Introduction
Use this guide to remove or replace the USB-C board in a Late 2020 MacBook Air (M1).
What you need
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If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.
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Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:
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Two 7.9 mm screws
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Two 7.3 mm screws
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Six 2.6 mm screws
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Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop off the lower case.
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Remove the lower case.
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Set it in place and press firmly to engage the two hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and unlatch the metal locking arm on the battery connector.
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Lift straight up on the metal locking arm to pull the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
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If necessary, push the rear, wire side of the connector into place first, then rock the front of the connector into place.
If having difficulty in flipping the bar up, place the machine vertical and not that there is a small “locking nib” that the bar has to clear. You may have to give the bar honest persuasion to clear the nib.
The bar can lock backwards making it very hard to even see let alone move. Great care is needed to shift it. I had to use two thumbnails, one on each side, then once flipped forward it takes more push than I expected to clip it in place. Ensure the plug is fully seated first !
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the USB-C connector cover.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.9 mm screws securing the USB-C board.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Once you've completed your repair, your laptop may not power back on until connected to power.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Once you've completed your repair, your laptop may not power back on until connected to power.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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17 Comments
This guide was excellent. Easy & painless, even though it was the most complex repair I've taken on myself. Thanks for saving time & money.
Do you sell the screws for the usb c board? I have lost one of the 1.4mm torx screws which hold down the connector of the usb board.
This was quite easy, thanks so much Carsten!
where can I get the part for my computer MacBook Air M1 2020 Usb-C connector model A2337 EMC 3598 serial CO2FN1R2Q6LC.
Where can I buy it online....
If you're in selected countries in Europe or the USA, you can now order this part from Apple directly using their Self Service Repair store :)
Worked well. Took about 30 mins because I think the power connector didn't go on fully the first time. Had to plug it into a power adapter first before it would turn on by itself with the power button.
yes, that is always like that. After battery is disconnected, next laptop start must be with charging cable.
Both of us followed this guide and it seems not to have worked. I've done successful repairs in 2015 and earlier, but this 2020 computer is much harder to work with. The step that likely went wrong was plugging the new part into the logic board. It was also tricky to get the old part out and new part in.
Perfect thank you, I would say this guide made the process easy not moderate. Great saving fixing the port myself. Thank you again
Anyone have suggestions on how to get the USB-C module out (step 8)? It is a little hard to remove it given the angle and how tight everything is.
I just ordered my replacement from iFixit's Amazon store here for $15.99: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085WC4212?psc...
If you pull the ribbon connector up a bit and just jimmy it while lifting up and out it'll come out.. but it is in there quite snugly. A nice easy replacement though! Found that I too had to plug in a USB-C power source to boot the first time after putting everything back together.
Awesome, I just replaced the USB C on M1 Air, took just 10 minutes. Thanks a lot.
success! awesome guide!
i recorded this fix and uploaded it to my YouTube channel. if anyone's interested: https://youtu.be/bUd97uoBMBk
I did the repair but noticed that the problem extends to the logic board the female port where you connect the usb card has a tiny burn on it. Is there any way to replace the female port that is on the logic board without having to replace the entire logic board? If so name or serial number of part and either a link to a tutorial/ or video of this repair would be massively appreciated. Thanks!
ESD safe mat, plugged into ground, with a wrist strap, also grounded, are the best best to protect the logic board.
Robin Ray - Reply
Re-Assembly Tip: Before putting the screws back in, snap the lower case on and test to make sure the MacBook powers up. When I first re-assembled, I became very nervous I did something wrong because it would not power on. It turns out I just needed to plug the laptop into a power source for it to power up (despite having a good charge before disassembly). It was the perfect way to test the new USB-C ports!
Austin - Reply
Big points to this one, especially for mentioning needing to plug the laptop in. The bottom case needs to be screwed in and laptop needs to be plugged in before it will boot.
Bayden Yazalina -
Wiha 4PL driver for these screws.
Greg Worrel - Reply
Printing out all the images from this Ifixit guide prior to starting and using duct tape help me keep track of screws.
raju midjdeya - Reply