Introduction

This guide will show you how to replace the sponge rubber on the feed breakers in your printer. This is necessary if the text appears too far up or down on the paper when printing. If your printer does not feed the paper correctly or if it only empties a blank sheet despite full toner and correct settings, this fix may fix the problem.

It is recommended to replace the foam rubber directly with all feed breakers. Otherwise it may be that you have to repair again in the near future or the repair is not successful.

  1. Before you start, turn off the printer and remove all cables
    • Before you start, turn off the printer and remove all cables

    • In order to work better, it is recommended to remove the paper from the rear and front paper feed.

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  2. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the Philips screw that holds the memory cover on the right side of the printer in place.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the Philips screw that holds the memory cover on the right side of the printer in place.

    • Remove the memory cover.

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    • Open the cover to change the toner

    • Remove the two Phillips screws that connect the top cover to the chassis.

    • Since the cover is in the way, you can put the screwdriver only diagonally on the screws. Be careful not to damage them.

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    • Remove the top cover from the printer.

    • Lift the cover on the front to easily and easily remove it.

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    • To remove the side cover, the front paper feed must be opened. In addition, the front paper cassette must be removed by pulling out to release one of the clips.

    • The cover is held in position by several clips. Removing the side cover is the hardest part of the guide.

    • Using a spudger or a flat-head screwdriver you can easily loosen the clips (see picture 2). There are several clips around the cover. Only when all are solved, the side cover can be removed.

    • Once all the clips have been released, you can fold the cover out of the front of the paper feeder (see picture 3).

    • Make sure you do not damage any clips when removing the cover!

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    • Remove all cables from the board.

    • The green marked cables are very tight and difficult to loosen. Take your time and do not exercise too much violence.

    • Do not pull too hard on the cables as they may be damaged. Attempt to loosen the plugs with a spudger or flat-head screwdriver.

    • If it's impossible to remove the green marked cables, you can still complete the guide with attached cables and PCB. But still, it is advisable to remove these cables.

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    • Remove the three Philips screws securing the board

    • Remove the board from the printer

    • The board is additionally held in place with a small hook. When you remove the board, you need to unhinge it.

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    • Remove the Phillips screw that secures the gear cover.

    • Be sure to remove the cables from the bracket (green area)!

    • Remove the gear cover.

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    • Here are the three intake breakers to work on in the next steps.

    • At the red marked areas usually sits black foam rubber. This causes the problem - over time, it becomes sticky, which causes the interruption of the indentation only delayed. Thus, the paper is fed too short / too far before the printing starts. This will move the text up or down.

    • In most cases, not every entry-breaker causes problems. Nevertheless, it is advisable to replace the foam rubber directly on all parts in order to permanently eliminate the problem.

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    • On this feed breaker, you can find foam rubber on the bracket as well as on the main feed breaker.

    • On the photo you can already see the fixed parts. In the green marked spots normally sits black foam rubber.

    • Use a Philips screwdriver to remove the screw securing the feed breaker to the main frame.

    • Remove the feed breaker.

    • Be careful that you don't loose the small spring which connects the bracket to the feed breaker!

    • Remove the bracket afterwards by removing the small spring with tweezers.

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    • The green marked area usually contains black sponge rubber.

    • Use a slotted screwdriver, a spudger or something similar to remove the sponge rubber. .

    • Then clean the place to remove the glue residue. For cleaning, e.g. Brake cleaner or silicone spray can be used.

    • After the spot has been cleaned, new sponge rubber or something similar (e.g., felt or shrink tubing as shown in the picture) may be applied.

    • Before reinstalling, also clean the place where the sponge rubber on the bracket has come into contact with the small metal bracket in the printer to remove the glue residue.

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    • The green marked area usually contains black sponge rubber.

    • Use a slotted screwdriver, a spudger or something similar to remove the sponge rubber.

    • Then clean the place to remove the glue residue. For cleaning, e.g. Brake cleaner or silicone spray can be used.

    • After the spot has been cleaned, new sponge rubber or something similar (e.g., felt or shrink tubing as shown in the picture) may be applied.

    • Before reinstalling, also clean the place where the sponge rubber on the bracket has come into contact with the small metal bracket in the printer to remove the glue residue.

    • In picture 2 you can see the two repaired parts side by side.

    • To reinstall the parts, follow step 10 in reverse order.

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    • For the two remaining feed breakers, the foam rubber is located only on the feed breakers themselves.

    • Remove the Philips screw and then remove the feed breaker

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    • Use tweezers or forceps to remove the spring that connects the metal fork to the feed breaker.

    • Make sure that the spring does not fly away when removing!

    • Then remove the metal fork.

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    • Use a slotted screwdriver, a spudger or something similar to remove the sponge rubber.

    • Then clean the place to remove the glue residue. For cleaning, e.g. Brake cleaner or silicone spray can be used.

    • After the site has been cleaned, new sponge rubber or something similar (e.g., felt or shrink tubing as shown in Figure 3) can be applied.

    • Before reinstalling, also clean the area where the sponge rubber has come into contact with the metal fork to remove the glue residue.

    • After cleaning and replacing the sponge rubber, the metal fork can be re-attached to the retraction breaker. To do this, follow step 14 in reverse order.

    • Then the feed breaker can be re-installed in the printer. To do this, follow step 13 in reverse order.

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    • Remove the plug that connects the feed breaker to the board.

    • Then remove the Philips screw and remove the feed breaker.

    • Then follow steps 14 and 15 to remove the metal fork and old sponge rubber. To reinstall the metal fork, follow step 14 in reverse order. To reinstall the feed breaker in the printer, follow this step in reverse order.

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    • Here is the finished result. On all four intake breakers, the old sponge rubber was removed and replaced.

    • To check whether the repair was successful, you can press the metal fork against the feed breaker by hand. If you then let go off the metal fork, it should immediately jump back on the gear.

    • On the other hand, if the metal fork lingers briefly after being released and only returns with a delay, either the material that was used as a replacement is unsuitable or the area has not yet been completely cleaned of all adhesive residues. In this case, steps 10, 11 and 12 or 13, 14 and 15 or 16 should be repeated again.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow the steps in reverse order.

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Beerwema

Member since: 06/20/2014

240 Reputation

2 Guides authored

6 Comments

Thank you so much for writing this! My FS-1010 which I could not bring myself to throw out is now working perfectly! Many thanks!

Antony King - Reply

Thanks for your comment, I’m really happy that the guide helped you to repair your printer.

I updated the guide today, since I realized I forgot to mention one spot where you also need to replace the sponge rubber. Please have a look at step 12, if you didn’t clean away the sponge rubber there, it is advisable to open the printer once again to clean the spot.

At the moment the new step isn’t translated into Englisch, but I will add the translation shortly.

Wish you happy printing!

Beerwema -

Dear Beerwema. Thanks for this guide. It just saved my 15 year old printer from going to landfill - may it and its original toner cartridge go for another 15 years! I salute you :-)

Just a quick note -In step 6 I could not remove the green marked cables - I just left them attached and removed the board - there was enough slack in the cables to let me complete all the other steps no problem with the board still attached to the two cables.

Thanks again.

FanManBam - Reply

Thanks for your comment, I’m really happy that my guide helped you to repair your printer.

The FS-1010 is a really reliable printer, aside from the issue with the foam rubber. The toner cartridge really lasts forever, so it may be possible to print with it for the next 15 years :-).

According to your suggestion I added a note to step 6. Thanks for your advice!

I wish you happy printing!

Beerwema -

Vielen herzlichen Dank für diese Anleitung. Sie hat mir sehr geholfen. War schon am Verzweifeln….

Aber nun läuft er wieder richtig. Allerdings habe ich die Metallplättchen “blank” gelassen.

Sollte es nicht auf Dauer funktionieren, dann nehme ich ihn nochmal auseinander und mache Schrumpfschlauch drüber.

Nun funzt er aber erstmal.

Danke Danke Danke

D.K.

Hugo Laptop - Reply

Hallo Hugo Laptop,

schön, dass die Anleitung auch dir helfen konnte und dein Drucker nun wieder funktioniert.

Danke für den Hinweis, dass das Ganze auch ohne Schrumpfschlauch o.ä. funktioniert. Ich denke mal, das Moosgummi wird hauptsächlich zum verringern der Lautstärke eingesetzt, deshalb funktioniert es wohl auch komplett ohne Moosgummi.

Viel Spaß beim Drucken!

Gruß

Beerwema -

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