Skip to main content


  • May cause kernel Panic with hibernation on certain MBA, this guide applies to Early 2015 model only*
  • The 2015 MBA only has 4 PCI-e lanes so you will not be able to take full advantage of NVMe drives*
    • MacBook Air Late 2010 - Working - High Sierra, Catalina, M2 Samsung Evo 860, Adapter

    • MacBook Air 2011 - Unknown

    • MacBook Air 2012 - Unknown

    • MacBook Air 2013 - Unknown

    • MacBook Air 2014 - WD_black 500 + Sintech adapter, running MacOS Big Sur

    • MacBook Air Early 2015 - WORKING- Mojave 10.14.3 to Big Sur 11.0.1- Crucial P1 SSD NVME, Adapter.

    • MacBook Air 2017 - WORKING - High Sierra, Catalina and Big Sur - Samsung Evo 960, Adapter.

    • MacBook Air 2018 and forward - will not work, No removable drive

    Can confirm also that this same setup works on a MacBook Pro 13” Retina Early 2015. Mojave 10.14.5 with Rivo NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter and 1TB Crucial P1 SSD NVMe

    Before Upgrade from 128GB Apple (samsung) SSD: < 220 MB/s read/write speeds from disk

    After: 1200MB/s read/write with the Crucial P1 1TB PCI channels read as an NVMe device in System Information

    joshuafiddler - Reply

    Thank you for following up!

    Dan -

    Have some bad news… suddenly started getting frequent kernel panic from this mod.

    when I installed, it worked flawlessly until July 25, 2019 when I started getting kernel panic when on battery.

    I knew I had to replace my battery soon, it was just under 90% of design capacity. But the error was always kicked out by iokit specifically from IONVMeFamily 2.1.0

    Bought an iFixit Battery, installed it on 28 July. Calibrated it according to the instructions. Still get at PPT004 warning in the hardware diagnostics program on startup. (battery not functioning correctly).

    I feel however, based on the 22 July system update to Mojave 10.14.5 to 10.14.6, may be the culprit.

    In the meanwhile, i’ve gone back to the original SSD, will try to properly re-calibrate the battery, as during initial phase, the magsafe disconnected momentarily.

    Thankfully, I have a backup machine to work on, albeit a windows-based one. :-( Anywho, will keep y’all posted.

    joshuafiddler -

    I just installed the same update last night and also have a Crucial P1 1TB PCI. I will keep you informed. You installed the corrected update not the original right? The original was cause kernel panics across the board. I believe the corrected update came out on July 29th

    Dan -

    Yeah, I’m on the oops-we-casused-kernel-panics-for-everyone-here-try-this macOS update. lol.

    So a strange turn of events…

    In my desperation, after I removed the P1 and put the original back in to see if it was battery or the disk, I made a bootable USB installation of same kernel-panic free updated macOS Mojave 10.14.6, put the P1 back in, ran some diagnostics from USB installation, all clean, and then proceeded to work, KERNEL-PANIC-FREE riiiiight up until yesterday at 10:38:27 (thanks while re-syncing my OneDrive account… part of me wonders if I’ve got some corrupt data in there that is causing havoc with the NVMe driver.

    For the time being, I’ve disabled sleep (always happens after it goes to sleep and I wake it up),

    Thanks for the back-n-forth. Will also keep you posted.

    joshuafiddler - Reply


    I had no luck with clearing the battery error with the iFixit Battery after re-calibrating.

    Things worked well for a brief period: 4 days of no KPs. Cannot identify any corrupt data.

    KPs started up again. In desperation, I opened up the case, and reseated the P1. Again noted that the drive seemed almost loose in the key-slot. Tightened the lock-down screw to a bit more than hand tight.

    That was 24 hours ago, and no KPs after suffering 5 or 6 the day before while trying to get some fricking C-code finished. Thanks to the reprieve, got it done. Now trying to make sure everything is okay.

    joshuafiddler -

    Awesome to hear, I am running 10.14.6 and not having any issues.

    Dan -

    I wonder if this still applies for the 2019 model.

    Max Fiedler - Reply

    You’d have to see if the SSD is removable, the form-factor etc. perhaps the tear-down is a good place to check.

    joshuafiddler -

    2018 and forward the memory is not removable i’m afraid

    Dan -

    Is the 1TB Crucial P1 SSD NVMe convertible to the Macbook Air early 2015?

    On Apples website it only says that it’s convertible with 512 gb

    Pernille Madsen - Reply

    Yes it should work fine

    Dan -

    Works well with Kingston A2000 250GB… 1GB write / 1.5GB rear /sec

    TB_rep - Reply

    thanks for the feedback!

    Dan -

    From what i read before, for a MacBook Air early 2015, we have confirmed that the following work fine :

    a. One Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD

    b. One M.2 NGFF M-Key SSD Convert Card to Nvme PCI-E.

    But which adapter ? There are several brands ranging from €10-€40 … Any thoughts ?

    Can anyone confirm the overall length of the original M2 ssd on the above MacBook air ? The Crucial M2 states total length of 80mm. Has anyone the length of the adapter that fits ?

    Also will the above work on a MacBook Air early 2015 with latest High Sierra 10.13.6 ? I am not ready to migrate to the new file system on Mojave.

    Dimitris Nikolopoulos - Reply

    High sierra should not be an issue as others has confirmed this working, the adapter is “Sintech NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter Card for Upgrade

    Dan -

    Can anyone help out ? I installed the Crucial P1 ssd with the adapter, i booted with the option/alt key and the ssd is not present, only the bootable usb ! On a MacBook Air early 2015

    Dimitris Nikolopoulos - Reply

    I have the same problem of Dimitris. Please someone could help us?

    Thank you very much

    Dani -

    I can confirm using the SinTech long adapter with a Western Digital SN720 256 GB (aka WD Black) NVME SSD works great with sleep and hibernation being flawless. On my early 2017 Macbook Air. Im getting 1700MB/s Read, and 1400MB/s write speeds. My original 128GB Apple SSD was getting about 800 MB/s read and write. Make sure to use the screw that came with the adapter. I don’t see any extra battery drain either. I was running OSX Catalina 10.15.3 and used a bootable USB and Time Machine backup. Formatted my WD SN720 with APFS. My 2017 Air came back right where I left off.

    Abe m - Reply

    Thanks for the update!

    Dan -

    I try it with:

    - Macbook Air Early 2015 13’’.

    - Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD

    - QNINE M.2 Adaptador convertidor NVME SSD para MacBook Air Pro Retina Mediados de 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017, Kit de actualización NVME/AHCI SSD para A1465 A1466 A1398 A1502

    - Catalina 10.15.3

    It doesn’t work. The Macbook Air doesn’t see the SSD.

    Tomás Lucas - Reply

    Did the bootable disk see the SSD?

    Dan -

    In the MacBook Air 2017 and the Catalina 10.15.5 can you upgrade the ssd using the Samsung evo 960? And if you use the Samsung evo 970 will it work? Always with the adapter, thank you for your help

    bbreia - Reply

    Sorry for the late reply, I cant see why it would not work, did you give it a shot?

    Dan -

    works with WD_black 500 + Sintech adapter on MacBook Air 13” early 2014 running MacOS Big Sur

    Muwa - Reply

    Awesome to hear|!

    Dan -

    Will this all work with earlier versions of Mac OS? I prefer to stay at Sierra level and no higher.

    Mark T Galyean - Reply

    This worked for me:

    - Macbook Air Mid 2017 “MacBookAir7,2“

    - macOS Big Sur

    - Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB NVMe M.2 . (I checked that it had latest firmware 2021 Oct. For how to do that, go youtube “970 evo plus firmware update“)

    - Adapter: “Rivo NGFF M.2 Adapter“ (even though product description did not mention MacBook Air 2017) Also adapter physically fit fine. Did not cause MacBook Air back cover to bulge

    shin - Reply

    Thanks for sharing!!

    Dan -

    Macbook air early 2015 with ssd crucial P1 nvme

    Hi to all,

    I bought a crucial P1 ssd nvme with this adapter: ++ and I make a bootable disk with mojave in usb.

    When I restart the mac, and when I go to Utility disk, my new disk there isn’t.

    I also putted the P1 in an external case and in this case the new ssd therre is so I formatted in apfs from here. But when I put it inside there isn’t.

    Could someone help me please?

    I’m becoming crazy!!!!!

    Probably it depend from operating system?

    Dani - Reply

    Make sure you click show all drives

    Dan -

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Reply

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Reply

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Reply

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Reply

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Reply

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Reply

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Reply

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Reply

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Reply

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Reply

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Reply

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Reply

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Reply

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Reply

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Reply

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Reply

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Reply

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)


    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Reply

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Reply

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Reply

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Reply

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Reply

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Reply

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Reply

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Reply

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Reply

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Reply

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD


    instead press


    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert - Reply

  1. MacBook Air 13" Early 2015 SSD Upgrade to NVMe: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Reply

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Reply

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?


    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - Reply

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Reply

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Reply

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus - Reply

  2. MacBook Air 13" Early 2015 SSD Upgrade to NVMe, Battery Connector: step 4, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 13" Early 2015 SSD Upgrade to NVMe, Battery Connector: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it or you risk damage to the connector socket.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Reply

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Reply

    I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

    Kevin Epstein -

    When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

    Connor Dougherty - Reply

    After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.

    The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)

    It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.

    AnnoniMoose - Reply

    There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.

    rmccord23 -

    What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?

    Carla Tisdale - Reply

    Where can i buy the battery connector?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - Reply

    Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - Reply

    Connector socket came off, can I just glue it into place?

    Lisa Mac - Reply

  3. MacBook Air 13" Early 2015 SSD Upgrade to NVMe, Solid-State Drive: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    I'm using a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the SSD retaining screw but it's simply not working, the screwdriver seems slightly too big and I even tried plyers to grab the ends of the screw and turn it but that didn't budge. Are the screws super tight or something? I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong

    smokey9112filmz2 - Reply

    I would also like to know that, i have the same problem tried using a standard T5 Torx and the Pentalobe P5 screwdriver, but the both dont work/fit

    facebookvincent -

    I opened mine with a T-6.

    airshack - Reply

    I ended up using the T5 with a rubber band in between. I wish I would have done this earlier. I stripped a little bit of the screw. You live you learn.

    Senh Mo Chuang - Reply

    After reassembly, press and hold cmd-opt-R immediately after hitting power button

    bob.lombardi - Reply

  4. MacBook Air 13" Early 2015 SSD Upgrade to NVMe: step 6, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 13" Early 2015 SSD Upgrade to NVMe: step 6, image 2 of 2
    • Gently lift the end of the SSD about half an inch and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Don't lift the SSD more than half an inch—doing so may damage the SSD or its socket on the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    Am I able to upgrade my Macbook Air early 2015 from 128Mb SSD to the SSD Samsung 960 (EVO or Pro) 1TB or 2TB?

    If so, do a need special adapters?

    Ruben Dominguez - Reply

    Is there an adaptor cable or external housing that allows me to transfer the information on my SSD to my other laptop that has a SATA drive?

    Redwood Man - Reply

    There are several available at Other World Computing.

    NerdsLimited -

    OWC 480 GB ssd says, early 2015 MacBook Pro needs thermal pad. what kin of pad is needed before SSD can be replaced.

    rasi_tip - Reply

    Can you recommend an adapter to use a regular m.2 ssd?

    zepa - Reply

    I really don’t recommend using M.2 SSD’s!

    As someone who services Mac’s I tend to see the failures and I’l warn you I see a lot of these M.2 drives with adapter with problems. As one of the first diagnostic processes I pop in my custom Apple Samsung SSD to see if the system works with it. If it does I recommend the power to replace the SSD.

    Dan -

    If I’m ordering a 1TB ssd what exactly should I be asking for ?

    i looked up a replacement for my 2015 Air and the ssd they sent had the slot in the wrong place. Will I need an adapter?

    why did they suggest it would be compatible (it’s an m2)?

    Colin Gray - Reply

    Seems cheap isn’t good

    Colin Gray - Reply

    Is the same procedure suitable for a macbook 13” early 2014?


    robert van spronsen - Reply

    Hey robert, the procedure is exactly the same for the 2014 MBA! You can check out our MacBook Air 2014 SSD replacement guide to check for yourself.

    Taylor Dixon -

    Shouldn’t you disconnect the battery before removing the old SSD? Guide lacks instructions for this so not sure if necessary/ recommended. I recall HDD upgrade guide for my old MBP 2010 included disconnecting the battery, surely same for MBA?

    David Shanahan - Reply

    Yes, always disconnect the battery first before removing other components.

    (Edit: I only skimmed, looking for chat about adapters and such. It’s there.. Step 3. At least, it is now. Maybe it was added after your comment) :)

    Ashlar -

    I’ve got Macbook Air 2012, which has been upgraded with Samsung 860 Evo M.2, I am looking to buy a MacBook Air 2017 and swap its’ original SSD to one which currently sits in my Air 2012. Is MacBook Air 2017 compatible with Samsung 860 Evo M.2?

    Rob Fox - Reply

    My mid-2013 Air has crashed to the point of being unrecoverable - I get the folder with a question mark upon startup and there is no disk to recover from when I finally get to disk utility. After a couple phone calls with Apple, they determined they couldn’t do anything. I’m wondering if I can remove my SSD from the laptop, if I can use an adapter cable to make the files accessible via a cable (preferably to USB C) on my new MacBook Air mid-2020. I appreciate the help, thank you.

    Jack Tynan - Reply

    is there any software updates that need to be done to configure this to work properly or is it a plug and play type of thing?

    Martita Sharlow - Reply

    as long as your on a modern OS version Catalina or higher its plug and play

    Dan -

    I swapped out a larger (non-OEM) SSD in my MacBook Air. Everything works fine except now when I wake my computer from sleep, I’m just given a black screen and the logon screen doesn’t load. I usually have to force shutdown and restart whenever waking from sleep, kind of annoying. Any hints as to what may be the issue?

    Cameron Miller - Reply

    Swapping the SSD is pretty straight forward if you have the needed tools. Took me less than 15 min. including cleaning the the interior with compressed air. Thanks for the tutorial.

    St. Maier - Reply

  5. MacBook Air 13" Early 2015 SSD Upgrade to NVMe, SSD - Alternate option using M.2 NVMe SSD: step 7, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 13" Early 2015 SSD Upgrade to NVMe, SSD - Alternate option using M.2 NVMe SSD: step 7, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully insert the new SSD into the adapter, using the length of old drive as a reference for when the SSD is fully in the adapter. The lengths should be the same.

    • Insert the SSD and the adapter into the Socket, pushing inward in a straight fashion.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    • NVMe Drives can cause kernel panics due to sleep /hibernation issues. This can be turned off with the following command.

    • From a Terminal, use the following command to disable hibernation: ----"sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 0" ---- If you later want to enable hibernation, use: "sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 3"

    is sabrent rocket Ssd compatible with macbook air and adapter?

    vandit m - Reply


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

12 other people completed this guide.


Member since: 02/18/2019

3,279 Reputation

6 Guides authored


Please advise ! I installed the Crucial P1 ssd with the adapter, i booted with the option/alt key and the ssd is not present, only the bootable usb ! On a MacBook Air early 2015

Dimitris Nikolopoulos - Reply

The disk will not be seen by the Disk Utility. But if you boot from a USB disk (option_r during boot) and start the Disk Utility program you’ll be able to see the new unformatted disk. Erase the drive. Then you can restore from a Time Machine backup or restart without the USB….This worked for me.

Olivier Fluri -

I also have the same problem, do i need latest operating system to detect these new drives?

Derrick Boateng -

Why does the guide recommend 5 hours?

After reading, I think this should take 30-45 minutes or possibly a bit less. Maybe I overlooked a step, or something in particular takes extra long? I’m interested to hear how this went for others who have tried.

excellent write up tho, I didn’t know there were NVME adapters available for these, awesome!

Daniel Cassel - Reply

The hardware only takes about a half hour, the installing the OS is what takes the time! To speed it up setup an external OS installer drive the faster the drive & interface the faster the install! A thunderbolt RAID’ed SSD is about as fast as you can get it takes just about an hour with it.

Dan -

Can I take a hard stock SSD that came in this (Early 2015 Mac) and install it into a Mid 2012 MacBook Air? Are they the same?

Robert - Reply

Just replaced stock SSD on macbook air early 2014 with WD_black 500 GB w/ Sintech NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter Card. Upgraded from Catalina to Big Sur. Followed your instructions. Works. Takes about 20 minutes to replace hardware and less than an hour to install OS from prepared flash drive. Thank you for the instructions!

Muwa - Reply

Your welcome! We could breath some new life into your MAC

Dan -

This guide is a bit confusing. So will I need to purchase an adapter for my new SSD or not?

Connor Dougherty - Reply

Yes you do need to buy the adaptor

Montreal Habs -

Will the new version of the Crucial P2 500GB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD Up to 2400MB/s - CT500P2SSD8 work with this storage project for a Macbook air 2015??

Thank you in advance!

Montreal Habs - Reply

Should be no issues, its more of a build quality difference than anything else. In the Crucial P1, the manufacturer uses the less expensive 4-bit QLC NAND, but in the Crucial P2 it uses the more durable 3-bit TLC memory cells

Dan -

Do I have to create a bootable flash drive or will there be an option to reinstall once I boot the device with the new SSD? Early 2015 MBA currently on Big Sur 11.4

Joe - Reply

you will need to make a bootable drive

Dan -

Would it work with the Early 2015, 11 inches model?

Raphael Alves - Reply

Yes it should, as long as the drive is removable it should work, the 13” model works no reason why the 11’ wont

Dan -

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 15

Past 7 Days: 131

Past 30 Days: 643

All Time: 29,341