Introduction

Use this guide to replace a damaged logic board.

  • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

When you say:

Remove the following ten screws:

Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

Nerdily yours,

Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

larryleveen - Reply

The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

Michael Welham -

I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

Allen - Reply

The magnetic mat is

GERARD SZAREK -

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

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  • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally contact its socket.

My macbook air's configuration (Mid-2011 core i5) has a different battery connector. It slides into a receptacle on the logic board. If your battery connector does not look like the one pictured, use the pointy end of a spudger to depress the small indentation in the middle of the battery connector cable terminal, and pull aft to release the clasp mechanism.

Ethan Cross - Reply

  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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  • Use a spudger to help lift the free end of the SSD just enough to grab it with your other hand.

  • Do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

  • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

When you've completed all these steps to replace your SSD, don't despair if the MacBook Air shows a flashing folder with a question mark when you first power up the MacBook Air.

- Power off the machine, then keep the option key (= Alt key) pressed down, power on the machine again, and keep the option key pressed down until a prompt appears.

- If you've set a firmware password, then type it in at the prompt

- You should now be prompted for a hard drive to boot from. Select "EFI Boot"

- The MacBook Air should now boot to a window showing "OS X Utilities"

- Click on the  at the top left, then select "Startup Disk..."

- Select your SDD/Hard drive, and restart.

Michael Welham - Reply

When replacing the SSD, be careful about the connector orientation. Replacement boards look almost the same if they are upside-down. Note that the connector is not reversible - there is a notch that will only line up if the board is right-side up. If it doesn't seem to line up, flip the board over.

shamino - Reply

can i ask some links for some ssd’s that are compatible with that macbook model ?

giannismistil - Reply

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable up from its socket on the I/O board.

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  • Peel the I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the I/O board connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

  • Be sure to lift straight up on the connector as you disconnect it from its socket. The socket is very deep on the logic board and prying it from side to side may damage the logic board

  • Remove the I/O board cable.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

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  • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

The replacement fan's ribbon cable is a few mm longer than the original. I t will loop upwards a bit after mounting. The rubber lip on top of the old fan needs to be transferred to the new fan.

Martin Heinrich - Reply

  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

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  • Do not touch or squeeze the six lithium polymer cells when handling the battery.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to free the adhesive loop securing the I/O board power cable to the upper case.

  • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the front edge of the Air.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the right speaker cable from the slot cut into the logic board.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Pry up from beneath the cables.

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  • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

  • Remove the small rubber gasket from the corner of the upper case near the display data cable.

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  • While holding the lock away from the socket, gently pull the display data cable out of its socket.

  • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

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  • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

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  • Remove the three 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

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  • Gently lift the logic board assembly out of the upper case, minding the fragile heat sink and any cables that may get caught.

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  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

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  • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

  • To avoid damaging its socket on the logic board, do not excessively lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.

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  • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

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  • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

  • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

  • Logic board remains.

  • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

awesome, you've virtually saved my macbook air from costly repairing fees. Long live the spirit of DIY ...

Avatar Ng - Reply

Be careful if you are running High Sierra and have converted your SSD to the new file system. I replaced my logic board after updating to High Sierra and converting my SSD. The new board would not recognize the drive. I restored the system from a Sierra backup image and all is fine. My assumption is that the High SIerra update includes firmware changes to support the new file system.

dave - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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One Comment

Just for your information, this guide is not for the A1465 because the motherboard they are showing is from an A1370. The touchpad and touchpad flex cable are different in both models.

lap tech - Reply

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