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Introduction

Use this guide to replace the MagSafe DC-In board.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.

    Toby Thurston - Reply

    Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.

    timofej.se -

    This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue

    Susan Greer - Reply

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 3, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 3, image 3 of 3
    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Battery Connector: step 4, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

    Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

    Andrew - Reply

    when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).

    i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?

    Kait D - Reply

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

    • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

    • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Battery Contact Board: step 9, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Battery Contact Board: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

    • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

    How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

    Raunak - Reply

    you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.

    duncan rmi -

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Heat Sink Assembly: step 10, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board assembly:

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 3.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Four 2.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    Hi,

    found 4 rubber spacers on the 4 2,5mm screws

    ddagonetroppo - Reply

    Also found the rubber caps on the 4x2.7mm - didn't bother to replace the caps and didn't have any problems with them.

    Rand Bell - Reply

    • Lift and remove the heat sink up off the logic board assembly.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, I/O Board Data Cable: step 12, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, I/O Board Data Cable: step 12, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

    • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 2
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

    • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 1
    • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Right Fan: step 15, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Right Fan: step 15, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Right Fan: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the right fan ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    Hey! You skipped a step!

    What about the cable (don't know what it does) that runs right across the fan, interfering with pulling the fan out.

    It's still in place in Step 14, but here in Step 15 it's magically removed itself, and can be seen resting luxuriously on top of the Airport card.

    How do we get that outta there?

    Victor Gavenda - Reply

    Like @victorgav mention, Just need a step before this one, which is to remove the cable that goes across the top of the fan.

    David Borjas - Reply

    Thanks for bringing this up! It looks like the guide was missing the iSight cable disconnection steps. I’ve added the missing steps.

    Arthur Shi -

    This cable simply plugs into its silver connection housing. So to remove simply wiggle it out gently with a pair of tweezers

    Wasim - Reply

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board assembly.

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 1
    • Lift and remove the right fan out of the upper case.

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Left Fan: step 18, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Left Fan: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board assembly.

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 2
    • Lift and remove the left fan out of the upper case.

    • Make sure to pull the left fan straight away to simultaneously pull the left fan ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: step 21, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: step 21, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: step 21, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the edges of the I/O board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 22, image 2 of 2
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the keyboard backlight connector and the logic board.

    • Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 23, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 23, image 3 of 3
    • Grab the black pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  22. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 1
    • Pry the headphone jack cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  23. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 25, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 25, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

  24. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 26, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 26, image 3 of 3
    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

  25. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 27, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 27, image 3 of 3
    • Repeat the previous procedure to disconnect the Trackpad ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

    I discovered that if the trackpad cable is damaged the keyboard will not work. I replaced the trackpad cable which had two damaged Ribbon pens. Once TP cable was replaced the keyboard also worked!

    lamajr - Reply

  26. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 28, image 2 of 2
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

    • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

  27. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  28. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 30, image 2 of 2
    • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

    • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

  29. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the nine 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board and MagSafe DC-in board to the upper case.

  30. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 32, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully grasp the corner of the logic board (opposite of the I/O ports) and lift the logic board out of the upper case.

    When re-installing the Logic board, be careful not to trap any of ZIF cables under the board.

    You’ll need to tilt the board up from the end away from the DC-IN board in order to get the IO connectors inserted all the way. Be careful with the little fingers on top of the IO connectors.

    I had previously replaced the battery with the Newer Tech battery. The battery cable is not as flexible as the original battery, making the removal and insertion of the trackpad cable difficult.

    Jay Seaman - Reply

  31. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, MagSafe DC-In Board: step 33, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, MagSafe DC-In Board: step 33, image 2 of 2
    • Gently push the edges of the MagSafe cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended "walk" the connector out of its socket. Simply push the top and bottom corners of the connector and carefully "walk it out" of its socket.

  32. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 1
    • Pull the MagSafe cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

9 other people completed this guide.

Sam Goldheart

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2 Comments

Thanks a lot for this guide ! I completed it with no problems… I never did this kind of unmount/repair and thanks to the iFixit  Essential Electronics Toolkit, ++Arctic Silver Thermal Paste++ and Arctic Silver ArctiClean it was a breeze to complete. I think I have put too much thermal paste but it is no problem. The macbook now works like a charm.

Martin Michiels - Reply

Missing instructions on how to remove iSight camera cord during removal of right fan.

You can find it under step 15 of the logic board removal.

Otherwise so far it’s a great tutorial.

Daniel McCulley - Reply

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