Installing MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Dual Hard Drive

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Use this guide to install a second hard drive in place of the optical drive.

There are many benefits to adding a second hard drive to your laptop such as improved speeds, greater storage space, and less heartache when installing new software. Use this guide to install one using our optical bay hard drive enclosure.

Relevant Parts

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remove the lower case.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

  • Remove the lower case.

Edit Step 3 Battery Connection  ¶ 

Image 1/2: It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

Edit Step 3 Battery Connection  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

Edit Step 5 Optical Drive  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 5 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Though not recommended by iFixit staff, some users opt to omit this step completely. For information on this, see the step comments.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Though not recommended by iFixit staff, some users opt to omit this step completely. For information on this, see the step comments.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling it upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/2: De-route the camera cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Carefully move the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable out of the way as you peel the camera cable off the adhesive securing it to the subwoofer and the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

  • De-route the camera cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/2: De-route the antenna cable from under the finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna connector closest to the logic board up from its socket on the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

  • De-route the antenna cable from under the finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Two 10.3 mm Phillips screws

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws:

    • Two 10.3 mm Phillips screws

    • Two 3.1 mm Phillips screws

    • One 5 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Move the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the subwoofer away from the top of the optical drive.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Pull the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the Subwoofer upward near the center of the side of the optical drive until they clear each other.

  • Move the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the subwoofer away from the top of the optical drive.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to disconnect it from the logic board.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger near the side of the optical drive.

  • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to disconnect it from the logic board.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Bend the hard drive cable away from the optical drive.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the hard drive cable away from the optical drive.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Pull the optical drive upward from its edge closest to the display and remove it from the upper case.

Edit Step 16 Optical Drive  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Be sure to pull on the connector, not the cable itself.

Edit Step 16 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Pull the optical drive cable away from the optical drive.

  • Be sure to pull on the connector, not the cable itself.

  • Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.

Edit Step 17 Dual Hard Drive  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 17 Dual Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the plastic spacer from the optical bay hard drive enclosure by pressing in on one of the clips on either side and lifting it up and out of the enclosure.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Make sure that the hard drive connectors are facing down before placing it into the enclosure.

  • Gently place the hard drive into the enclosure's hard drive slot.

  • While firmly holding the enclosure in place with one hand, use your other hand to press the hard drive into the enclosure connectors.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Once the hard drive is snug, reinsert the plastic spacer while holding the hard drive against the bottom of the enclosure.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Use two Phillips #1 screws to secure the drive to its enclosure.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Attach the optical drive bracket to the new enclosure with two Phillips #0 screws.

  • Reconnect any cables you have removed from the original optical drive onto the optical bay enclosure.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Align the cable's SATA connector with the drive's port and plug in securely.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Don't ditch that drive! You can still use your optical drive externally with the help of our SATA Optical Drive USB Cable.

  • Align the cable's SATA connector with the drive's port and plug in securely.

  • Plug the USB connector into your laptop and your optical drive is ready for use.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Now that you've finished, share your repair story with others.

Write a story

123 Comments

Add a comment

Thank you. Top.

emersonfn - Reply

Hi

Can someone guide me the best and cheap way to recover the data from my macbook pro late 2011 edition. I have tried to recover and reinstall OSX but failed. Now its time to format the drive and reinstall OSX. But i need to save my full data. Suggestions would be highly appreciated

newnitinanand1982 - Reply

Does void the warranty?

jfondeur - Reply

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

oakdragon12 - Reply

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

gunes314 - Reply

You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

Marshall Helgren -

Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Reply

Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

skimmilk05 -

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

John Adam Wickliffe - Reply

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

renatumb - Reply

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker - Reply

Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

kschmesk - Reply

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

Alex - Reply

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

brian whittle - Reply

Hello MacWorld,

Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

wer 10/5/15

tayseer999 - Reply

I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

GotMac - Reply

Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

taylornya - Reply

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh - Reply

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull -

This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

Steven Layton - Reply

My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

Diego Hernandes -

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

ausmkv - Reply

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

Peter - Reply

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

John - Reply

simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

toiu - Reply

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

fasthans - Reply

Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

aekinaka - Reply

Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

MacProUser - Reply

Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

Simon Mundy - Reply

I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

Zeerachen - Reply

Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

Ed Oliver - Reply

DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

Bradley Marks - Reply

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

Diego Hernandes - Reply

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

timgunkel - Reply

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Sal Ergrapes - Reply

"Carefully pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board."

I followed these instructions to the letter, heeding the warning to pull vertically.

The camera cable broke at the connector.

The connector was pretty tight in the socket. Had to use a tiny screw-driver to free it. There was no way simply pulling would have worked.

A quick google of "macbook pro camera cable broken" shows that this has happened to many other people, and been reported to ifixit. But no mention in the instructions. Disappointing.

The MBP no longer boots. The cable is soldered to the LCD, which must be replaced. $500?

Someone, PLEASE fix the instructions. It looks like many people have been hit by this.

Brian - Reply

Actually it says to pull parallel away from the board, so horizontally. It never said vertically and actually warns against pulling verticaly.

Technic Mender - Reply

I'd to disassemble my MBP two times because my SSD did not work properly in optibay. While doing it a second time, I omitted steps 6 and 8. It is really not necessary, but step 6 is really scary.

nicholas - Reply

Do you even need to do this?? I've seen guides where they just leave those on and slide the superdrive out from underneath that module..??

Philip - Reply

I've replaced 4 dvd's with hdd's already, in different macbooks, so wasn't too fussed about #5. However; this time I broke the camera connector cable :(

The connector is stil in it's socket, and I can't get it out no matter what I try. My guess is that some of the glue that connects the socket to the logic board, got into the socket as well. Prying with a small screwdriver, pulling with a pair of tweezers... nothing works. And this mbp belongs to a friend who uses his camera a lot for skyping...

I hope we're still friends after I tell him.

The thing is; I think it might be possible to do the whole operation with that cable still in its sockets; if you pull the rest of the cable free of the fingers, you can probably fold it out of the way when you lift the dvd out.

puchelaar - Reply

This is Sooo Unnecessary!! don't do it!

grant reynolds - Reply

I actually found it necessary to do this step. If not done you can rip chord, if you read the wording carefully and do as it says it should not break.

Robert Wacker - Reply

After having initially skipped this step, I finally followed it. I couldn't find a way to move the airport / bluetooth assembly away otherwise, and in the end it's a pain to put the small screws back in. Didn't have any trouble unplugging the camera cable, but it is indeed scary because it looks pretty fragile.

I only skipped step 8, as it didn't seem necessary.

JoGersen - Reply

I also broke my camera cable!!! And I just realized that removing that lovely cable was not necessary for the following steps!!! Thank you!

I dont know how to fix this problem and I asked it in this question: How can I fix broken camera cable

Please, help...

Yusuf - Reply

I omitted this step successfully

Diego Posadas - Reply

I skipped this step, but did step 8.

There was no way I was doing this step -- just remember that the cable is still plugged in, and work VERY CAREFULLY.

Serah Merrick - Reply

totally unnecessary. You can remove optical drive easily without disconecting that cable

hukko - Reply

Technic Mender, he is talking about Step 11. It says upward. Most untouched MBP's have a piece of sticky foam over the right subwoofer connection to the logic board, so you can't see how it is really supposed to come out but that step says pull upward. Ripped my right subwoofer connection straight from the logic board. Thanks iFixit, Step 11 has an unnecessary line that costs me money. You pull it laterally, not up.

tsmith - Reply

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 7, 8, and 11.

pauloau - Reply

This step is unnecessary, as is step 8. You can get the SuperDrive out and put the caddy in without pulling the cable out.

Steve - Reply

The disk utility sytem recognises my new HD however when I try to do the recovery setup I receive an error message.

daniel001 - Reply

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 8, and 11.

pauloau - Reply

I omitted this step too. It's not necessary.

Diego Posadas - Reply

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 7, and 11.

pauloau - Reply

Is all of these screws can be removed by phillips #00 screwdriver? I can't remove left 10.3 screw and bottom 3.1 screw. Another screws can be removed easily… My macbook pro is 13-inch, Late 2011. What can be wrong?

Ilya - Reply

Note the position of the little grounding rings when removing the red (10mm) screws. You'll have to make sure to re-seat them when reassembling!

James - Reply

I think you should remark when re-assembling the machine, you should pay attention to the metal clip in Step 9, the upper left screw position, it's easy to miss when assembling, because there are so many wires, and it may be very easy forgetting putting the metal clip back in place.

Mac - Reply

No idea how I'm supposed to put back the "grounding rings". Anybody?

Sarge Izzard - Reply

As far as the grounding ring goes, it slips back over the screw hole, be patient and gentle. You may have to finagle the airport board under it first and then lay the board flat and reattach the subwoofer. I will see if I can add a pic in the near future. But that the best way to describe it.

Robert Wacker - Reply

Another comment on step nine I have is about the subwoofer. In my case the screw hole that is for the "One 5 mm Phillips screw" (its currently circled in yellow) was broken [Mind you I have never dropped this computer so it came that way from apple. So be carful, it may be fragile and need some repair. Apple really needs to have better quality control on parts like this .(also they won't care that it was that way, they didn't like that I opened the computer, so even though its their fault, I should never have known and therefore they shouldn't be held responsible in their mind.) This may not void warranty as an over all upgrade, but any parts 'broken' or in my case 'found broken' during the fix are not covered any longer. So just be aware of this possible defect. Happy fixing.

Robert Wacker - Reply

No need to unscrew the 2 orange-marked 3,1mm screws - they just keep the two black plastic pieces together. In the contrary, unscrewing these makes the job more wobbly.

de757 - Reply

I removed all the screws in this step with the PH0

casse89 - Reply

i managed to strip two of the 3 #00 Phillips screws on this step, so im going to try and explain how i removed them.

i got a ratchet that is about 5" long, and a 1/4" socket that fit the bits in the 54 bit driver kit

there are all of the parts that you need in that kit to connect it to the ratchet

with this tool of torque i dropped down a size and use the #000 Phillips bit

i pressed good and hard, and watched the head. if it didnt turn i pressed harder

one screw was the worst and the #000 didnt work on it, just stripped it further

so i threw the j000 on the end and gave it a go

the shaper point on the j000 seemed to do the job

i was on the verge of JB Welding bits to them and trying that

but i didnt need to

allen - Reply

I did not removed the orange screws. I also successfully skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure.

pauloau - Reply

This step was also unnecessary. You can do the whole operation while leaving the subwoofer cable in place.

Steve - Reply

I removed it and after reassemble it looks like the speaker has no bass.

Rafael Carvalho - Reply

It also happened to me :( Did you solve it out?

Meenchul Kim -

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 7, and 8.

pauloau - Reply

The two screws at the left are stuck. Anyone having this problem or know how to remove them? I used a Phillips #00 as stated and it doesn't work.

maximejobidon - Reply

I had the same issue. I got to Step 14 with no problems and then stripped the bottom left screw head! I was able to get it out with the help of a rubber band. You lay a section of the rubber band across the stripped screw, place your screwdriver on the screw pinching the rubber band. Then place a decent amount of force to engage the screw as you turn. Worked like a charm for me! Also, if you bought the ifixit optical bay hard drive enclosure they included two of those screws in the bag of screws (at least they did in mine).

andrewsimpsonx -

I had to drill mine. I cannot for the life of me understand how those got to be so tight or so easily stripped. The is no reason for either. Both mine stripped like a hot knife through butter.

I had to drill mine out. Not that hard with even the crappiest of drill bits. One I had to drill completely out, although honestly I just got the head off and left it. The drive bay replacement I got only had a place for two screws anyways. The other came out as expected, one I got enough into the head I was able to reverse directions and it came out.

I also did this without removing the camera cable and other items, just moved things out of the way. I took one tiny pull on the camera cable and knew better than to bother. You should be able to easily manage the items out of the way without causing any damage. Also, if you can only get one screw in, just make it one of the left screws. The unibody setup and placement of other items make it so that no matter what the drive is secure no matter what.

scottmilliken -

I'm having the exact same issue here. Left two screws are in there really tight. I got the top one out with the rubber band trick, but no dice with the bottom one.

Zachary Tatom - Reply

Same Problem one of the screws wont come out. I think it is stripped . What should I do now ?

binualexander - Reply

I stripped mine as well. Anyone know where I can buy these screws for cheap?

wyatt jones - Reply

As complained, the left bottom one was also annoying me, stripped out. If it is moderately stripped, then the rubber band would be the best answer as guided by andrewsimpsonx. The screw is tiny and shallow, so all you need is just one very hard pressing the screw, pinching the rubber band.

By the way, I was doing this to lighten my laptop, but note that it is not that affecting :(.

Meenchul Kim - Reply

can i reuse this optical drive again

justcause3 - Reply

Sure you can. Use it in anything. Stick it in a USB enclosure and carry it.

scottmilliken -

As complained, I'm stuck at step 14, because of one loisy screw... I've tried the rubber band trick, but it does not work with my screw ( bottom left one). Now the screw is also completely stripped, because of the rubber band trick. Does anyone have any recommendations, how to get the screw out ?

Rocky De Wiest - Reply

Well, that was a crock. I managed to get all the way to the end, didnt have to remove my camera cable, and the two last screws stripped out easier than a hot knife through butter.

I tried the rubber band trick, nothing on either one. Guess it will go to the drill.

scottmilliken -

Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11 when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure) I found it specially difficult to put the top right screw back in place. It kept falling below the enclosure. I needed to remove the enclosure two times, before I was able to put it back.

pauloau - Reply

Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure, I found it easier to remove the enclosure by lift the side close to the battery and main HD and pulling it towards myself (towards main HD and battery).

pauloau - Reply

Does anyone have a problem that the cd/DVD won't fit in their SuperDrive once reinstalled? I am unable to fit a cd in, as well as eject any cd as well.

Jonathon Derr - Reply

The bay and dvd drive cable at iFixit is $40.00 (Unibody Laptop Dual Drive)

But for $10 more you can get an external casing that will protect your super drive form MCE (http://store.mcetech.com/Merchant2/merch...) A total of $50 dollars. It is what I used and works great and looks pretty and is guaranteed to protect your superdrive. MCE also gives you a disk with software to patch the DVD Player to work with external dvd drives. So For an extra $10 dollars you get better software functionality and a case for your super drive. It works great.

Robert Wacker - Reply

It is not a good idea to put fast SSDs into the optibay. System tries to negotiate at 6 Gbit, but it fails; disk is recognized but it couldn't even be formatted. I've waisted a lot of time to find a reason. After swapping SSD with original mac's HD both work properly, one at 6, another at 3 Gbit

nicholas - Reply

No problems here with a Samsung EVO in the optical bay. Only downside that is not really fast (80-90 mb/s) but amazing performances on booting time, shut off and opening programs.

Mike - Reply

I have to withdraw my comment. It is NOT a good idea to put a SATAIII SSD in the optical bay. It gives random freezes. Swapping it with a HD is indeed better. Better read/writes too. Only downside is that SMS won't work on the optical bay so treat your baby with care. Also Sleep issues might occur when placing a HD in the optical bay (a total freezing system). I already wasted a HD that was in the optical bay.

Mike - Reply

I've replaced the optibay with a samsung 840 pro but can't format it nor copy files (a few files work) to it. Do you suggest putting the HDD in the optibay instead? Did you clone the HDD to the SSD before swapping them? Will my Mac boot from the HDD the first time I boot even though it's in the optibay? I would really appreciate an answer, I've spent too many hours trying to figure it out!

Carl - Reply

Also had this same problem. Tried and failed a Samsung firmware upgrade. Ended up send drive back to Amazon.

Andrew -

Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!

Carl - Reply

Hello Carl. What have you done after switching places between the two drives? Can you explain it with more details please? I have the HDD in the hard drive place, and an SSD in the optibay, and I have a lot of freeze / beachball. Thanks.

danielsam55 -

I'm on a Macbook pro 13" Late 2011.

danielsam55 -

I have the startup set to the SSD in the optibay.

danielsam55 -

I've already done it. switch the hard drives and reboot, that's all. Working without beachballs XD

danielsam55 -

My understanding is that SSDs will work (at 6Gbps) in the optical bay of late-2011 13" MBP models but not in late-2011 15" or 17" models and not in earlier 13" models. Are those of you reporting problems installing on late-2011 13" models (MD313LL/A [2.4Ghz] or MD314LL/A [2.8 GHz])?

Steve - Reply

I'm experiencing the same issues with the HDDs in the optical bay. I've tried multiple drives (WD caviar blue 3G and a Seagate 6G) with no luck thus far. I replaced the SATA cable and that didn't help with either drive. My SSD still works fine in the main bay but I would like the extra storage.

For those of you who got the HDD in the optical bay working, which HDD (brand and model) did you use?

My MBP is a Late 2011 15" (8.2)

woestmab - Reply

My understanding is that SSD in the optibay for 2011 MBPs will only work on the late-2011 13" model (not the 15" or 17"). I can confirm that it works in my late-2011 13" MBP. I have a Samsung EVO 500GB in my optibay (HGST 1TB in the hard drive bay) with no problems at all: negotiated link speed of 6Gbits for both drives and not beach balls or other slowdowns.

Steve -

I'm not trying to put an SSD in the optical bay. As I said, I've tried multiple HDDs but none of them seem to work. I know that it's possible to put an HDD in the optical bay because I bought the computer with one in it but it seems that none are recognized. I have tried multiple brands and speeds with no luck. I would like to know which specific model of HDD works in the late 2011 15" optical bay.

Thanks

woestmab -

Many people have this problem and they all had the 2011 MBP model. The SATA controllers are both 6Gb/s on optic drive and HDD from 2012 (mid 2012 anyway). And of course we're talking about the non-retina. The last non-retina came out mid 2012.

maniajami - Reply

I just installed a Crucial M200 6 GB/s ssd in a 2012 15" Macbook Pro, working without issues. It seems the 2011 models are problematic.

Martin G - Reply

Make sure you have removed the 2 screws at the end of your super driver unit and move it to your NewHD bay with the metal piece eye loop.

Kamiiyu - Reply

Normally with the HD enclosure there come a set of screws. use these to screw down the HD in the enclosure since you need to flip it up side down to reinstall it into the MBP

Bart - Reply

Here they picture Crucial as their choice, you can also find some great options at Samsung (it is what I installed and it works just as good if not better than the crucial I installed in my wife's iMac. here is their site http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/solid...

Its just another great option. Also when installing SSDs make sure to enable TRIM support (crashes can and probably will occur if you don't) TRIM enabler is available free and the pro version is $10 http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenab... It is the easiest solution for this issue.

Robert Wacker - Reply

With the particular drive bay adaptor I used, these attachment screws were already fitted to the adaptor but were found at the sides, not underneath. Indeed, the adaptor had no screw holes on the underside.

jjsanderson - Reply

At first I couldn't get my machine to even turn on - thought it was the battery connector, but in the end I just had to reset the SMC. (http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964 - see "Resetting the SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own").

talksrealfast - Reply

I have the drive installed with this bay, but the drive does not appear in the Disk Utility. I see a 'Nvidia MCP79 AHCI' in the system information, but no drive listed with it. Is there some special driver needed to get the MCP to see the drive?

toddfletcher - Reply

Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.

claude - Reply

Mate,

My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10

I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.

My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.

I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.

So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.

I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.

Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8

You can't go back, apparently.

So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.

I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.

Rory -

it does not recognize the hard drive in the enclosure, what should i do?

elvin00 - Reply

simple question, how do I use the removed drive to play a DVD? Why don't I just use digital media...yadayada...I know. I'm currently in the hospital, did this drive swap for busy work. The littles want to watch an old DVD and I can't solve the issue.

gator6 - Reply

This will give you instructions on how to get your DVD player to work in an external enclosure: http://macenstein.com/default/2011/07/ho...

Steve -

I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.

roger hall - Reply

This is really for step 23: reassembly

You can not get the orginal screws back in to hold the new optical drive replacement in place because there is a black plastic filler running along the front edge of the part. There is no place for the screw head to go. I had to remove some of the plastic to get the machine reassembled. Whoever tested this overlooked what I think is a major problem. How many macbook pros are out there with only one (maybe two if you're lucky) screw holding this thing in place?

I got extra screws and have no idea why. The bits included in the kit are poor and don't work on most of the screws. I had to use my own tools instead.

eetech - Reply

Hi,

I'm using a 13' MBP mid 2010 and I just swapped my HDD for a SSD. Al works perfectly fine!

So i bought the unibody laptop dual drive (from iFixit) and replaced the optical drive for the original HDD from my MBP. The installation with this guide went perfectly, however, the HDD is not recognized in disk utility.

I put the old HDD back on the original HDD bay, the HDD boots and works. I placed back the optical drive in the optical bay, also works. But when i put the HDD in the unibody laptop dual drive (iFixit), it is not recognized via the USB-port(however, the HDD starts spinning) or when installed in the optical bay.

So i think there is a software issue where my MBP does not recognize a HDD in the optical bay. Is there a way to force the OS to look for storage/HDD via the optical bay STATA cable?

All help is welcome!

Thanks,

Leon

Leon - Reply

Leon: did you fix your issue? I'm facing the same problem.

Rafael Borges -

No, afraid not..

Leon -

also having the same problem, not recognizing second hdd

cmaizan -

Same here: installed original hdd in optical bay and it won't mount. Tried it using the sata cable on different computer, and the drive spins, but doesn't mount either. Would love to get a fix (or at least an explanation) for this. The whole point was to add extra storage, but so far, no dice.

flysi3000 -

Did you ever find a solution?

I installed mine, but the ssd I'm using was a bootable usb running Yosemite, and now that I plugged it in, I'm getting a circle with the slash through it when I try to boot to it, and I can't unmount it or reformat it from the recovery Disk Utility or in Mountain Lion on the stock hdd still inside.

drguttridge -

Hi!

I followed the tutorial and everything works fine when I use an HDD 320 go but when I use the new HDD I bought which is an Hitachi 1T 7200T 2.5 P I have some trouble. The disk utily takes a long time to recognize the new hard drive and then starts not responding.

I tought my new HDD might be broken but when I use it with an external portable HDD Enclosure it works fine...

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Julie

Julie Odeursa - Reply

I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).

First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.

Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.

I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.

But It was recognized by Disk Utility.

What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.

So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.

Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...

Wish you all luck :)

rybafly - Reply

Hi all,

I did this and all seemed to be working fine, both drives showed up and all was good then about 20 minutes later i got a message saying that "the drive had been ejected incorrectly" or something like that. The drives have now disappeared from finder and Disk Utility. I took the SSD out of the superdrive caddy and put it in an external USB3 caddy, it's working fine. I even left this connected over night (all OK). This morning i put the SSD back into my Late 2011 MacBook and the same thing happened, 20ish minutes and then the eject message... Have i missed something?

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Steven Vacher - Reply

Dear iFixit

I changed my Hdd with an ssd using this guide. My hdd is now in a caddy where the optical drive used to be.

I can see my original drive ( Toshiba 500GB ) in the disk utility-app, but i can't reach my data on it.

When i take it out of the caddy again and put it in a external Hdd case, i can read it perfectly fine.

So there is nothing wrong with the hdd or the connection.

Is this a problem i can fix with software?

Thx for the help!

Jonas Lesage - Reply