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Introduction

Use this guide to replace a faulty or broken display on your MacBook Air 13" Early 2015.

Video Overview

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Reply

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Reply

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Reply

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Reply

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Reply

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Reply

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Reply

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Reply

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Reply

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Reply

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Reply

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Reply

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Reply

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Reply

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Reply

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Reply

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Reply

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Reply

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Reply

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Reply

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Reply

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Reply

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Reply

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Reply

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Reply

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Reply

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Reply

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Reply

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Reply

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - Reply

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Reply

  2. To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.
    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it or you risk damage to the connector socket.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Reply

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Reply

  3. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - Reply

  4. Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

    • During reassembly, make sure this cable is in the correct orientation. It will fit if reversed, but the laptop will not boot.

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - Reply

    Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.

    Halston Halston - Reply

    I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…

    Edward Mills - Reply

  5. The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Hi, I messed up the socket, is there a replacement for the socket that holds the fans wire.

    leonzar - Reply

    macbook air 13" early 2015

    leonzar - Reply

    The end of that cord slips into the channel whose lid you just flipped up. Don’t forget to re-insert that when reseating the fan and before flipping that retaining flap closed, it’s easy to miss and should have been part of these instructions, ifixit!

    John McClung - Reply

    Thank you so much! Without your comment, I wouldn’t of realized that the ribbon cable is supposed to go into the socket (I know, dumb mistake now that I think about it). You also made me go back and correctly insert the microphone cable. Cheers!

    Nolan Shaffer - Reply

    After my repair, my fan is super loud now! Any tips?

    heathergminchen - Reply

  7. Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

  8. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.3 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    I was unable to remove the 4.4 mm screw with the T5. I needed to use the T4 to get a grip so I didn’t strip the head.

    grahammartin - Reply

    The 3.3mm Torx is actually a 4.4mm

    georgeantoniades - Reply

  9. Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case. Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

  10. Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

    The connector has a latch (at least mine does) that prevents it from simply sliding out. To release it, I inserted a 5/64 flathead screwdriver to lift the edge of the socket. Then the jack and cable easily slides out.

    Rick Silton - Reply

  11. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    when i did this the whole socket came off the board and i had to get a replacement i/o board. Be warned, do this very carefully and avoid my mistake

    ForceGhostJeremy - Reply

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    There was black tape covering this socket. It was attached to the ribbon tape. I needed to pull up the tape covering the socket to expose the retaining clip.

    Brant Smith - Reply

    Thanks Brant!

    mckenziemardelli - Reply

    The note about the black tape should be in RED in the main text above. I broke off the connector thinking the tape was part of the cable assembly. Always read the comments. Always. : )

    Jon Lucenius - Reply

  13. Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

  14. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.
    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

  15. Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    The I/O board does not need to be removed to remove the display.

    Macman - Reply

    Nor for the logic board removal

    maccentric - Reply

    The back end of the microphone riibbon cable may be stuck down with a bit of glue under the flap. You can gently loosen it with a flat spudger.

    Richard Garella - Reply

    how do I reattach the riibbon cable now that the adhesive has been removed?

    Nolan Shaffer -

  16. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry each of the antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry each of the antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry each of the antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  17. Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger. Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.
    • Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

    • Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    When connecting this cable make sure the gold pins on the cable are facing upwards, away from the logic board.

    George - Reply

  18. Pull the plastic tab on the display data cable connector to unlock it. Pull the plastic tab on the display data cable connector to unlock it.
    • Pull the plastic tab on the display data cable connector to unlock it.

  19. Pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket. Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.
    • Pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

    When connecting this cable make sure the gold pins on the cable are facing upwards, away from the logic board.

    George - Reply

  20. Remove the inner four (two on each side) 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right and left display hinges to the upper case. Leaving the outer screws in place for now will aid in disassembly.
    • Remove the inner four (two on each side) 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right and left display hinges to the upper case.

    • Leaving the outer screws in place for now will aid in disassembly.

    What about the screws on the right hinge?

    Ted Horodynsky - Reply

  21. Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.

    This step neglects to mention that if you don’t de-route it even further than shown in the photo AND undo the the tiny screw below the left hinge, then this wire will break later on

    mckenziemardelli - Reply

    I agree with mckenziemardelli and ALOS that the combined antenna cables are “clamped” and retained by two of the right hinge screws.

    Ted Horodynsky - Reply

  22. Open the display so that it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.
    • Open the display so that it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

  23. While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw from the left display bracket.
    • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw from the left display bracket.

  24. Turn the computer onto its opposite edge so the right display screw is now easily accessible.
    • Turn the computer onto its opposite edge so the right display screw is now easily accessible.

    • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

    • Remove the last 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  25. Open the Air slightly to allow room for the hinges to slide out of their notches. Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then push it back from the hinges. Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.
    • Open the Air slightly to allow room for the hinges to slide out of their notches.

    • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then push it back from the hinges.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

  26. During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to tuck the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna back into its channel. During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to tuck the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna back into its channel.
    • During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to tuck the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna back into its channel.

    This is the part that will have you cursing whomever designed this.

    maccentric - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

96 other people completed this guide.

iRobot

Member since: 09/24/2009

1 Reputation

648 Guides authored

25 Comments

Followed this guide to replace a broken display assembly on my Macbook Air. Complete everything in 40 minutes with little problem. My only problem was ripping the tab off the microphone ribbon cable which made this part a little bit more difficult, but didn't end up being a huge deal.

Nathan McAuley - Reply

Would you be able to replace the screen with a 13" macbook pro retina screen on the newest 2015 13" Macbook Air?

Nate - Reply

Not even close.

maccentric -

Excellent - just replaced a display. It's easier to reattach the ribbon cables for the mic and fan before putting I/O board and fan back in - that's the only suggestion I have.

cskellum4 - Reply

perfect guide! thanks a mil.

tech4eleven - Reply

Great Guide! Thank you! Took a little under an hour to complete!

Vladimir Estrin - Reply

Excellent step by step. Got to do it twice since the display I purchased was defective. Had a huge black vertical line after installation so I got the added pleasure of pulling the new defective display off and shipping it back to Amazon. Fingers crossed the next one works.

Brent Fitzpatrick - Reply

An excellent guide. I noticed it was easier to confuse the orientation of the data cable for the main logic board. Something to keep in mind.

Dustin Minnich - Reply

Excellent guide. Suggest you indicate the size of screwdriver your using at each step so as to avoid folks having to look at the notes. Also, you might consider a small dab of blue Loctite on the screws as removing them seems to wear off the original. Finally routing of all of the cables could be mentioned. I was able to figure this out but the layering of the cables is important when reassembling. Finally, I could not find the ‘reassembly’ guide. I realize that reversing the disassembly is the way to go but there are certain items that would have been nice to know like attaching cables before reinserting the logic board makes it easier, that sort of thing. Great job!

TekGeek - Reply

Those ribbons were a freakin pain.

Marky Mark - Reply

I did a lot of bare screen replacement before for Macbook Air 11-inch and 13-inch for 2010 - 2012 models, meaning i only replaced the internal screen and re-used the housing and the cables which all work out quite okay. Question is for the newer models 2013 and above, do these use the same type of internal screen with same LCD connector as with the 2010-2012 models? I know that the iSight connector is different and wider but the wifi connectors and LCD connectors seems the same.

jobnathan - Reply

Went through this one to replace the clutch cover on my MBA. Went through it all with no problems. Would be nice if the guide showed removal of the clutch cover.

neilweinstock - Reply

I did everything and the new display works fine bu the back cover doesnt go in properly? The top right corner near the fan seems to pop out a bit assuming because of the rubber. Is this normal?

steez135 - Reply

You probably need to tuck the airport cables into the little channel better (especially around the fan and tip of the heat sink). Step 27.

maccentric -

Does this work for a 2017 model as well?

Ckivol - Reply

Excellent guide & video. I was able to repurpose two laptops that were out of commission by swapping displays.

dmetcalfe - Reply

Hello, Is it possible to replace the screen of a 13P Macbook Air reference A1466 EMC2559 from mid-2012 with the screen of a 13P Macbook Air reference A1466 EMC2632 from mid-2013 ?

Many thanks!

Jean - Reply

how much was the new screen?

max

Rick Just - Reply

Could someone please explain why the fan and the I/O and all of the other cables need to be disconnected? They don’t seem to have any connection to the display at all. Why not just disconnect the display cable, the screws the for the hinges and antenna cables in step 22? Everything else just seems extra. Am missing something?

Ken Hughes - Reply

Does this work for the a1534?

izac_01 - Reply

Thank you for this guide! Using it, the comments, and the video, I successfully replaced the screen on my early 2015 MacBook Air (that I dropped almost a year ago) and have been using an external display for ever since. I know nothing about computers, but made sure to read the instructions and comments carefully and took notes and photos along the way to make sure I put it back together correctly. Took me about an hour to take it apart and 20 minutes to reassemble (probably slower than average). I used a replacement screen I bought on eBay and a toolkit from Amazon that had the appropriate screwdrivers and a spudger (cost less than a hundred bones for everything - much cheaper than a new laptop!).

Amelia Crabtree - Reply

Per step 17. How do you end up reconnecting the antenna connectors. Do they simply snap back into place? I cannot tell from the video

Matt G - Reply

All went perfectly, I wouldn’t have done it without your video so thanks a lot! It’s not so hard but you need a guide the first time… Bravo!

Chris - Reply

Is there a up or down on lcd cable?

Bob kardell - Reply

Is it possible to swap the display assembly of a 2015 model A1466 EMC 2925 onto the keyboard assembly of a 2013 model A1466 EMC 2632? I have two airs, one with a broken display and one with a broken keyboard, but they are from 2015 and 2013 respectively and I want to know if the hardware is compatible to swap the two. Thanks for the help!

Aidan Praytor - Reply

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