MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Battery Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace a worn-out battery on your MacBook Pro 17" Unibody.

Use this guide to replace your MacBook Pro's battery. Removing the battery requires a Tri-wing screwdriver.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Wedge your fingers between the lower case and the vent, and lift upward to release the clips holding the lower case to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case.

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits.

  • Grab the plastic tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the device.

  • Pull the tab parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 6.5 mm Y2 Tri-wing screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool or another soft thin-edged tool to carefully lift up a corner of the "Warning: Do not remove the battery" sticker off the right speaker/subwoofer enclosure.

  • Peel the sticker off the right speaker/subwoofer enclosure.

  • It is not necessary to completely peel the sticker off the battery.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Lift the battery by its attached pull tab and remove it from the upper case.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 17" Unibody device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

There is a little rubber post under the battery, black with an orange inside guide. Where is that from?

Drago, · Reply

Maybe good to know: as this type of MacBook Pro is already ageing, mine showed some bulging in the battery. As I don't use my MacBook Pro anymore as a real laptop, for me, it doesn't matter anymore to replace the battery. But for safety reasons, I removed the bulging battery, and the MacBook Pro is still running fine!

Dirk Blom, · Reply

important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

mysterioes, · Reply

Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

- remove the assembly and flip it over

- again carefully remove the shielding tape

- undo 3 tiny screws

- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

- reverse process with replacement card.

image can be found here:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...

Remon, · Reply

It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.

Human, · Reply

I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

d68ef792, · Reply

Is the tri-wing screw size Y1 or Y2? In the tools required section the link is directed to a Y1 tri-wing screwdriver.

Art, · Reply

I bought the Y1 and it worked just fine.

talldeadguy,

Also, not that the three tri-wing screws are not the same length. The one farthest from the hard drive is slightly shorter and will not work in the other 2 holes.

talldeadguy,

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