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Introduction

Use this guide to replace the Retina display, display glass, and iSight camera assembly.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Reply

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Reply

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Reply

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Reply

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Reply

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Reply

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Reply

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Reply

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Reply

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Reply

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Reply

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Reply

  2. The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Reply

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Reply

  3. If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Reply

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Reply

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Reply

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Reply

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Reply

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Reply

  5. Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Reply

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Reply

  6. Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
    • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

    • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

  7. Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board. The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly: Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board.

    • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

    This is most difficult and time consuming portion of this entire procedure. Make sure to lift the connectors straight up - not to damage them. The reconnection of the contacts may take several tries. USE CARE AND BE PATIENT! You will eventually get them to connect.

    Darius - Reply

    does anyone have advice on what is the best tool to use for reconnecting? this is definitely the hardest step to reassembly

    M N - Reply

    When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.

    Joshua Johnson - Reply

    thank you Joshua, this helped me get them. they do take a bit of patience but it’s worth taking your time.

    Kevin Lynch -

    I got it! line the wire up; push the top part of the metal and give it firm pressure; they should snap in and connect

    M N - Reply

    You'll get 'em in. Work gently. Make sure they're exactly over top the bottom pins. Press down with a flat smudger. It took me a lot of gentle work to get them in.

    Kent - Reply

    I saw the sleeves on these.. and when looking at the replacement display saw they matched exactly and took the chance it was intentional. The only thing that got me.. was the bottom panel screws.. didn't know there were 3 types.. (should have known though, I mean right?! LOL Apple (rolls eyes) They could do like Samsung and use one screw for everything.. but oh no.. there is some OCD engineer that just likes SCREWING with people!

    Tim - Reply

    Pro Tip: When reassembling, do not screw on the metal tab attached to these connectors (part of step 15) until after you have all 3 connected. This gives you uninhibited range of motion for the 3 wires. Go slow as other commenters have said. Start with the shortest wire first. Once all 3 are connected, screw on the metal tab with those 2 screws. Finally double check that all 3 are still connected.

    D B - Reply

    I found an alternative method. That is NOT to disconnect these three tiny wires but instead, leave them attached to the AirPort board and remove the AirPort board itself and let it dangle safely to one side with all three antennae cables attached.

    Mac Neur-Berg - Reply

    @macnb, if you’re replacing the display, which is what these instructions are for, then you *must* disconnect these wires, as the new display includes new ones!

    jiclark - Reply

    Yes you are correct WHEN replacing the WHOLE display/LCD.

    In my case I was ONLY replacing the LCD display CABLE. So in my case it was not necessary to remove the wireless antenna (since I was not replacing them).

    Mac Neur-Berg -

  8. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    First, lift the flat cable just off the board as it is normally “stuck” to the board. This will help the connector to release from the socket.

    John Lopinto - Reply

    Ripped cable from logic board? Step 9.5

    iSight Camera broken off logic board

    jcob - Reply

  9. Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing. Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing.
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing.

  10. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab. During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab.
    • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab.

    This is pulled straight out to the side of the Macbook, not up.

    nmackaron - Reply

    Thanks for adding this comment !

    jrbhome - Reply

    Please use a nylon black stick to lift the lock bar up and push the connection apart reason being is the lock bar should not be pulled on and by pulling on it like shown may cause damage to the MLB/DISPLAY connection and then you’re into not just a display repair but a MLB on top of it!!!

    Dutchie - Reply

    hello, im trying to do this because im experiencing a blackscreen problem. Id like to do this but my macbook looks so different than this one. Could anyone help me?

    Karla Díaz - Reply

    If it doesn’t look like this, you’re looking at the wrong guide.

    maccentric -

  11. Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges. Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges. Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges.
    • Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges.

  12. Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets on either side of the Macbook. Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets on either side of the Macbook.
    • Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets on either side of the Macbook.

    I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them

    harveyhalfpint - Reply

    Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set

    Steven Fillingham - Reply

    This is 1 screw on each side (not 2 on each side). They are circled in red.

    nmackaron - Reply

    The T5 in the set I bought from LaptopScreen.com was too big and started to strip these screws. Got an Ace Hardware brand one instead and it worked great.

    Brian Hultin - Reply

    Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.

    Mertensa Hens - Reply

    These were T4 not T5 size for me

    Praj Basnet - Reply

  13. Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges. During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook. During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

    • During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook.

    Vorsicht beim Wiederzusammenbau! Diese Schraube ist bei mir am Kopf abgebrochen, als ich sie etwas zu fest hineingedreht habe. Musste das Teil dann notdürftig mit Klebeband fixieren.

    ——-

    Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.

    Mertensa Hens - Reply

  14. Remove the four outer 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case. Some models may use T9 Torx screws rather than T8.
    • Remove the four outer 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

    • Some models may use T9 Torx screws rather than T8.

    Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

    Michael Kwok - Reply

    On my model, there was a thin piece of translucent plastic covering the left-side outer screws. It peeled off easily. It must be replaced upon reassembly. When removing these two (left-side) screws, a metal assembly securing the antenna wires was released below the screws. It must be replaced before reassembling these two screws.

    Ralph Begleiter - Reply

    The translucent plastic on those screws is the adhesive that holds the rubber hinge covers in place. Sometimes it stays attached to the hinge cover, sometimes it stays on the screws.

    maccentric -

  15. Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end on the table, as shown. While holding the display with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.
    • Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end on the table, as shown.

    • While holding the display with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

    • Be sure the display and upper case are balanced and will not fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  16. Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly clockwise, toward the top of the display, so the display brackets clear the edge of the upper case. Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case. Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly clockwise, toward the top of the display, so the display brackets clear the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    • Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

    When replacing the display assembly with a new one, the new hinges may be very hard to move into the 90 degree position. We found it helpful to loop a paperclip into the screw hole of the hinge to facilitate pulling open the hinge.

    Eric - Reply

    Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them

    Steven Fillingham - Reply

    The paper clip is a great tip. I also used the spudger flat end under the hinge and the metal side of the case as leverage to push it up.

    D B - Reply

    Excellent guide, Andrew! I am an ACMT and when disconnecting the eDP cable, I like to use the pointed ends of two spudgers (Apple calls them ‘black sticks’) to push the connector straight back out of the socket by pushing on its edges. This prevents any stress to the locking bar and also helps to ensure that the connector is disconnected evenly. For reassembly, I line up the connector carefully and once the pins are all lined up and the cable connector partially inserted, I push on the back edges on either side of the connector with the pointed ends of two spudgers, ‘walking’ the connector back into place so that it is even on both sides.

    Also, when disconnecting the camera cable connector from the logic board, I use the same method as above, situating the points of the sticks into the notches on each side of the connector and pushing straight back vs walking it back. I do the same thing when reconnecting the cable, but I ‘walk’ it back as mentioned above with the eDP cable connector.

    Ez Bless - Reply

    Also, once I have removed the clutch covers, I remove the two screws holding the metal antenna grounding loop in place (first picture in Step 15 of your guide). I move the loop out of the way and reinstall the two screws just until the heads of the screws make contact with the metal surface of the hinge. I loosen all of the rest of the screws and then tighten them back down just until the screws stop turning (without torquing them). I thoroughly brush off the surface area of the ESD mat where I am going to situate the MacBook for the next step, and then flip it over and open the display 90 degrees. I flip the machine back over and rotate it 90 degrees so that the ‘Apple’ logo on the back of the display lid is facing me, inverted, and the display hinges are much closer to me. After carefully scooting the machine back just until the display makes contact with the edge of the table, I pull the display up toward me to open it fully. I then carefully remove the hinge screws.

    Ez Bless - Reply

    For removal, you simply need to lift up slightly on the top edge of the display (possible once the 6 hinge screws have been fully removed) until it has cleared the recesses of the top case. It can then be lifted out without any hassle and you should not need to use any paper clips as mentioned in previous comments. I hope this helps someone; it is knowledge I have gained from following Apple’s Service Guides and experience from having replaced hundreds of displays in a short amount of time. We are an AASP on a university campus, so display repairs are VERY common (from mostly student customers).

    Ez Bless - Reply

    Excellent guide. My IT guys were scared to touch my mac but I did it myself. Thanks to ifixit

    Soul Reaver - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

184 other people completed this guide.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Member since: 10/17/2009

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48 Comments

Just did this for my wife. Awesome! Thank you!

Josh Way - Reply

Just complete this over lunch and it was cake - no pun. Follow the instructions and you'll be back to new in about 30 minutes. The toughest part is getting all those little screws out, so be patient and just know it's worth the squeeze. Take care, AZ

Advisor King - Reply

Is display assembly for Late 2013/Mid 2014 compatible with this model?

Payton James - Reply

Hi, I have same question, and I think its not fully compatible, I tried to put 2014 display on 2015 and its have issue with backlight at startup, for example if you press "ALT" at startup to chose startup disk, screen remains all the time dark only with flash light you can see its working and if you chose disk and only after some 5 seconds backlight will turn on, if I put old original broken display but with working backlight it will turn on backlight straight with the "chime" and yes with new 2014 display its not lighting up straight after chime only after some 5 seconds or so, but after that works fine.

artc -

Hi, last night i was watching a movie in my MBP E2015, and out of nothing, gave me "the gift" of a black screen... i tried everything i found in forums, reset SMC PRAM/NRAM, safe mode, force reboot, well, you name it, i tried it with no luck... i opened the MB and re-connected the display cable to what see if something happens, and nothing... i can only see the contents of the screen when using HDMI on a tv (i also can see stuff in the screen when pointing a flashlight in the dark screen, that makes me think its fixable) should i start thinking of replacing the whole display? any suggestion would be appreciated, thanks!

DanielD

Daniel Dugarte - Reply

Hi Daniel,

I am having the same problem, did you find a solution yet?

Thanks.

Jaymes Milner -

That usually means that the backlight on your display has broken, so the 'screen' part is still receiving an input from the computer, but the light behind it that makes the screen bright enough for you to see it, has broken. So, either it is a loose connection for the backlight, or the whole backlight is dead. If the latter is true, the whole display component must be replaced.

Dominic Rogers -

Hi Daniel, what did you do to fix it? Any help would be appreciated thanks! :)

Srujana -

The backlight ist broken. I think you have to replace the screen, but there is a small chance that its just the disconnected backlight cable

Peter Penner -

Hi, I was facing the same problem after replacing the screen. While a broken backlight is of course a possible explanation, in my case it was something else.

I can not clarify completely what the problem was but after several tries of rebooting with SMC PRAM/NRAM reset, the issue vanished after opening and closing the screen a few times. Sorry for not beeing able to give clear instructions what to do. I just wanted to let you know that it is worth trying a few things before giving up. Could it be related to the Hall-sensor that recognizes whether the screen is open or closed?

Markus

Markus -

How skilled do you have to be to do this repair?

Anay Bhakat - Reply

It does say moderate difficulty, however in all honesty it's pretty easy if you know how to go slow, keep track of screws, and not force anything. Of course, helps to have experience inside the MacBook to know your way around, too, but I'd say that's probably not necessary :)

Nathanael -

Is the screen or displays connection to the graphics the same as the 2015 13" Macbook Air?

Nate - Reply

I think the answer is a firm NO but is it possible to replace a cracked early 2015 MBP retina screen with a late 2011 non-retina screen? Thanks!

Jacob Kaucher - Reply

definetly no

Peter Penner -

I had two machines, one that wouldn't power on but the screen was fine, and one that had a cracked screen but booted up fine. Tried swapping the displays and couldn't get the good unit to power on at all. Tried swapping back to the broken display, and still can't get the unit to power on. Now I've got two machines that won't power on. Anyone need a couple paperweights? ;-)

Nathan Beranger - Reply

Do you still have these?

George Dapaah -

Just used these instructions to replace my screen and it went perfect. Couldn't be happier.

Derik Hammes - Reply

Perfect! Replacing the display was such a breeze, just saved a ton on money.

Kartavya Sharma - Reply

Hey!

Spilled a small amount of wine on my keyboard a while back and did the usual, turn it off and upsidedown etc and it was fine.

A couple of weeks later it bagan to flikker from time to time. Oddly enough the flicker speed would change in conjunction with the keyboard backlight streangth so i assumed there was a short somwhere on the logicboard due to some sugar gunk somwhere. I opened it and cleaned all the gunk i could find but it didnt help. Looks pristene again now (to the eye obv.).

A couple of days ago a new behaviour: Now if i leave it off or closed for a long time the screen comes on and works for about 25 mins. If i close it and reopen it works for a period of time related to how long it was closed. I'm totally baffeled, maybe something to do with a capasitor charging? Above my paygrade.

The last thing i can think to do myself is change the LVDS cable, but from this it looks like its embedded in the monitor. Is there a way to do it without buying a new screen?

Sorry for life story. Thanx!

james Trickey - Reply

the Apple cracked and when I went to open my MacBook the screen it’s self is fond however the imaging is lined out. When I plug a monitor in I can see the what I am doing. Because the screen isn’t cracked does this mean I have to get an new screen and assembly?

Kay Sachs - Reply

Can any body tell me that parts assembly unit includes ?

such as camera, wifi etc ??

Shahid Amin - Reply

i handed over my machine to istore for replacement of display unit. so i want to know what i need to check when they will return my machine to me ?

Shahid Amin - Reply

Wi-Fi, camera (and camera light ofc) and display (that the screen works)

Edvard Schreiner Sjøblom -

Thank you so much for this. I was quoted 400 euro to get a replacement screen fitted. I located one online and assembled it myself with help from your guide. Thank you for the help.

Kevin Lynch - Reply

Feel like sharing the website mate? Corelle.Williamson@gmail.com

corelle williamson -

I just did this! It was terrifying but not too difficult. For sections that I struggled on, reading the individual comments for each step helped. New display is beautiful!

Lauren Mata - Reply

Just replaced my display using your guide. It was a breeze! Thanks soooo much!

RASTAGURL1 - Reply

Worked for me, thanks!

Isaac Ellmen - Reply

Excellent Guide!

Rudolph Wood - Reply

This excellent guide helped me to replace a broken display :)

Thank you very much!

Bruno - Reply

Hervorragende Anleitung!

Steckverbindungen lassen sich nicht immer leicht lösen, am besten dann mit zwei der empfohlenen Werkzeuge gleichzeitig vorgehen.

- 5. Schritt: Um zu Vermeiden, dass sich der Konnektor während der Reparatur versehentlich wieder mit dem Board verbindet, empfehle ich einen dünnen Streifen Isolierband dazwischen zu kleben, dann kann man sich das Zurückbiegen sparen. Das Lösen der Verbindung war nicht leicht, wenn man wie in der Anleitung nur von links anhebt. Ich empfehle auch hier, stets im Wechsel von links und rechts anzuheben, und dabei sehr behutsam vorzugehen.

- 8. Schritt: Zusammenstecken der Verbindungen beim Wiederzusammenbau erfordert Geduld, geht leichter mit zwei Werkzeugen gleichzeitig.

- 9./11. Schritt: Nach dem Umklappen des Bügels am besten mit zwei Pinzetten/Spudgern gleichzeitig arbeiten und im Wechsel von links und von rechts seitlich zur Ecke hin wegziehen.

Mertensa Hens - Reply

My issue is the anti-reflective coating is deteriorating badly - the display behind it is fine! Any way to replace just the coating, or just the glass, rather than the entire display? It’s just the coating - all the rest behind it is in great shape!

aaronlewis - Reply

i believe that there is a special repair program for that issue. i had one with that problem and apple replace the screen assembly for free outside of warranty

norse walt -

L’écran d’un Macbook Pro mi-2013 non retina peut-il se monter sur un Macbook Pro mi-2015 retina ?

Tom - Reply

very good directions

QuickTech - Reply

At the start of this tutorial, remind the reader again to power off the computer. One gets so excited about actually having the teeny tiny screwdriver for screws on the case, that one forgets to power down!

Ted Kaehler - Reply

Ist es möglich das Display-Scharnier irgendwie so zu bearbeiten, dass das Display nicht mehr so leicht auf und zuklappt?

bukkitcity - Reply

Big big thank you!

szymczak121 - Reply

Hi, i have a questions, i have a MBP 2015 and i have to change the display the disp on a MPB 2013-2014 work on the 2015 ?

Edhys Santos - Reply

Thank you very much for a brilliant, clear and well-explained guide!

Don - Reply

Thank you so much for this guide! Just swiched my wife’s old scratched screen for a new one and it feels like a whole new computer!

The guide was very comprehensive and straightforward! The hardest part about it was to find a place nearby where they sold the screwdrivers I needed.

Great job!

Joaquin Sinay - Reply

Thank you for the detail. I need to reseat the LVDS cable and this guide was the piece that I was missing. Great instructions.

Derrick C - Reply

This guide’s identical to the guide for the 2013-2014 Macbook Pro, which is also model number A1502. Are they identical and can I use a screen from a 2015 model MBP for a 2014 model?

Isaac - Reply

i got my screen broken and lower inch of display lost bought a replacement from Aliexpress

it took 45 mn I got one of the new screen antenna connector socket disconnected took sometime to reconnect (be careful with the shortest cable) otherwise the guide was perfect thank you all the contributors and saved 150$ on repair another 50$-100$ in the part

Alfaric - Reply

Hello, is a screen from any other model of macbook compatible with an A1502?

Mariajose Nieblas - Reply

Brilliant, I can’t say more than that.

matt - Reply

Okay now how do I get the new screen back on the hinges…

Emily - Reply

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