Hyundai Accent Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

Facing the front of the car, the underhood fuse box is located on the right hand side, between the battery and the fender.

Press the tab on the front of the fuse box.

And release the tab on the rear side of the fuse box.

You can remove the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay; either one will accomplish your purpose.

Fuel pump fuse

Fuel pump relay

In this example, we are pulling the fuse rather than the relay, but again, either will do the job.

Using the fuse puller found in the fuse box, remove the 15A fuel pump fuse and set it aside.

Put the key in the ignition and start the car. There will usually be enough residual pressure in the line to allow the car to start.

Depending how long it's been since the car was run last, there may be quite a bit of pressure in the lines, which can let the car run for as much as three minutes, so be patient and let the car idle until it dies on its own.

Turn the car off and remove the key.

Grasp the engine cover by the front edge.

Give it a firm yank upward.

Grab the rear edge of the cover.

Yank it upward.

The engine cover has been removed.

Press the locking tab on the fuel pressure regulator's electrical connector and unplug it.

There will almost certainly be a small amount of residual pressure in the line, so spread a shop rag under the intake and high pressure lines.

Disconnect the quick connect fitting.

Disconnect the line.

Using a 19 mm open end or tubing wrench, unscrew the high pressure fuel line from the high pressure fuel pump.

Use a 10 mm socket with a short extension to remove the bolts according to the instructions on the following pages.

Start with one of the bolts.

Turn it a half turn.

Move to the other bolt.

Turn it 1/2 turn.

Repeat the previous two steps until the tension on the bolts has been relieved. At that point you can remove them both.

The high pressure fuel pump can now be lifted off the valve cover.

This is easiest done with a magnetic pickup tool, but it can be removed using your finger inserted into the roller tappet and pull up on it.

Press the tab on the electrical connector and unplug the OCV.

Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt securing the OCV.

Grasp the OCV and with a twisting motion, pull the valve out of its housing.

The oil control valve has been removed.

We're starting with the #4 cylinder here, but it doesn't actually matter where you start.

Slide the gray locking clip away from the coil to unlock the connector.

With the locking tab released, grasp the connector and pull it straight off.

Moving along to cylinder #3, release the connector lock and unplug the coil.

Repeat for cylinder #2.

And, as you probably guessed, we finish up with cylinder #1.

Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bolt securing the #4 coil.

Repeat for cylinder #3.

Moving along to cylinder #2, rinse and repeat.

And we finish up back on cylinder #1.

Moving back to the #4 cylinder, grasp the coil and pull straight up to remove it.

Likewise for the #3 coil.

We pull the #2 coil.

And for our grand finale, we remove the coil from cylinder #1.

The ignition coils have been removed.

Use a pair of pliers to squeeze the hose clamp.

Move it down the hose so it is no longer over the nipple.

With a twisting motion, remove the hose and set it aside out of the way.

Using a 10 mm socket, remove the two bolts securing the wiring harness channel.

Remove the left hand bolt.

Remove the right hand bolt.

Fold the harness carrier away from the valve cover, out of the way.

Use a pair of pliers to squeeze the hose clamp.

Move it down the hose so it is no longer over the nipple.

With a twisting motion, remove the hose and set it aside out of the way.

Using a 10 mm socket, remove the 19 bolts securing the valve cover to the cylinder head and OCV mount.

It may be necessary to give the valve cover a tap with a rubber mallet, but generally you should be able to simply lift the valve cover off the cylinder head at this point.

Wipe down the oil control valve housing to ensure the gasket mounting surface is clean.

Here we're wiping down the timing cover surfaces.

Now we want to wipe down the cylinder head surfaces.

The outside edges are clean now.

And the spark plug tubes are also prepared.

Flip the valve cover over and remove the old gasket. You should have the outer perimeter gasket, circles around the spark plug tubes, and the oil control valve mount as seen in this picture.

Clean the channels where the gasket sits to ensure a proper seal.

Start with the oil control valve housing seal; press the rubber gasket into the channel.

Secure the spark plug hole gaskets into place.

Tabs are present at intervals around the edges of the valve cover; be sure to match them up for a proper fit.

Go around and seat the rest of the gasket.

Here we see the gasket fully installed.

Add a small amount of gasket sealant to the joint between the cylinder head and the timing cover on each side.

Set the valve cover in place back on the cylinder head.

Install the 19 bolts securing the valve cover and hand tighten them.

Follow the tightening sequence displayed here in two stages.

First tighten the fasteners in the order shown to 35 ~ 52 lb-in (2.9 ~ 4.3 lb-ft).

Second pass, torque the bolts to 70 ~ 86 lb-in (5.8 ~ 7.2 lb-ft).