Introduction

Tripped over your power cord? At least you don't have to replace the entire logic board.

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  • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

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  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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  • Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

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  • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

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  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

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Image 1/1: The shorter screw is in the center of the computer.
  • Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver (or Allen screws using an Allen key if these are used).

  • The shorter screw is in the center of the computer.

Why use a T8 Torx when these screws are metric hex 2? The T8 didn't work at all. Other than that this was a very easy repair. It cost $29 instead of the $150 that I paid the last time a Mac shop made the same repair.

dalekaty - Reply

Quote from dalekaty:

Why use a T8 Torx when these screws are metric hex 2? The T8 didn't work at all. Other than that this was a very easy repair. It cost $29 instead of the $150 that I paid the last time a Mac shop made the same repair.

Had the same issue with a T8, although I blamed that on my T8 being quite stripped. Finding an appropriate bit was quite a challenge... but I'm pretty certain a T8 isn't correct. The screws have a hex head, not a Torx... maybe T8 is the closest thing that tends to fit...

Matt Falcon - Reply

The screw on the left wasnt able to get tight for some reason

Helena - Reply

Not Torx, but allen key (British wrench), 2mm

alicelittle - Reply

I attempted this last night following all the steps correctly, when I was done my ibook would not turn on. Now sure where I went wrong? Any ideas. Thank you

stefanienikole - Reply

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  • Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

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Image 1/1: Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
  • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

  • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

I printed these instructions out, and this one was at the top of page 2. I found the first paragraph amusing enough that I had to show my boss.

Kristoffer Bisher - Reply

Image 1/1: Be careful not to break this clip!
  • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

  • Be careful not to break this clip!

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  • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

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  • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

For me, this was really the toughest part! Trying to find/get a good grip on the iBook and really *forcing* that spudger around. All without scratching the display.

bccreative - Reply

Once you loosen the the front the seam is very tight. I was able to slide the spudger in the middle of the port side instead of starting at the corner.

Robert Oliver - Reply

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  • There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

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  • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free (it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down).

This was the scariest part for me. I had to wiggle it a lot as it seemed to be stuck. But it did come loose.

Robert Oliver - Reply

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  • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

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Image 1/1: Six 3 mm Phillips
  • Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:

    • Six 3 mm Phillips

    • Three 7.5 mm Phillips

    • One 14 mm Phillips

My 1 GHz iBook G4 only had the two 7.5 mm Phillips on the right and the two 3 mm Phillips above the battery compartment.

geekspeak - Reply

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  • Lift the bottom shield off.

The front of the foil cover has a lip divided into four separate tabs. Use a blade to loosen each as they can be easily bent.

geekspeak - Reply

My dc board had 2 screws. for some reason when i tried to screw them both back in only one got tight. the other one just kept twirling so i left it out. i didnt want to have a loose screw rattling around in my computer.

also had trouble laying down the wire to the dc board. it wouldnt lay flat but i was able to get it flat enough. overall it worked and the computer is now up and running!

thank you! it was pretty easy

Helena - Reply

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  • Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.

This is the first screw of the many on this part of the tear down that really needs the Phillips #00 screwdriver.

turtlejp - Reply

At this point alternate hard drive can be connected to logic board for testing. Alternate hard drive and drive cable req'd. Remove hard drive cable from logic board. Plug in alternate cable and drive.

A81Sturmer - Reply

My 1 GHz DC board had two Phillips, one on the far left and one next to the Z10B label.

geekspeak - Reply

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  • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.

My entire black woven cable cover was stuck down pretty well w/ 2x stick tape.

bccreative - Reply

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  • Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary, and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

On this iBook, the DC board had a small Phillips screw on it.

adamprall - Reply

Woops - never mind - neglected the screw from previous step.

adamprall - Reply

Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

drscole - Reply

Quote from drscole:

Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

I agree - having the right tools is the key to this going smoothly. It would have useful to have more detail around where the long and short screws go on the heat shield. This is minor niggle and overall good instructions.

jlwatts1 - Reply

Oops! I hit the wrong button. I did not mean to "Flag as inappropriate".

geekspeak - Reply

Quote from drscole:

Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

The egg crate is a good idea. I use a piece of cardboard and I label each step and layout the screws visually as I pulled them out.

geekspeak - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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iRobot

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