MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Battery Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace a worn-out battery on your MacBook Pro 17" Unibody.

Use this guide to replace your MacBook Pro's battery. Removing the battery requires a Tri-wing screwdriver.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Wedge your fingers between the lower case and the vent, and lift upward to release the clips holding the lower case to the upper case.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Wedge your fingers between the lower case and the vent, and lift upward to release the clips holding the lower case to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case.

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits.

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits.

  • Grab the plastic tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the device.

  • Pull the tab parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the three 6.5 mm Y2 Tri-wing screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 6.5 mm Y2 Tri-wing screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use a plastic opening tool or another soft thin-edged tool to carefully lift up a corner of the "Warning: Do not remove the battery" sticker off the right speaker/subwoofer enclosure.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool or another soft thin-edged tool to carefully lift up a corner of the "Warning: Do not remove the battery" sticker off the right speaker/subwoofer enclosure.

  • Peel the sticker off the right speaker/subwoofer enclosure.

  • It is not necessary to completely peel the sticker off the battery.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Lift the battery by its attached pull tab and remove it from the upper case.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Lift the battery by its attached pull tab and remove it from the upper case.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

10 Comments

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There is a little rubber post under the battery, black with an orange inside guide. Where is that from?

Drago - Reply

Maybe good to know: as this type of MacBook Pro is already ageing, mine showed some bulging in the battery. As I don't use my MacBook Pro anymore as a real laptop, for me, it doesn't matter anymore to replace the battery. But for safety reasons, I removed the bulging battery, and the MacBook Pro is still running fine!

Dirk Blom - Reply

I just changed my A1297 model Late 2011 MacBook Pro 17" battery using a NewerTech battery kit (includes the two tools you need) that I sourced off OWC (OtherWorldComputing aka MacSales website) and using their installation video (while checking it against install guides on EverythingMac and the iFixit websites) The replacement went without a hitch and the battery is charging now The only thing I had to do was reset the clock after boot up I will report problems here, if any But if not, then Finito!

Alan Fiermonte - Reply

important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

mysterioes - Reply

Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

- remove the assembly and flip it over

- again carefully remove the shielding tape

- undo 3 tiny screws

- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

- reverse process with replacement card.

image can be found here:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...

Remon - Reply

It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.

Human - Reply

I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

d68ef792 - Reply

Is the tri-wing screw size Y1 or Y2? In the tools required section the link is directed to a Y1 tri-wing screwdriver.

Art - Reply

I bought the Y1 and it worked just fine.

talldeadguy -

Also, not that the three tri-wing screws are not the same length. The one farthest from the hard drive is slightly shorter and will not work in the other 2 holes.

talldeadguy -


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