Introduction

Don't pay Apple to replace your worn out battery. Do it yourself!

Remove the eight 4 mm Phillips screws securing the lower case to the MacBook.
  • Remove the eight 4 mm Phillips screws securing the lower case to the MacBook.

According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.

Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?

Gregoire - Reply

They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...

weeowey weeowey -

The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.

svenaustx - Reply

Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?

nm - Reply

A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III

weeowey weeowey -

hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?

thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.

michelvanaar - Reply

The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!

I hope that helps!

gdesbrisay -

The lower case is constructed of rubber-coated aluminum. Do not excessively bend the aluminum during removal, as any permanent deformation will cause tolerance issues after reassembly. Slightly lift the lower case near the vent opening. Continue running your fingers between the lower and upper cases until the upper case pops off its retaining clips.
  • The lower case is constructed of rubber-coated aluminum. Do not excessively bend the aluminum during removal, as any permanent deformation will cause tolerance issues after reassembly.

  • Slightly lift the lower case near the vent opening.

  • Continue running your fingers between the lower and upper cases until the upper case pops off its retaining clips.

  • The location of these three clips is shown in the third picture.

Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?

John Morley - Reply

Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.

John Morley -

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It may be easier to use your fingernails to lift up on both sides of the connector.

Hi,

for error I did step 3 as last one. The battery now is no more recognized by my macbook.

Did I make such a tremendous mistake that cause the battery to fail ??

Enrico D - Reply

Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Remove two 5 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.
  • Remove two 5 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.

"Tri-Wing Screws"? I don't see a "Tri-Wing Screwdriver" listed in the "Tools" section.

barryjaylevine - Reply

See here: http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Tri-wing-Y1-...

All tools required are included here: http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/54-Bit-Drive...

Just did it myself ;)

Hannes -

5mm tri-wing screw??

Its hardly that big. It certainly requires a tri-wing screwdriver much smaller than a 5mm tri-wing screwdriver - "Y1" is probably 1mm. The smallest I had was a 2mm tri-wing screwdriver and it just worked ok.

I think this and step 5 should be edited with better information.

yy yy - Reply

The original iFixit guide described the step 4 screws as "tri-wing" but that is incorrect, it should say "tri-point" or "Y", and the required screwdriver diameter is 2 mm, not 5 mm. See this image:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scr...

The top row is tri-wing, the bottom row is tri-point, as found in this MacBook.

irvbromberg - Reply

My tri-wing screws were black, 2mm and totally seized up. I had to break the plastic around the screw holes in the battery, remove it and then un screw them with long nose pliers. Needless to say they are now replaced with Philips screws.

Al Livesey - Reply

A Y1 screwdriver emphatically did not fit mine - so in case it saves others buying a useless set of security bits like I did, you need a Y0, like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/tri-wing-y0-tri...

Jo Wilson - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully peel back the finger of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully peel back the finger of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-point screw.

  • Remove the 5 mm Tri-point screw securing the battery to the upper case.

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Remove three 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the battery near the edge of the upper case.
  • Remove three 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the battery near the edge of the upper case.

  • When reinstalling the battery, be sure to install these three screws before proceeding to fasten the Tri-point screws.

When I re-installed the battery, I inadvertently ripped the ribbon between the Trackad ribbon and the battery ribbon. Be Careful!

Joel Gilbert - Reply

"Remove three 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the battery near the edge of the upper case".

Using the tools I bought from iFixit, I have got this far, no worries :)

The channels underneath/around these screws appear damaged and will not allow the screw to unwind and come out, therefore, the screws are "stuck". (This is by no means an indictment of the mini screwdrivers.) Any suggestions to help, because the replacement battery will not fit with these screws in place. Thanks.

jane - Reply

These last 3 screws were a bit** to get off. One of them actually would not come out but I managed to slip the battery out anyways. Maybe it nudged just enough. Getting it back in was okay, just slid it under. Fit was snug, had to be careful not to break or crimp the ribbon in front of the battery connector, as Joel stated. Simply snipped a piece of the plastic tab from the old battery and stood it up in this spot and slid the battery down, this kept the ribbon from crimping. Only one of these last 3 screws that I did get out, did I put back in. Not sure why they are there as the tabs that hold them are enough to hold the battery. All other screws and battery connector worked like a charm. Replaced the cover, turn it on and Whala!!! Only got a message that said I needed to reset the Date & Time. Got it on the charger now, as new battery only had 75% charge, so fingers crossed it will recharge at a 100% and last longer than the old battery before it's next charge. Good luck everyone!!

Terri C - Reply

Use the battery's plastic pull tab to lift and remove the battery from the upper case.
  • Use the battery's plastic pull tab to lift and remove the battery from the upper case.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

236 other people completed this guide.

28 Comments

what size is the tri-wing screwdriver used in this guide(0,1,2,3,4,5?)

aknewhope - Reply

I bought a tri wing y1 from Wera, but it was way to big.... I guess I'll buy the ifixit bit set, but otherwise I would try y0.

--edit-- Looking at the photo's here of the tri-wing screws, it more looks like my macbook has different screws. Mine are black and as large as the other normal screws.

Looks like the 2010 version has y0 somehow.

Peterdk -

I just replaced the battery on my late 2009 mac and thanks to this and all the other detailed guides it was actually quite simple (save for those cursed tri-wings). Don't feed apple with money you can spend on better things. A battery-removel isn't one of them.

Sebastian Koch - Reply

For those that have questions about the size of the bit, every article starts with "Tools". The tri-wing is size Y1 as the guide says. 5mm is the length of the screw itself, not the size of the bit.

Just replaced a battery myself. The replacement battery (from an ebay seller) is supposed to be genuine, but was missing the "Warning, do not remove the battery" sticker and the "Do not throw in the trash" sticker, and the main sticker was glossy with air bubbles. Not sure if fake or not. But have been working great this first night.

This guide was spot on. Followed every step, and used the iFixit kit when doing the repair.

tech - Reply

I just replaced the battery, using a battery and tools from iFixit, and the guide was perfect. Many thanks!

bobleigh - Reply

If you cant find a tri-wing screwdriver, a very VERY small straight (2-sided) screwdriver will suffice.

jpbarbash - Reply

I got the "Service Battery" warning after replacing my old "bloated" battery. Did I do something wrong during the process ('cause I did exactly the same as the guide) or is it the battery the faulty one (it worked just fine from my observation)? Or is it software related? Appreciate feedbacks... (^_^)

Mohd Zulothman Mustapha - Reply

Thanks for the great guide. Taking my time it took only about 15 minutes beginning to end. . . a very simple procedure. Reviewing the instructions ahead of time I saw that I needed a tri-wing screwdriver, so I took a quick trip to Harbor Freight and purchased a electronics driver and bit kit. I saved my daughter a lot of money replacing the battery myself and I got some new tools in the bargain!

David Smith - Reply

No Batteries Available in Power icon at top of the screen....?

I successfully replaced the battery two weeks ago. Today, I needed to change the trackpad due to it having a mind of its own...followed the instructions on iFixit step by step (removing the battery and the trackpad and then reassembling), but when I tried to start up the computer it would not boot except when hooked up to its power supply. The battery icon at the top of the screen, when I clicked on it, states No Batteries Available. (I reinstalled the old weak battery as a check and got the same message). Any ideas or solutions? Thanks for any help!

David Smith - Reply

Update: I took the computer to an Apple Authorized Repair Center. They first diagnosed the problem as the incorrect battery being installed, and after further examination determined the logic board was malfunctioning. They wanted well over $350 to replace the board; I will take care of this at a later date for a lower price! Be sure to disconnect the battery cable carefully, using your fingernails or a nonconductive spudger...I believe that's where I went wrong with the disassembly.

David Smith -

Newest update: Operated computer off of power supply since the logic board was malfunctioning. Found a new logic board on eBay ($150), and the seller offered to install it if I'd ship the computer to him which I did. The replacement board solved the problem...all I now need to do is to replace the old, weak battery sometime in the future (this time with the correct tools...a small Phillips driver, a tri-wing, and, most importantly, a nonconductive spudger).

David Smith -

hi David,

hope you are doing well.

I think I have the same issue with my Macbook white A1342 would you please provide me the information to the person who installed the new logic board. the reason why I want to fix mine is that I just bought a new battery and I really want to use it instead of it being a waste.

thank you

Abdullah

Abdul Sa -

In response to the question about where to get the motherboard replaced I used an eBay seller to do so . I searched for "MacBook A1342 logic board repair" and found a few vendors who will do the repair for less than $150.00, plus S/H.

David Smith -

thank you David

Abdul Sa -

Hey! Installed a new battery in my MacBook Late 2009! Works great! Thank you iFixit!

But: Be Careful with the battery connector - you have to peel it from one side , then the other side - otherwise you´ll damage it!

nm - Reply

I swapped out my battery, everything seemed to go very smoothly, now my computer won't turn on. I tried putting the old battery back in, still no sign of life. Won't even come on with the power cord plugged in. Any suggestions?

jonathanburger - Reply

You very likely knocked the keyboard ribbon cable our of place. It’s easy to do when changing out the battery on this model. Look at the guide to A1342 logic board replacement to see how to properly remove, and reseat the keyboard ribbon cable.

Lance J -

Thank you iFixit for such up close photos. This really allowed me to perform this task myself. Truly appreciate it!!

Terri C - Reply

Bought my battery (A1342) and a Y1 screwdriver bit (I already had the PH-00), and I got through step 3 no problem. The problem that arose is that the tri-wing screws holding the battery on appear to be Y0, rather than Y1. As another commenter has noted, it looks like the screws are different: black rather than brass, with a smaller head. I'm pretty well boned until I can get hold of a smaller Y set.

Disappointing, since I've had good luck with iFixit how-tos in the past.

Scott H - Reply

Absolutely superb thank you. I've just replaced my April 2010 MacBook battery with a SLODA.

The original battery did very well - 2490 charges and lasted 6.5 years. Sadly, it failed and grown in size and popped out the trackpad. New battery is working superbly!

prwinn - Reply

Completed the replacement last night. I used the tri wing from iFixit and an iFixit replacement battery. The only hiccup I encountered was in removing the old, original battery. The final screw on the bottom was over-tightened and it stripped. Everything else went well. After installing the new battery, and before turning the laptop on, I reset the SMC just in case. Everything is working perfectly and my laptop now has it's original approximately 9 of battery life.

Chris Malka - Reply

Hi Chris, I'm attempting a battery change myself and one of the screws holding the battery down is also over-tight and stripped: I just can't get it out (though I'm working with the right tri-wing screw). How did you manage to pull yours out?

Thanks!

daniela.vargas -

If your tri-wing screws are seized up as mine were, you can nibble away the plastic around the screw mounts on the battery with long nose pliers and a flat head driver enough to extract the battery. I then unscrewed them with the pliers. Have replaced tri screws with Philips.

Al Livesey - Reply

Is it possible to remove the swollen battery, not replace it, and just use the computer while attached to the power source from then on?

Follow-Up, if you cannot use it without replacing the swollen battery, is it safe to briefly use the laptop with the swollen battery to remove personal files? (Battery is swollen enough that the track back has popped out of it's area.

I appreciate the thoughts

lgxc20 - Reply

Yes, you can use an A1342 without a battery. However, note that magsafe is not your friend in a no-battery scenario, as knocking the magsafe out of place will immediately power off your MacBook.

Lance J -

My A1342 had a battery that swelled up and pushed the trackpad through the case, damaging the case en route.

I’ve successfully replaced the battery, but now the trackpad is flopping around due to the “notch” damage to the case. Does anyone have any tips for repairing such damage to the case? I otherwise love this oldie but goodie.

Lance J -

As several others have commented, the security screws are definitely Y0, not Y1. Please can this be updated in the tools summary and steps 4/5.

Jo Wilson - Reply

Two of my Tri-wing screws were immovable. My solution was putting a microdrop of WD-40 at the tip of an Exacto knife and spreading it around the screw. The knife tip also seemed to release the screw head from its environment. I don't know what part of this worked, but something did. The screws then came right out.

Robert Knox - Reply

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