white spots appear on television screen, first only a few and within weeks too many to view the picture comfortably. replacing the dlp chip will resolve this issue.

with only a couple of simple tools and an extra set of hands, you can replace this part and save yourself some money in the process.

if you can handle a screw driver, have a little time and some patience then you can do this.

  1. identify the television set
    • identify the television set

  2. remove the back panel at bottom of tv  it's nine screws, number 2 phillips.
    • remove the back panel at bottom of tv it's nine screws, number 2 phillips.

    • the panel off, this is the back of tv with the focus on the area we're working on. this is the formatter board housing, under here is the formatter board and on the under side of that is the dlp chip. along the top you see the green, that's the formatter board;

    • remove the fan wire

    • remove the video cable unscew with number one phillips screwdriver

    • remove the rd/bn wire to the right of the video plug

    • remove the bl/rd wire coming off the grey barrel shaped object this is a sensor detects the back panel is on, without it the tv doesn't turn on.

    • this is how it should appear when you're finished

    • now we need to remove the housing

    • from left to right above the housing unplug the rd/bk wire, wh/bk/rd wire, yw/rd wire, and the black wire

    • remove the two studs, pliers, that the video cable plug screws into

    • remove the screws - number two Phillips - that hold the housing down

    • pic of housing seperated from formatter board, you can see where the screws holding it down should be.

    • now we need to remove the heatsink from the board. there are two screws, they're spring loaded, number two phillips screw driver to remove them and the heatsink should lift off.

    • remove the screws that hold the formatter board down, the brass holes in this pic show where the screws were.

    • the formatter board should be loose from the mounting spot now with the exception of two cables that plug into the back of the board

    • close up of the front upper right corner of the board sitting in it's mounting spot.

    • there is a bk/rd/yw wire plugged into the back of the board.

    • on the right there is a 'gold' ribbon cable also plugged into the back.

    • the bk/rd/yw wire is a snap in clip as usual

    • the ribbon cable slides, silver edge revealed down, into a slot. it does not clip in or lock in any manner.

    • the ribbon cable is rigid, it is somewhat flexible, but difficult to damage. if you crimp it, that would probably be the worst thing and may break it.

    • this is a pic of the underside of the board.

    • the second pic is a close up of these two connections sticking out of the mounting bracket after i disconnected them from the board. the white thing on the ribbon cable is just a sticker. funny thing is, it's the only thing keeping it from dropping back into that hole.

    • these do not stick out far, there is not a lot of play here.

    • at this point, i disconnected the wire connector and ribbon cable from the board, and laid it down to remove the chip and insert the new one.

    • i'm somewhat used to dealing with ribbon cables and it took me about 10 minutes to get it back in the slot with someone holding the flashlight.

    • looking back on it, if that person were around prior to me having to remove the chip i would have had them hold the board as you can see my hand in the pic

    • removing the chip with the board still connected and someone holding it should be easy.

    • this is a close up of the chip on the board, the board is laying on a flat surface

    • the locking mechanism is a quarter turn left to unlock. the chip should fall out easily.

    • lay the new chip in the socket, lining up the plastic edges of the chip with the plastic guides of the socket.

    • there is only one way for the chip to lay flat in the socket. there is nothing to push or force here.

    • once it's resting flat in the socket, turn the locking mechanism a quarter turn to the right to lock the chip down.

    • the slot on the top of the locking mechanism should be parallel to the edge of the chip again.


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

4 other people completed this guide.

Bob M

Member since: 02/03/2014

291 Reputation

1 Guide authored


Steps were pretty straight forward… only had an issue/slow down with the gold ribbon cable on the back of the formatter board. Didn’t realize the white connector part you could see was not part of the ribbon and that the ribbon just slid into the white part… but, once figured that out, all went according to the steps. Turned the set back on and pnly sound, no picture at all. I am sure the chip is seated and installed correctly. Neither the lamp nor the fan turn on. I verified all the connections we secure (especially the fan), no clue why the lamp does not light since it was not touched during these steps.

ANy troubleshooting suggestions? I’m out of ideas.

drgreeley - Reply

Replaced the DLP chip without much of an issue at all except for the confusing part withthe ribbon cable on the back of the formatter board. Didn’t realize it was litterally just a cable and the white connector part was part of the formatter board. Once I figured that out, all went according to the instructions. Turned the set on and had sound but no picture - black screen. The fan did not start nor did the lamp light. I have verified all connectors in place and secure. Thoughts on troubleshooting?

drgreeley - Reply

I replaced it and a week later it started again what else can it be this is killing me

Philip whitlow - Reply

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