iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 SSD Dual Drive Installation Replacement

Trade your optical drive for a second hard drive.

There are many benefits to adding a second hard drive to your iMac such as improved speeds, greater storage space, and less heartache when installing new software. Use this guide to install one using our optical bay hard drive enclosure.

Edit Step 1 Glass Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Glass Panel  ¶ 

  • Before beginning, unplug your iMac and lay it on a soft surface as shown.

  • Stick a suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.

  • Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.

  • During reinstallation, be sure to meticulously clean the inside of the glass panel and the face of the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is turned on.

Edit Step 3 Display  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Display  ¶ 

  • Remove the eight 8 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the outer case.

    • The last two pictures are detail shots of each side of the display.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case.

  • Do not lift it too much. There are several cables attaching the display to the logic board.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Pull the vertical sync cable connector out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Rotate the display out of the outer case enough to disconnect the LED backlight power cable from the LED driver board.

  • Disconnect the LED backlight power cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket (toward the bottom edge of the iMac).

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards upwards.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • If your fan is spinning full speed after completion, check this connection or the hard drive's thermal sensor cable.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the outer case, minding any cables that may get caught.

Edit Step 10 Optical Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the following four screws:

    • One 9.3 mm T10 Torx screw with a large head

    • Three 9.3 mm T10 Torx screws with a normal sized head

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Pull the optical drive thermal sensor connector toward the top edge of the iMac to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Lift the inner edge of the optical drive and maneuver its connector past the GPU frame attached to the logic board.

  • Carefully pull the optical drive off its mounting pins on the right side of the outer case to gain clearance for disconnecting the optical drive cable.

  • Allow the optical drive to hang down as you de-route the optical drive thermal sensor connector from behind the GPU heat sink.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the optical drive cable by pulling its connector away from the optical drive.

  • Remove the optical drive from the iMac.

  • Do not forget to also move the thermal sensor from the optical drive to the enclosure when you install the second hard drive.

Edit Step 14 Optical Drive Enclosure Faceplate  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14 Optical Drive Enclosure Faceplate  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 3.0 mm Phillips #0 screws from the optical bay enclosure.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Starting from the left edge, gently pull open the optical bay enclosure.

  • Continue to pull open the two halves of the enclosure until they separate.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3.0 mm Phillips #0 screws securing the faceplate to the optical bay enclosure.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Lift the black plastic faceplate out of the optical bay enclosure.

    • You will no longer need the faceplate or the two Phillips screws that held it in place. Set those parts aside if you ever wish to put the faceplate back into the enclosure.

  • Reassemble the optical bay enclosure without the faceplate, reusing the original three 3.0 mm Phillips screws to keep it intact.

Edit Step 18 Dual Hard Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18 Dual Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the plastic positioner from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure.

  • Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot.

  • While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic positioner while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.

  • Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389 device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #0 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

TR10 Torx Security Screwdriver

$1.95 · 50+ In stock

Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)

$14.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

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Pro Magnetic Project Mat

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Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

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Comments Comments are onturn off

hello,many thanks for fantastic guide, i flowed it today, put 16 gig memory and a 512 crucial ssd drive in, took 20 mins,and working perfectly,did a fresh install of yosemite on new drive then restored stuff from time machine, my 2010 iMac is flying now,really pleased

edythegolfer, · Reply

And about the fan speed? Do not need replace the cables?

diogoadm, · Reply

Change "Before beginning, unplug your iMac and lay it on a soft surface as shown." to "Lay your iMac on a soft surface as shown"

Henry Barnett, · Reply

my imac power sullye not powering

tahir, · Reply

imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering

please tell me the directions

thanks witting for answering .

tahir, · Reply

Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.

Robert Wacker,

Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

kctipton, · Reply

Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)

See part 2 below...

Matthew Elvey, · Reply

(Part 2:)

I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!

Matthew Elvey,

I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.

Matthew Elvey,

What the ???

Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/history/ste...

I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.

Matthew Elvey,

I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.

cdansmith1, · Reply

Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

MaximBorzov, · Reply

You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

Deepsurvival, · Reply

Do not try to pull the plug off the circuit board as it's soldered. Pull the cable sideways out of the socket.

Alex Campbell, · Reply

Skipped step 5-10. I used two 5-6" chopsticks to prop up the display, this gave me more than enough room to complete the rest of the steps. I only had to disconnect the 3 cables are directly connected to the hard drive. Replacing the Seagate hard drive with another Seagate hard drive eliminated any cable issues. Now I have 2TB SSDH

jaime martinez, · Reply

This cable is very short, I would remove it before any of the others. First time I did this, I didn't realize this and this cable just popped out of it's socket. Luckily, the board wasn't damaged.

maccentric, · Reply

i damaged my (step7) cable, and my iMac screen won't work, how to fix this?

Ersan Rasubala, · Reply

I did the same thing. The pins are VERY easy to bend. I replaced it with a new cable from this company.

http://www.macpalace.com/922-9497-cable-...

Waiting for it to arrive.

Michael,

I wish this step was listed as a warning before lifting the monitor and as the first cable to undo. I broke it as it popped up and out, had to trash my Mac and I am stuck with a new hard drive.

Frank1701a, · Reply

I followed the directions to a T and everything worked going back together. That cable in step 7 is delicate so one must be very careful.

dustynnelson,

Same problem for me. I damaged this cable and am ordering one now.

This is a tough step so I would also suggest removing this cable first.

lyleberman, · Reply

Yes, damaged mine too. It is better to take it out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board, then install it to the LCD.

asle,

Ok finally got the cable and was able to successfully finish the project.

That video cable is ROUGH to install.

lyleberman, · Reply

The same thing happened for me. That cable was by far the shortest and a slight pull of the display up caused the connector to come free. Luckily it wasn't damaged by this. It was pretty unclear to me how that connector fit in as well. It slides in and out parallel to the surface of the mother board, up towards the top of the iMac to unplug and down towards the bottom to plug in. I agree, if I were to do this repair again that is the first interior cable I would disconnect. Maybe a closeup of the cable plugged in and unplugged to show exactly how it engages and disengages would be good as well.

danieljseta, · Reply

It is fine to remove the cable from the logic board when when you remove the screen. But when when assembling back together I found it better to take the LVDS cable out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board. Then connect it to the top of the LCD. Also the connector to the LCD is much more solid and not so easy to bend.

asle, · Reply

Be very careful - this connector very difficult to disconnect, and you have a high risk of pulling the cable pins out of the connect. If you have disconnected the 3 other cables, you can have a helper rotate the screen out of the way while you remove the hard drive.

Brian Tsai, · Reply

No need to do this! Just gently pull up the felt-pad sticky on top of the thermal sensor (looks like a tiny circuit board), then (again gently) peel the thermal sensor off the ODD. Leave it hanging while you remove the ODD and replace it with the SSD, then just put the thermal sensor covered by the protective felt-pad back onto the SSD enclosure.

cdansmith1, · Reply

I agree with cdansmith1, above.

I had removed the sensor completely. Booted up and the fan was like a jet engine - 4200rpm! I opened up the mac again to check the LCD thermal sensor cable was connected properly (as warned in Step 8). It was.

So, I simply used the spudger to peel off the felt sticky pad from and then the optical drive sensor too from the drive I'd taken out. Stuck the sensor onto the SSD using the same sticky pad, plugged it back into the original socket. Bingo. Booted up and everything was back to normal.

Monkeyrebirth, · Reply

Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

Roman Quenin, · Reply

plug in the back of the ssd

Roman Quenin,

I'm trying to find out as well. I read elsewhere you need something like this without the bracket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

However I have NOT confirmed this.

Allen Borza,

If I understand you correctly; the enclosure allows you to use the existing iMac optical cable. Also the enclosure allows for a safe fitting of the optical drive. In my newer machine I had to double side tape the SSD to the back of the iMac and buy a special cable. Note: this was not an optical drive replacement scenario or I would have done exactly as this tutorial suggests.

EkDor, · Reply

Just curious, why is it necessary to remove this black plastic faceplate from the enclosure? It doesn't appear to serve any function in or out of the enclosure.

Nic Johnson, · Reply

Maybe because it would interfere with the bracket you have to put back on in step 21?

Jeff Dickson,

So I'm confused about the Optical Drive Bracket, the one that originally held the DVD-CD drive. I had an awful time remounting the kit into that bracket as the screws didn't line up correctly. I finally got everything to fit, less one of the four holding screws. Did anyone else experience this problem? I would have expected a much better alignment for this assembly considering the quality of the iFixIt site.

For the record, the upgrade went fine with a SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD, but that one step was next to impossible, and not covered in any detail by the instructions.

Ron Lockhart, · Reply

Yep, I had exactly the same problem. The alignment was way off.

olafgoy,

My kit also did not line up correctly. I had to put all four screws in at an angle cross-threaded to mount the unit.

Kevo,

Same here. managed to get two screws in at a decent angle on one side and couldn't get the others in. Felt solid enough once I'd screwed the original ODD casing back onto the iMac.

Monkeyrebirth,

I had the same alignment problem, too. I ended up removing the rubber grommets from the plastic enclosure, widening the holes with a small file, then replacing the grommets. All four screws went in, but not in perfect alignment. Should be ok, though.

nickmalmquist,

Another possibility is the part has been designed to be used with different types of iMac and some utilise this component. In this case it apparently doesn't.

EkDor, · Reply

I bought a different enclosure than the one recommended ($18 instead of $39) and it came with new screws because the old screws were too big to fit in the holes for the new enclosure.

Keith Mewis, · Reply

Hi. Which enclosure did you buy? link please.

Alex,

Where did you get the alternative enclosure from?

Walter Poole,

I completed this guide last night on my iMac and it all worked great until I got to step 26 and none of the holes on the 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure lined up with the black plastic faceplate. Just like what is being commented on by previous fixers, I could only get 2 screws on one side of the enclosure in, but they were crooked and unable to screw in all the way. It was crude, but it worked.

The rest of this guide works flawlessly. This is a great site!

Marc, · Reply

Why no mention of attaching the new hard drive to the Optical Drive Enclosure using the enclosed phillips screws?

Once you have securely inserted the new hard drive into the Optical Drive Enclosure and replaced the plastic positioner you should attach the drive to the enclosure using two of the provided phillips screws. Two holes on the underside of the enclosure should align with two attachment holes on the underside of the drive.

nickmalmquist, · Reply

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