Introduction

Use this guide to replace a faulty logic board in your MacBook Air 13" Early 2015.

Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste before reinstalling your heat sink on your new logic board.

    • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

      • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

      • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

    Rulle Boer - Reply

    My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

    BrianM -

    The pentalobe screw size is 1.2 mm for Macbook Air.

    Jose Gustavo Abreu Murta -

    The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

    I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

    budpegasus - Reply

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Reply

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Reply

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Reply

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Reply

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Reply

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Reply

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Reply

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Reply

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Reply

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Reply

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Reply

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Reply

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Reply

    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

    Add Comment

    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

    Add Comment

    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

    Add Comment

    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Hi, I messed up the socket, is there a replacement for the socket that holds the fans wire.

    leonzar - Reply

    macbook air 13" early 2015

    leonzar - Reply

    The end of that cord slips into the channel whose lid you just flipped up. Don’t forget to re-insert that when reseating the fan and before flipping that retaining flap closed, it’s easy to miss and should have been part of these instructions, ifixit!

    John McClung - Reply

    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

      • One 5.2 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 3.3 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    Add Comment

    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    Add Comment

    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Add Comment

    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Add Comment

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    • Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    Add Comment

    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

    Add Comment

    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    The I/O board does not need to be removed to remove the display.

    Macman - Reply

    Nor for the logic board removal

    maccentric - Reply

    The back end of the microphone riibbon cable may be stuck down with a bit of glue under the flap. You can gently loosen it with a flat spudger.

    Richard Garella - Reply

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it. Pull the connector away from the socket.

    How can one replace the battery connector? I'm the idiot that pulled up instead of away.

    Victor Robles - Reply

    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

      • Three 6.9 mm T5 Torx screws

      • Two 3.0 mm T5 Torx screws

    what is that little hole or clip in the middle o battery?

    Edy Surpat - Reply

    There’s both a hole for a screw and a clip to hold the bottom case

    maccentric -

    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100%. Let it continue charging for two more hours, then drain it again until your MacBook Air shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.

    Personally I would like a short description on why we have to calibrate a brand new battery for what reason?

    Albert - Reply

    @albertnumber1 You can find a detailed explanation of calibration here. The short(ish) answer is that the battery charge % reading on your device is really just a guess, one that is generated by a mathematical model of what’s going on inside the chemical battery. That model needs data points (like full charge and discharge flags) in order to work correctly. Without calibration, nothing bad will happen, but you may get some unreliable battery % readings.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.

    Add Comment

    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me

    Omar Lopez - Reply

    You’re actually pushing the connector from side to side toward the front of the case (or towards the track pad). It’s not a vertical motion at all.

    Jay Quilty - Reply

    I’d also mention to be careful taking these off and putting them back on. I also accidentally pulled a terminal off it’a cable.

    Jean-Pierre Bazinet - Reply

    • Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

    • Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    You’ve missed a whole section here on removing the fan. It’s still present in Step 19 pics, but gone by Step 23. It’s not that it’s difficult to work out how to do it. But, when reassembling and following the steps in reverse, it’s handy to know when to use which screws!

    Stuzzington Botulism - Reply

    Ah! –my bad. The steps for removing Fan etc. are there –up round Step 13. It’s just your photos that are slightly out of sync, as it’s back in place again by Step 19. So, while working in reverse, it looks like it’s not been covered.

    Stuzzington Botulism - Reply

    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

    Add Comment

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Do you know where i can buy the retaining clip ?

    Jo (MemePasGame) - Reply

    Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.

    maccentric -

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended to pry up from beneath the cables.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

      • On some models these may be 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

    When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.

    First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.

    Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.

    Rany - Reply

    Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.

    Fox MacLeod - Reply

    I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.

    Corvallis Computer - Reply

    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    This is the same screws as step 17.

    Joseph Lee - Reply

    In both the online and the PDF version, Steps 17-18 and Steps 29-30 are identical. At which stage should you actually remove the display screws?

    adlerpe - Reply

    Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)

    Sam Lionheart - Reply

    T8 screwdriver/head not listed as a tool. Please add to the tool list. Stuck at Step 27 and need to go buy one.

    stephanee77 - Reply

    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    This step is not needed

    mayer - Reply

    It’s not clear what you mean by “This step is not needed.” If you want to remove the logic board from the upper case in order to put it onto your replacement upper case, you will have to remove this screw.

    Richard Garella - Reply

    • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive.

    • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

    You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.

    Alexander Zub - Reply

    I found the same. If you already have speakers in your new upper case, you can leave them. When you put the logic board back in, it will be a tight fit. I had to start with the corner near the right hinge (the Thunderbolt port corner) and work it in to place.

    Richard Garella - Reply

    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • During reassembly, make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the second picture.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board excessively.

    • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

    Add Comment

    • When reassembling your device, be sure the heat sink's rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins.

    • The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board.

    • Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the last picture.

    This step is REALLY helpful. I skimmed over it when disassembling and then struggled a bit trying to get the rubber gasket aligned just right.

    The middle photo shows what I mean, it's exactly what I needed.

    Daniel Cassel - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

31 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

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7 Comments

Wow, you saved me $1000 bucks! I spilled brandy on my MacBook Air and followed your instructions to completely strip it down. I followed instructions for cleaning circuit boards after a spill from another page on this site. My MacBook works perfectly now!

Your instructions were great. You might note that there is some variation in the placement of different components, ribbon connectors, etc., but I figured it out by zooming in on your pictures and finding a picture of each exact component. They look the same, even though they are in different spots. I found out you can dunk the circuit boards in 91% rubbing alcohol, clean the parts with a soft toothbrush, and let it all dry. I didn’t bother with removing and replacing the heat sink and thermal paste. After soaking in the alcohol, I saw that the heat sinks were still firmly attached thermal paste looked fine, so I left it alone. I liked your specific descriptions about which way to pull or lift the ribbon connectors, and using the right tools! Thanks!

Sharon - Reply

I am afraid if you soaked the whole unit in alcohol, the heat sink paste is probably ruined? If the unit seems to get hot or shut off spontaneously, I would consider taking it apart AGAIN, and cleaning and relating the heat sink with fresh new thermal paste. You can clean the old paste off with Alcohol, do you see why that worries me ;~)

max damage -

Do you know where can i buy pre owned motherboard like this that can be trusted? Mine is missused and cant turn on.

triesniaf - Reply

Can anyone please let me know where to buy Motherboard, my macbook air is not getting started. they said there is a moisture on the logic board.

Sriram Vellanki - Reply

Hi Sriram, we have links to the motherboards (Apple calls them Logic Boards) at the top of this guide.

Sam Lionheart -

How do you determine which logic board to buy? There are two options. I’d rather not have to disassemble to find out then have to wait for delivery to put back together. Is there somewhere on a Mac site I can plug in the serial number to find out?

Colin - Reply

If your computer is working you can look in the “About This Mac” menu to learn which processor you have, that will determine which logic board you need. Otherwise check out our “Identify your Mac” tool.

Sam Lionheart -

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