Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
17
Time Required
30 minutes - 1 hour
- Lower Case 3 steps
- Battery Connector 3 steps
- Display Assembly 11 steps
Featured Guide
This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.
Introduction
Use this guide to replace the Retina display, display glass, and iSight camera assembly.
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
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Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.
To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily
If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!
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I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.
If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.
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A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.
I have done tons of these battery replacements.
You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.
Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…
Dear Sir,
as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.
I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …
I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?
Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.
When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.
+1
I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!
Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!
The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.
You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.
After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.
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If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-
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Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board.
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Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.
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The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.
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The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.
When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.
thank you Joshua, this helped me get them. they do take a bit of patience but it’s worth taking your time.
I saw the sleeves on these.. and when looking at the replacement display saw they matched exactly and took the chance it was intentional. The only thing that got me.. was the bottom panel screws.. didn't know there were 3 types.. (should have known though, I mean right?! LOL Apple (rolls eyes) They could do like Samsung and use one screw for everything.. but oh no.. there is some OCD engineer that just likes SCREWING with people!
Pro Tip: When reassembling, do not screw on the metal tab attached to these connectors (part of step 15) until after you have all 3 connected. This gives you uninhibited range of motion for the 3 wires. Go slow as other commenters have said. Start with the shortest wire first. Once all 3 are connected, screw on the metal tab with those 2 screws. Finally double check that all 3 are still connected.
I found an alternative method. That is NOT to disconnect these three tiny wires but instead, leave them attached to the AirPort board and remove the AirPort board itself and let it dangle safely to one side with all three antennae cables attached.
@macnb, if you’re replacing the display, which is what these instructions are for, then you *must* disconnect these wires, as the new display includes new ones!
Yes you are correct WHEN replacing the WHOLE display/LCD.
In my case I was ONLY replacing the LCD display CABLE. So in my case it was not necessary to remove the wireless antenna (since I was not replacing them).
I remove the screw and pull out the Air Card, then after I get the new screen in I remove the Air Card from the connectors, making sure I notice which goes to which, and reattach them by holding the new Air Card in my left hand then with my right hand placing the connector over the spot where it connect, then using my thumb nail to press down the wire until it snaps. Much easier to manipulate the wires and where it connects with the Air Card out of it Socket.[br]
Chap Gleason[br]
Laptops for Missionaries
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Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
First, lift the flat cable just off the board as it is normally “stuck” to the board. This will help the connector to release from the socket.
Ripped cable from logic board? Step 9.5
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Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Please use a nylon black stick to lift the lock bar up and push the connection apart reason being is the lock bar should not be pulled on and by pulling on it like shown may cause damage to the MLB/DISPLAY connection and then you’re into not just a display repair but a MLB on top of it!!!
hello, im trying to do this because im experiencing a blackscreen problem. Id like to do this but my macbook looks so different than this one. Could anyone help me?
If it doesn’t look like this, you’re looking at the wrong guide.
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Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges.
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Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets (one on each side of the Macbook).
I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them
Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set
The T5 in the set I bought from LaptopScreen.com was too big and started to strip these screws. Got an Ace Hardware brand one instead and it worked great.
Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.
These were T4 not T5 size for me
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Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.
Vorsicht beim Wiederzusammenbau! Diese Schraube ist bei mir am Kopf abgebrochen, als ich sie etwas zu fest hineingedreht habe. Musste das Teil dann notdürftig mit Klebeband fixieren.
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Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.
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Remove the four outer 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.
Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?
On my model, there was a thin piece of translucent plastic covering the left-side outer screws. It peeled off easily. It must be replaced upon reassembly. When removing these two (left-side) screws, a metal assembly securing the antenna wires was released below the screws. It must be replaced before reassembling these two screws.
The translucent plastic on those screws is the adhesive that holds the rubber hinge covers in place. Sometimes it stays attached to the hinge cover, sometimes it stays on the screws.
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Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly clockwise, toward the top of the display, so the display brackets clear the edge of the upper case.
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Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.
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Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them
Excellent guide, Andrew! I am an ACMT and when disconnecting the eDP cable, I like to use the pointed ends of two spudgers (Apple calls them ‘black sticks’) to push the connector straight back out of the socket by pushing on its edges. This prevents any stress to the locking bar and also helps to ensure that the connector is disconnected evenly. For reassembly, I line up the connector carefully and once the pins are all lined up and the cable connector partially inserted, I push on the back edges on either side of the connector with the pointed ends of two spudgers, ‘walking’ the connector back into place so that it is even on both sides.
Also, when disconnecting the camera cable connector from the logic board, I use the same method as above, situating the points of the sticks into the notches on each side of the connector and pushing straight back vs walking it back. I do the same thing when reconnecting the cable, but I ‘walk’ it back as mentioned above with the eDP cable connector.
Also, once I have removed the clutch covers, I remove the two screws holding the metal antenna grounding loop in place (first picture in Step 15 of your guide). I move the loop out of the way and reinstall the two screws just until the heads of the screws make contact with the metal surface of the hinge. I loosen all of the rest of the screws and then tighten them back down just until the screws stop turning (without torquing them). I thoroughly brush off the surface area of the ESD mat where I am going to situate the MacBook for the next step, and then flip it over and open the display 90 degrees. I flip the machine back over and rotate it 90 degrees so that the ‘Apple’ logo on the back of the display lid is facing me, inverted, and the display hinges are much closer to me. After carefully scooting the machine back just until the display makes contact with the edge of the table, I pull the display up toward me to open it fully. I then carefully remove the hinge screws.
For removal, you simply need to lift up slightly on the top edge of the display (possible once the 6 hinge screws have been fully removed) until it has cleared the recesses of the top case. It can then be lifted out without any hassle and you should not need to use any paper clips as mentioned in previous comments. I hope this helps someone; it is knowledge I have gained from following Apple’s Service Guides and experience from having replaced hundreds of displays in a short amount of time. We are an AASP on a university campus, so display repairs are VERY common (from mostly student customers).
Excellent guide. My IT guys were scared to touch my mac but I did it myself. Thanks to ifixit
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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203 other people completed this guide.
57 Comments
Just complete this over lunch and it was cake - no pun. Follow the instructions and you'll be back to new in about 30 minutes. The toughest part is getting all those little screws out, so be patient and just know it's worth the squeeze. Take care, AZ
Is display assembly for Late 2013/Mid 2014 compatible with this model?
Hi, I have same question, and I think its not fully compatible, I tried to put 2014 display on 2015 and its have issue with backlight at startup, for example if you press "ALT" at startup to chose startup disk, screen remains all the time dark only with flash light you can see its working and if you chose disk and only after some 5 seconds backlight will turn on, if I put old original broken display but with working backlight it will turn on backlight straight with the "chime" and yes with new 2014 display its not lighting up straight after chime only after some 5 seconds or so, but after that works fine.
artc -
Hi, last night i was watching a movie in my MBP E2015, and out of nothing, gave me "the gift" of a black screen... i tried everything i found in forums, reset SMC PRAM/NRAM, safe mode, force reboot, well, you name it, i tried it with no luck... i opened the MB and re-connected the display cable to what see if something happens, and nothing... i can only see the contents of the screen when using HDMI on a tv (i also can see stuff in the screen when pointing a flashlight in the dark screen, that makes me think its fixable) should i start thinking of replacing the whole display? any suggestion would be appreciated, thanks!
DanielD
Hi Daniel,
I am having the same problem, did you find a solution yet?
Thanks.
That usually means that the backlight on your display has broken, so the 'screen' part is still receiving an input from the computer, but the light behind it that makes the screen bright enough for you to see it, has broken. So, either it is a loose connection for the backlight, or the whole backlight is dead. If the latter is true, the whole display component must be replaced.
Hi Daniel, what did you do to fix it? Any help would be appreciated thanks! :)
Srujana -
The backlight ist broken. I think you have to replace the screen, but there is a small chance that its just the disconnected backlight cable
Hi, I was facing the same problem after replacing the screen. While a broken backlight is of course a possible explanation, in my case it was something else.
I can not clarify completely what the problem was but after several tries of rebooting with SMC PRAM/NRAM reset, the issue vanished after opening and closing the screen a few times. Sorry for not beeing able to give clear instructions what to do. I just wanted to let you know that it is worth trying a few things before giving up. Could it be related to the Hall-sensor that recognizes whether the screen is open or closed?
Markus
Markus -
Sounds like a failure in the voltage supply for the LCD backlight, but is unlikely to warrant a full display assembly replacement. It might be worth taking it to a decent repair shop, as it could mean replacing and soldering small board components in the power supply regulation for the LCD connector.
How skilled do you have to be to do this repair?
It does say moderate difficulty, however in all honesty it's pretty easy if you know how to go slow, keep track of screws, and not force anything. Of course, helps to have experience inside the MacBook to know your way around, too, but I'd say that's probably not necessary :)
I think the answer is a firm NO but is it possible to replace a cracked early 2015 MBP retina screen with a late 2011 non-retina screen? Thanks!
definetly no
I had two machines, one that wouldn't power on but the screen was fine, and one that had a cracked screen but booted up fine. Tried swapping the displays and couldn't get the good unit to power on at all. Tried swapping back to the broken display, and still can't get the unit to power on. Now I've got two machines that won't power on. Anyone need a couple paperweights? ;-)
Do you still have these?
Just used these instructions to replace my screen and it went perfect. Couldn't be happier.
Perfect! Replacing the display was such a breeze, just saved a ton on money.
Hey!
Spilled a small amount of wine on my keyboard a while back and did the usual, turn it off and upsidedown etc and it was fine.
A couple of weeks later it bagan to flikker from time to time. Oddly enough the flicker speed would change in conjunction with the keyboard backlight streangth so i assumed there was a short somwhere on the logicboard due to some sugar gunk somwhere. I opened it and cleaned all the gunk i could find but it didnt help. Looks pristene again now (to the eye obv.).
A couple of days ago a new behaviour: Now if i leave it off or closed for a long time the screen comes on and works for about 25 mins. If i close it and reopen it works for a period of time related to how long it was closed. I'm totally baffeled, maybe something to do with a capasitor charging? Above my paygrade.
The last thing i can think to do myself is change the LVDS cable, but from this it looks like its embedded in the monitor. Is there a way to do it without buying a new screen?
Sorry for life story. Thanx!
Can any body tell me that parts assembly unit includes ?
such as camera, wifi etc ??
i handed over my machine to istore for replacement of display unit. so i want to know what i need to check when they will return my machine to me ?
Wi-Fi, camera (and camera light ofc) and display (that the screen works)
Thank you so much for this. I was quoted 400 euro to get a replacement screen fitted. I located one online and assembled it myself with help from your guide. Thank you for the help.
Feel like sharing the website mate? Corelle.Williamson@gmail.com
I just did this! It was terrifying but not too difficult. For sections that I struggled on, reading the individual comments for each step helped. New display is beautiful!
Just replaced my display using your guide. It was a breeze! Thanks soooo much!
Worked for me, thanks!
Excellent Guide!
Hervorragende Anleitung!
Steckverbindungen lassen sich nicht immer leicht lösen, am besten dann mit zwei der empfohlenen Werkzeuge gleichzeitig vorgehen.
- 5. Schritt: Um zu Vermeiden, dass sich der Konnektor während der Reparatur versehentlich wieder mit dem Board verbindet, empfehle ich einen dünnen Streifen Isolierband dazwischen zu kleben, dann kann man sich das Zurückbiegen sparen. Das Lösen der Verbindung war nicht leicht, wenn man wie in der Anleitung nur von links anhebt. Ich empfehle auch hier, stets im Wechsel von links und rechts anzuheben, und dabei sehr behutsam vorzugehen.
- 8. Schritt: Zusammenstecken der Verbindungen beim Wiederzusammenbau erfordert Geduld, geht leichter mit zwei Werkzeugen gleichzeitig.
- 9./11. Schritt: Nach dem Umklappen des Bügels am besten mit zwei Pinzetten/Spudgern gleichzeitig arbeiten und im Wechsel von links und von rechts seitlich zur Ecke hin wegziehen.
My issue is the anti-reflective coating is deteriorating badly - the display behind it is fine! Any way to replace just the coating, or just the glass, rather than the entire display? It’s just the coating - all the rest behind it is in great shape!
i believe that there is a special repair program for that issue. i had one with that problem and apple replace the screen assembly for free outside of warranty
At the start of this tutorial, remind the reader again to power off the computer. One gets so excited about actually having the teeny tiny screwdriver for screws on the case, that one forgets to power down!
Ist es möglich das Display-Scharnier irgendwie so zu bearbeiten, dass das Display nicht mehr so leicht auf und zuklappt?
Big big thank you!
Hi, i have a questions, i have a MBP 2015 and i have to change the display the disp on a MPB 2013-2014 work on the 2015 ?
Thank you so much for this guide! Just swiched my wife’s old scratched screen for a new one and it feels like a whole new computer!
The guide was very comprehensive and straightforward! The hardest part about it was to find a place nearby where they sold the screwdrivers I needed.
Great job!
i got my screen broken and lower inch of display lost bought a replacement from Aliexpress
it took 45 mn I got one of the new screen antenna connector socket disconnected took sometime to reconnect (be careful with the shortest cable) otherwise the guide was perfect thank you all the contributors and saved 150$ on repair another 50$-100$ in the part
Hello, is a screen from any other model of macbook compatible with an A1502?
Hey everybody. The display from my Macbook Pro 2015 13” is broken. So I installed another display from a macbook pro which I bought on Ebay(which was sold as very slow). When I started my mac, it was extremely slow (fan loud, mac laggy). Did SMC reset- no chance.
I then reinstalled my broken display and guess what- my Mac runs normal. Then after some thinking, I put back the „new“ display to my Macbook but without connecting the Isight Camera Cable and guess again: the mac runs normal!! So this means that my Macbook (and probably the one I bought on Ebay) runs extremely slow when the Isight camera cable is connected.
That does not make sense to me! I mean, I am happy to have a nice retina display back on my mac, but why is the connection of the isight making so much trouble? Would be interesting to know that.. thanks.
Hey all: similar situation, but with some additional info.
Took the screen of another Macbook Pro 13” 2015.
=> When camera cable is connected, than the Macbook is super slow, not possible to work with it. After PVRAM Reset, the Fan is not roaring. However, it is super slow. Tools like TG PRo indicated that Hardware Fan is turned off. HOWEVER, Photobooth works, the Camera actually WORKS!!! This means that it is not a faulty camera, but something else.
=> When camera cable is disconnected, Macbook runs smooth like always, Fan goes on when needed. Normal temperature everywhere. But then of course no Camera.
So in short, with camera cable connected, Macbook is not usable, however, the camera works and is therefor not faulty! Is there something else connected to this camera cable? Some hidden sensor to make screen replacement unusable??
Anyone have a good source for the A1502 early 2015 screen (display only)? I can only find the whole screen assembly available which costs more then the laptop is worth.
3) OKAY THAT IS FUNNY! It works now. I put the Macbook into sleep, connected the iSight cable. Of course, it didnt recognize it. But after a restart, camera worked AND the Mac was not slow anymore, NO roaring fan! Couple of restarts later and it still works!! Hows that possible ?! But yeah so stoked now about that
Thank you for the guide: I would not have attempted this repair without the walkthrough, but it was not bad in the end. You saved my wife’s laptop after she closed it on a binder clip! An expensive part, but it was still a good laptop and nice to keep it out of the trash.
I have a 2013 MacBook Pro 13" that doesn't boot anything, and a 2015 MacBook Pro 13" that works great except cracked screen. The wifi antennas match, the display cable port matches, only issue is with the iSight camera doesn't fit (or if it does, I'm not sure). Is the iSight camera from 2013 MacBook Pro 13" the same camera that a 2015MacBook Pro 13" has or are they different? (Both are A1502)
For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?
Carlos - Reply
Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.
Fredrik -
I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!
marketing - Reply
I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!
On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.
Dustin Steward - Reply
Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.
All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.
All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.
When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.
doubleclutch - Reply
This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.
Evan Shulman -
A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.
Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.
doubleclutch - Reply
Hi peeps,
I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.
However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.
Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.
dom
colonel mustard - Reply
Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws
1. Pack of post it notes
2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note
3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is
ibash - Reply
Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:
yes > /dev/null
in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.
I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.
And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)
You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.
Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.
Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?
Andre van der Ham - Reply
Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol
Chat Dawgie - Reply
Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!
N DesRochers - Reply
Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.
chaslaw - Reply
I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop
Pete James - Reply
It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.
Marv Ruona - Reply