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MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 Logic Board Replacement

Replace the Logic Board in your MacBook Air 13" Early 2014.

Use this guide to replace the logic board.

Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste before reinstalling your heat sink on the new board.

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9 Edit Step 1 — Lower Case  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the following ten screws:

9 Edit Step 1 — Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Edit Step 3 — Battery Connector  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

Edit Step 3 — Battery Connector  ¶ 

  • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

Edit Step 4 — I/O Board Cable  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 4 — I/O Board Cable  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/2: While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

  • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

  • Remove the I/O board cable.

1 Edit Step 7 — Fan  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.

1 Edit Step 7 — Fan  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/1: One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

2 Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

2 Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

  • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

Edit Step 11 — I/O Board  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

Edit Step 11 — I/O Board  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Pry up from beneath the wires.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

1 Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.

1 Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

1 Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

1 Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

2 Edit Step 16  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

2 Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

  • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

Edit Step 17 — Battery  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

Edit Step 17 — Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

Edit Step 19 — Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 19 — Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do '''not''' lift straight up from its socket.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

  • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

  • Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

  • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

  • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

Image 1/1: It is recommended to pry up from beneath the cables.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is recommended to pry up from beneath the cables.

3 Edit Step 26  ¶ 

Image 1/1: On some models these may be 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

3 Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • On some models these may be 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive.

  • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

Image 1/2: During reassembly, make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the second picture.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

  • During reassembly, make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the second picture.

Edit Step 31 — Logic Board  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 31 — Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

  • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board excessively.

  • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

  • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • When reassembling your device, be sure the heat sink's rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins.

  • The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board.

  • Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the last picture.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Now that you've finished, share your repair story with others.

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19 Comments

Add a comment

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Reply

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentalobe_...

Arlen Abraham -

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Reply

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Reply

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Reply

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Reply

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Reply

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Reply

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Reply

I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

michaelkkruger - Reply

It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

Rany - Reply

I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

michaelkkruger - Reply

When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

michaelkkruger - Reply

When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

michaelkkruger - Reply

I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

Emilio - Reply

THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

samdaman91 -

When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.

First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.

Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.

Rany - Reply

Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.

Fox MacLeod - Reply

I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.

Corvallis Computer - Reply