Use this guide to replace your MacBook Pro's battery. Removing the battery requires a Tri-wing screwdriver.

Image 1/1: Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

mysterioes - Reply

Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.

Kyle Spadaro -

Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

- remove the assembly and flip it over

- again carefully remove the shielding tape

- undo 3 tiny screws

- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

- reverse process with replacement card.

image can be found here:

Remon - Reply

It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.

Human - Reply

3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.

-I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well

2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends

1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE

These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.

scottbernardis - Reply

I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.

Grace Morris - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the lower case. Image 2/2: Remove the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the lower case and the vent, and lift upward to release the clips holding the lower case to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case.

I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

d68ef792 - Reply

Image 1/2: Grab the plastic tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the device. Image 2/2: Pull the tab parallel to the face of the logic board.
  • Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits.

  • Grab the plastic tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the device.

  • Pull the tab parallel to the face of the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the three 6.5 mm Y2 Tri-wing screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Is the tri-wing screw size Y1 or Y2? In the tools required section the link is directed to a Y1 tri-wing screwdriver.

Art - Reply

I bought the Y1 and it worked just fine.

talldeadguy -

Also, not that the three tri-wing screws are not the same length. The one farthest from the hard drive is slightly shorter and will not work in the other 2 holes.

talldeadguy -

hi, i am trying to look for Y1/Y2 but cant find it in my country.. the one i have it says y 2.0x40mm, is it same?

ravi - Reply

Image 1/2: Peel the sticker off the right speaker/subwoofer enclosure. Image 2/2: It is not necessary to completely peel the sticker off the battery.
  • Use a plastic opening tool or another soft thin-edged tool to carefully lift up a corner of the "Warning: Do not remove the battery" sticker off the right speaker/subwoofer enclosure.

  • Peel the sticker off the right speaker/subwoofer enclosure.

  • It is not necessary to completely peel the sticker off the battery.

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift the battery by its attached pull tab and remove it from the upper case.

merci, c'est super , le centre de dépannage que j'ai contacté a(Bordeaux- Bègles) me dit "votre matériel est obsolète" impossible de trouver une batterie, en gros jetez votre mac( macbook pro de mi- 2009, 179 charges de batterie)

je la trouve sur IFIXIT au usa , je commande la batterie samedi soir dans la nuit, je suis livré mardi a 14,00hrs, 10mn de démontage & remontage, tout est OK.

C'est merveilleux, MERCI .

allard jean pierre - Reply

superb, could not have been simpler!!!

Vincent Sims - Reply


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

115 other people completed this guide.


There is a little rubber post under the battery, black with an orange inside guide. Where is that from?

Drago - Reply

Thanks for the info

Joe Ruelas -

Thanks for info

Joe Ruelas -

Maybe good to know: as this type of MacBook Pro is already ageing, mine showed some bulging in the battery. As I don't use my MacBook Pro anymore as a real laptop, for me, it doesn't matter anymore to replace the battery. But for safety reasons, I removed the bulging battery, and the MacBook Pro is still running fine!

Dirk Blom - Reply

Hello, i've tryed to do it but without the battry my macbook didn't turned on... do you have any tip? Did you have to configure anything inside? My mac is a Macbook pro 17'' 6,1 mid 2010

kirapereira -

@kirapereira, it should work. I took my bulging battery out and made no configuration changes. Just make sure you keep the MBP plugged into a working electrical outlet at all times and keep it plugged in while you are using it. If the magsafe connector gets dislodged for any reason the computer will shutdown immediately, no warnings or questions asked.

lordquake -

I just changed my A1297 model Late 2011 MacBook Pro 17" battery using a NewerTech battery kit (includes the two tools you need) that I sourced off OWC (OtherWorldComputing aka MacSales website) and using their installation video (while checking it against install guides on EverythingMac and the iFixit websites) The replacement went without a hitch and the battery is charging now The only thing I had to do was reset the clock after boot up I will report problems here, if any But if not, then Finito!

Alan Fiermonte - Reply

Hey There, I just replaced my battery from a website called, used the iFixit guide, and it works, but the battery dies at 30% every time, which is exactly what it did with the original battery. I took it into the GB and the new battery failed, I am guessing because its just third party, but power supply passed. My question is, does anyone recommend a good battery that doesn't die so prematurely? This one has a 1 year money back guarantee, it's why I bought it! But I am just not satisfied and really want to keep my laptop running great. Oh, it's an early 17" Unibody. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

kddeals - Reply

Replaced my battery safely with this guide! Thank you!

David Philipe Gil - Reply

Hello All!

I need a guide/link(PLEASE)MBP A1278,2.3Mhz Early 2011 battery replacement, more specifically is there anything special I need to do like "hold a button" when rebooting with the new one? I just want to make sure I'm doing it right and there is no "how to replace the battery procedure MBP A1278 13inch Early 2011" .

I know how to swap out a battery but want to make sure I do it correctly so as the MBP see's it as a new battery and resets the cycle count ETC(fully charges first time). So you know where I'm at, I am reassembling a used MBP2011 putting in my good MBP2011 battery(USED)then putting my brand new battery 2011MBP battery in the reassembly unit. I know there are guides here just can't find one(no site Nav)on proper procedure for this on MBP 2011 Early, as the only guide they have here is for a 17 inch(I assume there all the same)still no specific 1 telling me "HOW to reset cycle counter", ETC.

Help please.......

You'll get an ATTA BOY for a timely response :)



Philip settimi - Reply

A tech at a Simply Mac store said I shouldn't replace the battery myself because of some special adhesive between the battery and this true? They won't replace the battery because this model is now considered "vintage." I have the tools and already removed the back to clean out the I feel I'm capable, lol. Thanks!

arismom - Reply

straightforward !


thegardener - Reply

Clarification question: Is the Tri-wing screwdriver needed for this a Y1 or a Y2? The tools list says you need a Y1, but the appropriate step in the instructions says the screws are Y2.

Mark McKean - Reply

Thank you for the clear and concise instructions on how to remove the battery. I found that on my early 2011 - 17" MacBook Pro that the battery connector lifted upwards. I also noted that there was space for me to place the connector such that I could replace the lower cover and experiment with the MacBook Pro without actually removing the battery. I covered the connector with tape to avoid a short-circuit, closed the case and much to my delight the computer started again after zapping the PRAM several times. I did this because the touchpad shows no sign of weird behaviour, but if it had I would have removed the battery immediately. Now I can run the Apple Hardware Test and see what that says.

John - Reply

Please note that you might want to know the cycle count for your battery BEFORE you disconnect it. Go to About This Mac, select System Report, click on Hardware to expand it, click on Power, and near the top check what it says beside Cycle Count.

John -

After most of two weeks I reopened my MacBook Pro and reconnected the original battery. It ran for two days and then crashed, following which it vehemently refused to restart. After asking myself what had changed I disconnected the battery again and it started with the first attempt.

My MacBook Pro seems to need to be warm to restart properly. I will just keep it on all the time and if it crashes and is then reluctant to start up again I will just keep zapping the PRAM until it warms up. I am waiting to see if OS X v10.13 will run on my MacBook Pro before deciding what to do with it.

John -

Tim - 5/5/17

My daughter's MacBook Pro Model A1502 won't turn on with it plugged. I was told to check the battery, but wouldn't it turn on if plugged in to an outlet? Or if the battery needs replacement.. it would't tun on at all? Please advise. Thanks

Tim Bacheler - Reply

The bulged battery in my early 2011 A1297 17" MPP caused the clicker on the trackpad to quit working. Also, a thin-blade jeweler's screwdriver works to remove the tri-wing screws. I don't much recommend this because you might damage the screws if they are too tight, but I got away with it.

k4thwright - Reply

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