid this problem by just not removing the antenna assembly entirely. I secured the three cables and the screw holder together with a small cable tie to avoid them slipping out. You can fit the new screen without removing the assembly completely.

    Stuart Mc -

    Thanks dkraermer2 for that tip of wrapping all 3 wires into a narrow point. I used Capton tape. The metal screw holder needed help as it catches on a ridge in the MB. I used tweezers to “Lift” it over that last ridge.

    lamajr - Reply

    Make sure the antenna cable assembly locates correctly on reassembly. It is important to install this down onto its locating lugs, not pushing from the rear of the machine towards the front. There is a small ‘u’ shaped cutout on bottom of the assembly and a metal tab which must locate into the corresponding ‘u’ shaped lug and slot cut into the metal of the top case. If this is not located correctly there is a good chance that the screen will foul when opening and closing resulting in an audible click as it catches the antenna assembly.

    BrianS - Reply

    +1 for BrianS comment. The U shape is a placeholder for the antenna and is located at antenna center. If this ever happened to you, fold gently the antenna strip to leave 3 mm space from the antenna main block, and place the antenna center first in oder for the antenna to fit into the U shape properly.

    Xavier Fischer -

    +1 to both BrianS and Xavier Fischer’s comments above. Even when the lug and the cutout are identified, it’s not easy to tell if it’s been seated correctly until you test the hinge. I found Xavier’s suggestion worked.

    Stuart Mc -

    Putting the three antenna cables to snap onto the connectors again, It felt like I succeeded after much struggle. But after putting it all together - the screen is black. External monitor works though. 2 of 3 feels certain though as it seems on place.

    Martin Klasson - Reply

  26. Remove the four 3.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two display cable cover springs.
    • Remove the four 3.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two display cable cover springs.

    Step 27. These are T4 Torx screws, not T3 Torx. FYI

    scott - Reply

  27. Grab the left side of the display cable assembly and pull it towards the bottom end of the MacBook and away from the  cover spring. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the cover spring of the display cable out of its recess. Repeat this step with the right cover spring of the display cable assembly.
    • Grab the left side of the display cable assembly and pull it towards the bottom end of the MacBook and away from the cover spring.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the cover spring of the display cable out of its recess.

    • Repeat this step with the right cover spring of the display cable assembly.

  28. Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side. While steadying the MacBook pro with your free hand, remove the three T8 Torx screws from the lower display hinge.
    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

    • While steadying the MacBook pro with your free hand, remove the three T8 Torx screws from the lower display hinge.

    • Remove the remaining three T8 Torx screws from the upper display bracket.

    Should it not be saying: “Remove the remaining three T8 Torx screw from the upper display hinge.” rather than the lower display bracket..? It seems to me that the last instruction in this step does not correspond to the pictures on the left.

    Thomas Keulemans - Reply

    Thanks Thomas, it has been corrected.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    t7 is better, using t8 started to round my screws making it harder to remove

    David - Reply

    Loosen the screws while the MB is still flat on the table. They were tight.

    rezbuzzz - Reply

    This was pointed out by Paul Stanislawski of Rossmann repair in this video https://youtu.be/iXjg1LtlQUU. It’s very easy to damage the touch bar flex connector while removing the left hand LCD hinge bolts in step 29. Best to disconnect the flex from the logic board and exercise extreme caution when removing the LCD. See potential touch bar flex damage here https://imgur.com/a/ugAL94c

    Peter Newman - Reply

  29. Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step. Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinge brackets can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis. Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.
    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinge brackets can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

    • Remove the display/screen assembly, being careful not to snag it on any cables.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting or search our Answers community for help.

50 other people completed this guide.

Dominik Schnabelrauch

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21 Comments

Will this work for the a1708 model?

Lucas Zhu - Reply

Hello Lucas Zhu,

the interior build of the A1708 model is a bit different to this one. Especially the connection of the battery. You can check our guides for the A1708 model for the disconnection procedure. The removal of the display in general, is more or less the same with a few differences (e.g. two instead of 3 coax cables). Although the A1708 is a different model you might be able to remove the display following this guide.

Dominik Schnabelrauch -

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!! You made my life so much easier. This guide was thorough and definitely made things a lot easier to understand.

Dana Altier-Jeske - Reply

I disagree with your difficulty level. I found this much harder than a standard display due to the size and number of tiny screws.

mayer - Reply

Thanks for the guide! I’ve completed mine around 1 1/2 hours while being really careful not to short-circuit any components. Other video that I used for reference: https://youtu.be/153tVLIZVm8 and https://youtu.be/bEDhEWLrkUs

firdaus.abhar - Reply

Thanks!

This took me more than 2 hours to remove and replace the display. By far the most time-consuming step was removing and re-feeding the antenna wires under the heat pipe. (See my suggestion above.)

The other Guides for display removal for the other similar MacBook Pro models (2017, non-touch bar, etc.) list times of 20 or 30 minutes. Those times are totally unrealistic, at least for first times through the process.

dkraemer2 - Reply

Great guide! I completed on the A1706 in a little under 2 hours. Re-performing Step 25 on re-assembly was the hardest part. Other than that, pretty standard repair with the proper tools. Thanks for posting!

cdowney - Reply

Thanks for taking the time to document the display replacement procedure. I used these instructions to replace a display for a late 2016 function key Macbook Pro 13” A1706 model. There are two antenna cables in a different location on the on the earlier model. I did not remove them and was able to move the antenna cable assembly while still attached and easily manipulate the screen connection assembly round it. The twelve 1.1 mm P2 screws used to hold the antenna cable assembly in place are minute and I had to hold them in forceps in order to load them on to the screwdriver and then screw them into place - very fiddly. The spring hinges of the display cable were tricky to put back in too. Otherwise went as described in the guide.

lostculture - Reply

Thanks for the very thorough guide I managed to replace my screen in about 1 hour 45 mins taking alot of care.

After I have replaced the screen the touchbar seems to be functioning visually but is unresponsive to touch. Ive tried to kill the touch bar agent via terminal and activity monitor. I just wondered if you may have any guidance or advice as to what might have happened and how I can fix it :)

Thanks in advance,

Danny

Danny - Reply

Same happend to me. Let me know if you find a solution. So far I am using “TouchBarServer.app” to compensate. I think I found it on Github

Felix J -

FYI

Not to disparage commerce for the good people of iFixit but check this link before you take the plunge to repair your 13” MacBook Pro Model A1706. It might qualify for a free repair.

https://support.apple.com/13-inch-macboo...

Happy trails or whatever you’re on.

pkeenan8 - Reply

No disparagement taken! Great tip, added to the guide introduction. Thanks for chiming in.

Jeff Suovanen -

The tiny P2 screws are the only challenge - get a sturdy P2 driver. After you do a few of these they’re cake. I can swap out the display and touch bar in 60-90 mins max. Use ESD safe mat and tweezers so you don’t break any fragile cables.

Ted Teske - Reply

Thank you for the guide! Und die deutsche Übersetzung natürlich!

I could change the display successfully even though I dont have a lot of experience in this stuff. I have to warn though that these models are very fragile; I probably broke my touchbar in the process. Its not responding to touch interactions anymore.

Felix J - Reply

Perfect guide! took me 3 hours total…. which i actually enjoyed and what a great feeling after it’s done and

you have a brand new computer again. Thank you .

ilya - Reply

Thanks for the great instructions! Almost everything works perfectly after following these instructions. However, there is one issue: the camera does not work. If I look at the system report, under “Camera” it says “No video capture devices were found.” and if I open photo booth it says “There is no connected camera”. I’ve tried re-booting, but with no luck. Any ideas what I might have done wrong? Besides the camera, everything else seems to be fine.

Jamie Near - Reply

Great guide, except now my computer won’t power on - apparently, that Touch ID/Power button needs to be “Re-Packed”, which requires that Apple does it - and they say another new screen is required to do it. And, possibly, a logic board.

The repair will cost more than buying a new computer…

Richard Belson - Reply

HI, I just do the fix and the camera is not working

jaffar - Reply

I completed the screen replacement as per the guide on an A1706 MacBook Pro in running OS 11.2.2 (Big Sur)

Mechanically, everything went fine, but when I booted up again the display was garbled and flickering, including on an external monitor. Did all the usual stuff (NVRAM/SMC reset, booting up is safe mode, reinstalling OS) but to no avail.

So I popped into the my nearest Apple accredited repair shop for them to have a look. They confirmed to me that I’d installed the new screen perfectly but told me that :

A. There is a “calibration” that needs to be don’t in order for the new screen to work,

B. It can only be done by a registered technician

C. It can’t be done on a “third party screen” i.e. one that hadn’t been sourced directly from Apple (who don’t sell spares to the public)

Have other people come across this? The fact that dozens of people have completed the repair with out issue would suggest it’s bulls**t. Or is this something that’s been snuck in with big sure to prevent DIY repairs?

sjflaher - Reply

Flickering on an external screen would not be caused by lack of calibration on the built-in display. Apple’s techs are required to perform a calibration step when they replace almost any part, but it’s not necessary in order for a new display to work—We’ve tested this many times. Even the term “calibration” can be misleading here, as often all they’re doing is verifying the repair with Apple’s servers so that the repair shop can get paid by Apple for completing the repair.

Normally when we see problems on both internal and external displays, I’d suspect a bad GPU, but it’s odd that it happened immediately after your repair. Does the external monitor flicker regardless of which port it’s plugged into? Have you tried them all? If so, I’d probably move your question to the Answers forum and maybe run through the standard troubleshooting checklist before going further. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

once youve done acouple you do better and better, the first ones the worst one. I still put the ifixit guide up when im doing a repair, i dont trust me because ive know myself all my life. so haveing this in the background makes it easier

Love_ Your_Pitty - Reply

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