Introduction
Prerequisite only.
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Remove the following three screws:
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One 5.0 mm T8 Torx or 2.0 mm Hex screw (either will work)
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One 16.2 mm T6 Torx screw
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One 26 mm T6 Torx standoff
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Carefully pull the wires for both hard drive thermal sensors upward to lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.
The thermal sensor is VERY delicate, hold the connector down with a spudger and lift the cable with some tweezers. Long list of people online who have accidentally removed the connector from the logic board because the solder is insufficient.
I second the comment about using something, say a small screwdriver, to carefully put some pressure on the connector whilst then prying the cable up.
Excellent advice - thanks. I used a small set of tweezers to gently lift up enough cable to hold onto, and then to hold the sockets onto the logic board whilst I pulled! Success!
Note: the clips lift straight up, although after they are removed, it appears that tiny "prongs" are in the remaining socket. What look like tiny prongs are just horizontal wires. To replace, push the clips straight down. I used metal picks (like fine bent ice picks - available at Harbor Freight) to get under the edge of the plastic clip and lift up. I pulled gently on the wires with tweezers as I pried up the clips, but I would not count on pulling alone to get the job done.
Don’t have these, solid state drives?
I wanted to change the Superdrive on a 2010 Mac mini and when I took off the thermal connector from the hard drive, one of the two cables came off.
The hard drive has 2, it is the one on the other side of the SATA connector.
If you don't connect that cable, the fan always starts at 5000rpm. It is Apple Part Number: 076-1369
I was looking on Ebay/Ali and the cable is for €9, luckily you can insert the cable back into the connector and put a drop of thermal silicone to apply force and so far it works ok.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both the hard drive and optical drive connectors up out of their sockets on the logic board.
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To disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor, pinch its cables between your thumb and a spudger and pry the spudger upward to lift the connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Pulling the socket off the board seems to be a common problem. I am going to investigate making a tool to hold down the socket while prying up on the plug.
For the time being I am using an app that controls the fan speed by sampling other sensors, such as the CPU heat sink.
There are two problems with these connectors. First off they're made of very thin plastic so break easily (something addressed in later Mac mini's). Second the socket melts to the connector making it impossible to lift it.
If you do break it the metal tabs of the socket should we easily resoldered. Some practice beforehand, a fine tip solder iron, some leaded solder and your away.
En mi caso perdi el sensor de la unidad optica y ahora el ventilador se mantiene acelerado y no se si para que vuelva a su velocidad normal habré de conseguir el sensor optico. (cuando hice las pruebas con el equipo abierto, mientras probaba otra unidad optica no me daba esa falla).
Don’t see this connection, wires, only an empty connector.
When in doubt which of the two nearby sensors is the HD or the optical drive thermal sensor during assembly (!), look for instance at the guide to remove the hard drive. The two thermal sensors of the hard drive (see step 13 of this guide) are taped to the outside of the HD. The cable of the optical drive thermal sensor is below the HD (with the Mac mini upside down).
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Insert a Mac mini Logic Board Removal Tool into the two holes highlighted in red. Be sure it makes contact with the outer case below the logic board before proceeding.
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Carefully pull the tool toward the I/O board. The logic board and I/O board assembly should slightly slide out of the outer case.
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Cease prying when the I/O board is visibly separated from the outer case. Remove the Mac mini Logic Board Removal tool.
I had a couple of 3/32" drill bits in my tool chest. Worked perfectly (2.38 mm)
two fischertechnik screw drivers work perfectly as well!
Used 2 bigger paperclips. Straightened into single wire. Then in one of the previous bends I had bent it again and squeezed with pliers together so I have 2 "legs" of this improvised tool for better stiffness of wire. Went out nicely. It actually looks like a older hairpin, but more flattened...
But now I see there is a lot of paperclips on the market. Only the "smaller" ones I might use to bent it into 3 parts. So it depends of what is lying around.
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Simultaneously push the two plastic clips on the far left and right sides of the I/O board toward the middle of the I/O board and pull the I/O board away from the outer case.
I’ve popped the logic board out a little bit, but it won’t move any further. I can’t see what the clips are or how to work them.
Look at step 20 below - you see one of these connectors on the side of the IO board, just under the fingers.
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Pull the I/O board/logic board assembly out of the outer case enough to access the power connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the power cable from the logic board.
Tweezers aren't strong enough. Use some small needle-nose pliers. Hold the I/O board and it pull away.
By the time you get to this step, the hard drive can be easily removed by simply sliding it out over the logic board. Then you can simply pull off the cable with your fingers. When re-assembling, again, attach the power cable connector first, with your fingers and slide the logic board all the way in. Then slide the hard drive in over the logic board.
I suggest to list this specific type of tweezers as shown in Step 19 at the beginning as useful/recommended tool to reconnect (!) the power cable. I could pry the power cable with the blunt side of a scalpel knife. But I sorely missed something like this tweezer when trying to reconnect the cable.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
In my case, the yellow circled standoff already came out with the previously removed fan.
Sven Harmstorf - Reply
My standoff screw was really tight and my T6 stripped the screw. :( But, because it's effectively just used as a post to stabilise the fan, I ended up using some surgical clamps, grabbing the standoff where the rubber grommet sits, and gently twisted the screw loose. No major damage because that part of the screw isn't really used! Just be careful and gently twist (patience is KEY) to loosen.
alc217 - Reply
The weak design of the long standoff screw (not enough material around the star-patterned socket head) has probably caused damage of the internal head during production of the Mac Mini!
The standoff screw was in my case extremely tightened and the T6 Torx screw driver could not be used anymore (due to damage of the socket head after applying too much torque during the original assembly).
I needed to use a High Leverage Combination Plier in vertical position to loosen the screw without damage to other parts. I tried to keep the rotation axis of the screw at the centre of the flat nose of the plier. Minor scratches to the screw can not be avoided in this way.
Marc - Reply