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Introduction

Use this guide to replace the display assembly of your MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016.

Before starting this procedure, you may want to check with Apple to see if you qualify for a free repair. If your display’s backlight has stopped working, or the display shows vertical bright areas along the entire bottom of the screen (a.k.a. “stage lights”), your MacBook Pro may be eligible for Apple’s display backlight service program.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% charge before starting repairs.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Reply

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 6.2 mm screws

    • Four 3.4 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

  2. Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro. Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.
    • Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.

    • Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.

  3. Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

    The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.

    dkraemer2 - Reply

  4. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

  5. Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes. Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis. Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.
    • Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.

    • Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.

    • Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

  6. Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. Pull first at one corner, then the other. Pull to the side—not up.
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This can require a lot of force.

  7. Remove the lower case. To reinstall the lower case: Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

  8. Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery. Remove the tape.
    • Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • Remove the tape.

  9. Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector. The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.
    • Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

    While the tape in this step was definitely attached to the ribbon cable, I accidentally pulled it off during Step 9, thinking that it was a tab to remove the larger tape covering the whole battery connector. It didn’t seem to do any harm.

    cdowney - Reply

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  11. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

  12. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket. Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

  13. Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way. Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.
    • Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.

    The cable is held down with adhesive. Be very gentle with the delicate cable as you peel it back.

    dkraemer2 - Reply

  14. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

  15. Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

  16. Remove the four 1.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the plastic covers on top of the display hinges. Remove both plastic hinge covers. Remove both plastic hinge covers.
    • Remove the four 1.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the plastic covers on top of the display hinges.

    • Remove both plastic hinge covers.

  17. Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable.

    • Remove the cover.

  18. Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector.

    • Remove the cover.

  19. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.
    • Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

  20. Remove the four 1.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two aluminum covers on top of the two display cable connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers.
    • Remove the four 1.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two aluminum covers on top of the two display cable connectors.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers.

    These do not need to be removed.

    In fact, these screws and covers came already installed on my replacement display.

    dkraemer2 - Reply

    When re-installing the display, be careful to make sure that the display cable from the logic board sits properly ABOVE its connector on the display hinge.

    dkraemer2 - Reply

  21. Remove the four 3.9 mm T5 Torx screws on both sides, which secure the antenna cable assembly. Also remove the twelve 1.1 mm P2 pentalobe screws on both sides.
    • Remove the four 3.9 mm T5 Torx screws on both sides, which secure the antenna cable assembly.

    • Also remove the twelve 1.1 mm P2 pentalobe screws on both sides.

    The 1,1mm screws are completly stuck, I have the screwdrivers but the screws are just not turning. Any tips how to take them off ?

    I tried other screwdrivrer and put a rubber on it while trying to take it off but nothing works,

    Gerard Soprani - Reply

    Had the same problem with my ‘quality’ P2 screwdriver. A dirt cheap set from Ya Xun, nr. YX-6025 saved the day

    Niels Beijer - Reply

  22. Carefully disconnect the three antenna coax cables by prying them straight up from the logic board. Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it. To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
    • Carefully disconnect the three antenna coax cables by prying them straight up from the logic board.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

  23. Remove the 2.8 mm T5 Torx screw securing the three antenna coax cables to the main board.
    • Remove the 2.8 mm T5 Torx screw securing the three antenna coax cables to the main board.

  24. Use an opening pick to lever out the antenna cable assembly in the areas shown. Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, because there are two display cables that can be damaged. Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, because there are two display cables that can be damaged.
    • Use an opening pick to lever out the antenna cable assembly in the areas shown.

    • Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, because there are two display cables that can be damaged.

  25. Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat pipe. Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat pipe.
    • Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat pipe.

    Reversing this step was the hardest part for me. There is a small “tunnel” that runs under the heat pipe which the 3 antenna cables plus the securing bracket must be threaded through. The shortest cable easily got stuck or pushed off to the side under the heat pipe. After many attempts, I found success by bending the 3 wires ever so slightly to the left before inserting them in the tunnel, so that when they make it through the tunnel, they were more prone to stay straight. It was easy to grab them one by one with tweezers by doing that. Just have to be very careful.

    cdowney - Reply

  26. Remove the antenna cable assembly.
    • Remove the antenna cable assembly.

    • During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.

    I had a LOT of trouble re-installing the three antenna cables underneath the heat pipe! The only way I could get them through was to use clear tape to bind the three antenna connectors together tightly into one pointy end. I was able to push that through into place, but I was not able to push the three separate wires through.

    dkraemer2 - Reply

    Thanks dkraermer2 for that tip of wrapping all 3 wires into a narrow point. I used Capton tape. The metal screw holder needed help as it catches on a ridge in the MB. I used tweezers to “Lift” it over that last ridge.

    lamajr - Reply

    Make sure the antenna cable assembly locates correctly on reassembly. It is important to install this down onto its locating lugs, not pushing from the rear of the machine towards the front. There is a small ‘u’ shaped cutout on bottom of the assembly and a metal tab which must locate into the corresponding ‘u’ shaped lug and slot cut into the metal of the top case. If this is not located correctly there is a good chance that the screen will foul when opening and closing resulting in an audible click as it catches the antenna assembly.

    BrianS - Reply

  27. Remove the four 3.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the spring hinges of the two display cables.
    • Remove the four 3.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the spring hinges of the two display cables.

  28. Grab the left side of the display cable assembly and pull it towards the bottom end of the MacBook and away from the  spring hinge. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the spring hinge of the display cable out of its bracket. Repeat this step with the right spring hinge of the display cable assembly.
    • Grab the left side of the display cable assembly and pull it towards the bottom end of the MacBook and away from the spring hinge.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the spring hinge of the display cable out of its bracket.

    • Repeat this step with the right spring hinge of the display cable assembly.

  29. Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side. While steadying the MacBook pro with your free hand, remove the three T8 Torx screws from the lower display hinge.
    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

    • While steadying the MacBook pro with your free hand, remove the three T8 Torx screws from the lower display hinge.

    • Remove the remaining three T8 Torx screws from the lower display bracket.

  30. Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step. Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinge brackets can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis. Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.
    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinge brackets can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

    • Remove the display/screen assembly, being careful not to snag it on any cables.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting or search our Answers community for help.

22 other people completed this guide.

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Member since: 11/23/2016

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11 Comments

Will this work for the a1708 model?

Lucas Zhu - Reply

Hello Lucas Zhu,

the interior build of the A1708 model is a bit different to this one. Especially the connection of the battery. You can check our guides for the A1708 model for the disconnection procedure. The removal of the display in general, is more or less the same with a few differences (e.g. two instead of 3 coax cables). Although the A1708 is a different model you might be able to remove the display following this guide.

Dominik Schnabelrauch -

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!! You made my life so much easier. This guide was thorough and definitely made things a lot easier to understand.

Dana Altier-Jeske - Reply

I disagree with your difficulty level. I found this much harder than a standard display due to the size and number of tiny screws.

mayer - Reply

Thanks for the guide! I’ve completed mine around 1 1/2 hours while being really careful not to short-circuit any components. Other video that I used for reference: https://youtu.be/153tVLIZVm8 and https://youtu.be/bEDhEWLrkUs

firdaus.abhar - Reply

Thanks!

This took me more than 2 hours to remove and replace the display. By far the most time-consuming step was removing and re-feeding the antenna wires under the heat pipe. (See my suggestion above.)

The other Guides for display removal for the other similar MacBook Pro models (2017, non-touch bar, etc.) list times of 20 or 30 minutes. Those times are totally unrealistic, at least for first times through the process.

dkraemer2 - Reply

Great guide! I completed on the A1706 in a little under 2 hours. Re-performing Step 25 on re-assembly was the hardest part. Other than that, pretty standard repair with the proper tools. Thanks for posting!

cdowney - Reply

Thanks for taking the time to document the display replacement procedure. I used these instructions to replace a display for a late 2016 function key Macbook Pro 13” A1706 model. There are two antenna cables in a different location on the on the earlier model. I did not remove them and was able to move the antenna cable assembly while still attached and easily manipulate the screen connection assembly round it. The twelve 1.1 mm P2 screws used to hold the antenna cable assembly in place are minute and I had to hold them in forceps in order to load them on to the screwdriver and then screw them into place - very fiddly. The spring hinges of the display cable were tricky to put back in too. Otherwise went as described in the guide.

lostculture - Reply

Thanks for the very thorough guide I managed to replace my screen in about 1 hour 45 mins taking alot of care.

After I have replaced the screen the touchbar seems to be functioning visually but is unresponsive to touch. Ive tried to kill the touch bar agent via terminal and activity monitor. I just wondered if you may have any guidance or advice as to what might have happened and how I can fix it :)

Thanks in advance,

Danny

Danny - Reply

FYI

Not to disparage commerce for the good people of iFixit but check this link before you take the plunge to repair your 13” MacBook Pro Model A1706. It might qualify for a free repair.

https://support.apple.com/13-inch-macboo...

Happy trails or whatever you’re on.

pkeenan8 - Reply

No disparagement taken! Great tip, added to the guide introduction. Thanks for chiming in.

Jeff Suovanen -

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